Nissan - Sentra :: Engine Revs Up To About 1500 RPMs When Started After Parked On Slight Downhill
Jun 15, 2011
This is just a basic Sentra 2.0L with a CVT, about 80k miles.
I park on a very very slight downhill grade.. very slight.. almost flat.. The car starts just fine, put it in reverse, push the pedal to the floor, engine revs up to about 1500 rpms (I'm assuming it has a limiter on it because it won't go past 1500) and the car sits still. Release the accelerator, floor it again, car moves about 6", repeat a few times and eventually I can back out. That ain't normal.
It does a similar thing when in Drive, except it will actually start moving but very slowly. So slow that I'm afraid I'm going to get T-boned if I try to make a left turn. Once I get up to about 10mph it starts to feel somewhat normal.
Once it starts moving it doesn't seem to have any trouble maintaining highway speeds. The engine might be running a little faster than normal, but to be honest I'm not sure if it is or not. Pulls up some pretty significant hills at 60mph at around 3k RPM.. which seems reasonable.
What it could be? Transmission is still under warranty so I'm hoping it's that.. I don't really have the $ to throw at this thing right now. By the way - it's not throwing any codes or anything.
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2000 Nissan Sentra with 105,000 miles. Runs great. All scheduled maintenance from the beginning. Grandma owned until I got a hold of it 2 years ago.
The beginning...
The car has had a slight exhaust-type smell for about a month. I thought it was either an exhaust leak or a small oil leak. I overlooked this as it was running great and I only drive to and from work at a total of 5 miles/day. I was going to be driving it about 20 miles so I figured I should just double check the oil.
Before my drive, I checked the oil and the dipstick said I had absolutely no oil. Backstory: I got my oil changed about 2 months ago and they broke the dipstick. They replaced it with a new one. I drove a few blocks to get oil. I purchased 2 quarts filled it up. I drove off and about a half a block later it started smoking bad. White smoke canvassing the whole street.
I turned around and went back to the auto parts store. I had a guy come out and look at it and he was baffled. The only thing he though was that it had run completely dry and it need more oil. We put 2 more quarts of oil in it (4 now) and it did not register at all on the dip-stick. A small oil leak was discovered coming from the head gasket (that was the smell). Also, there was no milkiness under the oil cap indicating
I decided to drive it back to work to leave it overnight. It smoked like hell and I made it about 4 blocks before it died. I pushed it the rest of the way and it stayed overnight.
The next day, I spoke to a mechanic friend. The only thing he could think of was that the dipstick was not the right size and it wasn’t reading any oil. The oil I put in was extra and the car was burning it off. He suggested I drain out all the oil and put 4 quarts in.
I drained all the oil but only 4 quarts came out. I added 3 quarts of oil and checked it again. Not it was reading about 10 times more oil than what I was supposed to have.
My mechanic friend said to start it up and the oil level should go down. I did start it up and the oil level did go down but it was reading about 5 times more oil than it should have. That is where I am at at this point. Hopefully it isn't a blown head gasket or piston.
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My families 2001 Nissan sentra often stalls at stoplights, has low power sometimes in the low rpm's and sometimes (though not always) chugs/jolts a bit at low rpms and has trouble "overcoming" that window and getting more power. If I give it more gas the engine seems to get "normal" at around 2500 or 3000 rpm's and then is fine.
We took it in and the mechanic said it was a bad O2 sensor or MAF sensor... can't remember which. We tried replacing the MAF sensor but it still has the problem. We have heard that we may need the computer re-set somehow or made to recognize and sync up with the new part. As we call around this is very expensive just to make a part that is already installed work. Is this necessary? What's the next, cheapest, step.
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Recently leased a 2014 Nissan Sentra SL It has 800 miles on it now. Immediately I felt a slight vibration when coming to a stop. It is intermittent happens about 50% of the time. Brought it to my dealer and he said he couldn't feel the problem on the test drive, if it persists come back to him.I plan on going back to service next week. As I apply the brakes it slows down smoothly but just before coming to a complete stop is when it vibrates. Most people say my car has warped rotors causing this,My question is: How can a brand new car with 10 miles on it have warped rotors?
