Nissan - Primera :: 1992 - Chugs Especially Evident When At Low Speed Of Idling
Jan 18, 2011
I drive a 1992 Nissan Primera wagon 2.0 slx, automatic transmission. Generally the car has been the picture of reliablility. Just lately it "chugs," especially evident when I'm at low speed of idling. This morning, as I idled for few minutes, the rpm's fluctuated between 1000 and 2000 rpms, as if I was depressing the accelerator.
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I drive a 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx wagon, automatic. The engine starts at normal rpm, about 1500 then, with my foot off the accelerator, it begins to rise until, after 3 minutes or so it's at 2500 and rising. I should also point out that recently the car's been overheating after a short drive. I'm going to flush the coolant system and replace the fluid. Are these two faults related?
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I recently picked up a 2001 Nissan sentra. This car sat since around 2010. I guess the previous owner had a lot of work done by the dealer a year or so ago and it looks it, brake pads etc. are brand new, a couple other things look new but he's not a car guy in the slightest and can't find the receipt nor will the dealer give him one due to computer system change and I actually tried with them myself, that's correct.
Anyway, the check engine light is on and bringing it home we had reports of black smoke out the exhaust. It also felt like it wanted to stall at times when stopped but it never did. Well, I ran it a while and at times it seemed like it wanted to clear up, at others it didn't but the light stayed on and what not. I scanned it and it claimed the O2 sensor 1 bank 2 was bad so I replaced it.
It didn't make any difference so I cleaned the Mass Air flow sensor. Again no good it's the same. Here's the funny thing though, it's great first thing in the morning usually. As the day goes on and as we drive it, it gets worse. What I can try/change next?
I'm almost leaning on electrical issue where it gets worse as the day goes on and dew dries off. I'm new to Nissan's, I like the car and really want to work this issue out. I did replace the fuel pump when I got the car, and have run sea foam through and actually on that tank of gas it ran pretty good but that's worked itself out now.
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2003 astro - misses and chugs and clunks until i get up to 40 miles per hr...
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2005 6.0l - codes are P0261 Cylinder 1 injector circuit low. PO263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/balance and PO270 cylinder 4 circuit low. Ficm still reads 48 plus or minus .5. What is really puzzling is how changing the oil cooler and the EGR cooler would create these problems. Did I screw up the injector harness. Vehicle does not smoke either white or black. Low idle miss and at 55 it chugs once up to speed. Don't want to go Ford if I can avoid them. Whats going on.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
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My Dad has a 1992 Toyota Pick-up with a 22RE engine it is a 2 wheel drive automatic. The truck stopped running while idling, he did code tests on it and they came up clear. He can get it to run on propane but not on gas. He did change all the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and spark plug wires.
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1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
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have a 1992 nissan 240sx; it shakes when i started the engine or when it idles or @ a complete stop. runs well on freeway & was able to drive home. mechanic thinks it's probably cylinders not firing well over phone prognosis. it also sounds like there may be a leak. it stalled a few times & had to restart the car. no problems restarting. have not brought it in for diagnosis.
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My 92 nissan truck 4x4 won't move. engine runs fine but after a couple stream crossings and parking it I can't get it to roll. It happened a few years ago and a mech. said it was rust lock in the brakes?
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Our mechanic is stumped. The Frontier runs hot when idling. The clutch fan and thermostat have been replaced. The radiator has been flushed. When you are driving or you turn off the A/C, the temp goes down. The next suggestion is to replace the radiator, but I'm already hundreds into this so I hate to do anything else unless I'm pretty sure it is going to fix it.
We do know that the catalytic converter needs replacing. Could this have anything to do with it?
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I have a 1998 Pathfinder with around 160,000 miles on it. This week it has had some issues with stalling when I am idling. The first time it happened, I was at a stoplight and it cut out 3 times and I was able to start it back up and drive the rest of the way home (40 miles) with no problem. The next time it started stalling out I was at a stoplight and was able to put it in neutral and rev the engine and it stayed on. I have a 45 mile commute to and from work every day, and I don't want this to happen when I am on the highway going 65mph.
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Just bought this car last week. My last car was a 2011 Maxima and before that a Murano so I am use to the CVT bu this cars shifting seems to be off.
