Oldsmobile - 88 :: 1998 - No Turnover At Start
Dec 11, 2011
Car started fine yesterday. Went down to about 20 last night. New battery last summer. New starter April of 2010.
Car clicked once this morning and no turnover at start. Accessories worked OK. Battery checked OK. Cleaned the battery terminals even though they looked fine. Charged for 15 minutes. Still clicked once and no turnover. Jiggled the neg lines that run to the front fender and charged 15 more mins. Started. Went ahead and disassembled that terminal and cleaned the oxidation off the four wire terminals connected there. Is it possible to get one click and no turnover when those negative lines to the fender are not making good contact? Or, is it most likely something else?
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What would cause my truck to have a long turnover start, a really rough idle, and a loss of power after idling at a stop light for about a minute?
This problem gets worse as the truck warms up. It feels as if I'm not getting power from all 6 cylinders but this goes away after about 20 feet of acceleration. The truck has never not started. It just has to turn over for about 5 to 10 seconds before it fires up. I changed the spark plugs and wires thinking it was that and then i tried the fuel filter and it wasn't that either.
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I've bought a low mileage (70k) 1998 Olds 88 from my mother. Lately it's begun going dead when the key is turned; Trip meter zeros out, clock resets, no starting. You open and slam the door a few times, and suddenly it starts like normal. Obviously electrical, obviously intermittent. Where I should look?
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This question concerns starting our 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan with 170K. The problem started about a week ago. When turning the key to start the engine, nothing would happen. No click, no noise, no engine turnover. By turning the key to off and then back on several times, the starter would kick in normally. The starter has never been replaced and I don't recall any electrical work ever being done on the car. I take it to our mechanic about every 2 years for a tune up and replacement of belts and hoses as needed.I have a friend that is a good shade tree mechanic and he is willing to replace the starter.My question is: Is the problem most likely a bad starter and if so, is replacement by my friend a reasonably easy task.
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Okay so the other day my ranger wouldn't start after i got off work, it would turnover only occasionally but now it wont even do that. I've tried the fule turn on/off switch underneath the passenger glove box. I unscrewed the fuel like valve cap and pressed the pin but the fuel like barely squirted out so does it mean my fuel pump is bad or what??
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I've been commuting roughly 100 miles round trip daily for work for the past month or so and other than the need for an oil change (I'm at about 6,000 since the last one, current mileage is 171900), my 98 Bravada has been fine. However, this evening when I was about half-way home, I noticed the car was getting a little resistance on accelerating.
I had wondered if it was the wind and rain I was driving through, but the tachometer was jumping regularly, it was in the lower ranges (between 1-2, maybe a jump to 3). I was still able to maintain speed (up to 60mph, and a struggle to get to 65 - somewhat unusual) - however there was noticeable resistance to acceleration. Once I got home I noticed that the temp gauge was showing less than 150 and the oil was fluctuating between 1/4 and 1/2.
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Car 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Engine 3.8 series II 160,000 KM
Problem : The Steering wheel won't move, I can start and drive the car forward/reverse but the wheel won't move right or left?? I was planning on scrapping the car in spring 2015 but need to move the car and don't have a clue on fixing this issue.
The key cylinder is located in the dash and I don't have any passlock II codes errors when trying to start the car, My power steering pump doesn't squeal or is locked (not Burning belts) but the pump is empty. I was thinking a seized rack & pinion but have never heard of that,I should still have manual steering I'm guessing still.
[URL] ......
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My wife's 1998 oldsmobile intrigue. i have replaced the starter with a rebuild from advance auto parts, had the alternator rebuilt and installed a new battery. the car runs until the battery dies and then it will shut down while driving. it can be jumped and started but will die again when the battery drains.
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I recently bought an '98 Oldsmobile Intrigue, I do not know much of anything more than how to check fluids and were to put them when low, So here's the issues that I have come across.
Roughish idle. when stopped and in drive it has a rough idle but not bad yet.
Driver Side windows do not go up or down. The driver window is stuck with a 1/4 inch gap I keep weather proof tape over it. the back window slides up and down but not with the button also held up by tape. I can hear the motor running when I press the button but no luck.
A/C motor works but no air blows out of the vents.
Driver side back up lights don't work and Driver side front blinker or parking light does not work.
Security light recently come on and can't get it to go off whenever the car is started and it is a steady light no flash or blink.
I already know there is a small leak in the radiator and even with the issues it has I love the lil car and want to fix it up to proper working order. So, what I can possibly do?
