Nissan - Pathfinder :: 2003 - Accelerator Suddenly Becomes Unresponsive When Going Uphill
Jun 28, 2011
Took it to the dealer today to have the seatbelt replaced, which they did. As I was leaving the lot I noticed the airbag light was still blinking so I went back. Tech brought out the OBDII and ran a scan. No errors. Went through all menus and cleared everything only to realize his OBDII had the wrong 'code card' in it. So he went and got the right card and came back, ran it again, still no errors. Went through all menus again and cleared everything including what he called an old error but not one related to the airbag. As he was walking away to go get his manager the light... just went off on it's own. (Think it was mad at the tech, NOW I know why.. then I didn't.)
On the way home, on the highway, in Texas, going uphill... the accelerator suddenly becomes unresponsive. The car starts slowing down, 65, 60, in a 70 where everyone passing me is doing 80... So, I goosed the gas, revved it over 4k and ... the gear shifted and the car sped up... WTF?! Now this car ONLY has 83k miles on it. It was mint. No problems AT all, ran smooth as butter until I let the dealer touch it. NOW, it drives like gramma's jalopy and I can't for the life of me figure out what the heck the seatbelt has to do with the other issue but THAT drastic of a change is NOT coincidence.
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I'm trying to resolve a nagging brake problem on my 98 Pathfinder. In short, braking power is weaker than it should be, but I do not have sponginess in the brake pedal. I've bled the whole system a few times, and even changed the master cylinder - to no avail.
While performing a few tests lately, I noticed the following behavior: if I drive up a steep hill and start pumping the brake pedal with the left foot while keeping the right foot on the gas (to keep moving uphill), the pedal gets progressively harder to press and braking action diminishes accordingly. If feels a bit like when you switch the engine off with the car still moving (in neutral) and try to brake: as the vacuum in the booster gets expended, the pedal gets harder and braking action diminishes dramatically.
I don't think this is related to the act of going uphill; it's just that this is the only way the engine can develop enough vacuum for the symptom to occur.
This leads me to wonder if I have a vacuum leak somewhere (either in the line or in the booster itself) that only happens at higher vacuum pressures...
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and the Car Key FOB did a strange thing last week. Car is locked, keys are INSIDE the house and [TaTa] on its own, the FOB started to "beep" like when you click it to lock the car, made that kind of sound. Funny thing and wonder if this could be a coincidence, down the street, 8th of a mile away [or less] a house was being built. Could someone have had [maybe] an alarm system or two-way Nextel phone or SOMETHING [???] that could set it off? What can be done about it BESIDES enclosing the FOB in aluminum foil? We did that. Strangely, the beeping has stopped, which gives me the idea that it MAY have been what I suggested in the first place . . . something "signaling" it from wherever to go off!
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My car at first had issues just not starting. Now it starts just fine but it stalls when I come to a stop at lights or signs. This past time it hesitated before stopping after it turned off. When it turns off the lights and radio are still on. I have taken it to a nearby mechanic and a Nissan Dealership....Nothing... Nissan Pathfinder 2003 SE ....
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I have a 2005 Jetta 2.0L (MKIV, of course) that has been giving me some trouble lately. Very seldom while driving in the city I'll notice that instead of shifting up, the car will lose power and the accelerator becomes unresponsive. Until lately this only happens for a second or two before things go back to normal, but I just got home from work and it seemed like the engine stalled.
I was going about 40 mph or so and suddenly the accelerator stopped responding, but I looked at my dash and the battery light was on. As I pulled over and attempted to slow down I found that the brakes were also very tight. Eventually I came to a stop and restarted the car, and the rest of the drive was uneventful, but it's got me worried.
I've had a couple of CELs pop up in the past so I invested in a VAG-COM reader. I just read the codes and here's what I got:
16804
18613
00529
Is this a transmission problem? Are these codes indicating separate issues or are they all connected?
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So I done some routine maintenance on my car today as I have had it just over a month. Done the oil, filter, thermostat and coolant today. This is the 2azfe, 160,000 k's.
As the title suggests, the accelerator pedal has stopped working, but I'm pretty sure its something I have done. I noticed the idle was a bit strange at times when warm, from third to second gear changes the rpm would jump up to around 1200 rpm, but if I changed from 4th to third gear the rpm would drop down to normal idle. So I decided to try clean the throttle body.
I had done this before on our 5sfe's which we no longer have. All I done was disconnected the air intake hose from the throttle body and sprayed some TB/carby cleaner in. On the 5sfe I could run the engine with the intake pipe off and I tried to on this too. It started and quickly stalled. Ok no big deal. So I put it back together and restarted it ok. It run fun. I gave it a few rev's via the engine bay throttle control and it revved ok. I never thought at this stage to check the accelerator peddle itself. Wasn't until the me n the family went to go somewhere I realised I had no throttle. Strangely, with the engine off I noticed the engine bay throttle control seems a bit notchy.
