Nissan - Pathfinder :: 2005 - Oil Pressure Gauge Drops To L When Slow Down Or Press On Brakes
Jun 13, 2014
I have a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder that has 79,896 miles on it. I have done a lot of warranty repair to the car (transmission, radiator, oil leaks and other fun stuff). My latest problem is when the car is running for more that 20 minutes and I slow down or press on the brakes my oil pressure gauge drops to L. I have taken it to two dealers one -- said that the 'pressure was in normal range" and could not do a thing and the other fixed a leak in the oil cooler and replaced the seals behind the manifold. This still has not fixed the problem. At this point they feel there is nothing else they can do but this is not normal.
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I have a 2003 Pathfinder SE with 197K miles. Recently I noticed when I hit a bump in the road my speedometer drops to zero and my abs warning light comes on for a matter of seconds and then the speedometer goes back to the speed I am traveling and the abs warning light goes off. Not sure what is going on. No issues with the braking system but am concerned. I brought it a mechanic who could not find anything wrong.
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I'm trying to resolve a nagging brake problem on my 98 Pathfinder. In short, braking power is weaker than it should be, but I do not have sponginess in the brake pedal. I've bled the whole system a few times, and even changed the master cylinder - to no avail.
While performing a few tests lately, I noticed the following behavior: if I drive up a steep hill and start pumping the brake pedal with the left foot while keeping the right foot on the gas (to keep moving uphill), the pedal gets progressively harder to press and braking action diminishes accordingly. If feels a bit like when you switch the engine off with the car still moving (in neutral) and try to brake: as the vacuum in the booster gets expended, the pedal gets harder and braking action diminishes dramatically.
I don't think this is related to the act of going uphill; it's just that this is the only way the engine can develop enough vacuum for the symptom to occur.
This leads me to wonder if I have a vacuum leak somewhere (either in the line or in the booster itself) that only happens at higher vacuum pressures...
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My car recently got a code for the camshaft sensor after my car died in the middle of street and the engine light turned on. I had gotten it replaced. In fact, I had both (left and right) camshaft sensors replaced and we changed out the crankshaft sensor as well. Then, a new problem comes up.
My car does not accelerate as strongly as it used to. In first gear (car is automatic), my car seems to struggle to get in 2nd gear. Imagine the feeling of your car when you keep it in 1st gear (in a stick-shift) and you KNOW that's the point of having to shift into 2nd, but you keep driving anyway. Then, once it does shift gears, my car jolts forward with a big drop in RPM. Imagine the feeling of finally shifting your manual transmission into 2nd gear and feeling that "relief" in the engine as it doesn't seem to struggle anymore. What's worse is that at higher speeds/gear my Pathfinder won't go beyond 4000 RPM. I'm driving at around 65 mph and the car is at 2500 RPM. When it hits 4000 RPM, the RPM just ticks before it and my car stutters back and forth as if I'm playing a beat with my car by hitting the breaks.
An example scenario, I'm driving on the highway and there's a slower car in front of me. I just want to pass the person and be on my way but as I press on the gas, my RPMs don't really increase as it normally would when applying more gas to go faster. Once I do finally get to 4000 RPM, my car starts to stutter or rock back and forth as if hitting an invisible wall. Are there tons of reasons that this could happen?
On the other hand, I tested my car, in park, to see if my engine would rev pass 4000 RPM, and it does. So, the problem presents itself only when I'm driving.
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My 2005 Nissan Pathfinder with approximately 150,000 miles has been losing power while driving. It's pretty scary. The problem first manifested one week ago when it stalled at a stoplight. It restarted after a few panicky moments of frantic key turning. My husband and his identical twin brother took a look under the hood when I got home and discovered the terminal on the battery was loose and had a screw in it to maintain a closer fit. They remedied that by replacing the screw with aluminum foil. Four days later, I'm driving away from a large big-box store, and it loses power again. I got it restarted and drove around back of the store to the tire center. They tested the battery, and declared it "bad".