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3 mechanics can't find what is wrong but when I come to a stop sign or light my car stalls, not every time but a lot. Also, seems to happen more in cold or wet weather. So every time I stop and idle I have to quick put it into park.
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My Regency will randomly not start. No turn-over, interior lights nice and bright, all lights on dashboard come up. No security light shows up on dashboard thus does not appear to be security system.
Seems to occur more often when car is driven a short distance. Twice I have made short drives come back several hours later car does not start. I wait 7-10 minutes then try again and car starts right up.
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I have a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora with 103,000 miles. I'm receiving the codes P0300B Misfire and P0440B Evap Emission.
I use Premium Unleaded gas (not at a cheap station) so I don't think it's the gas causing the misfire code P0300B. Also I've put on a new gas cap but I still get the Evap Emission code P0440B.
Working on a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora with these 2 codes?
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My 88 "Rosie" has been having problems for months. It hesitates, stalls, and sometimes backfires. This is an intermittent problem, though it is happening more often lately. I took it to local auto shop and their computer showed Rosie was throwing a misfire code as well as a lean code. I took it 3 months ago, and I took it last week, got the same codes. The lean code led me to check the fuel pressure. I did and while it should be healthy 48-55 psi, I got 48 for awhile then 15 PSI! Now I'm thinking fuel delivery. I started with the filter. Sure enough it was dirty. Weeks later, the problem persists. I replaced the fuel regulator (ok, mostly because it was cheaper than the replacing the fuel pump, which I really didn't want to have to do.) Still, no luck, so I finally caved and spent $200 and 12 hrs dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump. Guess, what? Still no dice. I'm still getting the hesitation and the misfiring. I haven't put the fuel pressure tester back on it (been busy) so I don't know if the pressure is still low or if these other things are even related. I thought my logic was infallible. Let's face it, there's a finite number of parts that control fuel pressure. I'm running out of parts to replace. Where did I go wrong? The only thing I can think of that could still do it is perhaps the fuel pump relay? I dunno. Would it work off and on or fail completely? I'd love to get some opinions on this.
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Was running with a slight miss until reach 30 mph for about 5 days now this morning, turning over and over but won't start..checked 2 plug wires no spark to ground..how to fix and make start?
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On my 2001 B5.5 V6 4motion, the recall includes the fuel tank vent valve. Sometimes it will give a hard time...it wants to crank, but just won't turn over and it may take a few times like that before it will actually turn over and start the car...and occasionally it will turn over but only has very low RPMs and you have to turn it off. Also, we have been getting the misfire in cylinder 4 code. I have a new fuel filter to put on, but i don't think that is part of the prob.
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Recently purchased this 1996 Achieva. Had trouble starting it from the "get go". Had to turn the key and if the lights came on it would start when one turned the key further. If the lights (dash lights) didn't come on one would have to turn the car all the way off and try again. This process was getting longer and longer until it would not start at all. Mechanic says the computer is telling it that it is stolen. Also, it has a Pontiac steering column.
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I got up on a rainy monday morning to go to work put the key into the ignition and no turnover occurred. Not even a click. Looked like the car had plenty of juice though. Right now my poor car is just sittin' in the driveway. 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6
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Three times in the past 2 weeks my Santa Fe wouldn't start. Never first thing in the morning but after the car is warmed up. I have stopped for gas/run into a store for 10 minutes. When I get back and turn the key I get electrical power (radio and fan etc.) but no cranking or engine turnover. It happened on a rainy day and twice when it was very hot and humid so maybe the electronic components are faulty.
After 10 or 15 minutes the car will start as if nothing is wrong and then I'll go for several days without any problem. I've tried both keys and I tried moving the second key around the steering wheel - in case the engine immobilizer is having trouble reading the key.
I have had the car since April 2, 2007 and I put only 3500 kms on it. It's a GLS 3.3L 7 passenger. I've read that it could be the crank position sensor.
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My car is 6 cylinder 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue. It won't start after a short time of being off. It has to be more than 2 hours off before it starts up. What is wrong?
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I have a 2002 Alero with 124,000 miles and it's been giving me problems lately. Sometimes while I'm driving my car just shuts off. Radio still on and lights work, but the car just stops running. There are days where I can start my car with no problems and there are days where my vehicle doesn't start at all for days/weeks. I've taken my car to two different shops and they didn't find anything wrong with it but as soon as I got it back it started doing the same thing again. What is wrong with this car or what I need to do?
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I have a 1967 Cutlass. She ran great yesterday. Today she won't start. I have spark coming out of the coil but no spark going to the plugs. Plugs and plug wires test good as well.
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