Nissan - Pathfinder :: 2002 - Slowly Crank And Eventually Start
Jun 30, 2011
Will try to sum it up: Most of the time, the thing starts like a charm, first try. Every now and then, though, I'll turn the key and either a) nothing will happen or b) it will slowly crank and eventually start. If nothing happens, I have always been able to try again seconds later and everything works OK. Have been through several batteries. Current battery checks out OK, as does starter and alternator.
A short circuit, perhaps? If so, how would I check it out? Problem with taking it to a mechanic is, most of the time all is OK. No pattern as to when the trouble will occur (has yet to happen with vehicle in the shop, of course).
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My wife's Pathfinder (a 2002) has developed a problem with slow starting. The car cranks well (even at -20F, so it's not a weak battery) but takes a long time to start. It might crank for 5 seconds before sputtering to life. After being driven and shut off, most of the time, it will start up instantly again, just like it used to before the problem started. The problem is intermittent in that it sometimes starts pretty quickly in the morning, although it's not the instant start that it used to be, it might only crank for 1 second or less. I know that sounds like a normal time for a car to crank before starting, but the Pathfinder used to start, almost literally, instantly after the key was turned. So, even 1 second is an uncharacteristically long time.
What I've done:
-- Replaced spark plugs
-- Swapped the starter relays with identical relays under hood
-- Replaced fuel filter
What I haven't done:
--Replaced fuel pump
--Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Both of these are somewhat big jobs (I think I can handle both of them) and more expensive than what I've already done, so I'd like to get some input on where the fault could lie before picking one. Or, am I completely off base thinking it's fuel system?
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This is a '96 Nissan Pathfinder with a manual transmission.
On a few occasions, sporadically, over the span of a couple months, my pathfinder wouldn't start on the first turn of the key... but it would on the second or third turn. When I say "wouldn't start," I mean I'd get a single click and that's it... it wasn't trying to turn over and failing. It wasn't cranking at all. The stereo and lights worked fine though.
Then, on two occasions about a week from each other, it failed to start (as above) right after a short drive but started again without issue a couple hours later. On these two occasions, I tried turning the lights on and starting and did not see the lights dim, which would seem to indicate no juice was getting to the start motor at all I guess?
Now, it seems to have just stopped starting altogether. The battery voltage seems fine. A little high even at 15V+ when measured with a multimeter.
Do these symptoms give any strong indications of what the problem might be? If I have a chance of fixing it myself, I'd like to do so. Otherwise, I'd like to have a good idea of what the problem is before having it towed somewhere.
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I am at my wit's end with my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder. In the last four months we have had periodic problems starting it. It will act like it wants to crank but won't fire up. However, a local mechanic and the Nissan dealer can't determine the problem. They have: ~ recharged the battery ~ replaced the battery cables ~ replaced the spark plugs ~ tested the fuel pressure ~ replaced the ECM relay ~ replaced the adjusted steering angle sensor Of course, it starts right up at the shop so they can't duplicate the problem.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and the Car Key FOB did a strange thing last week. Car is locked, keys are INSIDE the house and [TaTa] on its own, the FOB started to "beep" like when you click it to lock the car, made that kind of sound. Funny thing and wonder if this could be a coincidence, down the street, 8th of a mile away [or less] a house was being built. Could someone have had [maybe] an alarm system or two-way Nextel phone or SOMETHING [???] that could set it off? What can be done about it BESIDES enclosing the FOB in aluminum foil? We did that. Strangely, the beeping has stopped, which gives me the idea that it MAY have been what I suggested in the first place . . . something "signaling" it from wherever to go off!
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and I love it. I bought it in 2006 and it has 156,000 miles on it. I am ready for something and here are the options. Buy another 2002 with low mileage for all the reasons you all know about that year and the 2003.Just great years. I have found a couple with mileage around 75,000 for around 8,500. My daughter wants my car and I am going to have a tune up done on it for her. Nothing wrong with it at all, Or get for me a 2011 Juke. I don't know why but I love that car. Been told I won't get much better gas mileage unless it stays in the eco mode. I can pay cash for the Pathfinder. Will have to finance the Juke. Makes me nervous that it's sort of new but I have heard from those who know that it's a good car.
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I recently had the the entire clutch and pressure plate replaced in my car and ever since there has been a sound like metal rattling in gears 2-4. It happens when I have low revs in those gears (particularly going up hills) and seems to go away when I am at high revs (~3k+). The mechanic I initially used says it's nothing but it sounds awful and is making me very nervous. The "Check Engine Soon" light has gone on as well.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 SE, and I have a strange noise emanating from the front suspension. It's essentially a creaking sound whenever going over speedbumps etc, that lasts only when crossing the bump in question. There is also a distinct ratcheting/popping sound when I more with the wheel at full lock. I've already replaced the front sway bar bushing, recently replaced the struts and springs, lower control arms, and have not noticed any shaking in the tie rods when I try to move them.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder. A couple of months ago the check engine light came on and the temperature gauge quickly hit the roof. I was able to pull it into my mechanics shop before any damages was done. They looked at it and said I needed a new thermostat and housing. A few weeks later the temp gauge again went up to near the top. I live, work and shop all in a close radius so am not in my car for long periods of time but the gauge seems to measure high after about 20 minutes of driving in the city (no more than 45 mph) with the AC on.