I have noticed the front end rattles a little when idling. Also there is a noticeable violent shift/shake a certain points when it shifts.....usually when going about 20 and stepping on the gas fast. It does not happen all the time and that is what I'm worried about because I am bringing it for service and I'm sure they will say "we don't feel anything". Believe me something is not right. I think the dealer would have to drive the car for a while to experience it. It happened bad when I went up a hill this morning.
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The car crank up normally, but when idling it misfires on #3 cylinder. When start to drive it will drive at 45 mph at full revolution but when I stop at a light the engine begins to vibrate and shakes the entire car. When moving off again, it continues to vibrate and hesitate and will not get up back in speed 25-30 mlp and now start to backfire in to the manifold. While stepping on the gas it also makes a popping sound. If I try to get the speed up any higher it will violently makes a popping sound and backfiring constantly into the manifold and struggles to go. The engine is also getting very hot although the engine gage said it normal and not overheating. If the car is sitting in a grassy area while idling it will completely burn dry the grass underneath.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Altima. When I am sitting at a light, there is sometimes a shudder that runs through the vehicle. If I put it in park while at a light, it doesn't happen. Also, when I'm accelerating, there is a sound like a rattling growl coming from the front right of the vehicle.
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1995 pickup truck 2.4 liter 4 cal 4WD. I have a new problem- I drove out to a favorite spot in the mountains (up a dusty road) and when I got to the end of the road my truck was suddenly idling REALLY rough. I was able to drive it home and it runs "OK" as long as you stay on the gas (I say OK but it does want to die and especially wants to die after it warms up and then harder to restart until it cools)- as soon as you let off the gas the idle is on the extreme side of rough. It did not act like a fuel filter has historically (hesitate when giving gas), but I had a filter so I replaced the fuel filter anyway.
I also pulled the air duct work and cleaned it all out, put a new air filter in and used CRC MAF sensor cleaner on the MAF sensor. I did pour in a Chevron fuel system cleaner but it would likely take a tank full at least to work and it does not run good enough to run a tank full through. I put in all new plugs (gapped) and checked resistance on the plug wires and cap- all seems to be acceptable. I checked all the vacuum lines and did replace a couple that were dry and crumbly. I am now at a loss,
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My car has been vibrating under acceleration since past 2 months. It isn't present in first gear but is evident in second and third gear ,and increases with more acceleration. I replaced engine mounts as they were shot,and got the wheels balanced but the vibration still persists
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I have a 2005 honda element with 115,000 miles. Maintained to Honda specs. I get a vibration felt thru the whole car becoming evident at around 40 mph and dissipating around 50 mph. We have had the mechanic confirm all steering assemblies are tight, ball joints, tie rods etc. It has new brakes and the front rotors were also changed out. The brake job has been reck'd. 2 of the Michelien tires were older and replaced with new ones. All tires have been rebalanced. Rims seems fine.
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The first time I turned on the AC this year, the car ran like normal for about 5 minutes. After that, I was coming to a stop light, I put the car in neutral, and it shut off. I could only get the car running again after I turned off the air. Then it would shutter very hard while idling. So far I have change the fuel filter and put cleaning stuff in the gas tank to clean the fuel injectors. When I tried running it again, it ran for about 10 minutes and stalled again. The car is a 1996 Nissan sentra. Check engine light doesn't come on, and the car has had regular oil changes. There is 191,000 miles on it.
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I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima that dies after sitting and idling for around ten minutes. It also has been dying at stoplights, etc. It runs fine if I get the rpms above 1000. When it dies it restarts but often I have to push the pedal to the floor for a few seconds, then it seems to catch and run as long at the rpms are up. I have taken it to a place and due to it's age they couldn't do a diagnostic check on it. I've had the exhaust system replaced (it needed it), the spark plugs replaced, the coolant temperature sensor replaced but still no luck.
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When I turn on the A/C and am moving the temperature of the car is fine. It's only when I have the A/C on and am idling or moving very slowly that the car starts to overheat. It does not overheat at all, moving or at idle/slow, when the A/C is not on at all. Ok the truth is is that its bloody well hot here in New England and I sweat a gallon of water at every stop sign and stop light!
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