Nissan - Versa :: 2010 - Defrost A Car Door That Is Frozen Shut?
Nov 7, 2011
I have a 2010 Nissan Versa and its been getting cold which is normal this time of year. The other morning I went out to warm the car up before taking my son to the bus stop and the door was frozen shut, not just the handle but I couldn't open up my door at all. It was frozen from the inside. I was thinking that because it rained the previous day and the seal around the door got a little wet from the rain when I opened it and didn't dry before it got really chilly and that's what caused it to stick. So I'm wondering, if this happens again, which I'm sure it will....what's a good way to unstick the door? The other morning, I opened up the back the car (it's a hatchback) and crawled in, started the car and cranked the heater up and that seemed to work, but there are some mornings that the whole car is a big block of ice.
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I just ran into this the other morning, I needed to get gas and my whole car was frozen over. No snow, just a thin layer frost.. But enough to freeze the lock on the gas door.
I was not able to get it open at all.. I hit lock/unlock about 25 times and nothing.. I gave up and took the wifes car.. By the time I got home all was thawed out and the gas door was working just fine..
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I need to change the cabin filter in my 2010 Nissan Versa in about 1,300 miles and I can't figure out where it goes.
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-1 (-20 wind chill) here in South Bend this morning, and the Touareg did not like it. All but the drivers door frozen shut. All power windows frozen shut. Defective tyre warning went off once, and then check tyre pressure has stayed on. Wonder what She would do to me if She was not in a garage. The heated seats worked great, how I would have loved to have the heated steering wheel this morning.
This weather is heading East, hope you all on the coast are ready.
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After dining at a restaurant in East Lansing when temp was close to zero F., we found the doors frozen. Not a problem: one yank and they open. Then as soon as we reach 12 mph, instead of the auto lock, the driver's door unlatches and the warning light and beeps come on. Stop. Close door. Continue. Same again. Start, manually lock doors, and at 12 mph driver's door unlatches. And again. Drive home with warning lights and beeps. No problem next day. But curious.
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I was stopped at a red light and when it was time to go, I pressed the gas and instead of driving forward the car coasted backward. I went back and forth between the break and the gas two more times. Same result. The engine didn't rev. After a momentary panic I put on my hazard lights, put the car in park, turned the car completely off and then on again. When I put it back into drive it went forward like a good little car and I was able to turn onto a residential street and park.
What happened?
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I have a 2009 Nissan Versa. This morning the ventilation/AC fan started making an awful noise, rather like a Piper Cub at takeoff. It also vibrated strongly, especially at the 3-4 settings. I checked under the hood but saw nothing suspicious, other than a bunch of sunflower seed hulls on top of the suspension bushing/gasket. The noise is coming from behind the dashboard.
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By accident i put E85 in my nissan versa. according to manual book my engine is not fitted for this kind of fuel- can i still drive to my mechanic and get the tank drained or do i need to tow the car or can i use up the gas.
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For a few months, when the AC is running for a little while, it would hum loudly. If I turned the AC off, after a few minutes, it would stop. When I turned it back on, a few minutes after running again, it would start that loud humming again. While driving down the freeway this evening, my AC stopped blowing. When the car is in idle and the AC is turned on, you can hear something trying to "run", but no air comes out. What this could be?
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I've got a noticeable clicking that I can feel under my feet when I make a turn. It's not there all the time, seems to be worse on rainy days. My first thought was that it was the CV joint, but when I took it in today they put it on the lift and said that the boot is fine.
Could the joint still be bad if they can't see a problem with the boot? Should I take it somewhere else? It just seems pretty likely to be the CV joint, but I suppose it could be something else. I drive a 2007 Nissan Versa with about 48,000 miles.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Versa and my AC will only run on the highest setting. The dealership suggested that the whole panel with AC dials needed to be replaced, they did say they were not sure this was the problem. In doing some research on the web I did see discussion regarding a Nissan Altima that had what sound like a similar problem and the fix was a part called the "blower resistor" which was much cheaper and could be fixed at home.
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I drive a 2003 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab SE. I purchased the car in Honolulu and had no issues with it there. I moved to Colorado in June of 2010, and since then, I have noticed that my truck shocks me everytime I get out and reach to shut the door. I know that the climate is much drier here, but this isn't just a little zap...it makes my whole hand and up my arm feel fuzzy for a couple minutes. I have something installed on my truck that is like an electric anti corrosion device that is connected to the battery that i think is the culprit. It is connected to the battery and emits a high pitched, very faint tone that you can hear when the truck is off and you stand next to it. Do all Nissan's have this? Or is this just because the truck came from hawai'i? And is this normal?