I turned off my AC and took the car back. They then replaced the fan belt and clutch that engages the fan. Took the car home and two days later temperature was up again. Took it back and they said they had not realized my car had a second thermostat so they changed it (at no additional charge "since they didn't catch that up front") - they kept my car for 2 days. A couple of days later the scenario replayed itself. I took it back in they changed the sensor to the temp gauge (at no additional charge) tested it and still overheated so now they have now also flushed radioator 3 times for any debris. They have had my car for three additional days now.
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We have a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder (automatic) that is having trouble starting. We can't find a pattern to when it starts and when it doesn't start so we can't diagnose the problem. When it doesn't start, here's what happens: turning the key, you can hear one soft click. Then nothing. After several or many turns of the key (and the same single click), it finally "catches" and starts. Two weeks ago, the car would not start at all. Even the following day, it wouldn't start. The lights and radio did work. We tried a jump-start and it surprisingly started right up. We immediately replaced the battery, but the problems resumed. The following have been replaced since the problems began: starter, ignition switch, battery, transmission, and the horn for the alarm has been bypassed. Note: with the old battery back in, it does work.
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My 1994 Nissan Pathfinder will intermittently not start. When I get in the car and turn the ignition, the dash board lights will light up as usual, I can hear the starter solenoid click, but then nothing will happen. The power windows, stereo, headlights and air-conditioning will all work but the motor will not even churn. All I hear is the click. If I get a jump the car will start right up.
This has been going on for over a year. At first it would only happen every few months and I thought that by just disconnecting the positive from the battery and putting it back then it would start. It appeared to be doing so. When it started happening more frequently, I took it my mechanic and each time he would fuss with some wires charge me 20 bucks or not charge me at all and I would be on my way. It would be good for a week or so then once again not starting for me.
After the three times of my regular mechanic not fixing the problem and saying it was fixed I took it to a different mechanic. This man said it was my starter even though it will start with a breeze if you jump it. I went ahead and had him replace it. My car started a few more times but the next day the problem was back. After having gone to two mechanics and them misdiagnosing and me paying for service I didn't need, I borrowed a volt meter and the battery test at 11.5 volts. Some buddies said, that perhaps my battery being 14 years old was putting out enough power to power the cars electronics but not enough to turn the starter over. So I bought a brand new battery. I got four starts off of it before I experienced the problem again.
Another friend thought it might be the alternator not fully charging the battery. I believe we tested it at 12 volts but he said it should be more. Anyway, he and I pulled the alternator took it to be tested and it's fine. While we were removing it though we discovered the belt on the alternator was a little loose so maybe it wasn't charging fully. Anyway, we put it all back together and the car started five or six times, while my more knowledgeable buddy was with me. The next day of course, no start.
I probably did a bunch of stuff I didn't have to do in trying to diagnose this problem but at least I learned a lot more about my car. Anyway, ye wise car sages, What do you think is wrong with my old car, which for the most part has treated me well for all these years? Ignition? a short somewhere? If it's the ignition perhaps you can explain to me why the vehicle will start with a jump.
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I have a a 2003 or 2004 Nissan Pathfinder (can't remember which at the moment). For the past few months, it's been having the same problem. One morning, I'll go out to start the car and the radio will have stopped working, but everything else is fine. A few days later, however, the car won't start in the morning. I'll jump it off, and the car and radio will be fine again for a few weeks. This doesn't last for long though.
Eventually, the radio will go out, and a few days later the car won't start again. I took it to my local mechanic and they tested the alternator/battery/ starter and said they were all fine, and that the battery cables just needed to be cleaned. After the cleanup, the car and radio worked fine for a few weeks...but sure enough, a few days ago, the radio went out. This morning I had to jump my car off again. What the real problem is? I'm taking it to the shop again today, but what else it could be...
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1990 Volvo 760 4 cyl. Turbo. Drove the car to work, everything fine. Got off work, car wouldn't start. Cranked but wouldn't start. It was getting spark. Changed the fuel filter, it ran perfect for a month. Drove it to town a month later, shut it off, then trying to start it, would crank and crank eventually start but run real rough. We got it home....barely.
Replaced the fuel filter again. Still wouldn't run right.
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same problem.
Replaced the throttle positioning switch. Same problem. Replaced the air control valve. same problem.
Found out that this car has an on board diagnostic doo hickey.
Found out how to check each sensor and component individually.
All sensors and components are working. Checked both fuel pumps and they are working. If I unplug the air flow sensor and the air control valve sensor, I can start the car using starter fluid and it will idle all day with out missing a lick.If I plug in either one of the sensors, it will kill it immediately.I don’t know what else to do to make this machine run.
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When cold engine starts on the first attemp 80% of the time, when warm its about 60-70%. Sometimes it take 2-3 attemps to start. But on the second to last attemp the engine will fire very little and then knock off.