The battery and the terminals were replaced. Hooray! I was safe. Or so I thought. The very next day, I drove out to the middle of nowhere to go fishing, and it lost power three times. I was an hour away from home and there was no cell phone service. I left the lake before dark and lost power once more on the way home. To recap, the first time it lost power I was stopped at a light, the second time (at the store) I was at a stop sign, the third, fourth, and fifth times I was driving but slowing down for cars in front of me and had to pull over to restart it, and the last time I was driving down hill and the power came back on before the bottom of the hill. A lot of lights come on in the dashboard when it loses power.
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Every now and then when I slow down the temp gauge drops about 1 notch below its normal 200 reading. It's nerver done this before. Car runs great and heat is strong. Is this a sign of a failing thermostat? If so, where is the thermostat located, is it hard to replace, and should I get OEM or is OTC ok? Car has 89K on it.
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Replaced battery, replaced fuse line holder by battery, checked starter w/ jumper wires, most smaller ignition related fuses are fine.Can't read the schematic for the relay box, so I didn't check that. online manufacturer manual has nothing on it. how do I test those?
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I have an 01 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 Triton. The truck has 222,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed that when I am stopped at a stop light/stop sign while in gear, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero and the light comes on. As soon as I let off the brake and give it gas, it pops back up to normal. While driving, the needle never moves and stays consistent until I stop again, and back down to zero it goes.
If I put the truck in Park, the pressure goes back to normal. Same with neutral. It seems it is hit or miss and does not do this all the time, but I just wanted to see what your thoughts are. After doing some research I am leaning towards an oil pressure sensor/sending unit.... The truck runs perfectly fine, I just want to make sure it is not something more serious.
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Gauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
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Nissan Pathfinder SE-V6 4x4 My blinkers quit working, but flashers still come on. All 3 brake lights also went out but tail lights still work. when the car is cranked and blinker is on there is a buzzing (alert) sound and the oil temp light comes up on the dash, there is no sound when the key is in the on position, only when it is cranked. Occasionally there is a crackle through the speakers that usually goes away when I turn it off. I don't know if the last part is relevant but I figured I would put it in anyway. Is this an easy fix or are there serious electrical problems?
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I have a 2013 F550, v10. At idle, the oil pressure gauge drops and the red oil light comes on. If I hit the gas, the gauge pops back up. I swapped out the oil pressure switch. That didn't fix the problem.
I thought maybe the gauge was faulty, so I bought a 2 inch mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked that up, leaving the factory gauge disconnected.
I watched the oil pressure start around 50 psi cold, and it slowly fell to 10-15 psi as it warmed up. The truck has 65k miles on it. There is no knocking, no ticking, no loss of performance.
I cannot imagine that at 65k miles, that it would be a worn engine. Right??
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First, about a month ago the gas gauge started to malfunction. The low fuel light will come on and the gauge will show low even though it has nearly half a tank left. When will fill it the gauge only goes to 7/8 full.
Second, today is started stalling when I press down on the pedal. If I wait a few minutes it will restart. Has stalled twice but then will run fine.
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My 2005 Subaru WRX has been making a chirping sound for a while now. It only happens when I go on fairly long-ish drives (15+ minutes) and stops when I press on the brakes, only to resume when I let go of the brake. I have a brand new baby and don't feel safe driving her around in the car.
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After having my oil changed at a local place, the oil pressure gauge showed "high." hoping it would go away, i drove for a week. it didn't... took it back to the shop and they said it was a little full which would cause it to show high pressure. That was earlier today. The gauge however has not changed. Still shows high oil pressure. I need to drive 400 miles tomorrow and am not sure if it is safe? Perhaps just a bad sensor??? I need to know if i can hit the road or not.
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I have an 87 Ranger and the oil pressure gauge is slow to respond changes in pressure. Is this the way the gauge is designed to work or do I have a bad sending unit?