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V10 - When you shift into tiptronic to brake going downhill, the engine first revs up and then the transmission engages. Sort of an automatic double clutch!
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My 2003 Nissan Sentra was doing fine a few days ago until I started up a very steep hill and went into 1st gear. There was a burning smell for about 2 blocks so I shifted to 2nd gear. The smell went away. When I was in 1st gear it did not sound or feel like I was trying to go too fast for the gear. I just smelled the burning. Same hill in 2nd, no smell. How much should I worry?
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I ran over a chunk of ice at about 15mph. I could definitely hear it scraping the undercarriage. Now, when the engine is on (regardless of RPM), there's a hissing sound (like air escaping, or a belt sliding against something) coming from the back right side of the undercarriage. What I damaged? No smoke, no leaks... just the hissing sound.
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So recently my service engine light came on suddenly and I saw my tachometer acting a little weird along with my car vibrating slightly at stop lights. I know I should get this checked out because it's better to nip this problem in the bud early on before the problem worsens or starts to affect other parts of the car. My questions are,
What the problem is? I've read online that sometimes the service engine soon light comes on because of small issues that can be resolved by e.g. tightening the gas cap etc etc or it may be something that requires professional attention. I don't want to have to see a mechanic if the issue can be resolved by myself.
I've had terrible experiences with mechanics, what often happens is that I get charged for work done and the problem isn't solved. This happened once with an individual mechanic and I'll probably look at certified dealers such as Mossy Nissan. But that being said, the reviews of all the Nissan certified service centres in my area have horrible ratings and reviews so even going to them is a hesitation for me.
How can I protect myself from getting ripped off? What information should I ask for or tell them? Do i ask them for the codes when they run a diagnostic test and what should I expect to get charged for and what should I expect not to get charged for.
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My speedometer shows 15 mph at idle stop in Drive gear. Sometimes it fluctuates simultaneously with the engine. Then tachometer also fluctuates. I took it to the dealer, and they wanted to replace an instrument cluster (under the dashboard), but I declined. If it is a cluster, why does it fluctuate with the engine and tachometer? I took it to the shop, but it did not do it then.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra 1.8l. I had a bad tensioner and old belts. I replaced both belts with the Dayco polyribbed belts and put on a new tensioner pulley. All went well and engine noise is gone; however, when starting the engine I get a squeak in one of the belts. I've tightened each belt a bit more several times. I still get one short squeak every time I start the car. I loosened one belt so I could spin the waterpump by hand. It felt and sounded fine. Do I have a problem here or are these Dayco belts prone to this? The old belts were gator belts. I suppose I could swap them back and see if squeak disappears.
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I have a 2006 nissan sentra about 58,100 miles. The car recieves the regular oil changes. I got a service engine light and a mechanic saw it. He scanned the car and nothing came up as a cause so he cleared the light. The light has popped up again. What can I do ?
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45000 miles on this sentra we purchased used from local dealer. Now and then car lurches or hiccups, no real pattern. CEl has come on, dealer reads code and makes repairs but problem never solved. One code which came on was code for vent control valve, dealer said not to worry, cel went off but problem remains. One day, car stopped responding to gas, engine running but not engaged, pulled over, turned off engine, restarted and it was fine for rest of trip. Catalytic converter replaced after cel was on last summer. Side note, radio turns off now and then for no reason, maybe there is some electrical problem. Recently cel came on, code was for crankshaft position sensor, problem unresolved.
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My 2002 Nissan Sentra's check engine light keeps coming on. It came on about three weeks ago, and our mechanic replaced an oxygen sensor. Two or three days later, it came back on. He figured the first sensor was faulty, and replaced it with another. The light came on as I was driving away from the place. The mechanic replaced some of the wires. And now, a week after that, the light came on again.
