Nissan - Xterra :: 2004 - Parking Brake Light Came On
Feb 9, 2013
I drive a 2004 Nissan Xterra. About 3 weeks ago I started out to run some errands and as I was pulling out of the parking lot the brake light came on. I pulled over and depressed/released the parking brake a couple of times and it stayed on. I proceeded to run my errands and after about 10 - 15 minutes the light went out. The brakes seemed to be working normally the whole time I was driving. When I got home I checked the brake fluid level and it was about halfway between min and max.
Since then the light has come on three more times. Each time the outside temperature is below 15F. It does not come on when the temp is higher. After driving for a short time the light always goes off.
Could there be freezing in the brake lines? Should I have the brake fluid flushed and replaced? I've searched my recommended maintenance schedule and this doesn't appear anywhere in it. The recommended brake fluid for my vehicle is DOT3.
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8 months ago i had a blown head gasket and went with a total new engine replacement. I did not use my usual mechanic but another repair shop that had a good reputation due to the price of a the new engine. My car ran well for about 2 months then i started to notice 2 issues. 1) when i applied the brakes hard the car stalled on me and 2) when i put the car in drive there was about a second hesitation before the car would drive. The hesitation (slipping) only does it when the car is in drive gear (auto transmission) and after a few moments of the car runs well even when i park it and restart it the rest of the day.
It only hesitates that way the first time i drive it for the day or if it has been parked for around 4 hours or more. The stalling when i press the brakes hard is constant. I took the car back to the repair shop and they told me my 6 month warranty did not cover that issue cause it was not a engine problem; they said they can look at the car but to even look at it was another $150. I think they are wrong and trying to get more $ out of me so I declined and now my 6 month warranty is expired and i still have the issue. When the car is in idle the rpms are very normal and when driving the rpms are normal. What it could be?
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When I turn on the A/C and am moving the temperature of the car is fine. It's only when I have the A/C on and am idling or moving very slowly that the car starts to overheat. It does not overheat at all, moving or at idle/slow, when the A/C is not on at all. Ok the truth is is that its bloody well hot here in New England and I sweat a gallon of water at every stop sign and stop light!
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I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra that has been chugging for a few months now. The problem is intermittent and only happens about once or twice a week when driving, but when it starts to chug (feels like it is running out of gas, jerky, will not accelerate) it is unsafe to drive on the freeway. I have taken it to several places and no one can figure out the problem. It was pulling two codes the speed sensor on the transmission PO500 - and the knock sensor code was coming up along with that. I had the speed sensor replaced twice and checked the wiring. We replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pump with a fuel gage and fuel lines, replaced the distributor cap and rotor, put in a new MAF sensor and still nothing is working to remedy the chugging. My last stop is replacing the knock sensor for $600, the problem is that the Nissan Mechanics (I visited two dealerships in different cities) told me not to replace this as it would not cause chugging. Several other mechanics around town tell me that they are wrong and I do need to replace it.
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I have a 2006 Prius that I've had since 2012. The parking brake light was intermittently having a hard time turning off every time I disengaged the brake and became more inconsistent until finally, now, for about 6 months the light has just remained on the entire time, regardless of whether or not the brake was engaged.
Just to clarify the brake is still fully functional and will prevent the car from rolling when engaged.
I recently failed my inspection because of the light. The mechanics of the brake are fine, but the light wont turn off. They quoted me around $1,000 to fix due to them having to rip out the whole dash to get to the parking brake assembly (8 hours of labor).
However, is there any way to access the pedal to do the repairs without having to take the interior of the car apart? I've also heard that it could mean my brake fluid is low? But they didn't mention that during the inspection.
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Today I took my 2006 Toyota Prius with 167,000 miles out to drive my dog to the vet. I turned the car on and deactivated the parking break and noticed the light stayed on, then I noticed the VSC and ABS lights stayed on as well.
My car was parked backwards on a driveway incline for about 14 hours. My 12v battery is old, not sure what shape it is in. The hybrid battery was replaced 2 years ago. I have been reading up and i guess it could be a sensor, skid sensor, 12v battery, or some sort of pump. Also, my parking break has felt a little weak as of late.
The car still drives, not sure if it drives funny or psychologically I think it does.
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So here is my issue, my parking brake light stays on. Ive checked my parking brake pads, the cables and the switch. They are all servicable and operational yet the light stays on...
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I recently purchased an 07 f150 lariat leveled 4x4. I noticed the other day that all at once, the abs light and parking brake light came onto the dash, 4x4 low doesn't work and just stays in high and the ac doesn't blow cold. I'm assuming this is somewhat connected considering this all happened at once but really just not sure.
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The switch for the parking brake pedal light self loosened (a known issue with this switch) over the past six months and today it finally fell off the pedal assembly. The only way I can see to do the repair is to remove the three fasteners that attach the parking brake pedal assembly to the dash and drop the pedal to the floor to refasten the switch. It appears to be possible; however, there are lots of stuff around the assembly that might get in the way of dropping the assembly so I raised the white flag and called it a day.