So far I replaced the distributor, spark plugs and wires, boost sensor?, fuel pressure regulator, and checked the injector ohms and fuel pressure at the engine with the old pump. After replacing the fuel filter it started fine for a few days, after replacing the fuel pump it started fine for a week. Thus making me believe it's a fuel issue. So I added check valves to the fuel line at the engine, both the supply and return lines. And still few days later it's back.
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1989 Nissan pathfinder. 6cylinder - VG30i - Manual trans
Engine was misfiring (running okay but putt, putt, putting) so I pulled be plugs to check for signs. Other than wear and wide gap the plugs looked okay, but I installed new plugs as they're cheap and I was already pulling them. I replaced them one at a time so didn't mix up the wiring. I went to restart the engine and now it turns over and starts but then immediately dies. If I really slam on the pedal I can get it to rev up a couple times, but it really wants to completely die right away. It'll start but won't run
- I took the battery lead (neg) off for a few days - maybe that reset something?
- I had a very empty gas tank - so low that I thought it might be out of fuel. I put two gallons in just to make sure. Because I can slam on the gas and get it to revving I'm not sure being out of gas is the issue.
- I removed the distributor cap to check for wear but reinstalled (picture attached).
- I sprayed some Mass airflow sensor cleaner into the throttle body to clean up, the throttle body valve blade was pretty clean.
- I'm doing this test without the air filter in. The old one was so dirty I removed it and didn't bother putting it back on. Going to buy a new one today.
- It cannot pass smog due to this misfire (obviously not detonating fuel so it's polluting)
- The engine was start up readily before I started tinkering. It would seem strange that adding new plugs
- I didn't gap the plugs.
Next steps :
- Look for any wires knocked loose or hoses disconnected.
- Pull the error codes (check engine light is on cuz, it's not running)
- Check Vacuum and diagram and hoses.
- Check ignition system wires.
- Check fuel pressure.
- Check Cylinder Compression.
Ultimately I'm trying to tune it up (and fix misfire) anyway, not just change the plugs, so doing more diagnosis is okay. It's also not my primary car. I haven't worked on cars in a while so I'm a little rusty and also needing to get necessary tools to complete the tasks. But it's fun I hope I can get this car running well again soon.
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Replaced battery, replaced fuse line holder by battery, checked starter w/ jumper wires, most smaller ignition related fuses are fine.Can't read the schematic for the relay box, so I didn't check that. online manufacturer manual has nothing on it. how do I test those?
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I have an 06 Pathfinder LE that was running fine earlier. got to a location and when i went to drive home it was a tough start, rough idle and lack of power. got an 0302 code so i changed out the plugs and swapped the # 2 coil for # 4. once started still ran rough as described. read code again after clearing and code still ran 0302, didn't follow coil. is the #2 coil on drivers side as i have read?
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My friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
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When I start my S60, it runs extremely rough and will eventually stall. I do this over and over . . try and put it in gear and it will go a bit, run very rough, and will stall out. After a few minutes, something kicks in and it runs perfectly. If I don't try to drive, and sit with it idling, it runs very rough and I have a difficult time getting the rpms up. Then, the engine will suddenly race for a bit and everything is fine. It is very periodic in nature, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or not. It can sit over night and be fine, or do it, I can run around all day without problems and then suddenly it decides not to start up and run. The temperature outside doesn't seem to be a factor.
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The electric windows in the front seem to be very lazy. When you depress the button, it goes down slowly and eventually stops halfway. Does it need a lube?
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Our 1999.5 Nissan Pathinder has about 148,000 miles on it. At the end of 2011, we replaced the struts, shocks, and brake pads. We also added a new in-dash stereo with GPS. At the end of 2011, the mechanic recommended replacing the ignition wires, cap/rotor, and spark plugs, all of which were OEM. The mechanic also recommended replacing the power steering belts and serpentine belts, which were cracking. We did not do these repairs in 2011.
At the beginning of February 2012, I drove the car for several miles and then parked for 30 minutes. When I re-started the car, the engine made a thumping sound and the whole car vibrated. The thumping sound was a dull sound (not a pinging). These symptoms occurred in Park. I drove about 100 feet down the parking lot (using both Reverse and Drive) and the thumping sound and vibration continued. I parked and re-started the car. The symptoms continued for about 1/2 mile driving and then went away.
The problem has occurred 2-3 times more. To my knowledge, the problem has only happened when the car has been driven, left standing for 15-60 minutes, and then restarted. Each time the problem goes away shortly after it begins. The third time the problem happened, the "Service Engine Soon" light went on. We took the car to a different garage. The computer showed two codes (Cylinder 2 Misfire, which had been tripped 3 times), and Engine Vibration.
The mechanic recommended doing the service that we had put off in 2011 (ignition wires, cap/rotor, spark plugs, power steering belts, and serpentine belts). The theory was that a misfiring cylinder may have caused the engine vibration. So, we had this service done. The next morning after picking up the car, and again after a short drive, a 30-minute delay, and restarting the engine, the problem happened again. So, it seems that the service did not fix it.
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