Oldsmobile - 88 :: 1999 - Cuts Out Momentarily / No MIL
Aug 9, 2015
I've never had a car act like this before. It cuts out for a tenth of a second, and then comes right back. I drove it 20 miles yesterday. It seemed to do it more before the engine reached operating temperature, like once every quarter mile. Once on the interstate, it went down to once a mile, then once in three miles, but it never completely quit doing it. I tried jiggling the keys in the switch. It made no difference. It did not make a difference whether or not I was going up or down hill or on level ground. I had the cruise set for 65, and it held that speed well. I'd think if it were a fuel filter or pump issue it would sputter constantly. This is just a sudden hiccup, then right back to running perfectly.
3.8 L V-6, 126K miles.
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I have a 99 F-250SD with 5.4 automatic that just all of a sudden started running unevenly at random times, but frequently. There is a pending code P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire. I have had the truck for 12 years and it has run perfectly for the last 10+ years and just started this problem, it did not come on slowly but all of a sudden. I have seen on here that some people say that 90% of the time a PO300 is a bad cop. I replaced the plugs 60k miles ago when I had a bad coil on plug 10 years ago that did not set any codes, but this seems very different that more than one cylinder seems affected, like maybe 2 or more cylinders are not firing momentarily.
There is a big power loss momentarily while it happens, but doesn't happen for long. The fuel pressure stays pretty constant (30 psi at rail) even while it happens, and it can affect the idle as well as while accelerating or cruising at speed. I cant imagine more than one coil on plug would be skipping at the same times or fail at the exact same time, but maybe having only one bad cop could cause this much hesitation? Does the code that indicates random/multiple cylinder misfire rule out only one bad cop? It just seems like running on 7 cylinders wouldn't be so noticeable. Could a sticking egr valve cause unevenness at idle and higher rpms and set a P0300 code? Would checking manifold vacuum be they way to see if egr valve is not working correctly.
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2015 F-350 diesel purchased in Sept 2014. When moving slowly such as turning a corner and I have to let up on the accelerator momentarily, when I press down again there is nothing for an unsettling period of time, maybe 2 seconds, as though the engine died, but it didn't and it always comes back. Is there a firmware programming update for this?
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My 2014 Super Duty, the accessory delay relay is starting to acted up. When driving my instrument cluster and heater/AC will cut-out momentarily once in awhile. I guess Ford has known about this problem for years and hasn't done anything to fix this known problem in their Super Duties. My truck is almost out of warranty and I guess to fix the accessory delay relay is to replace the whole instrument cluster with a new one with the same defective part. Of course, the accessory delay relay will never acted up a the dealership because it's totally random. Plus, I don't trust the incompetent people who work at my local dealership to do a good job on tearing out my trucks interior and to get it back together like factory. I'm at a loss.
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Intermittent loss of power (could be describe momentarily stuttering) with momentary illumination of the check engine soon light. Its only happened a couple of times. Maybe about a year ago (I changed the fuel filter after it occurred). It occurred again about a month ago and then again yesterday. About a month ago I had a friend with a scanner look at the codes and he said there was only one and it was for low fuel pressure. Its been maybe 5k since I changed the fuel filter.
The truck is driven intermittently, maybe 5k or 6k a year, and usually parked with a full tank of fuel. What areas I should look at to correct this? I got my stock 2001 F350 4x4 manual transmission in 2004 with about 157k miles. Today I've got about 228k miles.
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99 olds cutlass, this morning I drove it and the coolant low light came on. Stopped at autozone, grabbed some coolant and tossed some in. Kept driving, light was intermittently on and off. Drove it to work and around noon filled it pretty full with coolant. Drove away at 5pm, no puddle underneath the car. Stopped to get gas, didn't notice any puddle but didn't look closely. Drove it home, parked it, went to get the mail, came back, pretty impressive puddle of coolant leaking from under the car.
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99 Intrigue 3.5 with 200,000 miles has severe front end vibration on initial aggresive start from a stop. Worse when wheels are turned. Doesn't matter if turned to right or left. Drives fine on highway, no problem for straight line or easy acceleration from stop. CV joints original, boots good, car has been trouble free.....
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My bmw started fine.then as i was driving it cut out. it took 5 minutes to get it started.now it fires up for 30 seconds or so then cuts out.
today it wouldnt start at all and i cant hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the ignition on ... 1991 bmw 320sei ....
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99 Bravada 4.3L. Key rotates to start but the starter does not turn. I can remove the starter relay and jump it and it starts right up, swapped relay with another one and same thing. Car has an aftermarket remote starter that does NOT cut any wires, only ties into them. The remote starter is seeing the starter voltage from the key, but no signal is making it to the relay under the hood. The relay has 12v+, a ground, the starter post, and the post from the key, nothing happens with a test light with the other end grounded or connected to 12v+.
Second problem happened at the same time, maybe related. The floor shifter will not move when I step on the brake with the key 'on or off'. I removed the boot and move the little white lever and it will shift, but not like it should. All fuses are good both under the hood and inside and it.
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1999 Olds Cutlass, 140k miles. When going over uneven pavement, up inclines or over bumps, the car makes a creaking sound, like a cross between stepping on an old floorboard and basketball sneakers scuffing the court. It sounds and (feels?) like its coming from the back end, but I do know the front left wheel bearing needs replacement. I recently had a right front caliper replaced after a friend blew out the tire and crunched the rim on a bad pothole. It went a good 20 miles, give or take, on a donut in between repairs.
