1993 Nissan maxima
The battery went dead so I put a new battery in and a few days later I had the hood open and I had my wife start the car. I heard a loud cracking sound and saw a large bright blueish flash above and between the starter solenoid and the body of the starter.I had my wife turn the car off and start it again and it did the same thing again.
What the heck is going on?
My 1993 Maxima at times will not start. There is no rhyme or reason for it not starting. Either that or I have not found a particular reason or reasons for why it will not start. Sometime it is over night and at times it may happen when it sat for a couple of hours. Took it to a garage which they check the battery, starter, ignition switch, starter relay and all was okay.
View 3 RepliesI've a 2004 Maxima automatic SL. In early June I had just filled up my tank at gas station and tried to start car. DEAD SILENCE altho dashboard lights came on. Repeat turning key several times to same nothing result. AAA mechanic arrives. Jumps my car to no effect. Tells me he's going to hit my starter and for me to turn ignition. Immediately starts normally. Car starts fine for 2 weeks. Then dead again in a parking lot. AAA mechanic does same thing n car starts up immediately.
I take car to Nissan dealer and he refuses to do anything since car is now working fine and he won't be able to locate problem. I call another dealer and explain situation and he gives me same response. I'm told to have car towed in next time its having problem. Another couple weeks go by and once again comatose after another fillup. I'm curious so this time I tap my starter a few times with the little umbrella I keep in my car as the gas jockey stares at me in disbelief. I get back in car and starts right up.
My daughter has a 1993 maxima SE (3.0 DOHC) that ran ok until one day when she left work and started the car it was running very rough (missing and sputtering). She had the car towed here and I looked it over,it had a lot of visible problems which I have fixed (cracked coil packs,leaking valve cover gaskets, filthy fuel filter,clogged pcv valve, oil saturated air filter,spark plugs burned down to nubs etc, I replaced all those obviously defective parts) but the car still idles very rough, idles too low RPMs (400-500 rpms), exhaust smells like raw fuel and it only gets 5 miles to the gallon on my last test drive.
I removed the intake manifold to get to the rear fuel injectors to see if they might be stuck open and leaking.The car had been sitting for about 5 days with the battery disconnected and when I removed the first injector there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.I left the injector out overnight and the next morning there was fuel all over the top of the engine and in the fuel rail.I put the injector back in and unbolted the rail,I reconnected the battery and turned the key to start the fuel pump.I waited for about 3-4 minutes and did not see any fuel leaking from the injectors.I turned the key off and removed it from the ignition,disconnected the battery and bolted the fuel rail back down.I again removed one of the injectors and there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.After about 2 minutes, with the key out of the ignition and the battery disconnected,I saw fuel start filling the rail and the injector port, so I quickly put the injector back in.
I`m thinking the next step would be to replace the fuel pressure regulator and recheck the injectors for leaks.Am I on the right track here with the pressure regulator? What could be causing the car to suddenly start acting this way, my daughter said the car ran fine on her way to work ( although I hardly think it could have been running "fine" with cracked coil packs,clogged air filter,worn plugs etc)...
1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima. The starter will not engage (no noise at all) when the outside temperature is below 60 degrees. All of the electrical is functional, but when I turn on the starter, there is no click sound or any indication that the starter attempted to engage. The car is a manual transmission, so I push start the car, and there is no squeal when the car starts so the starter gear was not touching the flywheel. Above 60 degrees, everything works normally. I have replaced the starter motor and solenoid, replaced the battery, but the problem persists.
View 5 RepliesThe car wouldn't start ( just cranked a lot) I had the car towed to a local mechanic. He replaced the MAP sensor and now I've noticed 2 new problems.
1) engine idle rpms are erratic. When the car is started RPMs are at 1,500 after a few minutes they drop to normal range of 700 to 900 RPMs sometimes they drop too low and the car stalls. sometimes the RPMs surge up and down from 800 to 1,200 rpms.
2) very hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear. All the other shifts are normal. He said that he adjusted the RPMs because they were too high. I don't know how he did that because I thought that you couldn't adjust them because they are controlled by the computer.
Some other info, it has an exhaust leak (which Im going to fix) upstream of the O2 sensor, where the resonator connects to the headers. I replaced a rear brake line and while bleeding the lines I got brake fluid on the ABS wheel speed sensors. I replaced the coolant bypass hose and got water all over part of the engine compartment. It was immediately after I replaced that hose that the car wouldn't start.
Could the exhaust leak be the cause of the erratic idle rpms? Could water have gotten in a wire connector or shorted something out when I replaced the bypass hose? The bypass hose is directly above the transmission. My biggest concern is the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a '93 nissan pathfinder with a starter problem: frequently when I turn the key nothing happens.My mechanic has replaced the starter twice, replaced the battery, the battery cables and most recently replaced the starter relay, all to no effect. They also tested the alternator, after replacing the battery didn't solve the problem, but the battery is getting a charge.
2 symptoms:first, it starts consistently when the engine is cold, fails frequently when the engine is hot.2nd, when it fails I bump the engine once or twice and then the starter system works.By bump the engine I mean:I have a stick shift, I shift into first gear, step out of the car, press the clutch down with my right foot, push the car forward getting up to perhaps 1 mph, take my foot off the clutch to transfer the energy to the engine in a 'bump'.
For some reason, through all of the attempts to fix the problem, this has always worked to get the starter to turn over. My mechanic doesn't know what to make of this, but it keeps me from getting stuck and requiring a tow. However this is inconvenient and I expect that one day this will stop working, so I would like to get my vehicle back to working order.
