Nissan - Maxima :: 2003 - Hard Starting After Sitting And Code P0300
May 23, 2014
I bought a 2003 nissan maxima with 135k and it had a p0300 it had a performance k&n filter on it so i though someone might have installed it wrong or what ever so i bought the car cheap. i have replace the k&n filter with a stock 2000 nissan maxima air box with new filter i got from the junkyard it worked for the misfire calm down a little then i bought the car to a mechanic and he said because of my hard starting it could be a cam senor or crank senors so I've replaced that still no luck then he pulled out the spark plugs and they were sooty black but when i bought the car i checked and they were brand new so i swap them out with ngk platinum spark plugs then work a little but still same problem. i had a p0302,p0304,p0306 when i clear the p0300 but usually its all ways a p0300, its been a month and I am still driving like this.
SYMPTOMS:
Hard starting after 20 mins of sitting
I can smell gas from the driver seat when i start the car and open the window
Exhaust air isn't smooth but in pops
Getting like 14-15 mpg in city
When stopped at a stop light i can feel the car misfiring
WHAT I HAVE REPLACED:
Front bay 3 ngk spark plugs cylinders 2,4,6
Cylinder 4 coil
Air box
Cam sensor and crankshaft senor
Coolant temperature sensor
Battery
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OK so my 2003 Nissan maxima is hard to start all the time after its been sitting for a few minutes like 30min or more also I'm getting a CEL light.
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Car is hard to start when sitting about 9 hours or longer to a day without being started up it is hard to crank over, I am at a loss to what is causing it, the car has a new battery, new distributor rotor w/wires and cap, my car is an 1993 Nissan stanza ALTIMA GXE w/automatic seat-belts, the car is fully loaded Except for sun roof or heated seats, I do have 242360+ miles on the car. I kept the car well maintained from Nissan, and they can't find anything wrong with it. is this the case of just old age on the cars behalf? what I do notice is there's a slight drop in voltage reading on battery the night before to the next day, can a starter be my problem??
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What would make brakes sqeak? Especially when car has been sitting awhile.
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I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima that dies after sitting and idling for around ten minutes. It also has been dying at stoplights, etc. It runs fine if I get the rpms above 1000. When it dies it restarts but often I have to push the pedal to the floor for a few seconds, then it seems to catch and run as long at the rpms are up. I have taken it to a place and due to it's age they couldn't do a diagnostic check on it. I've had the exhaust system replaced (it needed it), the spark plugs replaced, the coolant temperature sensor replaced but still no luck.
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So my Nissan emits a loud (way louder than normal) "vroom" when I start it up and then idles back. Also, sometimes the tach needle jumps high and then falls, sometimes almost seems like the car might turn off. I have a knock sensor code on and nothing else. I was due for state inspection and the guy told me that my exhaust was warped and said that it was too loud and I will fail the inspection (I think he meant on the noise level as he did not do any diagnostics.
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Lately, I've noticed that my car starts fine in cold weather. But, once I put the car into drive or reverse, it stalls. Also, once I start the car let my foot on gas for few min, and then put into drive or reverse, it drives fine.
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I have a 1997 f-150, V-6 absolutely base model, a shade under 80,000 miles. I'm the second owner, and the truck was previously garaged most of the time but now sits out in the driveway. The truck has developed an issue where it will be increasingly hard to start (crank crank crank, intermittent cough) after it sits out in hot weather, which is a problem here in Southern California. When the problem is really bad, it can take all day to get it started (try, wait a bit, try again, etc.). When it does finally catch, it sometimes backfires, idles rough for a few seconds then runs like a champ. I can turn it off and restart it immediately, I can let it sit for an hour or three and restart it, but if it sits out in hot weather it gets increasingly hard to start.
I've scoured various forums, and I've tried every solution I can find. Cycling the key to get fuel in the rail, opening the hood to cool off the engine cavity, trying to start it before it gets hot outside, etc. The truck *is* throwing code p0443, and scouring other forums I think that's either the evap canister purge valve, which my last mechanic replaced, or possibly the charcoal canister, which has not been replaced, but I don't know if that could be contributing (the truck was throwing that code before the hard start developed).
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OK so when I'm driving on freeways or highways and I have to break hard for some reason my steering wheel always pulls in some direction I don't want it to go. forcing me to hold it straight I've lived with this problem for a while but I'm doing 500 miles trips this weekend in the car and am concerned about if I had to brake at higher speeds etc., what might cause my steering wheel to pull left and right... 2003 nissan maxima ...
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The car wouldn't start ( just cranked a lot) I had the car towed to a local mechanic. He replaced the MAP sensor and now I've noticed 2 new problems.
1) engine idle rpms are erratic. When the car is started RPMs are at 1,500 after a few minutes they drop to normal range of 700 to 900 RPMs sometimes they drop too low and the car stalls. sometimes the RPMs surge up and down from 800 to 1,200 rpms.
2) very hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear. All the other shifts are normal. He said that he adjusted the RPMs because they were too high. I don't know how he did that because I thought that you couldn't adjust them because they are controlled by the computer.
Some other info, it has an exhaust leak (which Im going to fix) upstream of the O2 sensor, where the resonator connects to the headers. I replaced a rear brake line and while bleeding the lines I got brake fluid on the ABS wheel speed sensors. I replaced the coolant bypass hose and got water all over part of the engine compartment. It was immediately after I replaced that hose that the car wouldn't start.
Could the exhaust leak be the cause of the erratic idle rpms? Could water have gotten in a wire connector or shorted something out when I replaced the bypass hose? The bypass hose is directly above the transmission. My biggest concern is the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
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Just recently bought a 07 Nissan Maxima SE. Has a few issues.