Anyway, tomorrow I'm gonna disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, and check fuses. Could the throttle bottle/carb cleaner have affected a sensor somehow? There was no problem before I done this so I know its self inflicted.
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Here are the basics:
1. Suppose I come to a dead stop or a rolling stop and I continue keeping a small or very small amount of pressure on the accelerator. When I try to start again gently, there are two outcomes: (a) the "hesitation" or "no or dead throttle response," when I had added only a small amount of pressure, or (b) a "lurch" when I add more pressure to counter act the hesitation!
2. On the other hand, if I come to a stop or a partial/rolling stop, and remove all pressure from the accelerator before I start again, it seems I can start from a stop normally, both gently and under control. I have been experimenting by being certain there is no accelerator pedal at all prior to any start from dead or nearly a dead stop. That isn't, however, a fail-safe approach because of various driving conditions.
But, even if that provides a partial remedy, there is still a problem because this isn't the way the accelerator should work. It should not take all that learning, adjustment, and counter-measures to drive safely.
I certainly agree with the another poster: either of the two results of this: the "hesitation," and/or the sudden "lurch," could put the truck in a dangerous situation. I already have experienced this near chaos a couple of times.
So, is this problem continuing to appear on 6.7 2011 Fords, and, if anyone has a 2012---has this problem appeared on the most recently built Fords?
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I have some serious vibration at about 40 to 50 MPH only when the accelerator is depressed. As soon as I let off the gas it stops. I have had the tires rotated and balanced and the U joints checked. My Mechanic says he can't figure it out and to drive it until it breaks.
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I have a 2001 Elantra with 126k miles. For months it's been randomly hesitating, meaning I'll be riding along and suddenly the gas pedal will do nothing...then about 3 seconds later, VROOOM, the gas pedal will start working again. Recently, it's started stalling as well.
I've already replaced the MAP sensor, input speed sensor, throttle position sensor, spark plugs, wires, and coil pack. Nothing has worked, but it is getting progressively worse (it stalls more frequently, and the gas pedal becomes suddenly unresponsive more often).
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We have a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder (automatic) that is having trouble starting. We can't find a pattern to when it starts and when it doesn't start so we can't diagnose the problem. When it doesn't start, here's what happens: turning the key, you can hear one soft click. Then nothing. After several or many turns of the key (and the same single click), it finally "catches" and starts. Two weeks ago, the car would not start at all. Even the following day, it wouldn't start. The lights and radio did work. We tried a jump-start and it surprisingly started right up. We immediately replaced the battery, but the problems resumed. The following have been replaced since the problems began: starter, ignition switch, battery, transmission, and the horn for the alarm has been bypassed. Note: with the old battery back in, it does work.
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Our 1999.5 Nissan Pathinder has about 148,000 miles on it. At the end of 2011, we replaced the struts, shocks, and brake pads. We also added a new in-dash stereo with GPS. At the end of 2011, the mechanic recommended replacing the ignition wires, cap/rotor, and spark plugs, all of which were OEM. The mechanic also recommended replacing the power steering belts and serpentine belts, which were cracking. We did not do these repairs in 2011.
At the beginning of February 2012, I drove the car for several miles and then parked for 30 minutes. When I re-started the car, the engine made a thumping sound and the whole car vibrated. The thumping sound was a dull sound (not a pinging). These symptoms occurred in Park. I drove about 100 feet down the parking lot (using both Reverse and Drive) and the thumping sound and vibration continued. I parked and re-started the car. The symptoms continued for about 1/2 mile driving and then went away.
The problem has occurred 2-3 times more. To my knowledge, the problem has only happened when the car has been driven, left standing for 15-60 minutes, and then restarted. Each time the problem goes away shortly after it begins. The third time the problem happened, the "Service Engine Soon" light went on. We took the car to a different garage. The computer showed two codes (Cylinder 2 Misfire, which had been tripped 3 times), and Engine Vibration.
The mechanic recommended doing the service that we had put off in 2011 (ignition wires, cap/rotor, spark plugs, power steering belts, and serpentine belts). The theory was that a misfiring cylinder may have caused the engine vibration. So, we had this service done. The next morning after picking up the car, and again after a short drive, a 30-minute delay, and restarting the engine, the problem happened again. So, it seems that the service did not fix it.
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This is a '96 Nissan Pathfinder with a manual transmission.
