Nissan - Sentra :: 2006 - Belt Squeak When Starting The Engine
Mar 22, 2016
I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra 1.8l. I had a bad tensioner and old belts. I replaced both belts with the Dayco polyribbed belts and put on a new tensioner pulley. All went well and engine noise is gone; however, when starting the engine I get a squeak in one of the belts. I've tightened each belt a bit more several times. I still get one short squeak every time I start the car. I loosened one belt so I could spin the waterpump by hand. It felt and sounded fine. Do I have a problem here or are these Dayco belts prone to this? The old belts were gator belts. I suppose I could swap them back and see if squeak disappears.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra with about 58k miles on it. When it shifts into gear I hear a slight squeak, almost like a bushing or something like that. It does not sound mechanically related. More of something squeaking or loose etc.
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I am having issues with my 02 Nissan Sentra turning over when I am starting the car. First for some background my car has almost exactly 115k miles on it. I have noticed the problem is getting slowly worse and worse. What happens is when I turn the key the engine makes a slow grrrr and rev sound, then a slighty faster grrr and rev, followed by a faster one before it finally turns over. There have been instances before when I have have to give it a good two or three times before it would turn over at all. I am not sure what is causing the problem. I do have one idea is that recently my gas mileage has been going down so I added Techron from the auto shop before 2 of my last 3 fillups (I didn't on the last fill up since I was having the issues) Could that cause the problem? Other than that I am thinking maybe something with the battery (its a bit over 3 years old) or the spark plugs or fuel pump would be my best bet? I tried to take an audio recording of the issue but you have to really turn up the volume to hear the low lever grrr and revs before the car starts.
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I have a 2006 nissan sentra about 58,100 miles. The car recieves the regular oil changes. I got a service engine light and a mechanic saw it. He scanned the car and nothing came up as a cause so he cleared the light. The light has popped up again. What can I do ?
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I filled up my gas after it was a little under half a tank . I tighten my gas cap . I started my car then out of the blue the check engine came on. I shut off car and tighten gas cap again making sure it was as tight as it could be . I started my car again and the solid check engine light stayed. It is a 2006 Nissan sentra automatic 1.8 . About 70,000 miles
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I have a 2000 Nissan sentra and I have times when I will drive for couple days and then it won't start it will just crank over and over but won't fire I have had it to several people but no answer replaced the fuel pump relay switch but nothing
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There have been two instances where I have shut the car off and then it is dead when I try to restart. Not even any clicking. After it sits, it may start again. We replaced the battery, but the car wouldn't start again. Same symptoms... No clicking, or anything like that. Nissan dealer says the battery is fine and if it happens again, replace the battery because maybe it's faulty.
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I have a 91 Nissan sentra. The seat belt warning light and buzzer like to go off for no reason. Sometimes this lasts my entire trip, 30 minutes of constant buzzing. I have narrowed it down to the front passenger automatic latch.( it slides across the top of the roof and latches in the back.) I have tried every thing I have heard to try from unplugging the wires under the seat to spraying wd-40 into the latch. Nothing has worked. I am just short of ripping out the dash board to cut the wires to the buzzer.
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I have a 2006 Sentra that over the last few months on a few occasions (3-4) when driving on the highway would jolt into the next gear.
Last week, the car simply died on me waiting at a light and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. The car did not start again for about a minute. It did. When I drove it home, the car accelerated slightly on its own into the driveway. I took it into the local Nissan dealer. They found no error codes of any kind. They recommended a whole bunch of things that more or less needed to get done anyways but the pertient one is that they flushed and refilled the transmission fluid and replaced the filter.
I'm pretty sure this isn't a transmission issue but... not ruling anything out. Hoping it is not a transmission issue.
So I took the car home. A week of local light driving with no issues. I got on the highway yesterday to go to a meeting and the RPMs start fluctuating wildly from 1500-3500. I got off the highway and the car stalled out on me three times on the 10 mile or so drive back to the dealership. It did start on those occassions right away.
They claim they've had multiple people test driving the car over the last couple of days and no one is experiencing what I did. Still no error codes anywhere.
I absolutely do not feel safe driving this thing on the highway at this point. What do I do? They seem to be at the end of their diagnostic capabilities and short of randomly repairing every single part on a ten year old car that might be causing this seems... silly.
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Someone told me this car does not have a filter. Is that right?
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I ran over a chunk of ice at about 15mph. I could definitely hear it scraping the undercarriage. Now, when the engine is on (regardless of RPM), there's a hissing sound (like air escaping, or a belt sliding against something) coming from the back right side of the undercarriage. What I damaged? No smoke, no leaks... just the hissing sound.