The car sun roof does not work at all. It worked the day I bought it though.
Has issues turning on. Cranks slowly then after a few seconds of struggle it turns. Didn't have this issue when I bought it.
Goes idle when first starting to drive. From park, I put the car in drive, or reverse, and let go of the brake, it basically does nothing. Engine is on as if it were in park or neutral, but the car doesnt move. When I press the gas it takes a few seconds before it decides to actually move.
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Keep getting the P0420 code on this vehicle. Have changed air filter, spark plugs, run fuel injector cleaner through the tank on Shell 93 octane fuel. Drove 430 highway miles to clean out the carbon and the SES light is still on and when we check the code it says Catalyst system effiency below threshold bank 1. How do i get this fixed?
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My 2000 Nissan Maxima has a PO430 code for the catalytic converter that has been going on and off for over 1 year now. My ? is, how would I know that the converter needs replacing? Someone said there wouldn't be any smell necessarily, someone else said I would be leaking qts. of oil in between changes and someone else said it would get bad mileage. Each one debunks the others comments etc. Also just for info., this car had the ses light come on at 57K miles, my brother replaced 2 of the O2 sensors and I replaced 2 also, one duplicate one and a mass air flow as well.
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I recently had issues with P1320 code, and after replacing a bad ignition coil by a local auto mechanic, the CEL went away. While changing the one bad ignition coil, he also changed all the spark plugs.
However, after driving for about 1000 miles, I started hearing this noise which is persistent, and I'm hesitant to drive it further without knowing if driving in this condition would cause any further damage.
What could be going wrong here for this noise. I tried to attach the video I captured, but couldn't.
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My Nissan Maxima GLE 2000 is showing CEL with code of P1320 ONLY, and the car is running rough/or loss of power. The shop that checked for the code advised that it could be something related to Ignition, and also provided me with the system generated list of reasons for the code. Before I decide to do anything, I wanted to check what option I have to address this in a most cost effective manner:
1) Is there a quick way to check which coil would have gone bad ?
2) Is it advisable to change 1 LH and 1RH at a time, and see if it fixes the problem ?
3) Could it be cam shaft sensor that could have gone bad ? Are there any symptoms of cam shaft sensor failure to isolate it to one way or the other ?
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The ac compressor on my 2003 Maxima keeps going out. Mechanic says the replacements are refurbrished, as the new ones are hard to find and expensive. 143,000 on the car.
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Okay so I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima 150k and the problem that I'm experiencing is that when the vehicle is in drive my foot on the brake for example at a red light and I have the AC on the engine will begin to stumble similar to a misfire however no check engine light will be displayed if I were to turn the AC off and sit at a red light in here with my foot on the brake the car idles fine and smooth the car currentl drives fine accelerates fine idles fine it's only when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake and the car and in drive with the AC on that the engine stumbles accelerating or cruising any speed above idle with a/c the runs smooth its only at idle and the simple is not predictable it happens often but at random intervals
What I've done so far 1.5 years ago I put in iridium spark plugs Recently cleaned the throttle body its a electronic throttle body Fuel pump and filter were replace in March 2016I tested the alternator put a load on it to see if the engine would stumble but it didn't
My a/C blows cold air and everything in the car works.
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Okay so I recently replace the rear shock absorbers and now every time I take a corner or when I'm going on a surface that's not flat or just if I go over a bump too quick. I here squeaking sounds I replace the shock absorber as well as the strut mount to no avail I've found the noise I've located location of the squeak if where coil meets the mount. I don't want to replace the coil it does look like it might need some replacing the protective metal sheet is gone on the top some of the bare metal is exposed but I would hate to replace the spring and have noise again
Car is a 2003 nissan maxima with 144k ....
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I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima 134k and i bought it with the p0300 check engine light on a looked at the engine and though it was an air box problem because they had previously installed a K&n filter so I went to the junk yard and got a 2000 nissan maxima air box and new filter i changed the oil and checked the spark plugs they look new and the dates on the coils are 2012 and 2013 and still its misfiring. i bought it to a mechanic and he discovered a vacuum tank had previously broke and they glued back together so i replace that with a factory one today same problem still misfiring but it got better but now its a p0306 then i erased the code and p0304 came back i erased it then p0302 came back then i change the cam sensors, and the crankshaft sensor and now it get a p0300.
Symptoms:
*when sitting for a long time HARD TO START ( takes multiple cranks to start it ) but once i leave it off for short time like 30 min it starts right up no problem
* when stop at a stop light in drive i can feel small little explosions sounds like my car is beat boxing
*performance is strong good acceleration no problem on that i just don't want it misfiring
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I have a 2003 Nissan maxima and at first it used to shake at around 50mph, took it to the shop they looked into the suspension, did wheel balance, changed 2 front tires and wheel alignment and they said it should be fixed. A week later, it started shacking at around 70 mph, what else should I do to get ride of this problem?
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I just recently replaced all 4 struts on a 2003 Nissan maxima with 144k and the front are fine its just the back drivers side it makes a clunk every time I hit a big pot hole or a medium sized bump the shocks are doing there job the car feels great its just I have excessive noise the top strut mount nuts were torqued in place and so was the bottom. When I put my hands on the rear driver side quarter panel and start bouncing the car it makes no sounds its only when I start driving. The strut came with the bump stop the only thing I reused was the spring and mount and bushings in between but I took pics of the strut before I compressed it and took it a apart everything is where it supposed to be I'm puzzled...
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