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Why the parking brake light in my dash stays on, 2004 F150. Fluid in master cylinder is full, has no signs of leaks anywhere.
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Intermittently, the parking brake/ABS light comes on with no pattern I can put my finger on. Some times its on when I start it and stays on the entire time I drive it. Some times its off when I start it and then comes on while I'm driving it. This morning I took it by Advance auto and had them check for codes while the light was on: C1342 - ABS control module. I can't find a lot of information about this code or what can be done to fix it other than taking it to a dealer. Any alternative solution, perhaps re-seating the connectors to the module - and where the heck is the module and what does it look like?
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The parking brake audible warning is going off along with the parking brake light. I tried disengaging the brake multiple times and it went off once, however now it will not go off. I found some older pictures of a switch on the arm that swings with your foot when you engage the brake, but I can't find it on my 2004.
Is there a switch down there that needs to be kicked, contacts cleaned or replaced? I checked the fluid level and vacuum hoses and do not see anything obvious.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Xterra. About a month ago it stalled while I was backing out of a parking spot. When I turned the key, the engine turned over but wouldn't start. A few minutes later it started and I drove it on a long road trip. It was fine until today when it stalled when my husband was going around a corner. He waited a few minutes then it started. Now tonight he started it, drove down the block and it stalled again. This time it won't restart.
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I can get my car to rev past 4,000 rpm in gears 1-4 but in 5th gear it wont pass 3,000. It used to be fine, but one day it was just like this and hasn't changed since. This is annoying because where I live some of the speed limits are at 75mph. When I'm in 5th gear at 3,000 rpm I'm only going 65. What can I do to fix this? Reset ECU? Clean MAF sensor? Is it related to an approaching timing belt failure (I'm at 94k miles and it needs to be replaced before 105k)...
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My 2003 Nissan Xterra has recently had a few things go wrong up until now I knew how to fix. Now I have only HOT air coming out of the interior vents. It doesn't matter what I do. I turn the knob to cool and turn the AC on and no cold air. I know that cool air isn't being introduced to mix with the engine air. What are some possible solutions and areas to look at.
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I have a 2003 Nissan Xterra, and have been having starting issues for while. Everybody who does a starting diagnostic test says everything is ok and working. Over the past 18 months, I have gotten new battery (charge is fine), replaced starter ( fine), distributor cap (wires, sparkplugs, cap, also fine.) Alternator has tested fine also, have not replaced this yet. The delay seems to be getting slightly longer, but once kicks in car starts fine. I have put too much money into this already to fix problem that has not gone away. Something is wrong and nobody has a clue Side note, no problems with engine, just takes a few seconds to start.
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2000 Nissan Xterra 2x4. 185,000 miles. I recently took the car to the mechanic a couple of days ago and had the IACV/TPS sensor replaced. Afterwards I had to tighten the throttle cable because of a grinding noise. Now the car putters slightly, then it seems to come close to stalling. This occurs while idling, while parked and at red lights, as well when driving. While in motion the car shudders and shakes slightly, as if on a bumpy road, but its fresh pavement. While these symptoms occur the RPMs (avg=900rpms) fluctuate; spiking to nearly 2,000rpms then plummeting to 3-400rpms. Notes:
(1) I found that the wire coupling on the distributor was broken (Probably Mechanic). However, the metal prongs for the coupling seem intact (Picture).
(2) Not original distributor (from Cardone Select), I do have the original though.
(3) Spark plug wires are original (old) except for 1.
(4) Spark plugs are a bit old, not that old though I think.
(5) It occurs more often during the cold, snow, and rain.
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When I make right turns. Its as if the power steering does not work. It is not constant, no issues making left turns, and seems to happen more often in cold weather. About 5 years ago i had a recall to replace the steering column and thought that may have been the issue but took my car in for the recall, they replaced the steering column and still have the same issue.
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We recently replaced the engine in my 2003 Nissan Xterra and since then we have had a problem with misfires. When accelerating it will periodically. Bog down and the car runs so rough the whole thing shakes. Then it rapidly accelerates and smooths out. Then the check engine light flashes. We have replaced everything not nailed down-plugs, wires, knock, crankshaft and mass flow sensors and on and on.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Xterra with about 100,000 miles. When I start out and get between 45 and 55 miles an hour, it sounds like I am going over speed bumps in the rear end. I noticed that it seems to come on more when I let up on the gas and barely gas it again. What the problem could be?
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I have a 2006 Nissan Xterra. 2 days ago I went to put my daughter in the car, and the rear passenger side door wouldn't open. I climbed in from the other side and tried to manually unlock the door, and it literally would not unlock. All the other doors unlock and open both automatically and manually. Its two days later and we still can't get the door to unlock.
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