My car stalls repeatedly while I am driving. I quickly put it in neutral and start it again. This can happen 4 or five times on a 30 minute trip, or sometimes, not at all. Someone said it could be the Mass Air Flow Sensor or Meter. Tried a new one and the car is still stalling.
View 4 RepliesThe first time I turned on the AC this year, the car ran like normal for about 5 minutes. After that, I was coming to a stop light, I put the car in neutral, and it shut off. I could only get the car running again after I turned off the air. Then it would shutter very hard while idling. So far I have change the fuel filter and put cleaning stuff in the gas tank to clean the fuel injectors. When I tried running it again, it ran for about 10 minutes and stalled again. The car is a 1996 Nissan sentra. Check engine light doesn't come on, and the car has had regular oil changes. There is 191,000 miles on it.
View 7 RepliesAfter driving for about 15 minutes the car starts to lurch. regardless of the speed. it gets worse if and when i accelerate. If i rev up the engine, it feels like a lose in power and also like something in the engine is skipping. I changed fuel filter under the hood and the strainer on the fuel pump (not the fuel pump) thinking they might have been clogged up and the engine wasn't getting enough fuel.
View 2 Replies2009 Nissan Sentra automatic transmission. So I leave out early in the morning, about 6:00am and when I start the car (heat and AC start up with the car), it starts just fine, runs for about 2 minutes, and then stalls. When it stalls, all the indicator lights come on. If I during start up I make sure to turn off the heat/AC, then it will start and stay on, but the moment I turn the fan on (even if the AC is turned off) the car stalls (this is true in park or in drive, although I have not tried while the car was moving in drive). Tried running the car for about 20 minutes and same thing. Now here is the perplexing part, if I let the car sit or leave out later, like after 7:30am, then the car starts fine, there is an audible clunk when I turn on the AC/heater but the car does not stall. I've had the car to the dealership who tried resetting the idle but can't get the car to do this there as they open at 8am and of course "the computer shows nothing". The AC was replaced about a month ago, but not sure if that is related or not.
View 6 RepliesI've replaced my starter motor 3 times this year. OK - I can live with that. But now it's also stalling. I'm not confortable driving a car in Los Angeles traffic that could die at any time. Mechanics can find nothing wrong except the starter motor needs to be replaced again.
View 4 Replies2004 Nissan sentra 36,000 miles, stalls when it rains after I stop for a red light or a STOP sign. While pumping the gas, I have to wait a minute or more before it accelerates and moves. It is an automatic. I had a mechanic check the spark plugs and sensor codes. All checked out okay. Car drives fine in dry weather, no stalling. Bought used from out of town.Mechanic told me to bring it in when it rains. But that's not safe, because it will stall. Could moisture, humidity, or air pressure affect sensors?
View 4 RepliesMy friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 Nissan Sentra GXE 1.6L automatic. It fails to start intermittently. It does not matter if the engine is hot or cold. It does not turn over and it seems the whole car has lost power (no engine warning lights, no power locks, etc).
I have taken the battery to be tested and it comes out "good." Once I put the battery back in, the car starts and power is restored to the entire car. The starter (1-month-old) and alternator (1-year-old) test out good also. I changed the inhibitor relay, but the problem occurred again 2 weeks later.
I also noticed one time when I attempted to jump the car with the negative jumper cable attached to the engine block of the dead car or to the negative battery terminal of the dead car, the car would just click (as though attempting to turn over). However, when I connected the jumper cable to the exposed part of the dead car's negative battery cable (right next to the battery cable connector), it starts.
1996 Nissan Sentra GXE, 147,000 miles. Automatic transmission. When I start moving after starting the car, I hear an ominously loud single clunk coming from the area around the right rear wheel. I start the engine, no clunk. I release the parking brake, no clunk. I put the car into gear, no clunk. I take my foot off the brake and begin to move, CLUNK! And that's the last I hear of it while I'm driving. There are no rattles, shakes, or other problems as I am driving. I can stop for a traffic light, and there's no clunk when I start moving again. Shift into reverse, and there's no clunk. Hit a pothole, nothing.
It may be worth mentioning that I have a huge hole in the right side of my muffler (seriously - I can stick a few fingers into it) which I am not going to repair. And that is because in five weeks I am going to be buying a new car. I've arranged time off from work to do all the running around from bank to dealer to insurance agent to DMV, and I'll have enough cash at the ready for a large down payment. So I am very reluctant to have any work done on this car. So what it comes down to is can I 'baby' the Sentra as much as possible and use it as little as possible over the next few weeks, or am I in danger of losing a wheel (or something) at any moment?
