Nissan - Versa :: 2010 - Changing Cabin Filters?
Apr 27, 2012
I need to change the cabin filter in my 2010 Nissan Versa in about 1,300 miles and I can't figure out where it goes.
View 2 RepliesI need to change the cabin filter in my 2010 Nissan Versa in about 1,300 miles and I can't figure out where it goes.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2008 Prius and I have been taking it to the dealer for service because it seems like non-Toyota shops don't know how to economically service the Prius.I'm seeing that the dealer I go to also seems to want to change the filters and rotate the tires at every service and this really increases the cost well above a normal oil change price.
How often have people really been changing the engine filter; cabin filter; and rotating tires? How often is this really necessary? I'm at 108000 miles now.
I have a 2010 Nissan Versa and its been getting cold which is normal this time of year. The other morning I went out to warm the car up before taking my son to the bus stop and the door was frozen shut, not just the handle but I couldn't open up my door at all. It was frozen from the inside. I was thinking that because it rained the previous day and the seal around the door got a little wet from the rain when I opened it and didn't dry before it got really chilly and that's what caused it to stick. So I'm wondering, if this happens again, which I'm sure it will....what's a good way to unstick the door? The other morning, I opened up the back the car (it's a hatchback) and crawled in, started the car and cranked the heater up and that seemed to work, but there are some mornings that the whole car is a big block of ice.
View 12 RepliesWhats the difference? which one is better? Im in the market for a cabin air filter, but I noticed there are ones that are similar to the OEM material, and then there are Charcoal cabin air filters? What is so special about a charcoal air filter?
View 14 RepliesHow many miles should I go before changing fuel filters and air filter?
View 14 Replies2013 6.7 F350 13,500 miles... Changed the fuel filters and got them bled out and truck runs OK but have a whining noise from the engine compartment fuel filter area.
View 14 RepliesI need to change the fuel filters on my 2014 F250 with a 6.7L. Are there any special tools required and any tips on how to get this done?
View 7 RepliesI was stopped at a red light and when it was time to go, I pressed the gas and instead of driving forward the car coasted backward. I went back and forth between the break and the gas two more times. Same result. The engine didn't rev. After a momentary panic I put on my hazard lights, put the car in park, turned the car completely off and then on again. When I put it back into drive it went forward like a good little car and I was able to turn onto a residential street and park.
What happened?
I have a 2009 Nissan Versa. This morning the ventilation/AC fan started making an awful noise, rather like a Piper Cub at takeoff. It also vibrated strongly, especially at the 3-4 settings. I checked under the hood but saw nothing suspicious, other than a bunch of sunflower seed hulls on top of the suspension bushing/gasket. The noise is coming from behind the dashboard.
View 5 RepliesBy accident i put E85 in my nissan versa. according to manual book my engine is not fitted for this kind of fuel- can i still drive to my mechanic and get the tank drained or do i need to tow the car or can i use up the gas.
View 19 RepliesFor a few months, when the AC is running for a little while, it would hum loudly. If I turned the AC off, after a few minutes, it would stop. When I turned it back on, a few minutes after running again, it would start that loud humming again. While driving down the freeway this evening, my AC stopped blowing. When the car is in idle and the AC is turned on, you can hear something trying to "run", but no air comes out. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesI've got a noticeable clicking that I can feel under my feet when I make a turn. It's not there all the time, seems to be worse on rainy days. My first thought was that it was the CV joint, but when I took it in today they put it on the lift and said that the boot is fine.
Could the joint still be bad if they can't see a problem with the boot? Should I take it somewhere else? It just seems pretty likely to be the CV joint, but I suppose it could be something else. I drive a 2007 Nissan Versa with about 48,000 miles.
