Nissan - Xterra :: 2005 - Code P1757 / When Change From Park To Drive It Goes Out Of Gear And Go Into Limp Mode
Feb 25, 2015
Nissan XTerra 2005 transmission RE5R05A. Trouble code is p1757 When I go from park to drive it goes out of gear and puts my car in limp mode. I took it to the dealer and they told me that I have to replace a transmission another place told that it could be brake solenoid or oil filter. In third place they told me it could be the TCM problems.
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I have 1 month left on my AAMCO rebuilt transmission. I took it in a few weeks ago when it went into "limp mode" (Stuck in 1st gear). Eventually, they got an error code of P0730, which I believe is electrical-related. All was pretty good but then today, driving @ high speed on the interstate, I could not get into 4th gear...
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I have a 2002 Nissan Xterra with 250k miles on it and it runs like its was just off the factory floor, or at least it did. Today I got in my car and started it up normally and put it in drive to leave, but when I took my foot off the break it started to roll backwards on flat ground. I immediately put my foot on the break and looked to see if I might of put it in reverse by accident, but it was in drive. I took my foot off the break to see if it would do it again, but it didn't. However the whole drive it didn't respond the way it used to, it was more sluggish, but only slightly. And now it whistles in relation to the throttle that I never had before.
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I can get my car to rev past 4,000 rpm in gears 1-4 but in 5th gear it wont pass 3,000. It used to be fine, but one day it was just like this and hasn't changed since. This is annoying because where I live some of the speed limits are at 75mph. When I'm in 5th gear at 3,000 rpm I'm only going 65. What can I do to fix this? Reset ECU? Clean MAF sensor? Is it related to an approaching timing belt failure (I'm at 94k miles and it needs to be replaced before 105k)...
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A few months ago, my '00 Sentra developed a rough idle but I ignored it because it wasn't too bad, until recently at least. It had been getting progressively worse so I went out and bought some CRC MAF cleaner, which solved the rough idle altogether for about a day. After doing some errands, I started the car but it was now stuck in limp home mode, not matter how much gas I gave it, she wouldn't top 20 MPH and 2.5k revs.
I bought a new MAF, and that made the problem worse: in any drive gears or reverse, when given any gas, the engine would stall and die but when in neutral, I can rev it as high as I want to. I reset the computer and cleaned the new sensor to no avail. After re-installing the old sensor (which was visibly broken, it was missing an entire wire assembly), it will run poorly but will now drive with some quirks, and I don't trust it further than around the block.
My question is: with the new sensor, do I need an ECU reprogram, did I receive a bad sensor, or is there a compound problem? (I've heard with similar issues: bad alternator, bad TPS, bad IAC module, dirty IAC or TPS, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, dirty air filter, among others.)
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I have a 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5 and a while back I had to replace a drive shaft. After replacing it my car goes into limp mode and I get a different random code every time. The car seems to run fine when it is cold but after it warms up it will go into limp mode randomly. If I cost to a stop and shut down the car and wait a while to restart it runs fine. I've tried and researched just about everything thing.
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I was once the proud owner of a 2006 Prius with 106,716 miles on it. Never missed a regularly scheduled service. Now, I am no longer proud, but just another owner of a Prius with a failed transaxle.
Last week, I parked my car on my way to work and, while the car was idling in park, the Triangle of Death (red with exlamation mark within) came up on the dashboard. The car went into limp mode -- it was unable to shift into drive or reverse -- so I had it towed to Darcars in Silver Spring, MD. They thought the original 12v battery was dead, so they replaced it.
P0AA6 -- 526 and 613 codes 600 miles after Transaxle Fluid Replacement...
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Wife's Passat went into "limp mode" and will only give me 4th gear. Check engine light came on when it happened. I had a buddy scan the car with OBD scanner and it is saying Sensor A is bad? Which sensor this is, or thought of writing down the code that it was throwing. My guess is the speed sensor for the transmission.
Luckily the car is a W8 and has enough power to pull the car from stop in 4th gear. There aren't any reputable VW dealerships in my town or any neighboring town. I've decided to take the car to a VW/Audi specialist some 60 miles away. They told me they can take a look and replace if needed. I absolutely do not trust VW dealerships/service around here. I've heard nothing but nightmare stories about them.
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My 2010 Malibu has been throwing a code 0f 2135 also goes into limp mode. Code comes up as throttle pos sen. So looking I can see it is all built in one with the throttle body. Can it be changed with out any special tools?
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I have a 2004 1.8T AWM auto tranny Passat with APR chip. CIA, Bolt down Coil Packs, Bosch F6DTC plugs, OEM cat to straight pipe to magnaflow muffler, N75J, Forge DV (not the 007).
I installed a MBC bypassing the N75 to keep the spike at 16psi and hold (the n75J i spike at 22psi and hold 12~14), When I did that, the car will go in limp mode from 'over boosting'. I have to turn the MBC down to 9 to keep the car limping out. I love the way the MBC have the boost curve (the N75 is too passive for me). would like to fix this issue.
