1994 Maxima SE 5 speed manual with 178k runs great when engine is cold, then a cylinder starts missing. Symptom is worse in low gears. Then, miles and miles without a miss. Replaced rear ignition coil and it seemed to fix the problem... for about 20 miles, then it started missing again. And stops missing… for miles.
View 2 RepliesMy 98 Maxima won't idle without dying, it sputters when you accelerate, and it tries to die while coasting. I've changed two O2 sensors (AutoZone gave me the code for bank 1 sensor 1 & 2) changed spark plugs, tried fuel injector cleaner, oil change, and cleaned MAF sensor & checked the wiring. It;s still spitting out the black exhaust. Although after changing the O2 sensors it quit for about a day or two but started again (I'm guessing the other sensors need to be changed to) But the main problem is once it warms up, it really runs like crap, and is a major gas hog. I'm getting about 12 Mpg.
View 19 Repliesmy car won't start. It would try to turn over occasionally, The battery checks out. i tried to jump start it bypassing the battery with no results. multimeter reads current though cable going from battery to alternator. what is wrong with my car??
View 2 RepliesI have Nissan Maxima 1997, yesterday I was not able to start my car and so my mechanic replaced Starter. After replacing starter car is starting but now when I start driving it just starts for few feet's and stops suddenly. When it stops engine also stops, I can start car again and it again drives and than stop completely. This is happening continuously when I do reverse or fwd driving both. I suspect that this has something to do with replacement of Starter, during replacement my mechanic dismantle few things to reach the starter and I doubt that some part is not loose and not plugged in properly. I never faced this issue in the past.
View 12 Replies1990 Maxima. The car hesitates/surges occassionally after warm start, but only surges for about first 1/4 mile, then its OK. Sometimes it idles low, especially when I come to a stop and apply brakes hard. I believe the two issues are related. This has been getting progressively worse over past few years.
View 3 RepliesI have a misfire on the number 2 cylinder on my 97 Nissan Maxima 5spd. The computer has been changed 3 times, and it'll work for a short time after the new computer is installed, but then the problem resumes. What would cause this to happen? The coil has also been changed.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 Nissan Maxima GLE. I had had problems with it misfiring. It said it was misfiring on cylinder 6. Put all new spark plugs on it, same problem. Put new ignition coils, still same problem. Had it checked by several mechanics. NONE of them could find why it wasn't getting power. Then about 2 weeks ago I was driving it home & it died. Got it started & it drove less than a mile & died again. when it died that time, I suddenly had NO POWER to anything in the car. Lights don't work, no horn, no radio, no beeping when key is inserted--NOTHING. if I let it sit for a day or two, it will start clicking & then interior lights will come on--until I put the key in it & turn it over. Then I am back to no power. It does not crank or anything when I turn the key over. I have had the battery checked and they said it is still good, had 100% charge--even after being off the car for over 24 hours. I have been wondering if it is the ignition switch or starter...
View 19 Replies1990 Maxima..245,000 miles...car idles fine except when sitting at stoplight for more than 15 seconds, then idle starts to drop slowly and become unstable. Then there is a separate issue: After putting the car in Park (after warming up) the car will drop/surge from approximately 1500 to 1800 rpms three times and then go back down to normal (I am guessing transmission clutch).
View 3 RepliesMy car has suddenly started stalling a lot. I can get it to start right up if I put the clutch to the floor and it will idle fine until I start coming up of the clutch even while it in neutral. At times it will idle in neutral then start to idle rough and stall. I can drive it in reverse but can't drive it forward except in first if i keep the clutch at a certain point and not release it all the way. However when I try other gears sometimes it's like it does't want to go stalls. What it might be?
View 1 RepliesMy daughter has a 1993 maxima SE (3.0 DOHC) that ran ok until one day when she left work and started the car it was running very rough (missing and sputtering). She had the car towed here and I looked it over,it had a lot of visible problems which I have fixed (cracked coil packs,leaking valve cover gaskets, filthy fuel filter,clogged pcv valve, oil saturated air filter,spark plugs burned down to nubs etc, I replaced all those obviously defective parts) but the car still idles very rough, idles too low RPMs (400-500 rpms), exhaust smells like raw fuel and it only gets 5 miles to the gallon on my last test drive.
I removed the intake manifold to get to the rear fuel injectors to see if they might be stuck open and leaking.The car had been sitting for about 5 days with the battery disconnected and when I removed the first injector there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.I left the injector out overnight and the next morning there was fuel all over the top of the engine and in the fuel rail.I put the injector back in and unbolted the rail,I reconnected the battery and turned the key to start the fuel pump.I waited for about 3-4 minutes and did not see any fuel leaking from the injectors.I turned the key off and removed it from the ignition,disconnected the battery and bolted the fuel rail back down.I again removed one of the injectors and there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.After about 2 minutes, with the key out of the ignition and the battery disconnected,I saw fuel start filling the rail and the injector port, so I quickly put the injector back in.