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I have an 05 F250 Super Duty 6.0 V8 Turbo Diesel. This is my first diesel so don't know my way around it too much yet. I just don't know what could cause this problem. It sounds like a faulty sensor to me. But no engine light has come on. My oil pressure drops down to in the red zone when I brake while driving, then once I return to driving again it returns to the normal pressure. It's almost as if it has something to do with the tilt of the vehicle.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Quest and the odometer area which also displays the fuel gauge fades in and out. random numbers fade away and reappear. Fuel level bars also fade and reappear. What could cause this? It is just old or is there another cause?
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My sister drives a 2005 Nissan Altima. I am not real familiar with Japanese OEMs but I do most of my own repair work on my car (which currently has issues of its own). What's wrong and how do I go about making the repair...
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We have a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder (automatic) that is having trouble starting. We can't find a pattern to when it starts and when it doesn't start so we can't diagnose the problem. When it doesn't start, here's what happens: turning the key, you can hear one soft click. Then nothing. After several or many turns of the key (and the same single click), it finally "catches" and starts. Two weeks ago, the car would not start at all. Even the following day, it wouldn't start. The lights and radio did work. We tried a jump-start and it surprisingly started right up. We immediately replaced the battery, but the problems resumed. The following have been replaced since the problems began: starter, ignition switch, battery, transmission, and the horn for the alarm has been bypassed. Note: with the old battery back in, it does work.
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Our 1999.5 Nissan Pathinder has about 148,000 miles on it. At the end of 2011, we replaced the struts, shocks, and brake pads. We also added a new in-dash stereo with GPS. At the end of 2011, the mechanic recommended replacing the ignition wires, cap/rotor, and spark plugs, all of which were OEM. The mechanic also recommended replacing the power steering belts and serpentine belts, which were cracking. We did not do these repairs in 2011.
At the beginning of February 2012, I drove the car for several miles and then parked for 30 minutes. When I re-started the car, the engine made a thumping sound and the whole car vibrated. The thumping sound was a dull sound (not a pinging). These symptoms occurred in Park. I drove about 100 feet down the parking lot (using both Reverse and Drive) and the thumping sound and vibration continued. I parked and re-started the car. The symptoms continued for about 1/2 mile driving and then went away.
The problem has occurred 2-3 times more. To my knowledge, the problem has only happened when the car has been driven, left standing for 15-60 minutes, and then restarted. Each time the problem goes away shortly after it begins. The third time the problem happened, the "Service Engine Soon" light went on. We took the car to a different garage. The computer showed two codes (Cylinder 2 Misfire, which had been tripped 3 times), and Engine Vibration.
The mechanic recommended doing the service that we had put off in 2011 (ignition wires, cap/rotor, spark plugs, power steering belts, and serpentine belts). The theory was that a misfiring cylinder may have caused the engine vibration. So, we had this service done. The next morning after picking up the car, and again after a short drive, a 30-minute delay, and restarting the engine, the problem happened again. So, it seems that the service did not fix it.
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This is a '96 Nissan Pathfinder with a manual transmission.
On a few occasions, sporadically, over the span of a couple months, my pathfinder wouldn't start on the first turn of the key... but it would on the second or third turn. When I say "wouldn't start," I mean I'd get a single click and that's it... it wasn't trying to turn over and failing. It wasn't cranking at all. The stereo and lights worked fine though.
Then, on two occasions about a week from each other, it failed to start (as above) right after a short drive but started again without issue a couple hours later. On these two occasions, I tried turning the lights on and starting and did not see the lights dim, which would seem to indicate no juice was getting to the start motor at all I guess?
Now, it seems to have just stopped starting altogether. The battery voltage seems fine. A little high even at 15V+ when measured with a multimeter.
Do these symptoms give any strong indications of what the problem might be? If I have a chance of fixing it myself, I'd like to do so. Otherwise, I'd like to have a good idea of what the problem is before having it towed somewhere.
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