Nissan - Maxima :: Sporadic Misfire - Ignition Coils Going Bad?
Apr 19, 2011
I haven't had a check-engine light yet, but at idle, my 1996 Maxima has a sporadic misfire -- there's no rhythm to it at all. Does this sound like a symptom of a coil going bad? What would be a good way to test them without having to replace all 6 of them? The car has about 175,000 miles on it. I just put in a new set of NGK iridium plugs, and hope I didn't damage any wiring in the process (that doesn't seem likely, but I guess I can't eliminate that possibility).
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I have honda civic 2005 Lx with 170,000 miles. I noticed increased RPM about 1.5 with cold start but no missfire. I attempted to take out ignition coils to see if genuine ones solve the issue. It is very little rainy today with high humidity. After I put new ignition coils, I noticed increased shaking with misfire. I have not touched anything except for putting in/out coils. I ensured the position and connection of the coils. Is this anything with humidity? I did it really quick without much exposure to the rain. How to resolve this issue? at least return to previous condition?
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The car is a 1998 Nissan Maxima. As you well know a car's interior in the summer is about 10 to 15 degrees more than the outside. When the outside temperature is 80 degrees or more I can't readily start the car. I turn the key and nothing happens. Sometimes I put the switch into the "on" position wait about 20 to 30 seconds, turn the key again and the engine starts. I think I need an ignition switch. My question is why does this happen? What does the temperature of the car's interior have to do with the poor operation of the switch? The interior of the car must be about 75 degrees or less for the car to start.
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I have a misfire on the number 2 cylinder on my 97 Nissan Maxima 5spd. The computer has been changed 3 times, and it'll work for a short time after the new computer is installed, but then the problem resumes. What would cause this to happen? The coil has also been changed.
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I have a 1998 Maxima with 57K miles on it. I just bought it about a month ago. Anyway, a week ago I noticed It felt very "choppy" when I shifted into Drive or Reverse. It felt like it was going to stall but it never did. The Service Engine Soon light has been on for about 3 weeks but now, when I go up hills especially, that light blinks. I can still drive it but I shift into Neutral at stoplights to avoid hearing the rough idle while in Drive. Went to Pep Boys yesterday - they had the car for about an hour and then informed me that they would need to keep the car for a full day because of the "complex issues involved" - especially concerning the codes. The codes they read were:
p0300 random misfire
p0325 knock sensor
p0440 evap emission
My car passed smog test abut 3 months ago. I can drive it OK it just is very choppy and so there's not a lot of power, especially going up hills.
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My wife was complaining of white smoke coming from the back of the car and that she smelled gasoline. So I took her 1999 Nissan Maxima to the shop and they put it on the machine and told me that the ignition rod was stuck open and that gasoline was leaking into the engine. They also said that it was not safet to drive. What an ignition rod is and why the car is not safe to drive? The car's value is questionable at this point.
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2002 VW Cabrio @80K miles no major repairs 1 1/2 years ago the car died while in motion - as if the ignition switch was turned off. While "dead in the water" I tried several things, cleaning battery cables (although horn & lights were strong), letting it cool, & jumper cables to no avail. It was towed to a local garage (who have been pretty good in the past) & the starter was replaced (they were puzzeled too, but that worked!!??). Fine for many months. Then another cutoff while in motion (30-40 mph). This time it started about 15 minutes later on its own. I drove it home & turned it off. When I went to move it into the garage it wouldn't start. After pushing it into the garage once again, cables were checked, the battery charged (again horn & lights were strong, but what the heck), checked all fuses, & looked for anything possibly suspicious. No luck.
In desperation I replaced the starter again (I know, it was probably just superstition at this point) & while at it cleaned every wiring connection I could find under the hood. It worked. The car started and ran fine, but I took it back to the original shop to see if they could find anything else - to avoid mid roadway flame outs! Understandably they were skeptical of finding the problem while it was still working. They ran it, drove, checked it, for several days & it did just fine. When I went to retrieve it wouldn't start!! Now they had it while in cardiac arrest, but before anything was diagnosed it came back to life on its own. It has been running fine for many months more.
It did it again today!! This time the 15 minute wait worked & it is back in our garage and as you can imagine my wife is not crazy about driving it again. Just some side notes: - When dead, all of the electrical system is out EXCEPT the ignition circuit - not even a click from the solinoid. - Previous to these "attacks" my wife has noticed some odd electrical occurences a day or two before, but not enough to disable the car. (dash lights flickering, acceleration stumble on takeoff, the radio going to safe mode when the power was never disconnected) - The only vague possible electrical anomoly is the installation of a Sirius radio receiver under the dash to the cigarette lighter. I haven't clue at this point.
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What would cause me to have to replace several of the same ignition coils in less than two years time? It seems like it always happens after I purchase gas.
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I have 2 spark plugs not firing. one of the three ignition coils does not fire, the other two do, is the most likely culprit be the ignition control module? car has the 3.8 motor.