I`m thinking the next step would be to replace the fuel pressure regulator and recheck the injectors for leaks.Am I on the right track here with the pressure regulator? What could be causing the car to suddenly start acting this way, my daughter said the car ran fine on her way to work ( although I hardly think it could have been running "fine" with cracked coil packs,clogged air filter,worn plugs etc)...
1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
My Nissan Maxima GLE 2000 is showing CEL with code of P1320 ONLY, and the car is running rough/or loss of power. The shop that checked for the code advised that it could be something related to Ignition, and also provided me with the system generated list of reasons for the code. Before I decide to do anything, I wanted to check what option I have to address this in a most cost effective manner:
1) Is there a quick way to check which coil would have gone bad ?
2) Is it advisable to change 1 LH and 1RH at a time, and see if it fixes the problem ?
3) Could it be cam shaft sensor that could have gone bad ? Are there any symptoms of cam shaft sensor failure to isolate it to one way or the other ?
Having some problems with my 92 Nissan NX2000. i just finished changing the clutch on the car now its acting horrible.
When i start the car, it will run decent for like 2 or 3 seconds then the idle drops down till it almost dies, catches itself, idle goes up to about 500 were it will pulse around for a few seconds until it dies. If i rev it it will stay running, kept it running for about 2 mins. but as soon as i let off it will pulse at 500 until it dies
After i changed the clutch it started up fine, it ran great for about 20 seconds before it just died. when i started it after is when the problem arose.
I took a video of the car running, which can be seen here. [URL] .... (It has never caught itself like that before and jumped up to 1000 rpms before. It normally will die at that point)
The video is really quiet, not sure what happened there. if need be i can get a video of the engine bay so its louder, was mainly focused on the RPMs.
Here's a few things i tried: Checked fuses, Changed spark plug wires, made sure they were all seated good, MAF wires were rubbed a bit so i cut the MAF pigtail off one of my other sentras and soldered it on,Changed to a good battery, Changed fuel filter, Added more gas (in cause gauge is broken), Made sure all connectors are plugged in, Checked around for vacuum leaks, found that one of the large hoses coming off the intake going to the engine had separated so i plugged them back in and nothing.
'88 Ranger 2.9L V6 starts and runs but shuddering. Most noticeable when shifting and revving the engine. Will a dead cylinder cause this? How do I check?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
I have a 2005 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl. and have a misfire problem with the 1st cylinder. I've had it pressure checked and there isn't a problem with the cylinder, such as a ring or warping problem. I've replaced the wires, both boots, both ignition coils and the plugs twice. I was told I need to replace the ignition coil again but I wonder if there is something that is making the coil go bad. I've also replace the throttle position sensor and both O2 sensors. I had the front catalytic converter replaced because it was bogging down and very slow. It still runs rough and the check engine light is on. I was told also that I need to replace the engine speed sensor. I bought the car in Oct. of 2004 and only has 68000 miles on it.
View 2 RepliesI bought a '99 MX-5 in the fall with 100000 miles on it. Most of the time it runs fine. But about every two weeks when I go to start it it will run real rough like its only hitting on three cylinders then will eventually smooth out after anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes. But today it wouldn't start at all. Finally started just fine after trying for 15 min. My mechanic changed the EGR valve but it hasn't worked. The check engine lite stays on all the time but when it starts rough the lite will flash.
View 3 RepliesCar starts runs rough for a few seconds then shuts off (spark plugs and 2 coils were replaced a few months ago). Coolant reservoir level was way low so I filled to the full line, kept the cap off to cycle. During the time the car starts, the coolant from the reservoir violently "boils" over (out of the reservoir). Huge amount of white smoke from the rear exhaust and a burning smell.
Used Techstream and got the following codes:
Engine and ECT: P0117, P0302, P3190, P3191
Hybrid Control: P0A0F
Intermittently get misfile codes but this time around they did not return.
I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
View 13 Replies3.0, SOHC engine...car started for coolant system leak check. Idle jumped to. 3000 RPMs. Shut car off...disconnected throttle cable from throttle body. Started car again, engine ran normally, no coolant leak found. Reconnected accelertor cable to throttle body. Tried starting car again, started rough then died after a few seconds. Changed fuel filter...disconnected fuel line to fuel rail and lots of comes out. MFI solenoid inside car clicks several times after engine dies. Engine tries to run, but wont, after it dies. ECU bad? Other issue?
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