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So recently my service engine light came on suddenly and I saw my tachometer acting a little weird along with my car vibrating slightly at stop lights. I know I should get this checked out because it's better to nip this problem in the bud early on before the problem worsens or starts to affect other parts of the car. My questions are,
What the problem is? I've read online that sometimes the service engine soon light comes on because of small issues that can be resolved by e.g. tightening the gas cap etc etc or it may be something that requires professional attention. I don't want to have to see a mechanic if the issue can be resolved by myself.
I've had terrible experiences with mechanics, what often happens is that I get charged for work done and the problem isn't solved. This happened once with an individual mechanic and I'll probably look at certified dealers such as Mossy Nissan. But that being said, the reviews of all the Nissan certified service centres in my area have horrible ratings and reviews so even going to them is a hesitation for me.
How can I protect myself from getting ripped off? What information should I ask for or tell them? Do i ask them for the codes when they run a diagnostic test and what should I expect to get charged for and what should I expect not to get charged for.
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My speedometer shows 15 mph at idle stop in Drive gear. Sometimes it fluctuates simultaneously with the engine. Then tachometer also fluctuates. I took it to the dealer, and they wanted to replace an instrument cluster (under the dashboard), but I declined. If it is a cluster, why does it fluctuate with the engine and tachometer? I took it to the shop, but it did not do it then.
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45000 miles on this sentra we purchased used from local dealer. Now and then car lurches or hiccups, no real pattern. CEl has come on, dealer reads code and makes repairs but problem never solved. One code which came on was code for vent control valve, dealer said not to worry, cel went off but problem remains. One day, car stopped responding to gas, engine running but not engaged, pulled over, turned off engine, restarted and it was fine for rest of trip. Catalytic converter replaced after cel was on last summer. Side note, radio turns off now and then for no reason, maybe there is some electrical problem. Recently cel came on, code was for crankshaft position sensor, problem unresolved.
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My 2002 Nissan Sentra's check engine light keeps coming on. It came on about three weeks ago, and our mechanic replaced an oxygen sensor. Two or three days later, it came back on. He figured the first sensor was faulty, and replaced it with another. The light came on as I was driving away from the place. The mechanic replaced some of the wires. And now, a week after that, the light came on again.
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I have a manual 2000 Nissan Sentra with 101,000 miles. The Service Engine Soon light stays on. I was told it was an vacuum leak or mass air flow or basically the mixture of oxygen is off. (I already had one mass air flow put in a few years ago.) I have been ignoring the message. We went camping and drove twice to 9,000 feet. No problems on road at all. The car runs great. In fact we got 35 mpg on the trip. Am I possibly hurting the car by ignoring the message?
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I recently had my "Service Engine Light" come on, Sunday to be exact. I went through my normal procedure of checking the fuel cap and drove several times to no avail. So today I ran by Autozone where I got the P0302 code. Now I realize I could go in for a tune up, but I'm a college student and just spent all my money on books so I'm looking for some DIY solutions before I lay down any large amounts of money. Where to start. As for a bit more background, I filled my car up with gas on Friday, the light came on Sunday and the car will shake on initial idle of the car.
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Curious. When I first start the car and I'm driving then come to a stop I feel engine rumble or shake. It only does it the first time I stop. Car is under warranty but I'm curious as to why it is. Also it doesn't do it all the time so that's another problem with bringing it to the dealer.
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I live in CA and recently my car passed the smog test, but failed inspection because the check engine light on the board was on. When the diagnostic test was done, it said there's a problem with the catalytic converter. It's so frustrating because the car's emissions are within limits. , I was thinking... Is there a way to get the catalytic converter to run cleaner without replacing it? If it can run long enough to pass the diagnostic test, my car could pass inspection.
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Since I have gotten my Sentra 2003 I have had issues with it. This past year my thermostat went about 6 weeks ago. I noticed that when my car would idle the engine would rev. Over the weekend I drove on the highway for 2 hours. When I started slowing the speed don I noticed that I could press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor without any resistance. It came back up. I rolled into the toll plaza and stopped to pay the toll at which point I could shift the shifter into a gear but the car would not catch. No movement. I think my clutch mechanism needs to be fully replaced as the car has 115000 miles with the original still intact. IS that most likely the case and what am I looking at for the cost?
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I own a 2009 Nissan Sentra with a CVT transmission. It has about 65,000 miles. During the warmer months, my wife and I have both experienced times while driving (usually for more than 2 hours) when the engine would lose power while going up a hill. After doing some reading we learned that this was common in Sentra and Rogue models with CVT transmissions. Apparently the transmission fluid heats up, boils, and foams. The foam triggers a sensor that cuts power to the engine. Once the fluid's temperature decreases the car performs as it should.
We have visited the dealership and even have a case number with Nissan consumer affairs. After many appointments and phone calls, the only action taken was decreasing the level of transmission fluid. This action was approved by Nissan. This has worked a little but the issue still occasionally persists. For the record, neither my wife nor I are expecting this to drive like a race car. We'd just like it work correctly. I know Nissan has extended the warranty on this and many CVT transmissions.
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