Nissan - Maxima :: 2006 - Engine Knocking / Head Gasket Going To Fail?
Aug 8, 2014
I have 2006 Nissan Maxima SE with the 3.5 engine. I have used regular gas for the entire 88K miles. Lately the engine knocks (diesel like). I asked my guy what to do. He said a nitrogen fuel injector cleaning.... Did that. No change. When I use premium it stops. However, I suspect something more is wrong. In fact, I suspect a head gasket issue. How can I diagnose without going to the garage? If it is the head gasket, am I doomed (cost a fortune to fix).
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I just bought a 95' 3.0 V6 4 runner that had overheating issues that caused head gasket to fail. I fixed all the reasons it was blowing the gasket with a new radiator & thermo. Now, temp no longer an issue but the automatic trans is slipping but has been getting alittle better as I drive it more. I noticed the trans fluid was pretty burnned when I replaced radiator..so will replacing the trans fluid & filter fix this issue ? Or could there be another issue ? My check engine light is also on, I will check the codes soon. I am getting horrible gas mileage, but probly from the slipping trans I guess.
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I have a nissan altima 2001. I have 128,000 miles on it. I have fully paid for the car. While climbing a steep hill at 2nd gear, the engine overheated, and I seem to have broken the gasket. What are my prospects? Should I put a new engine, should I fix the gasket or should I abandon the car?
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I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima. I just had both top and bottom valve gaskets replaced due to oil seepage. About a week prior to this repair, I noticed the car would have trouble starting, but it was very intermittent.Now I am experiencing the starting issue 50% or more of the time when trying to start.I'm horrible at describing the actual issue, but I am going to try. I turn the key and it has trouble turning over quickly. No tinking or clicking or anything like that. I have had the battery and alternator checked and both are fine. When i had the valve gaskets replaced, the shop i used checked the starter and told me it was o.k. I'm really having a tough time figuring this out and don't want to get "taken for a ride" money wise.
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2004 Sentra, 100K, rough starting, running good. Dealer diagnosed Head Gasket leak, #3 cyl. misfire. $!300+ est. No can do.I added K&W Head Gasket&Block Sealant, per instructions. Filled radiator and reservoir with 50/50 coolant.Car start improved but CAR NOW OVERHEATS after 15 min. driving. Blasting heat brings guage to normal zone.DID SEALANT CLOG SYSTEM? How doI diagnose? What to check next?
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I have a 06' JGC with the 5.7L Hemi w/80k and about a month ago I noticed a little smoke under the hood after driving, I found an oil leak and it's running down the passenger side of the rear main seal but the leak is above the seal. I had the shop put die in it and they dont know for sure but they belive it is the head gasket. There is no water in the oil but they said that doesnt matter. Apparently the heads cant be resurfaced on hemi's but they have to be checked to make sure they are in spec.
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A year ago (to the day), my car (2006 Hyundai Sonata) died on me while I was driving it. My boyfriend came and gave me a jump. The car got home fine. The next morning, we went out to the car, and the battery had died, so we jumped the car again, and got to the battery place and bought a new battery. I was worried there was another issue with the car- but my boyfriend was all like "You are feeble woman who knows nothing about cars" (kidding, kidding) so I listened to him and drove the car off that afternoon. On my way home, car died again. So, this time, we got the car towed to a dealership to get checked out. Well, turns out the head gasket was leaking and there was oil in the alternator. SOOOO. The dealer replaced the head gasket for free because the car had a warranty on the engine, but we were SOL with the alternator. So, we bought an alternator from a friend, and had another friend install it for us.
Yesterday, I got out of work, and car wouldn't start. When my DF came to jump the car, he and I could clearly see the head gasket is leaking again and there is oil in the alternator. I have a couple questions that I need answered...
1.) What causes a leaky head gasket? My boyfriend said that either the engine block was warped or that the replacement they put in last year was faulty. Are there other ways?
2.) How the beep do you replace the alternator in the 2006 Hyundai? It is in an odd location and we don't have access to the person who did it for us last time, so I need to see if this is a job my boyfriend can do. He does work on his car all the time (an 87 BMW), but he's never done anything on this car besides change oil, etc.
A little bit about this car: We bought the car from a Hyundai dealer in June 2010. It belonged to one of the dealer investors, so it was in great condition. However, we think the car was in a front-end accident. When my boyfriend waxed the car awhile back, it was pretty obvious that the front bumper was replaced as well. The dealer refuses to give us any mechanical records about the car (will only give us verbal summary) ...