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I have a manual 2000 Nissan Sentra with 101,000 miles. The Service Engine Soon light stays on. I was told it was an vacuum leak or mass air flow or basically the mixture of oxygen is off. (I already had one mass air flow put in a few years ago.) I have been ignoring the message. We went camping and drove twice to 9,000 feet. No problems on road at all. The car runs great. In fact we got 35 mpg on the trip. Am I possibly hurting the car by ignoring the message?
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I filled up my gas after it was a little under half a tank . I tighten my gas cap . I started my car then out of the blue the check engine came on. I shut off car and tighten gas cap again making sure it was as tight as it could be . I started my car again and the solid check engine light stayed. It is a 2006 Nissan sentra automatic 1.8 . About 70,000 miles
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I recently had my "Service Engine Light" come on, Sunday to be exact. I went through my normal procedure of checking the fuel cap and drove several times to no avail. So today I ran by Autozone where I got the P0302 code. Now I realize I could go in for a tune up, but I'm a college student and just spent all my money on books so I'm looking for some DIY solutions before I lay down any large amounts of money. Where to start. As for a bit more background, I filled my car up with gas on Friday, the light came on Sunday and the car will shake on initial idle of the car.
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Curious. When I first start the car and I'm driving then come to a stop I feel engine rumble or shake. It only does it the first time I stop. Car is under warranty but I'm curious as to why it is. Also it doesn't do it all the time so that's another problem with bringing it to the dealer.
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I live in CA and recently my car passed the smog test, but failed inspection because the check engine light on the board was on. When the diagnostic test was done, it said there's a problem with the catalytic converter. It's so frustrating because the car's emissions are within limits. , I was thinking... Is there a way to get the catalytic converter to run cleaner without replacing it? If it can run long enough to pass the diagnostic test, my car could pass inspection.
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Since I have gotten my Sentra 2003 I have had issues with it. This past year my thermostat went about 6 weeks ago. I noticed that when my car would idle the engine would rev. Over the weekend I drove on the highway for 2 hours. When I started slowing the speed don I noticed that I could press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor without any resistance. It came back up. I rolled into the toll plaza and stopped to pay the toll at which point I could shift the shifter into a gear but the car would not catch. No movement. I think my clutch mechanism needs to be fully replaced as the car has 115000 miles with the original still intact. IS that most likely the case and what am I looking at for the cost?
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I own a 2009 Nissan Sentra with a CVT transmission. It has about 65,000 miles. During the warmer months, my wife and I have both experienced times while driving (usually for more than 2 hours) when the engine would lose power while going up a hill. After doing some reading we learned that this was common in Sentra and Rogue models with CVT transmissions. Apparently the transmission fluid heats up, boils, and foams. The foam triggers a sensor that cuts power to the engine. Once the fluid's temperature decreases the car performs as it should.
We have visited the dealership and even have a case number with Nissan consumer affairs. After many appointments and phone calls, the only action taken was decreasing the level of transmission fluid. This action was approved by Nissan. This has worked a little but the issue still occasionally persists. For the record, neither my wife nor I are expecting this to drive like a race car. We'd just like it work correctly. I know Nissan has extended the warranty on this and many CVT transmissions.
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(This is a continuation of a previous thread: [URL] ..... )
I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 75,000 miles on it. Several months ago (see above link) the check engine light came on with a P0304 cylinder 4 misfire code. The only symptom appears to be a rough idle/shaking every 3rd or 4th start for the first 10-15 seconds, but runs smoothly afterwards. My mechanic replaced all my spark plugs (I had new plugs put it at 50,000 miles for the same issue) of which the one from cylinder 4 was worn down much more than the rest. The problem persisted so they replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter and switched the spark coils from cylinder 4 to a different cylinder, but the code still read cylinder 4 so it wasn't the coil. That was back in October.
I took my car back in last week for the same problem and without starting my car (because the problem is worst on the first start) they pushed my car into the bay and did a smoke test, no leaks in the fuel lines. Then they checked the cylinder and said that there was "excess" fuel in the cylinder and replaced the fuel injector. Then after ~3 days the check engine came back on with the same P0304 misfire code. Previous repairs/diagnostics rule out spark plugs, coils, fuel pressure, and injectors.
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