Nissan - Maxima :: Power Windows / Door Lock Stopped Working?
Dec 29, 2014
All of a sudden, none of my windows roll down and I can't use the automatic door lock switch either. Went to autozone and bought a new fuse but, didn't work. What's the deal?? it's a 1998 Nissan Maxima...
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I've searched the inter tubes, trying to find out if there is a fuse or relay or even circuit breaker that needs replacing. From all I've checked, I can't find a fuse, relay or circuit breaker labeled to control window and door locks.all 4 windows don't work (with exception to front passenger window occasionally goes down but not up.)finally figured i should have come to this fine forum first! (especially after hearing 'car talk' today)some other pages with similar questions had answers referring to fuse #12 or relay F (mine aren't identified that way). I'm heading out to get a test light -- just so i can see if i can test anything...
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My power windows and door lock controls on all doors have stopped working. No blown fuses and the local parts who says that locks and windows don't run on the same relay? I don't have a garage and cant really secure my vehicle?
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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2006 F150 5.4 2WD extended cab tow package 24k miles
My power windows have stopped working from all locations. I checked and the fuses are good. I can no longer use the exterior keypad to unlock the truck, yet my remote keyring switch will electronically open both driver and passenger doors. Neither driver's nor passenger's interior door switches work.
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T Wagon.
My passenger side, front window and lock stopped working. Once I cranked the AC and the car cooled a bit, the lock and window would work again.
Now, they have stopped working completely.
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My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
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Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
The car has an automatic antenna (up/down when you turn on/off the radio). I wanted to disconnect the motor to leave it in the up position. I followed the cables to the antenna (left the coax alone, of course), and cut the 3 conductors that were leading to "a box" under the antenna. NOTE: This area in behind a metal panel.
As intended, the antenna is stuck in the up position. The problem is that I also lost the dash clock, the remote to the door locks stopped working, and the radio memory buttons do not work anymore (the radio comes on in AM every time).
AND here is the mystery; I went back to the cables, spliced them together (correctly - they are color coded) but NOTHING CAME BACK TO NORMAL. The radio is still messed up, remote still not working, and the dash clock is still off.
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Ok so my v no longer beeps or flashes the lights when i lock it using the sks touch sensors or key fob. I just loaded up my prius v at my storage unit full of stuff to bring back to the house. It is packed to the ceiling. I had a small camping cooler at about ceiling height right behind the drivers seat on top of some other stuff. I thought if I drove gently it would be ok, well i stopped a little too fast and the camping cooler launched itself into the dash/center console, bounced off it and landed on the passenger seat.
I didn't see exactly where it impacted on the dash but there appears to be no marks or damage on the climate control or display audio. So the problem is now, maybe this just a coincidence, but when i lock the car from the outside using the FOB or the touch sensor on the door handle I just hear a faint click of the doors locking,(they doors still lock like normal) but no beep or flashing lights like before. I still get the flashing lights and beep sound when unlocking the doors. What I could have done?
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So my automatic door lock (set to 60 seconds in vehicle setting) stopped working for some reason. I double checked the setting and it seems to be on the right place. it was working fine before...
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I have a jetta mkiv GLI. My key remote stopped working and it will not unlock/lock, open trunk, or panic button for a while, so ill just lock the door putting the key in the door and turning twice. Now i do the same thing to lock the doors, but now it honk like it used to, until i open and close the driver rear door?
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I recently got a used 2007 prius as my first car; Unfortunately today the drivers side lock has stopped working. when trying to use the smart unlock, the Prius would beep many times, and the drivers door would not unlock (or lock for that matter). After getting into the car (with the mini key) I noticed that the inner lock button does not lock or unlock that door either.
All other doors function normally. The lock can be manually operated, so it's probably not mechanical.
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Last week out of the blue, the lock/unlock button the driver's side door stopped working altogether. It's not stuck, as I can definitely feel it click when pressed. Also, the passenger side button works just fine. This is very annoying after spending a year without ever having to use the actual key fob.
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I have a 2011 base model Camry.
The passenger side front door lock (electronic) stopped working a while back.
I fixed the drivers side issue when replacing the speakers in the car (driver side would stick and sometime not move by hand).
What is the best way to determine if the door lock actuator is dead or something else is wrong?
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My left rear door actuator motor has stopped working and I have read about the repair of just the electric motor, BUT has anyone found the replacement of the little electric motor, Lexus wants a fortune because they want to sell you everything, cables, latches, it all comes in one bundle for 250 or so--Jeez. So hoping someone has the part number or place that we can get these little motors and just replace that!
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I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima and never had a problem with it until recently. My husband and I took a long drive to NJ from NH and went we stopped for gas and turned off the car, we could not start the car back up. We naturally called AAA, but once they came, about a hour later, the car started right up. Since that time, the car has repeated this several times. I take a trip to the grocery store, get back to the car, no problem, then make another short stop and then try to start the car and it does not start. I have no problem starting the car going to work every day and when I come home from work. It only happens when I make short intermittent trips, sometimes 2-3 stops. It always starts when there has been at least 1/2 hour between starts. I have taken it to 2 mechanics and they can never reproduce the problem I now have a car I have no confidence in. I am afraid even to get gas for this car.
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I just bought this BMW 1986 735i, and all four power windows stopped working after I drove over a speed bump. I thought maybe it is a fuse, but I do not have the fuse box diagram.
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Some background: New remotes programmed worked a month then stopped working, toyota dealer got it working for a month but only worked within 3 feet of door. Now not working at all. Could it be receiver for remote in the car? Where is it? How to fix?
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The driver side lock actuator on my 1999 Explorer has stopped working. It got so I couldn't even use the key to lock the driver door. I know I can get a replacement part, but after taking of the door panel and trying to get at the actuator, I am concerned about doing the work myself. Any tricks for making the job easier? Are there special tools that would make it easier? Or would it be best just to take it to a repair shop and let them do it?
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I have a nissan maxima 2000 that sputters and the problem is getting progressively worse. If I am at a stoplight or just stopped with the drive gear on the car sputters. It skips almost every second, but if i put in in park the it runs smoothly. Now I notice that it is sputtering even when I am driving( it was not doing it before). I have already changed the sparkplugs and cleaned the injectors. Now I am debating whether i should change coils and boots. The repair is quite expensive so i want to make sure I am doing the right thing.
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Yesterday all four of my power windows stopped working in my 99 PA. The radio also has no power. I checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes (under the rear seat and in engine compartment.) Everything checks out... what am I missing?
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