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i have a 06 explorer with the 4.0 V6. 4x4 XLT with 106xxx miles. i just bought this thing back in January. of corse, i didn't get an ext warranty. well the past couple months its been loosing power, its got a stumble and seems sluggish. its losing water. no water in oil, no oil in water, don't smell coolant in the exhaust. yesterday i went out and looked and found at front of head on pass side at front cyl, there was coolant from head gasket down the block and also in the valley of the block. i started the engine and once warm, everything was dry. shut it off after about 20 minutes and still nothing wet. this afternoon the only wet spot was in the valley which was dry after running yesterday. is there anything else i can check before tearing it down? with the water in the valley, it looks like it could be coming from the thermo housing.
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester (auto trans) with 97,000 miles on it. It's behaving badly, and here are its symptoms:1. It is getting worse gas mileage now than it has in the past 5 years I've owned it. Up until the last few months, I've been able to get about 26 mpg on average. Since Sept. or Oct., I've only been getting about 21 mpg.2. It shifts rough on a cold start when it shifts into 3rd and/or 4th. No rough shifting is noticed when the car is started on a moderate or warm day (roughly 35 degrees outside or warmer).3. When doing mountain driving (specifically u to a hill at highway speeds that is about 10 miles long and a sustained 7%-10% grade), the engine temp rises to about 2/3 according to the gauge on the dash. (Under normal driving conditions it sits at about 1/3.)
I took the car to my mechanic and here's what they said:
1. The gas mileage on Subaru Foresters frequently isn't much higher than 22 mpg, so for the first 5 years, I owned the car I was just lucky.
2. The fluids need to be flushed and changed: differential, transmission, etc. - approximate cost $400
3. He's almost certain that the cause of the 3rd problem is blown head gaskets, and the cost of that is about $3000.
If the head gaskets are truly the culprit, is it a repair that needs immediate attention or is it something I can delay for a while?
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Recently the timing belt slipped and in turn shot several valves. After replacing the head and gaskets there is a small oil leak between the head and block. Can i tighten that head bolt a little? What is the best solution?
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Have a 2006 F150, head gasket leaking bad. It is the drivers side head. How many hours this job is? and does the engine have to come out or the cab have to come off? Has a 5.4L Engine.
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Okay so I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima 150k and the problem that I'm experiencing is that when the vehicle is in drive my foot on the brake for example at a red light and I have the AC on the engine will begin to stumble similar to a misfire however no check engine light will be displayed if I were to turn the AC off and sit at a red light in here with my foot on the brake the car idles fine and smooth the car currentl drives fine accelerates fine idles fine it's only when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake and the car and in drive with the AC on that the engine stumbles accelerating or cruising any speed above idle with a/c the runs smooth its only at idle and the simple is not predictable it happens often but at random intervals
What I've done so far 1.5 years ago I put in iridium spark plugs Recently cleaned the throttle body its a electronic throttle body Fuel pump and filter were replace in March 2016I tested the alternator put a load on it to see if the engine would stumble but it didn't
My a/C blows cold air and everything in the car works.
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I just bought my 2006 Toyota Prius about a year ago in 2009. It has been treating me LIKE GOLD !!! up to this point. About a month or two ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on along with a big red triangular warning light. I let it go for about a week hoping that it would just go away.
I brought the vehicle into my local Toyota dealership so they can diagnose it.They told me that they had 3 or 4 different "codes" coming from the machine when getting the signals from the check engine light. All the codes were related to the cooling system. They said that they felt that there was "debris" clogging the pathway for the coolant flow throughout the engine. They had recommended a "coolant flush" for the hybrid side as well as the mechanical side. So I took their advice and I had them perform the coolant flushes.
After leaving the dealership that 1st time, the check engine light came back on the next day. I called the same dealership and explained it to them. They asked me to bring it in again. SO I brought it to them a 2nd time. They diagnosed it again. They told me they came up with 2 of the SAME "codes" and 1 that was different, but ALL the codes were STILL related to the cooling system. They explained to me that something was preventing the clear flow of coolant throughout the engine. And since the thermostat was the only major obstacle, they recommended that I replace it. Well, I did. And after I left the dealership that 2nd time, I was praying that this was the last of my Prius issues! The check engine light came back on the next day.
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i have a 2008 maxima with 30000+ miles. its service engine soon light came on recently. i disconnected the battery the light would go off, but would come back on again after a few days. it happened several times now. once i got a code P0011 from autozone while the light was on. the last time the light was on was a week ago and this time the light finally went off by itself yesterday. i took my car to a dealer today. a service advisor told me the reading on his code-reader is NO CODE and the car is fine!. so what have happened and what is wrong with it? could it be serious?
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I just purchased a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE with 219,000 miles. I've had it less than two weeks, and the Service Engine Soon light just came on. I live somewhere that requires emissions testing in order to register the vehicle. My temporary plate will expire soon, so I need to get the car to pass emissions.
