Nissan - Rogue :: 2009 - Shuddering After Applied The Brakes
Nov 5, 2014
We bought a used 2009 Nissan Rogue about a year ago. According to the previous owner, all services were done at the local Nissan dealer.
About 4000 km after we bought it, my wife noticed that it was shuddering after she applied the brakes. So I took it to the dealer... and they said that the front calipers were seized and needed to be replaced. It only had 82,000 km or so (51,000 miles) on it then. The previous owners paid for the repair, which included new calipers, pads and rotors.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I was told by the independent garage that we take all of our vehicles to that one of the rear calipers had seized and needed to be replaced. The vehicle only has 104,000 km on it (about 65,000 miles). Again, the caliper had to be replaced, along with all pads and rotors on the rear end. When I commented to him that we've replaced 3 out of 4 calipers, he said that the other rear caliper looked like it had been replaced too.
My question to the group is - should calipers that have been serviced properly seize like that? I'm of the opinion that they shouldn't if they're being checked regularly and serviced properly.
Am I correct? Or not? I've owned a lot of cars in my lifetime, and this is the first time I've had seized calipers on any of them.
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2010 Nissan rogue (42,500 miles) When the a/c is on and I'm stopped in traffic, with my foot on the brake the car shudders. There are times I feel like it will stall. I've had it to the dealer several times and they've told me the compressor puts a lot of strain on the engine. I have been in many other vehicles small and large and do not notice this.
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My 2010 SL rogue's brakes seem to be extremely spongy/floaty. When stopping I need to push the brakes pedal all the way down before it'll come to a complete stop. It feels like I'm pushing air out. Just got her back from bthe repair shop, and had been driving a rent a car(2015 Ford focus) and the difference between the braking is night/day.
Checked the brakes fluid and its just a hair under max line. Was under the impression that the break pads were replaced a year ago. Best obvious answer I can figure out(google) is possibly air in the brake lines?
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Three times over a period of six weeks my 09Nissan Rogue has turned off during high speed driving. Shuts right down with no warning or sputtering. Last time was on Mass Pike with no break down lane and cars flying all around at 75MPH - scary as all.... I had to roll over to right lane, park and restart, which it wouldnt do right away- a number of attempts and it started up and I drove away.
Brought right to dealer- and at dealer last few days and they cant pinpoint problem- have done numerous test drives. They have checked computer and it indicates no issues. They have called Nissan and reported that they dont have a case of a similar issue. 70, 000 miles, just completely serviced, plenty of gas, newer battery in electronic keyfob- IT's a mystery! I am scared to drive the car.
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I have a 2009 nissan rogue that when driven for 30 minutes or more with the ac on leaves my clothing smelling like exhaust (faint smell). I have had the dealership look at the car and they cannot find anything. We have replaced the interior cabin air filter and I still find the smell. this is not something that I notice while driving until I have been in the car for 30 or so minutes. My wife also notices the smell in her clothes after driving and now won't drive the Nissan. We are running the car with maximum AC turned on with the air recirculation button on as well. SO, theoretically, no outside air should be getting in but it still seems like our clothes smell like we have been in a traffic jam with the windows down after 30 minutes of driving.
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My car sounds like it's dragging something but when I look under it there's nothing there. The sound it makes is comparable to the sound a snow plow makes as its plowing the road. The sound is constant but gets worse when I brake. What could be the cause?
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I recently purchased a used 2009 Kia Rio. I really am enjoying the car. While there is nothing fancy to it, it gets me to and from work and that's basically what I need. However, when I apply the brakes, there is a high-pitched squeal that is made until the car is almost at a stop. It does this I would say 90% of the time. The brakes work just fine and are in fact very sensitive. I've tried researching this online and it seems a lot of people have this problem because of the type of brake pad used. The dealership I purchased it from is more than an hour away from my home, so I am reluctant to drive down there if there really is nothing that will be done.
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I have a 2012 FX4, 5.0. The dealer tuned the front rotors and replaced the pads at 19k because of a bad vibration when brakes were applied. Now at 45k, the same thing is starting to happen again. I am pretty sure it is not my driving because my 2001 F150 4x4 had 162,000 miles on it and never had a rotor off of it or turned and was on the 3rd set of pads when I traded it on the 2012.
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My wife just called on her way to work in the middle of another winter storm and stated that the AWD light on our Nissan Rogue will illuminate and then go off. For those unfamiliar with the vehicle while stopped or in park you just push a button and the AWD system is engaged (a light on the switch goes on to indicate it is on). Unfortunately, the light or AWD goes out randomly. I contacted our local Nissan garage and have an appointment next week. They say the light/AWD should stay on.
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I bought my 06 Corolla LE last week and just started hearing a nasty squeaking sound whenever I applied the brakes. I took it to the dealer today and 4 hours later he calls me and tells me that he had to readjust my back brakes and lube them up and it should be fine..About a half hour into driving the car around town I start hearing this noise again. Now he's telling me to bring back in the morning to see what the issue is.
My question is besides the brake pads and rotors which were checked by another mechanic that said they were good what the hell could be the issue?