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I have a 2007 Nissan Versa, which I love. The AC automatically comes on when you turn on the defroster, but the light on the button will not go off when I turn on the heat. I assume that means the AC stays on as well. It has been doing this all winter, so I have been trying not to use the heat. As I understand it, my husband was at the dealer and the mechanic said something about having to hold the button down for 20 seconds to reset something, but I have tried this and it does not work.
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I have a 2010 Versa with nitrogen filled tires and the tire pressure light always turns on when the weather gets cold. It did it last year too and I took it to the dealership and they checked the pressure on the tire and added a little nitrogen and the light turned off and stayed off. Now mind you, I've driven this car cross country, no tire problems, and haven't had any since then until the weather got cold again. What is going on? The dealership said they can reset the sensor on it but will charge me.
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I have a 2012 Nissan Versa with a 1.6 Engine/CVT transmission. When going down a steep hill the RPMs rev up to at least 3000 or more...is this normal for a car to do this?
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My car started making a weird like shhddddhshdshhhdddshhddd when I press on the gass. I am super paranoid bc last year they replaced the lower engine block bc of my oil mixing with the coolent. I need to replace my tires, could that be a factor? Iam a girl who knows nothing about cars.
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The little window on my gear stick (the car is an automatic) is broken, and so when I shifted into Drive (D) I did not realize I actually shifted into "2" which is right below that. I drove on the highway for about 15 miles between 60-70 mph before I finally figured out that the source of the noise (basically it just sounded like the car was revving and straining up a hill the whole time. Since we just had the car worked on, I thought it was related to that). Once I realized I was in 2 I slowed down and shifted to D.
Everything seemed fine until I got off the highway. At the stoplight off the exit ramp, I went to turn right on red after coming to a full stop and nothing happened. It seemed the engine stalled, although I did not feel any shuddering or tell-tale signs that it was about to stall. The radio did not hiccup and the windshield wipers kept going without pause, but the car was essentially off, as it didn't even rev when I put my foot on the gas. I restarted it and drove home with no issues.
The next day when we took it out, we noticed a clicking sound. Not a single click, but a continuous sound, like an enhanced version of a playing card on the wheel of a bicycle. It doesn't seem to matter what rpm, what speed, the sound is present, although not necessarily consistently on. When we press the accelerator or ease off, we get a burst of the sound. Sometimes at higher speeds it is more consistent, occasionally when idly we can hear it softly in the background. No stalling occurred that day.
Tonight I drove it to work, which is a 20 minute drive on the highway. What started off as the playing card/bicycle sound soon turned into a sound that is reminiscent of a roller coaster being pulled up the first giant hill. Sort of a faster cranking sound. Then again, without preamble or warning, it stalled when I came to a stop off the exit to my workplace.
I haven't checked anything under the hood. The oil was changed almost 4000 miles ago. I don't even know what to begin checking first. I just put $ into the vehicle to fix it after an uninsured driver hit me (fender bender) and am still waiting on court proceedings from that..
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I have recently done some work on my car. I had a clunking noise and needed new rotors, warped. I found out I had a broken coil spring, left front, which I have discovered is fairly common for this car, this was the clunking noise.. About 100k on it. I put on new brake pads, ceramic, and rotors and when I drove the car there was a horrible screeching sound from the left front wheel. Not a sound from the right front. I drove it the first day thinking they would quiet down. They did not.
I took pads off and placed lubricant on the back sides of them, reassembled and drove, no change, still as loud as before. I took all of the brake stuff off and turned the axle and the noise was still there. I changed the wheel bearing thinking that this could be the only thing that would make such a noise. No change with the new wheel bearing! Same noise just as before! I didn't think that this noise could be a half shaft as I thought they mostly made a grinding noise. This is definitely a scraping metal sound, pulses with wheel revolution. I am at a loss as what could be causing this noise.
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My 2013 Nissan Versa SV has some kinda almost-clear sheet of plastic (I think it is; I don't think it's glass) hanging parallel to the doors underneath the car. I can't tell you if it's part of the car or somehow got hooked up into it. I wouldn't have noticed it had it not been making a noise, typically when I first start it up. After I stick in Drive the noise disappears until I'm at a stop light. So for the most part, it's only when it's in Neutral that I actually hear the problem. It's not a problem if I don't hear it.
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Experienced the problem of a flashing defrost button and the entire HVAC system "frozen"? All the other buttons become useless while the defrost button is flashing on and off. If I then hold either the a/c button or the auto button, the system starts up at 75 degrees with the air running. I can then adjust to where I want it to be.
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I have recently noticed that if I am driving at speeds above 40 mph and apply the brakes, the car (including the steering wheel) seems to buck/shake. I've learned to ease off the gas and let the speed drop before applying the brakes-- this seems to work, but I'm concerned about what is going on. This is an '07 Nissan Versa...
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