I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima SV that has poor gas mileage. I took it to Nissan to get checked out but they said there's nothing they could do because the car is showing no codes or no check engine light. I got my spark plugs changed, it seemed like it worked but a week or so later, it went back to how it was (the gas mileage). 2 weeks later, my mechanic checked the spark plugs in front of me, no rust or leaks on them. I burn a half tank of gas every 2 days and that's just driving local to work and back.
View 16 RepliesThe ac compressor on my 2003 Maxima keeps going out. Mechanic says the replacements are refurbrished, as the new ones are hard to find and expensive. 143,000 on the car.
View 1 RepliesWell I got all the wiring redone and things are looking good except for one major problem... my starter is no cranking. I am getting nothing on it. It, everything else is solid all connections check the thing is just NOT work. Where to begin to problem solve this?
View 24 RepliesI have a misfire on the number 2 cylinder on my 97 Nissan Maxima 5spd. The computer has been changed 3 times, and it'll work for a short time after the new computer is installed, but then the problem resumes. What would cause this to happen? The coil has also been changed.
View 7 Repliesmy car won't start. It would try to turn over occasionally, The battery checks out. i tried to jump start it bypassing the battery with no results. multimeter reads current though cable going from battery to alternator. what is wrong with my car??
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 Nissan Maxima, and when I brake or am moving very slowly in stop and go traffic, my car sounds like a foghorn. I am thinking maybe I need new brake pads, but I thought brakes were supposed to squeal when they are bad. I remember them squeaking a little bit, but nothing major. Then all of a sudden I'm starting to get this foghorn sound.
View 2 RepliesKeep getting the P0420 code on this vehicle. Have changed air filter, spark plugs, run fuel injector cleaner through the tank on Shell 93 octane fuel. Drove 430 highway miles to clean out the carbon and the SES light is still on and when we check the code it says Catalyst system effiency below threshold bank 1. How do i get this fixed?
View 1 Replies2002 Nissan Maxima with 118K miles. Heating and A/C buttons that turn the fan on different levels doesn't work. It will cut on/off but the setting can be on low and it always blows on high. The temp. is correct(heat or cold) on what we set...it just always blows on high no matter what we set. It is a bush button kind of setting not a dial that you turn.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Nissan Maxima and after changing the oil added Lucas Oil Stabilizer and when I went to start the car the engine shook for about 3 seconds and I was unable to start it again. Towed it to Nissan service and they said codes came up as the camshaft sensors were bad and engine was flooded and need to dry them out before testing it out. So on Monday I received a call from the service manager and he told me that they tried replacing the camshaft sensors but it would not start. He then said that his technions working on the car believe the timing chain jump causing vavles to get bent. Cause the engine has 107k the will not repair my car and recommend a new engine. I informed the service manager I find it hard to believe that any vavles could have gotten bent with the engine running only 3 seconds and had my car towed back to my house. I tried replacing the crankshaft shaft sensor and it still will not start. So before I attempt to open the timing chain cover wanted to see if the timing chain could have jumped only running for 3 seconds and to see if it might be something else? Still don't understand why after adding the oil stabilizer to the oil it would had stalled out like that when it was running so good and starting up with no problems. I read on line that Nissan has had many issues with their timing chain guides wearing out but can't see how the oil stabilizer would effect the guide.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE four-door sedan, which I purchased new. In May 2008, at 39,556 miles I had to replace the alternator. In January 2011, at 45,201 miles (+5,645 miles) I had to replace the alternator again. Now, in December 2013 at 49,630 miles (+4,429 miles) I have to replace the alternator for the third time. It just doesn’t make since that the less I drive, the more often I have to replace the alternator. The replacement alternators were remanufactured and not purchased from a Nissan dealer. Do you know what would be causing the alternators to fail? Do you think purchasing a new alternator from Nissan dealer would solve the problem?
View 11 RepliesI have checked all fuses, relays, etc that I know about. In fact, I pulled all of the fuses out and checked. The switches test good for connectivity.
The sunroof is closed, but needs to tilt up (if that makes sense) to fully close it and seat the weather strip. I have tried everything and it was working fine last week with no issue. There is no sound from the motor when the switches are pressed.
Okay so I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima 150k and the problem that I'm experiencing is that when the vehicle is in drive my foot on the brake for example at a red light and I have the AC on the engine will begin to stumble similar to a misfire however no check engine light will be displayed if I were to turn the AC off and sit at a red light in here with my foot on the brake the car idles fine and smooth the car currentl drives fine accelerates fine idles fine it's only when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake and the car and in drive with the AC on that the engine stumbles accelerating or cruising any speed above idle with a/c the runs smooth its only at idle and the simple is not predictable it happens often but at random intervals
What I've done so far 1.5 years ago I put in iridium spark plugs Recently cleaned the throttle body its a electronic throttle body Fuel pump and filter were replace in March 2016I tested the alternator put a load on it to see if the engine would stumble but it didn't
My a/C blows cold air and everything in the car works.
Recently while driving in good weather, no rain, about 35 mph my 2003 Nissan Maxima stalled. It failed to restart on the first try, but on the second, started right up without trouble and has been fine since. I took it to a garage where they could find no obvious problem. They said I might have 3 things done to potentially address the issue:
1) replace the air filter
2) do an "idle relearn procedure"
3) flush the fuel induction system.
Whether these would be a good idea, or whether I should just ignore the problem?