This is my first Japanese car and first non-American vehicle. I didn't know until after I had given the check to the guy selling the car that he used premium gas. He said that Nissan recommends it. I've never driven a car that required premium gas before and wasn't keen on the idea since here, it is 40¢ a gallon more expensive than regular unleaded.
I spoke with my landlord about it, as he is a certified Honda mechanic. He told me to first try getting half a tank of regular unleaded and putting it in with some fuel injector cleaner. He said if I didn't notice any decrease in performance or knocks, to then just add a bottle of of fuel injector cleaner to every other tank of gas.
I got a half tank of regular unleaded with a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and didn't have any issues. I then filled the tank with regular without any fuel injector cleaner. I used about ¾ of that tank when the service engine soon light came on. I took the car to Valvoline to get the codes read, and while they couldn't give me any code numbers, they said it was something to do with emissions.
Here are my questions:
Is it possible the light came on because I switched from premium to regular unleaded or perhaps because I would need to add fuel injector cleaner to every tank of gas I get and not every other tank as my landlord said he does with his car?
Should I try either adding fuel injector cleaner to every tank of gas or just switch back to premium? If I try either of those, and one of those was the problem, how long would it take for the Service Engine Soon light to turn off?
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I'm going to be doing head gaskets on my 2006 F350 6.0. I know I need the head bolt tool and head lifting fixture. I have the tool to release the injector wiring plug from the head. Are there any other specialty tools I need? I saw in Hot Rod magazine a few months ago there was a new head gasket for the 6.0. Unfortunately I don't have the magazine anymore. I can't remember the brand of gasket. I know everyone in the past has said use OEM Ford head gaskets. Lastly, can I do the head gasket job and put studs in without pulling the cab or HVAC box?
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I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima 134k and i bought it with the p0300 check engine light on a looked at the engine and though it was an air box problem because they had previously installed a K&n filter so I went to the junk yard and got a 2000 nissan maxima air box and new filter i changed the oil and checked the spark plugs they look new and the dates on the coils are 2012 and 2013 and still its misfiring. i bought it to a mechanic and he discovered a vacuum tank had previously broke and they glued back together so i replace that with a factory one today same problem still misfiring but it got better but now its a p0306 then i erased the code and p0304 came back i erased it then p0302 came back then i change the cam sensors, and the crankshaft sensor and now it get a p0300.
Symptoms:
*when sitting for a long time HARD TO START ( takes multiple cranks to start it ) but once i leave it off for short time like 30 min it starts right up no problem
* when stop at a stop light in drive i can feel small little explosions sounds like my car is beat boxing
*performance is strong good acceleration no problem on that i just don't want it misfiring
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I own a 2002 Maxima that has 216K miles on it; the engine has begun to randomly sputter (never turning off), and, when this is happening and the accelerator is intermittently depressed, the tachometer does not register any increase in RPMs, plus the car does not pull itself forward. Yet occasionally the engine does rev itself, and the car lunges forward. Also, the dashboard has highlighted the ABS light, battery light, and brake light in a flashing manner at times while this is occuring. Have checked the 3-1/2 month old battery, transmission, and alternator, and all are working fine...while the car is behaving, mind you. Also, have put a gas treatment in the tank to dispel the bad gasoline notion. My mechanic has said it's registering 17 volts, when it should register 14 volts, but he hasn't identified the source. What's going on?
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I am replacing the head gaskets on a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 .... I have heard that I should replace the head bolts with studs. Do I torque the studs just like the bolts?
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I have a hyundai elantra 2005 with over 200K mi. last month it started overheating. I could not go a mile before it reached H again. No one could find any leaks and fan would go on if I put the AC on. Yet it would get so hot the car wouldn't start ( sounded like it was out of gas) I finally got to my mechanic and they said and showed me the fan had cracked and was bubbling water/coolant out. It had been okay could I have made it crack by still driving it? I stopped everytime and let it cool down..
They replaced fan but car was still going to H immediately. They then told me I had blown the head gasket. Between that and the fan it cost me 1100.00 I just got it back today and the AC is blowing hot air and it is driving oddly. It lurches and the tach sometimes jumps to 3 while I'm driving. they also replaced the timing belt again which the mechanic there had just did a few months ago. It feels like its going to stall out all the time and when I get around the 60 mph mark it lurches or feels like its not even in gear as though I'm revving it. Could this be normal because the head gasket is new and has to break in?
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I just bought a used 5.4 for my 99' F150 4X4. My current engine has a blown head gasket. Anyway, I was able to hear the engine run before I bought it, and was able to check it out some. (oil, anti-freeze) I was told that this engine was bought from a salvage yard with 50K, and 50K more put on it before I bought it.
I was also told that the intake manifold is newer, from Autozone, and it has newer Accell coils. My question for you all, is ..... What do YOU think I should do otherwise before I install this engine. Oil pump? water pump? seals? ...
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