I have a 2007 Nissan Versa and my AC will only run on the highest setting. The dealership suggested that the whole panel with AC dials needed to be replaced, they did say they were not sure this was the problem. In doing some research on the web I did see discussion regarding a Nissan Altima that had what sound like a similar problem and the fix was a part called the "blower resistor" which was much cheaper and could be fixed at home.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Nissan Versa, which I love. The AC automatically comes on when you turn on the defroster, but the light on the button will not go off when I turn on the heat. I assume that means the AC stays on as well. It has been doing this all winter, so I have been trying not to use the heat. As I understand it, my husband was at the dealer and the mechanic said something about having to hold the button down for 20 seconds to reset something, but I have tried this and it does not work.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Versa with nitrogen filled tires and the tire pressure light always turns on when the weather gets cold. It did it last year too and I took it to the dealership and they checked the pressure on the tire and added a little nitrogen and the light turned off and stayed off. Now mind you, I've driven this car cross country, no tire problems, and haven't had any since then until the weather got cold again. What is going on? The dealership said they can reset the sensor on it but will charge me.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2012 Nissan Versa with a 1.6 Engine/CVT transmission. When going down a steep hill the RPMs rev up to at least 3000 or more...is this normal for a car to do this?
View 3 RepliesMy car started making a weird like shhddddhshdshhhdddshhddd when I press on the gass. I am super paranoid bc last year they replaced the lower engine block bc of my oil mixing with the coolent. I need to replace my tires, could that be a factor? Iam a girl who knows nothing about cars.
View 1 RepliesThe little window on my gear stick (the car is an automatic) is broken, and so when I shifted into Drive (D) I did not realize I actually shifted into "2" which is right below that. I drove on the highway for about 15 miles between 60-70 mph before I finally figured out that the source of the noise (basically it just sounded like the car was revving and straining up a hill the whole time. Since we just had the car worked on, I thought it was related to that). Once I realized I was in 2 I slowed down and shifted to D.
Everything seemed fine until I got off the highway. At the stoplight off the exit ramp, I went to turn right on red after coming to a full stop and nothing happened. It seemed the engine stalled, although I did not feel any shuddering or tell-tale signs that it was about to stall. The radio did not hiccup and the windshield wipers kept going without pause, but the car was essentially off, as it didn't even rev when I put my foot on the gas. I restarted it and drove home with no issues.
The next day when we took it out, we noticed a clicking sound. Not a single click, but a continuous sound, like an enhanced version of a playing card on the wheel of a bicycle. It doesn't seem to matter what rpm, what speed, the sound is present, although not necessarily consistently on. When we press the accelerator or ease off, we get a burst of the sound. Sometimes at higher speeds it is more consistent, occasionally when idly we can hear it softly in the background. No stalling occurred that day.
Tonight I drove it to work, which is a 20 minute drive on the highway. What started off as the playing card/bicycle sound soon turned into a sound that is reminiscent of a roller coaster being pulled up the first giant hill. Sort of a faster cranking sound. Then again, without preamble or warning, it stalled when I came to a stop off the exit to my workplace.
I haven't checked anything under the hood. The oil was changed almost 4000 miles ago. I don't even know what to begin checking first. I just put $ into the vehicle to fix it after an uninsured driver hit me (fender bender) and am still waiting on court proceedings from that..
I have recently done some work on my car. I had a clunking noise and needed new rotors, warped. I found out I had a broken coil spring, left front, which I have discovered is fairly common for this car, this was the clunking noise.. About 100k on it. I put on new brake pads, ceramic, and rotors and when I drove the car there was a horrible screeching sound from the left front wheel. Not a sound from the right front. I drove it the first day thinking they would quiet down. They did not.
I took pads off and placed lubricant on the back sides of them, reassembled and drove, no change, still as loud as before. I took all of the brake stuff off and turned the axle and the noise was still there. I changed the wheel bearing thinking that this could be the only thing that would make such a noise. No change with the new wheel bearing! Same noise just as before! I didn't think that this noise could be a half shaft as I thought they mostly made a grinding noise. This is definitely a scraping metal sound, pulses with wheel revolution. I am at a loss as what could be causing this noise.
My 2013 Nissan Versa SV has some kinda almost-clear sheet of plastic (I think it is; I don't think it's glass) hanging parallel to the doors underneath the car. I can't tell you if it's part of the car or somehow got hooked up into it. I wouldn't have noticed it had it not been making a noise, typically when I first start it up. After I stick in Drive the noise disappears until I'm at a stop light. So for the most part, it's only when it's in Neutral that I actually hear the problem. It's not a problem if I don't hear it.
View 3 RepliesI have recently noticed that if I am driving at speeds above 40 mph and apply the brakes, the car (including the steering wheel) seems to buck/shake. I've learned to ease off the gas and let the speed drop before applying the brakes-- this seems to work, but I'm concerned about what is going on. This is an '07 Nissan Versa...
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