Nissan - Quest :: 2001 - Won't Start After Replacing Fuel Pump And Filter
Jun 14, 2015
Replaced fuel pump and filter on our 2001 Nissan Quest. It started up for a few minutes but once it got hot it sputtered out. We sprayed some starter fluid in it. Still nothing.
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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I have a 2005 Nissan Quest and the odometer area which also displays the fuel gauge fades in and out. random numbers fade away and reappear. Fuel level bars also fade and reappear. What could cause this? It is just old or is there another cause?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 96,000 miles and a brand new 2015 Hyundai Elantra.
It had been randomly sputtering for a couple of weeks before this and I thought that the fuel filter/pump was going out. So, I replaced that and when I turn the ignition on gas squirts out of the fuel pump so I know that is working. I then replaced the spark plugs because I don't think they had ever been replaced, but it still won't start.
When I turn the key everything sounds good, but it just won't start. I am trying to avoid having it towed to the shop until I exhaust the ability to fix it myself.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Quest that vibrates starting at about 60 mph. I have balanced the wheels more than once. I have had repairs to the suspension. Now I notice that it vibrates only when accelerating or going up hill - not when the foot is off the gas pedal. What repairs should I accept or reject?
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our 2001 Nissan Quest with 201,000 miles has recently started having some strange issues. The speedometer will suddenly drop to zero, and after a few seconds, come back up and work correctly. A couple of times, this was associated with the engine "chugging" and topping out at about 50 mph. If I stop, it will resume and run normally. I would love for this car to last me 2 more years.
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Van will not start, battery has been tested and has a charge. Have tried to jump start the van and that will get the electrical system working but will not turn over the engine. I've had issues with the security system in the past not allowing the car to start, but past fixes fail to work this time.
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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After replacing the fuel filter, O2 sensor, and checking plugs and wires and the rotor, my 91 toyota corolla is still sputtering and its driving me nuts.
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What sensors etc. besides the mass air flow sensor have to be working in order for the fuel pump to run? I get no fuel from the fuel pump even though the engine is cranking. There must be other relays, fuses, or sensors I can check even though all fuses I can see are ok. How can I check the EFI relay to tell if it is ok?
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Santa fe 2.7litre 2004 240000km... My santa fe won't start, after check we found no power at the fuel pump. we change pump, we found a bad contact at the remote starter connection. we decide to cut the wires of remote starter. after the car start and ride 1 day, stop with check engine, towing
We take off the remote starter and disconnect all wire of this remote starter. The car start and stop. After that bizarre problem, the park light stay open, and the window can be up and don't with no key in the ignition!!!!
We check fuse relay etc, all wire of the old remote starter and we take off battery and rebuilt the ground. We still have the same problem; when we tried to start at acc, everything seam normal but the wipers run at off position and when we turn the key for starting , wiper stop , radio close.
Like we have a ground problem. We change the ignition little baril now we think the computer is maybe dead. I double check all remote starter wire and every thing seem ok !!!!!
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02 Santa Fe was recently in a minor accident that popped the airbags. Engine won't start now. Where do i find the reset for the fuel pump?
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It has been a while. My 2000 2wd 5.4 Ex has developed a issue and I'm going to say it is the fuel pump. It was right before Christmas and I went out and the truck would not start. I panicked and remembered the relay. It pressed it, it clicked and off I went. Last week I was leaving work and it did the same thing but the relay was not tripped.
I got under it and rapped the tank a couple times with a rubber mallet and it fired up just fine. Went out this morning, super cold out and nothing. Rapped on the tank, nothing. Took the other car to work and came home, rapped on it again and nothing. The fuses are good but I'm sure it is the pump because I was able to hit the tank and start it.
My question is, any write up on removing the tank or a video? I like to see what i'm up against before I start to pull it. The bad thing for me is I have a little over half a tank of gas in it and no place to put it. This is going to be fun.
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I have a 1999 Nissan Frontier, 4cy, 5speed. About a week ago, it began stumbling sporadically so my first thought was that maybe a spark plug had fouled. I changed the spark plugs, and the problem persisted. At this point, I begin thinking maybe it's a fuel issue. I went to Advance and bought Lucas Oil fuel system treatment and added it to the 1/2 tank of gas I had at the time. Going home from Advance it ran great. No stumbling. However, it started again the next day. I ran out that 1/2 tank of fuel and filled up again and it is still doing the same thing. It idles a little rough, and stumbles while going up through the RPM range between shifts. Once I get up to highway speed in 5th gear, it seems to do okay. Should I add more fuel injector cleaner or maybe SeaFoam? Could it possibly be a clogged fuel filter?
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2003 Toyota Matrix with 217,000 miles (most on a rural mail route). Check engine light stays on with readings for multiple misfires, all four coils (which have all been replaced) and just replaced fuel pump. Gas mileage has plummeted.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Quest. At 58MPH a vibration begins and shakes enough to make faster driving unpleasant. Have replaced motor mounts, all four wheel bearings, all four brakes, front rotors, rear drums, struts, rear shocks, tie rod ends, ball joints, steering rack, control arms and all 4 tires which have been balanced and checked several times. All of these parts had been worn and in need of replacement, the vehicle has 170K. The only thing I have not repaired is the rear stabilizer bar link bushings. The van drives beautifully at 55mph or lower. Has been a real puzzle and continues to be...Have noticed that when there is weight in the rear, or going uphill the vibration is subdued and even disappears...
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I have an 04 Nissan Quest and my AC has been going in and out. When I drive the van for a while the AC will just suddenly stop working and then may come back on spontaneously a bit later. It can go in and out a few time in a 30-minute drive.
So, what was causing that I thought I'd try topping up the coolant which I don't think has been done to this van yet. I go buy the recharge kit at Advance. I follow all the instructions and attach the gauge and it tells me the PSI on the low side (I double checked) was over 100psi.
According to many places on the internet this means the compressor isn't running. But I'm getting cold air. So what would cause the compressor to not work (or the 100psi reading) but still allow me to be getting cold air? What to try next or what may be going on here?
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The A/C went out on my 2000 Nissan Quest. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find the problem and recommended not replacing the it because of the age and value of the car. However, the defroster doesn't work so it's almost impossible to see when it rains because the windshield has so much moisture on the inside. There is nothing blowing on it. Opening the windows did not work.
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 4.0 SOHC engine, I have had some cold start problems. I cleaned the IAC and the problem went away for a few months and then came back. Two days ago the temps got very cold and it would not start at all, I re-cleaned the IAC and still no start. I replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump and engine started right away. Now I have a rough idle, bad skip and bad exhaust odor. I am still thinking IAC but I am concerned that the aftermarket fuel pump is pumping to high pressure or that I may have crimped the return line. I have driven about 30 miles hoping the computer would make adjustments, still runs rough and the check engine light has not come on.
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I have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
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I need to fix this since it keeps hitting 110 in tx.
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