I have a 2007 Titan that just turned 100,000 miles. Over the last 6 weeks or so I've noticed a huge drop in gas mileage. Used to get close to 400 miles a tank and now as of last night I got 248 miles on a tank. Average of 10 miles a gallon. Nothing has changed as far as driving habits or anything like that.
View 19 RepliesIn a rush, I accidentally hooked the cables up wrong while jumping it off. Now the lights and all come on, but it will not start at all....
View 12 RepliesI changed my fuel pump cause it died and now my mileage is about 100 less per tank? What could it be.
View 2 RepliesMy 03 2.7 has suddenly lost around 4 MPG in city driving. Haven't taken it out on the highway to know where that is at. Used to get around 20/21 and now I'm around 16/17. Mileage is at 97k now and has new spark plugs and brakes done recently. I know the brakes are not dragging. All the fluids are fairly new and the car drives the same as before, I can't feel a difference in performance. Just lower gas mileage. I haven't changed out the T-stat yet, but the temp gauge in car reads the same as always. I checked the car with a code checker and there are no pending codes. I know this is the age where the oxygen sensors could start to go bad and have never replaced them.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2011 Nissan Maxima SV that has poor gas mileage. I took it to Nissan to get checked out but they said there's nothing they could do because the car is showing no codes or no check engine light. I got my spark plugs changed, it seemed like it worked but a week or so later, it went back to how it was (the gas mileage). 2 weeks later, my mechanic checked the spark plugs in front of me, no rust or leaks on them. I burn a half tank of gas every 2 days and that's just driving local to work and back.
View 16 RepliesMy daughter has a 1993 maxima SE (3.0 DOHC) that ran ok until one day when she left work and started the car it was running very rough (missing and sputtering). She had the car towed here and I looked it over,it had a lot of visible problems which I have fixed (cracked coil packs,leaking valve cover gaskets, filthy fuel filter,clogged pcv valve, oil saturated air filter,spark plugs burned down to nubs etc, I replaced all those obviously defective parts) but the car still idles very rough, idles too low RPMs (400-500 rpms), exhaust smells like raw fuel and it only gets 5 miles to the gallon on my last test drive.
I removed the intake manifold to get to the rear fuel injectors to see if they might be stuck open and leaking.The car had been sitting for about 5 days with the battery disconnected and when I removed the first injector there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.I left the injector out overnight and the next morning there was fuel all over the top of the engine and in the fuel rail.I put the injector back in and unbolted the rail,I reconnected the battery and turned the key to start the fuel pump.I waited for about 3-4 minutes and did not see any fuel leaking from the injectors.I turned the key off and removed it from the ignition,disconnected the battery and bolted the fuel rail back down.I again removed one of the injectors and there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.After about 2 minutes, with the key out of the ignition and the battery disconnected,I saw fuel start filling the rail and the injector port, so I quickly put the injector back in.
I`m thinking the next step would be to replace the fuel pressure regulator and recheck the injectors for leaks.Am I on the right track here with the pressure regulator? What could be causing the car to suddenly start acting this way, my daughter said the car ran fine on her way to work ( although I hardly think it could have been running "fine" with cracked coil packs,clogged air filter,worn plugs etc)...
I purchased my 2001 Nissan Sentra about 4 weeks ago and the check engine light came on about a week into owning it. I scheduled an appointment to get it checked, but continued to drive it without issue until one day I started it and as soon as I began driving it lost power. The more gas I gave it, the worse it got. It just wouldn't let me go anywhere. So I parked the car and let it sit for about an hour. Then when I went back to show someone else the problem, the car started and drove again like nothing was wrong. Since then, this has been happening frequently. I will start the car, it will spit and sputter and lose power, I will turn the car off and wait a while, it will start up again no problem.