On a few occasions, sporadically, over the span of a couple months, my pathfinder wouldn't start on the first turn of the key... but it would on the second or third turn. When I say "wouldn't start," I mean I'd get a single click and that's it... it wasn't trying to turn over and failing. It wasn't cranking at all. The stereo and lights worked fine though.
Then, on two occasions about a week from each other, it failed to start (as above) right after a short drive but started again without issue a couple hours later. On these two occasions, I tried turning the lights on and starting and did not see the lights dim, which would seem to indicate no juice was getting to the start motor at all I guess?
Now, it seems to have just stopped starting altogether. The battery voltage seems fine. A little high even at 15V+ when measured with a multimeter.
Do these symptoms give any strong indications of what the problem might be? If I have a chance of fixing it myself, I'd like to do so. Otherwise, I'd like to have a good idea of what the problem is before having it towed somewhere.
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The A/C in my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder (~153,000 miles) only works on high as of this afternoon's commute. This seems like a common problem on older cars - what's the typical cause? Googling just gives me all sorts of answers and I would like to have some background before calling our mechanic.
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My car recently got a code for the camshaft sensor after my car died in the middle of street and the engine light turned on. I had gotten it replaced. In fact, I had both (left and right) camshaft sensors replaced and we changed out the crankshaft sensor as well. Then, a new problem comes up.
My car does not accelerate as strongly as it used to. In first gear (car is automatic), my car seems to struggle to get in 2nd gear. Imagine the feeling of your car when you keep it in 1st gear (in a stick-shift) and you KNOW that's the point of having to shift into 2nd, but you keep driving anyway. Then, once it does shift gears, my car jolts forward with a big drop in RPM. Imagine the feeling of finally shifting your manual transmission into 2nd gear and feeling that "relief" in the engine as it doesn't seem to struggle anymore. What's worse is that at higher speeds/gear my Pathfinder won't go beyond 4000 RPM. I'm driving at around 65 mph and the car is at 2500 RPM. When it hits 4000 RPM, the RPM just ticks before it and my car stutters back and forth as if I'm playing a beat with my car by hitting the breaks.
An example scenario, I'm driving on the highway and there's a slower car in front of me. I just want to pass the person and be on my way but as I press on the gas, my RPMs don't really increase as it normally would when applying more gas to go faster. Once I do finally get to 4000 RPM, my car starts to stutter or rock back and forth as if hitting an invisible wall. Are there tons of reasons that this could happen?
On the other hand, I tested my car, in park, to see if my engine would rev pass 4000 RPM, and it does. So, the problem presents itself only when I'm driving.
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I have a Nissan Pathfinder 2001 and it only works on settings 1 - 3 . When put on high the compressor turns off and no cool air . Even when turn on , the air is not cool enough. It's pretty hot in Arizona but it should cool off nice but it doesn't . Took it for a check up and it needs just a bit of refrigerant and probably the AC control might need to be replaced. But they weren't sure about it.
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How to stop my Pathfinder from randomly spouting it's alarm? Happens about once a day, I think it only happens when the car is locked but not quite sure.
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is there a way to check fuel injector to make sure they are working.
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My Nissan Pathfinder (1994) makes a "clunk" sound when I go around tight corners, usually only one "clunk" per turn.
The sound occurs on tight turns at low speed (e.g. on a round-a-bout: [URL] ....) as the weight of the car shifts and leans away from the turn.
The sound seems to come from the front end, near the driver's side wheel.
My mechanic couldn't work out what was wrong. He removed, greased and reassembled the upper driver's side ball joint and then gave up.
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I have a 1998 Pathfinder with around 160,000 miles on it. This week it has had some issues with stalling when I am idling. The first time it happened, I was at a stoplight and it cut out 3 times and I was able to start it back up and drive the rest of the way home (40 miles) with no problem. The next time it started stalling out I was at a stoplight and was able to put it in neutral and rev the engine and it stayed on. I have a 45 mile commute to and from work every day, and I don't want this to happen when I am on the highway going 65mph.
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2000 Nissan Pathfinder, 150k miles, automaticWhen I accelerate between 2nd and 3rd (from what it feels) the whole car shakes. No matter what speed I'm already at.I recently had both CV axles replaced. Transmission fluid doesn't have any flaky stuff or anything, it's pink though. The check engine light is always on, but it starts to blink when it starts to shake between 2-3 gear.
It's been doing this for about two weeks, nothing has changed, average 15 miles a day. No weird smells from the engine, leaking radiator fluid super slowly (was told to just keep filling it)To start the car I have to press the gas slightly.That's everything I know is wrong with it. I just want the shaking to stop. Does it sound like I need new transmission fluid or something?
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i wanna put a lift kit on my 87 pathfinder but i was wondering if i would have to change the gears, if so how would i change them?
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