Nissan - Maxima :: Car Pulls To The Left And Right When Brake Hard Over 40
Jul 30, 2014
OK so when I'm driving on freeways or highways and I have to break hard for some reason my steering wheel always pulls in some direction I don't want it to go. forcing me to hold it straight I've lived with this problem for a while but I'm doing 500 miles trips this weekend in the car and am concerned about if I had to brake at higher speeds etc., what might cause my steering wheel to pull left and right... 2003 nissan maxima ...
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier pickup that pulls to the left. I've had the alignment done - no change. I had the tires moved from the left to the right side - still no change. Firestone is recommending I all the front ball joins at a cost of $1200. Is that really the problem?
View 6 Replies
OK so my 2003 Nissan maxima is hard to start all the time after its been sitting for a few minutes like 30min or more also I'm getting a CEL light.
See the video : [URL] ....
View 12 Replies
When I fill the car with fuel, the check engine light will come on and stay on until I reach about 3/8 of a tank. Then it goes off until the next time I fuel. I have replaced the sending unit and gas cap to no avail. Any thoughts?
View 1 Replies
I bought a 2003 nissan maxima with 135k and it had a p0300 it had a performance k&n filter on it so i though someone might have installed it wrong or what ever so i bought the car cheap. i have replace the k&n filter with a stock 2000 nissan maxima air box with new filter i got from the junkyard it worked for the misfire calm down a little then i bought the car to a mechanic and he said because of my hard starting it could be a cam senor or crank senors so I've replaced that still no luck then he pulled out the spark plugs and they were sooty black but when i bought the car i checked and they were brand new so i swap them out with ngk platinum spark plugs then work a little but still same problem. i had a p0302,p0304,p0306 when i clear the p0300 but usually its all ways a p0300, its been a month and I am still driving like this.
SYMPTOMS:
Hard starting after 20 mins of sitting
I can smell gas from the driver seat when i start the car and open the window
Exhaust air isn't smooth but in pops
Getting like 14-15 mpg in city
When stopped at a stop light i can feel the car misfiring
WHAT I HAVE REPLACED:
Front bay 3 ngk spark plugs cylinders 2,4,6
Cylinder 4 coil
Air box
Cam sensor and crankshaft senor
Coolant temperature sensor
Battery
[URL] ....
View 19 Replies
The car wouldn't start ( just cranked a lot) I had the car towed to a local mechanic. He replaced the MAP sensor and now I've noticed 2 new problems.
1) engine idle rpms are erratic. When the car is started RPMs are at 1,500 after a few minutes they drop to normal range of 700 to 900 RPMs sometimes they drop too low and the car stalls. sometimes the RPMs surge up and down from 800 to 1,200 rpms.
2) very hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear. All the other shifts are normal. He said that he adjusted the RPMs because they were too high. I don't know how he did that because I thought that you couldn't adjust them because they are controlled by the computer.
Some other info, it has an exhaust leak (which Im going to fix) upstream of the O2 sensor, where the resonator connects to the headers. I replaced a rear brake line and while bleeding the lines I got brake fluid on the ABS wheel speed sensors. I replaced the coolant bypass hose and got water all over part of the engine compartment. It was immediately after I replaced that hose that the car wouldn't start.
Could the exhaust leak be the cause of the erratic idle rpms? Could water have gotten in a wire connector or shorted something out when I replaced the bypass hose? The bypass hose is directly above the transmission. My biggest concern is the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
View 15 Replies
So, I picked up my new car today, a 2012 obsidian ISF with 53,000. I'm driving it back from Texas to Georgia in the morning but after driving it for the first 100 miles I notice a pull to the left under hard acceleration and to the right when I let off. I've never driven an F before and I'm coming out of an IS350. I haven't had a chance to check tire pressures yet but I notice the right rear tire is a Dunlop and all other 3 are Bridgestones. Could this be the cause?
View 12 Replies
My 2000 ranger in 4x4 high never did this. And in 2wd it doesn't pull at all...
When in 4x4 high it pulls hard to the left ?????? is left not working? It has automatic hubs ...
View 3 Replies
A 2003 Nissan Maxima. The brakes were rebuilt about a year ago, and were fine for 6 months. Maybe 3000 miles. Then they developed the following behavior. In the morning or after being parked for a while (parking brake off) when backing out of the garage they'd make a low pitched but quite audible rubbing noise, and then also going forward, the same noise. Whumpa space Whumpa space Whumpa. There is no braking effect, and the behavior does not happen every day -- maybe once every three days. While driving forward at low speed, gently pressing the brake pedal or gently pulling up on the parking brake lever quiets the noise, and it does not recur that session. The noise seems to originate in the rear of the car, consistent with it's being affected by the parking brake. The brakes function perfectly otherwise.
View 2 Replies
Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
View 3 Replies
I've been replacing my steering components over the past month and have fixed all the previous issues other than this one that's got me stumped. After I make a hard left the steering will pull left (very hard) until I either turn the wheel right or hit a bump. Sometimes when going immediately from a left turn to a right turn (or vice versa) I can actually feel a slight pop as it starts to pull.