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A couple of months ago the front driver side of my Sonata started creaking whenever I applied the break. I took it to a local mechanic as well as Hyundai service and after a couple of thousand dollars, it still makes the noise . Both upper and bottom control arms were changed, rotors, pads, brakes, bearings, strut mount, and some other minor stuff that I can't recall...its loud and ANNOYING....
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My husband was driving our 2013 nissan rogue and the engine light came on. Shortly afterwards the car began to smoke and stopped working. Oil is leaking out of the car and the oil pan needs to be replaced (looks like he hit something because the oil pan has a dent in it). Also, the engine rattles when turned on. They said that I might need a new engine which is over 4000 dollars. They said I can replace the oil pan and get an oil change to see if that works. Is it likely that my engine is dead? He said it could just be rattling because of the lack of oil but he won't know until we replace the oil and oil pan.
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I have problem with left front brakes corolla. When I changed the router it was fine, but after few month, during down hill when I apply brake, right side make lot of noise. I cleaned pads and pin are good. It happens only on right side, down hill is problem.
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Here are my issues.
1. In drive under load during braking especially when the AC is on the car shakes. I can put it in to neutral and it works but when in drive or reverse especially with AC the car shakes. (not just a little bit)
2. The RPMs are settling around 400-500 so the stuttering makes since.
3. Feels like everything effects my Idle RPM speed (breaks, steering, AC, power windows lol!)
I am thinking possible fixes from research
1. ECU Reset with everything on AC/Lights/ Im planning on mashing on the breaks 2 see if the extra power usage work.
2. Throttle Body cleaning
3. Alternator could be bad
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I have a 2011 Nissan Rogue that has lurched (or misfired?) about a handful of times. It only does it at highway speeds shortly after I've merged onto the highway, usually around 50-60mph. There is a loud thunk and it feels, for about a split second, that the car has stalled out. No warning lights come on, RPMs don't rev, and car resumes driving just fine after and hasn't yet repeated it on the same drive. It is very cold where we are, but the highway is at least 5-10mins from my house, so car usually has warmed up by the time we've gotten there. I've taken it in twice now to be looked at and neither times has it done this on their test drive. The shop yesterday didn't see any diagnostic codes either, so they didn't even know where to begin looking at possible issues...only suggestion was that I bring it in again after it happens again...I know next to nothing about cars, but it surprises me that they won't even check various possible issues to see if anything is out of whack, loose, etc...
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So originally I was told it was my front brakes going bad, which was the case. To address the issue, I replaced the rotors and pads awhile back and the noise disappeared for a bit. Fast forward a month or so ago and I hear an on-and-off squeaking noise when the brakes are applied. It does not happen every time. Usually when I ease onto the brakes to a slow stop.
Figuring it could be my pads going bad for whatever reason, I decided to check my brake pads and rotors again. No odd signs of damage on the rotors and by the looks of it there was still plenty of pad left. I then sprayed some brake clean assuming it could be dust but there wasn't much.
I have not touched the drums yet but I'm thinking it could possibly be the drums or a bad bearing? The car is a 2012 with 38k miles which is the reason I'm doubtful of it being a bad wheel bearing. What could it be?
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So my car stereo (center console) had been cutting in and out at random times, spoke to a tech from the garage and it seems like a lose connection is really really unlikely, that most likely the stereo is just on its way out.
So left with the option of replacing it. Is this a big task to replace/not worth it and simply go without a stereo?
It's a Nissan Rogue 2010,.
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My 2010 Nissan Rogue was awesome until the clicks, squeaks, rattles, etc popped up after the first year. I've been slowly figuring them out, but one remaining problem is the squeaking plastic door panels. If I lean my arm on it or or leg against it, it creaks in many places. Going over bumps it'll do it on it's own. Is there anything I can do to remedy this? It is out of warranty as I have about 40K on it and they said that wouldn't qualify anyhow when it was under warranty as it was "cosmetic".
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I have a pedal pulsation, steering wheel shimmy, and pull to the right when the brakes are applied in my truck. It is a 2009 F250 4x4 gas V8. I just replaced the pads, rotors, and calipers on the front and that's when the problem started. It definitely gets worse with speed too. I replaced the calipers because the right one had seized up and the left one looked to be on the way. There are no odd noises and the wheel bearing doesn't feel like there is any play in it. What this could be?
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i buy a used car from a friend. when I push the pedal to accelerate from still(RPM 1000-2000), i can hear clearly there is a noise from front and the bottom of the car (same source). It is a noise obviously generated by metal clashing with each other. But such noise doesn't appear when the car hit big holes on roads or when the RPM is higher than 2000RPM. the car goes smoothly and quietly on highway, but the noise worries me.
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I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue and I bought it used and it has worked great until recently. The issue I have is after 1-2 hours of driving at a consistent speed of 70 MPH it will stop accelerating past 2.5-3 RPMs(x1000). When it started happening, I was able to pull over, turn the car off for 10-15 minutes, and it won't happen again until my next trip.
I can't seem to recreate the issue except after going on a road trip. It's kind of scary when trying to go up hills and when I slow down when I come into smaller towns and get to a stoplight, I stop, wait until the light changes, and when I try and accelerate again it's jumpy and doesn't respond for 3-5 seconds which can be annoying to the person behind me.
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