Nissan - NX :: 1991 - Does Not Start / No Spark From Coil
Jul 9, 2014
'91 Nissan NX 1600.It does not start., No spark from the coil which I've tried replacing, and the wiring tests fine everywhere before that. It's been sitting like this for going on two years, I think.
Background : Right before this started happening I replaced the clutch disk and flywheel, as well as complete timing, sprockets, guides, even the cover. About a week after that the fuel pump stopped, after I replaced that I hear it prime, but now I have the no spark problem.
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'91 Nissan NX 1600.It does not start., No spark from the coil which I've tried replacing, and the wiring tests fine everywhere before that. It's been sitting like this for going on two years, I think. Background:Right before this started happening I replaced the clutch disk and flywheel, as well as complete timing, sprockets, guides, even the cover. About a week after that the fuel pump stopped, after I replaced that I hear it prime, but now I have the no spark problem.
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1996 Ford F150 5.0 ... New battery, new alternator, new starter, new coil, dis cap good and rotor is good. New plugs and wires. Ignition mod tested good.
Drove a mile from my house and lost power to my engine. Lights and radio work. Just sits there and cranks and cranks. I'm not getting spark from the coil. Don't know a lot about engines.
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i have a 1991 s10 2.5 liter that will not start. i have spark, and fuel to the injector but nothing from the injector. how do i determine if the injector is bad or something is not telling it to spray?
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I have a friends 91 GTO in my garage and it will not start, it seems to be getting fuel because it smells pretty strong but I know it isn't getting spark, and everything on this car is in Japanese, I cant even figure out what fuses to check or anything...
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I have a 91 Nissan pick up that is just making a clicking noise upon trying to start it. I replaced the battery. The inside light works, radio works, dash clock works, but still just clicking upon trying to start. Is there a clutch safety switch that could cause this, or starter, or ???
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2000 Maxima - I just changed the head gaskets, got it back together and no start, no spark, solid security light and linking error to ecu. 50 miles to a nissan dealer. I have 12v to the injectors but no ground, I just checked spark last night and have none. I tried all three keys, will no battery for a month or two cause key security issues? I hate to drag it to Nissan and have them tell me I need a new ecu for a few thousand dollars. Does a security issue cause a linking issue?
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Here we go again. shut my 87 F150 5.0 off when I got to work when it was time to leave no spark from the coil, same as 3 weeks ago. First thing I did was pull the new dist and replace it nothing, so I pulled out the new coil still nothing, its getting power to the coil so I would assume the relay is good .
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I have a 1991 Volvo 940 SE with turbo and 162,000 miles
The problem is there is no spark coming from the ignition coil. There is power going to the ignition coil but no spark. The car turns over but doesn't start.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor and the Ignition Module. The wire that goes from the ignition module to the Ignition Coil has been replaced with a new wire that goes directly from the module to the coil .
Also the coil has been checked and its operating within parameters.
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My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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My 93 camry v6 has spark jumping all over the place from the coil wire.I bought some new plug wires but only used the coil so far to see a minor improvement.I'll wait till it's dark to see where and if there is any more leakage.Plug wires are only 5mm thick.Is there something better than this(duralast) out there?
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I've been doing the 40k service to my R32, and was in the process of changing the spark plugs.
The first three went smooth with no problems, the next three however.... When I pulled the coil packs off, they were covered in rust and corrosion.
The inside of the block leading down to the spark plug (where the coil pack was) also had rust in it. I haven't pulled those three spark plugs out yet. What caused the rusting?
I assume I need to replace these three coil packs, and clean off the existing spark plugs before removing them. Is that a fair assessment?
I haven't had any trouble with misfiring or stalling. The car has been running great.
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Scheduled maintenance for changing spark plugs for my Camry 2004 2.4L is either 120k miles, or 144 months (12 years). My Camry reached 12 years first. In removing the coil connectors, 3 of 4 holdowns cracked off. I guess not so surprising after 12 years subject to engine heat. I'm NOT going to replace the connectors. Looking for a patch for this problem? Duct tape will just result in adhesive getting everywhere it shouldn't. Maybe there's a high temperature "crazy glue" I could apply at the connector interface that will last another 12 years, or 120k miles?
Otherwise, I'll use the "hope adhesive". That means I'll just hope the connectors don't work loose at a bad time.
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2004 passat 1.8t. How do I remove the coil packs on the top of the spark plugs, so I can repalce the plugs.
I unclipped the wire and unsure how to pull the coil pack off.
No bolts. can turn it and maybe pull, but doesn't budge and don't want to break.
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1998 Ford Explorer. Coil pack isn't putting out spark to that cylinder. Would the next step be to replace the pack, or might I check something else 1st?
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I have an 86 f250 i just bought back with no spark. this truck is not original. used to be a diesel. has a 400 out of 81 f250. had this truck running just fine 4 years ago. sold it to a guy running and bought it back 4 yrs later not running.
Checked all the connection to make sure they r clean. Had the ignition modular tested and tested good. I have 12+ volts from the white and red wire. I have a little over 6 volts at the bat side of the coil. I have no spark from the coil. I notice every time I connect and disconnected the bat cable I will get a spark from the coil. i ran a test light from the tack test sight on the coil and tried to start and the light stayed real dim and never flickered.
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Have a 2006 Ford Taurus that has two dead cylinders. Cylinder 3 and 4. Code says bad coil. I replaced with new coil and plugs. Same problem. Replaced wires and same problem.
Car has 65K. What is causing both cylinders to be dead? Pulled wires off while running and no spark on 3 and 4.
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I have a 2002 prius that threw a spark plug and loosened the coil pack. The mechanic just reinstalled the plug and tightened the coil pack and said it was fine. Why it would throw a spark plug?? It was running fine, no warning lights, i just heard an unusual slight noise and opened the hood to check it out, and notice the loose coil pack over the first spark plug
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I have a 1998 JGC. 4.0L motor. Driving it around town the motor would just shut off. Used to do it once in a while....then started happening more and more. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor....thinking maybe it needed a tuneup. Sometimes it restarted right away (right after it quit). Sometimes it wouldn't start until the next day.
So two days ago, daughter was driving it home from work and the motor just quit again. This time it will not restart. Motor cranks over fine. I read on this forum that this is a sign of a bad CPS....although a bad CPS will usually allow you to drive home eventually. So I replaced the CPS. Cranked it over....no change. Now, to check for spark and fuel. I turn on the ignition...I hear the fuel pump in the tank going. Then I pull the coil wire (brand new since I replaced all wires)...and put a spark plug on it....crank the motor....and NO spark. I then pull the wire harness that feeds the coil. It's a 2-prong plug. I turn on the key and nothing showing on the voltmeter.
I then put the volt meter on the battery and it reads fine. So I follow the coil harness connector back...and it just goes into the main engine harness. I then put the OBDII reader to the port in the Jeep and turned on the ignition. I get "Link Error".....so it's not getting a read, but the cigarette light is working...so the port is fine. So no spark to the coil harness and the Link Error does this mean a bad ECM (computer)? Also note that the fuel gauge (and maybe other gauges) are not registering when the ignition is turned on. The check engine light is not on. Maybe security system? I thought a security system failure would turn off spark AND fuel....but I hear the fuel pump running.
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Al right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
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I'm looking around for coil packs and came across these: Granatelli Pro Series Extreme Coil Packs.....
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