My local mechanic told me the computer was throwing a bunch of different codes, including the one for the catalytic converters. They also told me that since the problem seems electrical (the car seems to reset itself when I turn it off) it could be that the computer is going and that’s what needs to be replaced. I've taken the car back to the dealership where I bought it, they replaced the oxygen sensors, thinking that would fix the problem. I just got the car back yesterday and drove it for about 60 miles without any problems, then that check engine light came back on and the same old problem is back. My question is, how do I know if the problem is mechanical or electrical? What if I replace the catalytic converters when it’s actually the computer that was the problem all along or vice versa?
I've had the Titan fuel tank installed for about a month now and am loving the extra range, although this morning I walked by the truck and got a slight whiff of diesel by the fuel filler door. I pulled out the flashlight to take a look, and noticed a really small, faint trail of diesel fuel running down the driver's side of the tank near the rear strap.
I crawled under the truck to inspect it as best as I could in the driveway, feeling around the sender, filler, and vent tube connections, and didn't notice any obvious puddles of diesel. About the most I got was some dampness around the sender unit seal, but it wasn't much, and could even be residue from the fuel lines dripping during installation of the tank. Based on where the trail down the side of the tank has formed, my best guess is it's going to be a filler or vent tube hose clamp that I didn't get tight enough.
Unfortunately I just filled the tank up last night and am headed out camping for the weekend this morning. I followed all the install instructions exactly, making sure to check the torque on the sender unit seal four times before installing the tank back in the truck because I didn't want to deal with any leaks, so I really hope it's not that seal. I also filled the tank up to the brim right after install and crawled all around it a day or so later and noticed no dampness or leaks. Needless to say, I'm not looking forward to dropping the tank again and then potentially waiting on parts if something is defective. I'm waiting on a call back from Titan to get their advice.
Below are a couple pics of the weepage. Obviously not a huge leak, but something I want to get taken care of ASAP.
Installed a 65 Gal Titan Tank the other day. I Finally got a chance to fill her up all the way.. well as much as i could.
My Level sensor is not functioning and I was only able to put in a total of 160 Liters when it should have been right around 246L.
My question is this : I need to syphon my tank now. Is there anything preventing me from doing that or will a 1/2 hose work?
I haven't owned a Lexus in a while. I had a 95 ES300 and a 90 ES250.
I just bought an 07 with 66,000 miles on it. Amazing shape. Had it checked out at dealer, no issue other than a new battery.
I am on my second tank of gas and average about 16.5 MPG. All of my driving is to/from work, which is only about 2 miles. So, a lot of start/stop, shut off, repeat.
I do make a couple 15 mile trips a week to the store, etc. I know I shouldn't be getting 30mpgs based on this, but does 16.5 seem low?
We have a garden variety 2007 basic Prius. That description will tell you that I'm no Mechanic. The mileage was between 40 and 43 MPG for years. Now it has suddenly dropped to 33 and 35. The average temp here in Florida is fairly consistent at above 60 F, so that is not it. Oil changed at the dealer, and not overfilled. Tires at the right pressure. Worn to perhaps 50% of their avg tread life. Also, I had the 12 Volt battery replaced at the dealer a few months ago, and no change. Is there a way to check?
View 4 RepliesI have a 07 Ford F150, 4.2 liter V-6, that the city gas mileage has fallen from 17 to 12.5, highway from 22 to 16.5, in that last year or so. Two garages have ran a test on the computer and can find nothing wrong.
View 5 RepliesI'm looking at an extremely low mileage Truck. Original owned it for 3yrs drove it 200 miles. Sold at auction and now has almost 300 miles on it. It is a 2007.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2008 Santa Fe SE 4 cylinder that has been steadily losing gas mileage over the past few years. I had the fuel injectors cleaned a couple years ago but that did not work. When I bought it (used) in 2010, it was getting 22 mpg. It's now down to 17 mpg. The dealer recommends replacing the fuel filter (& lots of other parts). The car has just under 66,000 miles on it.
I did a search and also read through the fuel mileage thread that's on another Hyundai model forum, but nothing there addressed the slow, steady decrease, although I could have missed something .