I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
Last fall I had several oil leaks on my car repaired as well as replacing the fuel pump and alternator. I also had some welding done on the tailpipe. Once the weather turned colder and I started using the heater, I noticed what I think is a oil-type odor inside the car after a few minutes or more of driving. I roll the windows down to clear out the odor and after that there is no more odor, until one of the next times I drive my car again.
It doesn't smell like exhaust fumes. I have had the exhaust system checked out by a garage who specializes in exhaust systems and they couldn't find any problems with the exhaust system. This problem doesn't happen every time I drive, but almost every time. What might be going on? I haven't noticed any oil drippings on the floor of my garage.
I purchased my 2001 Nissan Sentra about 4 weeks ago and the check engine light came on about a week into owning it. I scheduled an appointment to get it checked, but continued to drive it without issue until one day I started it and as soon as I began driving it lost power. The more gas I gave it, the worse it got. It just wouldn't let me go anywhere. So I parked the car and let it sit for about an hour. Then when I went back to show someone else the problem, the car started and drove again like nothing was wrong. Since then, this has been happening frequently. I will start the car, it will spit and sputter and lose power, I will turn the car off and wait a while, it will start up again no problem.
My local mechanic told me the computer was throwing a bunch of different codes, including the one for the catalytic converters. They also told me that since the problem seems electrical (the car seems to reset itself when I turn it off) it could be that the computer is going and that’s what needs to be replaced. I've taken the car back to the dealership where I bought it, they replaced the oxygen sensors, thinking that would fix the problem. I just got the car back yesterday and drove it for about 60 miles without any problems, then that check engine light came back on and the same old problem is back. My question is, how do I know if the problem is mechanical or electrical? What if I replace the catalytic converters when it’s actually the computer that was the problem all along or vice versa?
I had to have my transmission replaced after i lent my car to my dad who then hit a massive pothole and destroyed my transmission along with tire and rim. Got my car back and while driving home, I noticed my temperature gauge didn't move. Got home, parked the car and let it run and no movement from the gauge at all. Unfortunately, I retrieved my car shortly before the shop closed so I can't call them until tomorrow but what this could possibly be?
View 2 RepliesThe car has always had an issue with randomly stalling and dieing. It could be coming to a stop, driving down the st or just in idle. No warning, usually except once in a while the RPMs will drop pretty low before it cuts out. Other times it will "stutter" if you wonna call it that while I'm driving rev up and down around 2k.
Now while it's doing that, I noticed if I give it more gas it'll act like it's gonna cut out until I let off the pedal then it revs back up and sometimes if I catch it at the high point and hit the gas again that will occasional "catch it" and it will run okay for a bit. Anyway - recently I found that if I just let the car warm up before I drive it seems to run great. If I just start and go, it dies as soon as I put it in gear.
Note: Maintenance up to par, no engine light, don't smell gas, new filter, MAF, IAC, no vacuum leaks I can find.
I have a 1991 Nissan Sentra with 151,427 miles. The past several months I will be driving along and suddenly the car will stop working and it won't restart right away. The following parts have been replaced within the past 2 years: 2nd transmission, new starter, new alternator, new fuel pump, new battery, rack & pinion steering, and a complete tune-up just last fall (2012). What would cause my car to suddenly lose power when I'm driving? I want my Nissan to come back to life!
View 5 RepliesCurious. When I first start the car and I'm driving then come to a stop I feel engine rumble or shake. It only does it the first time I stop. Car is under warranty but I'm curious as to why it is. Also it doesn't do it all the time so that's another problem with bringing it to the dealer.
View 9 RepliesMy 96 Buick Regal acts like it is out of gas after driving for about 10 min. Takes awhile to start, then runs rough if at all. After it sits, it runs fine again for about 10 min. I changed fuel filter, fuel pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator.
View 4 RepliesI have Nissan Maxima 1996, everything is good as far as I know until recently it started stopping shutting off on the road, sometimes when am going at high speed it gradually decreases speed and come to stop.
View 1 RepliesSoon after I bought this car, the water pump began giving out. It made grinding noises and leaked coolant. I replaced it with a new Bosch water pump. This water pump is driven off of the timing chain.
A week after replacing the pump, the NEW pump started going out.
What would cause the pump to go keep going bad, so quickly after replacement? Could it be a timing chain issue? Should I have bought a more expensive pump? Would replacing the timing chain tensioner make a difference too?
So this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
I have a 98 Nissan Sentra every now and then when I get in it to start it I get nothing but if I hold it or turn it to the off position a few times it will start, what this could be....
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