I know this is not good for the alignment of the car. Trust me, I did not approve this usage. Along with the creaking is a sound similar to bottoming out, although it happens when going over bumps, and I know for a fact nothing is truly bottoming out. It's going into the mechanics as soon as I get to a vacation day from work, in the meantime, is it an issue that needs to be fixed before a drive another mile, or can it wait a few days? My average usage of the car is about 20 miles/day. What it might be? I have a hard time changing my own oil, but my research suggests maybe tire rods, ball joints, arm bushings? Or even worse, gulp struts?
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I have a 99 TL. The car generally runs well, but at times,the engine just cuts out. I can be traveling 55 mph and the engine will just stall. Usually it starts right up. I can also be running well, and when it idles it will stall. Otherwise, at times, it starts with no problem. Other times it will turn over, but not start until many tries. I have replaced most of the sensors. No check engine lights comes on, so there is no way to accurately diagnose the problem.
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1999 Oldsmobile Alero V6 3.4L. Car checked out for a strange noise in my front left tire area, and I don't remember all the technical things they said (I'm definitely not a car guy), but I do remember them saying that my front subframe had rusted out and that I need to get another one ASAP, and that it's dangerous to drive my car at the moment. They said they could get another one for me.
So I've checked around on the Internet, and I found this site: [URL] ....
Is this the right part that I need? Also, is there a list of vehicles that have parts that are compatible with my vehicle? I think certain years of the Pontiac Grand Am and Chevy Malibu are also compatible, so could I possibly search for a Front Subframe from these types of cars as well?
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1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 in line 6 Cyl misfires when driving. I bought this about 2 months ago (200,000 miles), and when i first got it it was acting like it was misfiring when driving above 60 mph( did get codes P0301 cyl 1 misfire, and P1391 CPS) . it started to act the same way just driving in my small town. so i ended up changing the ignition coil pack and changing spark plugs, i also replaced the CPS (camshaft position sensor). and was still acting the same way. I located a TSB that said there might be a carbon build up problem preventing valves from rotating and seating.
So I used seafoam and clean up the Top, and drove it in low gear at 4500 rpm for 15 seconds or so 6 times.. initially when doing this it was cutting out (jerking) when rpms got up there. after doing this twice with about 3 weeks in between never had a problem in town with it acting up running like it should from what i can tell..
Then i took a road trip, and a 60 mph was fine, 70 mph it was fine.. so i thought it fixed the issue and all good.. but about an hour into the drive it started acting up again.. unexpectedly cutting out for a second here and there, and usually when going up hill, and when got to destination about another 40 minutes, coming to a stop light i noticed it when stopping it was running pretty rough like it wanted to die out but never actually did. never got any more check engine lights either. I'm kinda at a loss at what the issue might be, and what i need to do to fix it as i really like the vehicle
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MT 2500 Where are you I've got a weird one. 99 Chevy 5.7 dully dump truck. The engine cuts out while driving at 3000rpms only. If you keep your foot in it it goes away at 3200. Does it in any gear(auto). Also, stopped and in park, it will do it at 4000rpms. Acts like a rev limiter. Fuel pressure does not change (60-62psi) when this happens, does it in open or closed loop. I disconnected the maf and no change. I've installed new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, module(all original with 165K), no change. Runs sensational until 3K rpms.
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I have a 99 ford e350 5.4 gas engine - When driving 35 to 40 engine cuts in & out loss of power. Engine light not on? at idle runs ok.
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MKIV 1.8T. Basically the engine turns itself off for 2-5 seconds while driving (quite dangerous!!), then immediately starts back up. For that 2-5 seconds the car is coasting and slowing down. Gas pedal does nothing, but the once the engine comes back on it was as if nothing happened. No CELs or anything else to indicate something is wrong.
The problem appears to happen like most others, with gas 1/4 tank or less (sometime 1/3 tank or less), cruising between 60-75 mph. I've already replaced all spark plugs, new plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, and the Crank Position sensor. I haven't yet changed or cleaned the fuel pump, gas tank or MAF ...
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My wife's 2003 GLX (V6) atx fwd wagon has almost endless CEL issues. On one occasion it momentarily went into the blinking mode, which did not recur after shutting the car off and restarting. Problems have been all over the map, or so says the dealer (Martens VW in Washington DC), e.g. crankcase ventilation, temp sensor and so on. Car has always run fine but every time we take it into get the CEL fixed, it comes back in about 2 days. BTW, I just bought an extended warranty (before the mfg version expired).
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty and an old problem has reoccurred , I start the truck and as I put on the windscreen wipers the truck cuts out?
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This has happened 3 or 4 times now while driving down the road. Just cruising down the road the CC will just cut out. I'll hit the "set accel" button on the wheel and all is good again until it randomly decides to do it again.
The only thing I've changed recently is the rear end speed sensor to cure the ABS light. I wouldn't/didn't think this would have any effect on the cruise control, but IDK, maybe I'll put the original one back in and test it.
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I have a 1999 f150. Its having a fuel problem i was driving and my truck just cut out on me. I have diag it as the fuel pump cause when I turn the key, I have no response from my pump.
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The engine in my truck sometimes cuts out seems to be at idle. Takes a lot of cranking together going. Might be related but the electric fuel pump seems to run every time I turn the key on and if i sit with key off and the engine not going. I hear the pump come on again. No external leaks can be seen.
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