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My husband's 2001 Buick LeSabre had an ignition module and one ignition coil replaced in March. Yesterday, the car broke down, and the mechanic told us that the new ignition coil shorted out the other two coils. Is this believable? We've been using the same mechanic for several years because we trusted him and have heard a lot of good things about him, but this seems kinda fishy. This car is not one of the GM cars that was recalled.
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I have a 63 dodge pickup with a habit of burning out ignition coils within 2 weeks. It's happened with the slant 6 motor, it's happened with the 318 v8 and its also happened with the current motor a 440. I have changed the ballast resistor, and the ignition switch, as well as the starter solenoid, and all related wiring.
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So the previous owner of my V10 Ex had all the plugs changed and some of the coils needed to be changed at the same time.
Some have a yellow sticker on them. Some are plain black. The yellow ones say "Motorcraft" plainly on them.
The black ones look identical to the ones on my wife's Duratec 3.0L V6 in our Mazda MPV. They also have a Motorcraft part number on them.
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Replaced plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 2. (cheap made in china coil packs off of autoparts warehouse)
Also, plugs had 30k miles on them with original packs. Got it again.
Replaced coil on cylinder 2. Got it again.
Bought Denso double platinums. Got it again.
Moved coil packs around. Misfire on cylinder 4.
Checked plugs, good dry non corroded. Its always 2 or 4.. not 1 or 3
Slow drive with less than 30% gas pedal action it runs "ok". If I go uphill or need to step on it, not happening. Bucks like a mule.
I dont think its the fuel injector... Ordered the red audi packs off europaparts. Might need to check connections. what do i do?
I've been also reading that it could be the cam follower. I'm willing to check it and then force the dealer to fix it under the extended warranty, but if its broken I cant put it back in. The dealer is 50 miles from me.
It happened a morning I was out of gas and used .... regular! But did put in super right after that. I had spare regular gas in a container (fresh) for the generator.
Then used fuel additives. I have also been using fuel additives every other fill up just to protect injectors. I know it wont do anything other than that because of direct injection.
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2009 Ford Focus. Six months ago got in car returning from 60 mile trip. Turned ignition key heard fuel pump hum but no juice to ignition. (Not anti-theft lockout--security light behaved normally.) Would not take jump. Ford Roadside assistance tried everything else possible. Nothing. Towed to nearest Ford dealer. On arrival, car started immediately. Took to local Ford dealer who found absolutely no problems but ran TSB 10-21-8 reprogram PCM--test OK. Had no further problems with car until a week-and-a-half ago--same thing happened. Car towed to dealer again. Started immediately at dealer! Picked up from dealer, that night same thing happened. Did not phone roadside assistance--after 45 minutes car inexplicably started. That was a week ago. No problems since then. Feeling a little panicky w/car that may fail at any time--winter coming.
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I have 06 XLS with 56,000 miles and about 3 weeks ago the check engine and VSC lights came on. It was fixed, a ignition coil on the 4 cylinder.
Now driving home today the check engine and VSC lights are on again! I was wondering should try to get the dealer to replace all the remaining ignition coils ?
Plus I read their was some type of manufacturer defect on the original ignition coils from the factory. Why Toyota won't recognize this issue ?
Two ignition coils in a little over a month . My first Toyota and I'm rolling with the punches .
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I am going to change the plugs to start trying to fix this. How do i remove the coils from the plugs. I cannot get the connector off and do not want to break it.
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Code: P0303 Misfire on cylinder #3.
Swapped coil from cylinder #3 to cylinder #6 and fuel injector from #3 to #2.
Shows misfire is still on #3. Plug looks normal tan brown.
#3 is the middle cylinder closest to the firewall I take it.
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I need to know what the resistance should be on my 2002 Echo's coils. I have an intermittent sputtering problem and it's driving me nuts! I put E3 spark plugs in the car about a year ago to improve the power and economy (it was on the original plugs at 160k miles!!) and they did work a lot but not long after that the sputtering problem started.
The car does have a code for the pre-converter O2 sensor but I replaced it, cleared the code and it keeps coming back. I have not pulled the codes recently but will in the next few days.
I've also read that the fuel filter is inside the gas tank but there is an access port under the back seat. I doubt that would cause the intermittent problem but I could be wrong.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 198,000 miles. The lite on the dash came on, "service engine soon" , I had the codes read and they said the coils are going bad.
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Upgrading ignition coils on 5.4's? Looking to upgrade mine and only came across a few and the reviews are mixed. I am primarily looking to smooth out the idle and gain some minimal power and maybe get a flicker of a gain in mpg.
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I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima SV that has poor gas mileage. I took it to Nissan to get checked out but they said there's nothing they could do because the car is showing no codes or no check engine light. I got my spark plugs changed, it seemed like it worked but a week or so later, it went back to how it was (the gas mileage). 2 weeks later, my mechanic checked the spark plugs in front of me, no rust or leaks on them. I burn a half tank of gas every 2 days and that's just driving local to work and back.
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