The order of repairs thus far has been: new power steering pump, new inner & outer tie rod ends, professional alignment, new steering box with both lines. The shop and I both agree the ball joints are good. I've jacked my truck up by the frame and removed the wheels to check for steering/suspension play but have not been able to find any. 180k miles on the chasis.
View 6 Replies
2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
View 14 Replies
My son has a 1963 Mercury Comet with a 170 straight 6 and automatic trans. Originally it would die when he made a sharp left. We fixed that by rebuilding the carb and putting in a new float. Then we found that the back brakes weren't working and had to replace a clogged brake line. Now for the weird problem. Whenever he brakes it pulls slightly left and the motor almost dies. If he anticipates the pull and steers right the car keeps running beautifully. I am assuming that the pull is probably caused by not getting all of the air out of the brake lines, but why does the car almost die unless he steers right when braking? The car does not die anymore when he makes left turns. These are non power hydraulic single cylinder brakes so there is no vacuum connection involved. The fuel filter and pump have been replaced.
View 10 Replies
My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
View 13 Replies
Well just called it quits from working on the truck tonight. Had some issues with my brakes going to the floor and pulling to the right some, so I went to auto zone and bought all new pads. Didn't think it was time yet because I just replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, maybe 20,000 miles ago. When I got home and everything pulled apart I looked at the pads on the truck and they still had 60% life. I looked closely and noticed that the guider pins on the caliper bracket (front drivers side) were seized. I figured this is what was causing my truck to pull. Looked on the passenger side and it looked similar. Went back to auto zone and returned the pads and bought new brackets for both sides. I got the drivers side replaced and working and all seemed well. I got to the passenger and had a hell of a time getting the pistons on the caliper to compress so I could get it off. Once I finally got it, I noticed the pins on that side were not seized. I bought 2 sets of guider pins so I took the old ones out and greased up the new ones and installed them. Put everything back together and took the truck for a drive. Everything seemed normal at first, but once I got on the highway and hit the brakes, my truck pulled to the left. HARD.. Im assuming this is because of the pistons on the passenger side caliper I was having a problem with, not having the piston compress all the way causing my truck to pull. While I was looking at the caliper, I also noticed what '"looked" like a grease fitting, and also a bleeder valve a few inches away from it. Am I crazy, or is that fitting for bleeding the brake lines also...?
View 5 Replies
My 8-year-old (2003), 134k mile Nissan Maxima has a new quirk. When the car is started from completely cold (as in over night), there is a distinctive intermittent squeaking noise (think water being rubbed against glass) coming from the left front somewhere near the tire. The car only does this for about 5 minutes or so until it's warmed up and it has to be going 20 miles an hour before it starts. Once the car is up and running you can turn it on and off all day, let it sit for a few hours even, and it's fine. What's going on?
View 4 Replies
My 2011 Dodge Journey, V-6, auto, awd, pulls hard to the right on hard acceleration. It always pulls just as the transmission shifts. My dealer's service manager said its due to the front drive shafts being different lengths and torgueing differently.
View 7 Replies
8 months ago i had a blown head gasket and went with a total new engine replacement. I did not use my usual mechanic but another repair shop that had a good reputation due to the price of a the new engine. My car ran well for about 2 months then i started to notice 2 issues. 1) when i applied the brakes hard the car stalled on me and 2) when i put the car in drive there was about a second hesitation before the car would drive. The hesitation (slipping) only does it when the car is in drive gear (auto transmission) and after a few moments of the car runs well even when i park it and restart it the rest of the day.
It only hesitates that way the first time i drive it for the day or if it has been parked for around 4 hours or more. The stalling when i press the brakes hard is constant. I took the car back to the repair shop and they told me my 6 month warranty did not cover that issue cause it was not a engine problem; they said they can look at the car but to even look at it was another $150. I think they are wrong and trying to get more $ out of me so I declined and now my 6 month warranty is expired and i still have the issue. When the car is in idle the rpms are very normal and when driving the rpms are normal. What it could be?
View 11 Replies
I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima SV that has poor gas mileage. I took it to Nissan to get checked out but they said there's nothing they could do because the car is showing no codes or no check engine light. I got my spark plugs changed, it seemed like it worked but a week or so later, it went back to how it was (the gas mileage). 2 weeks later, my mechanic checked the spark plugs in front of me, no rust or leaks on them. I burn a half tank of gas every 2 days and that's just driving local to work and back.
View 16 Replies
The ac compressor on my 2003 Maxima keeps going out. Mechanic says the replacements are refurbrished, as the new ones are hard to find and expensive. 143,000 on the car.
View 1 Replies
I have a misfire on the number 2 cylinder on my 97 Nissan Maxima 5spd. The computer has been changed 3 times, and it'll work for a short time after the new computer is installed, but then the problem resumes. What would cause this to happen? The coil has also been changed.
View 7 Replies