Also, with the N75 and or MBC, while in the APR 93 oct chip mode, I always get surging in 4th and 5th gear. Any time the boost is over 10psi, it is like I have tons of boost, but the engine is not using it. APR said it is the tranny, the tranny shop said it is the engine or computer, the engine shop said it is the tuning.
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Got a 2006 GX throwing a P2445 code and car goes into limp mode. Is this the Air Injection Pump? Where it's located?
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I've a 2006 sonata 3.3 with 100k miles on it and recently it started going to limp mode leaving me in 3rd gear only after scanning it I've found code p0743 (TCC selonoid open/short circuit) what to check from here or can share any wiring diagrams for this particular circuit I'm not sure where to start. where is the wiring harness for that is located ? is it in the oil pan ? and if I wanted to pull the selonoid itself to check would it be something I can do myself ?
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So yesterday, this had happened for the third time in 3 years owning this car. Unhooking the battery for 20-30 minutes resets the computer and it is ready to go for a while with no issues. This has become annoying though. What is causing the car to enter "limp" mode and stay in third gear? One time it happened, I brought it to AutoZone and they did a scan and came up with the speed sensor. I haven't replaced it because it didn't happen for a while after that.
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About a week ago my 2002 santa fe suddenly lacked performance and the check engine light came on . At the same time I noticed the speedometer stopped registering. I later discovered the poor performance was due to the fact that the vehicle was in 3rd gear "limp" mode. The code generated is 1602 "failure to communicate between the ecu and transmission control module". At this point I hoping its just a faulty speed sensor that's causing the problem and not the transmission control module.
Does it indeed sound like a bad speed sensor or does it sound like a faulty TCM or could it be a break in the wires between the ECU and TCM? Also, is it safe to drive the vehicle in limp mode until i replace the part later this week?
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I have a Korean spec 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2L R-eVGT 6AT 4WD. Around a year ago it started to go into limp mode i had it checked and the error code was p0488 (EGR) Throttle Control Circuit A Range / Performance.
It has gradually become more frequent to the extent it goes into limp mode within a a minute or so . so far the dealer has changed the EGR valve, TCM , the whole turbo assembly and it is no different. They have also stripped and cleaned the intake manifold and egr cooler.
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Should we go to a transmission specialist or a regular shop for our issue? 2006 Kia Sedona - won't shift into reverse suddenly and is in "limp" mode, only staying in 3rd gear.
My concerns are primarily getting it done correctly and as cheaply as possible. I've read that the issue could be an input or output solenoid or maybe having to get a full on re manufactured transmission instead. But the consensus appears to be having it properly diagnosed.
So my question is, will the local shop around the corner who is pretty good with most repairs be able to properly deal with this? Or am I better off skipping them and going to the specialist?
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2008 sonata 3.3, no reverse however the dash indicates it's in reverse. Code P0733. I understand how an unrelated problem can cause another and wonder if I can eliminated possible problems. Car is in limp mode and stays in second or third gear.
I am about to disconnect, clean and wiggle the connectors for the transmission inner and outer sensors and then find out if I can test the sensors. That is, after I find them.
I'm also on the hunt for anything the TPS sensor might have to do with it. Battery disconnect does not work, even after hours. Is there any way something unrelated like the brake light switch or the inhibitor switch (whatever that is), might be the cause? Valve body?
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My wife started up my 2005 GX470 this morning to go to work and drove maybe a half mile before she noticed a problem. So she turned around and drove it back home in limp mode. She put it in park and got out.
Most of the Warning Lights are on ( VSC OFF, VSC TRAC, Anti Skid, Check Engine etc). I tried moving the shift lever but there was some resistance and some grinding noises. And it now seems to be stuck in neutral.
How to diagnose this myself? We only drive this vehicle in the winter, and it was fine the last time we used it.
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I have been battling a big boost upon acceleration at stoplights for approximately 6 months. Now twice I have gone into limp mode and the tech reads: PO700 (Transmission) and PO731 (Gear 1). I just turned over 190,000 miles but only purchased it a year ago. What is the problem(s)?
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I have a 2005 Prius. After driving home from a 95K routine maintenance inspection, the car (with the display indicating 50% in the gas tank) went to limp mode and then stopped entirely and had to be towed back to the dealer. The codes pulled were
P0A0F (Engine failed to start)
P3000 (Battery control system)
B2799 (Immobilizer Malfunction)
P3190 (Poor engine power).
The techs concluded that the car was simply out of gas and the display incorrectly showed I still had gas in the tank due to a broken sender in the tank. They also said they added 1 1/2 gallons, and the car ran fine again.
However, I keep meticulous records of when I get gas, and according to my numbers I had at least 5 gallons left in the tank. Sure enough, the tech topped the tank up, which only took 4 gallons, so clearly my tank was not empty when this happened.
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I'm going to do a weld-in-plug delete in my RV in the next couple weeks, and its a crapshoot apparently if it'll throw a code. My immediate concern is I want to go on a trip right after, and I won't have time to fiddle about getting an SCT tuner to turn the code off. What I definitely don't want is a code for EGR flow restriction to eventually cause my motor to go into some kind of limp mode while I'm in the middle of a long drive. Is this possible?
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