There's no stalling, hesitation, slow acceleration, or other weirdness with the car otherwise. Driving habits and routes have not changed, although I might be driving a little slower than 5 years ago. I've had the codes dumped multiple times, with nothing showing up.
I've had my XB 5-speed for nearly a year and 10000 miles. It as been dead on reliable and fun to drive. My gas mileage has varied from 26 to 31 in mixed driving and from 32 to 35 on the highway. I use premium fuel only because I can get it without ethanol. My fuel mileage also increased a couple of mpg due to getting the power robbing ethanol out. True it is probably not enough to offset the extra expense but I like not having the stuff in my car. My only dissatisfactions has been with the transmission gear ratios. They are way to low. This torquy engine could easily do with a ratio that would drop about 500 rpm for more relaxed highway cruising.
As it is, though, my XB will go up any hill or long grade without breathing hard! Another is the instrumentation. I don't mind the center mounted set-up but speedometer and trip meter for mpg ratings are both inaccurate. My speedo reads about 2.5 mph high and the fuel mileage read out has about the same error, also on the high side. I have the stock 16" tires. The clutch has a narrow engagement band and can be difficult to be smooth on. The car is fairly quiet, is comfortable and this years hot, humid summer has shown it has one of the best air conditioners I have ever experienced in a car. I thought it might be an electric unit rather than a belt driven compressor because there is absolutely no perceived drag when the compressor kicks on.
Checked the MPG Since Last Fillup numbers against computing the actual miles driven and fuel used manually? I find the (2011 460) numbers to be consistently 2 mpg or more higher than actuality. To be as accurate as I could I used the same pump at each filling, letting it stop automatically when full. I now wonder at the accuracy of the "total mpg"--which shows 14.1 for 15,000 miles. I drove 5000 of those, and never got more than 12.5 mpg (by the Lexus meter.)
View 11 RepliesThis Easter I put summer tires on my "new" (owned about 4 weeks) prius -07, and cleaned and greased brakes.
With winter tires (almost new Nokia hakka xx, stud less) I got 4.5 l/100km (52mpg) easy and 4.2 (56mpg) at best, now I get 5.5 (42mpg) and 5.3 if I struggle, if I relax and put cruise control on I get 5.8 (40mpg). I travel 100km to work every day.
Summer tires is Michelin primacy (about 2 seasons?) pumped to 3.0/2.8 bar (over inflated).
Brakes don't seem hot after drive and they was really clean and easy to move after my service so my guess is that they work fine...
Mileage went down over the weekend so I see a clear link.
It was more fun trying to hypermile at 56mpg aiming for 60 then it is at 42 aiming for 45...
12v battery charged, just in case. Still same temperature out 1-8 C. Oil and all filters changed first week (will change trans axle oil in summer). Travel to work got 4% shorter so tire size must be a small reason to the +20% problem.
2007 Sonata GLS - I4; 55kmiles ... I plan to sea foam on my Sonata as it continues to have slow acceleration and poor mileage. Looking for a picture of the Brake Booster or Vacuum line? I want to make sure I am pouring it in the right place.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 2009 LS 460, and I was wondering is their anyway to remove the display of the odometer reading for the entire mileage on the car?
View 7 RepliesMy wife has a 2007 Toyota Sequoia with only 17,000 miles on it (as of Mar 2013). It has had regular scheduled maintenance - engine oil changes, etc. However, due to low mileage, it has never had Transmission or Radiator fluid changed. All miles have been in town, short trips. Is there a need to have these fluids changed just due to the age of the Sequoia and type of miles driven. It is an expense I would rather not do unless necessary. We do plan on keeping it to well past 100,000 miles. Considering the age and miles, is there anything else that I should be watchful for or take action on?
View 13 RepliesI was listening to my MP3 CD as usual then suddenly I lost all audio and all I can hear is a pulsating screech "screech... screech... screech... screech..." I lost volume control. Even if I turned off audio it still screeches. Do I have a blown out amp/speaker?
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