Nissan - Frontier :: 2005 Reeks When Driving At 55 Mph For About 20 Minutes
Jun 9, 2011
My 2005 Nissan frontier reeks badly.
Has new air filters and new cabin filters. Only seems to smell when driving at 55mph for about 20 minutes, the funk comes from the vents and in all heat/AC and fan modes seems to be less stinky in the winter.
Nothing is dead in the heater box because it does not stink in when driving around town and I have poured gallons of Lysol down the air intake during recic, open vent, etc, Smells like a mix of eggs, oil, and funk.
Dealership says it is not the catalytic converters as they "check out fine" Nissan dealership says it's bad gas, which is unlikely as when I drive away from home and I use other gas, it still smells.so what is it? What is it?
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I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is having issues. I had the distributor replaced and the knock sensor. The day I got it home it started having a weird starting issue. It has always started first crank super easy & strong. Runs GREAT.
When the truck is cool it starts right up but, when I've been driving around for a bit and turn it off, if it's a short stop starts right back up, some hesitation. If I stop for 15-45 mins it doesn't want to start. I can crank it all day and it wont start and gives a little kickback, if I crank too much the engine will smoke a bit, spits and sputters when you turn the key off. The longer it sits before I try to start it the worse it gets... around one hour is the worse. - Finally figured out if I try cranking it over several times, turn off the key and wait literally one to two minutes it starts right up super quick and strong just like when it's cool. So random and weird.
No warning lights & Nothing shows up when hooked up to the computer, fuel pump checked out OK.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier that recently had a new transmission and radiator installed due to a defect where coolant leaks into the transmission and destroys Nissan transmissions. After I got my truck back it ran fine for about 2 days, then on the third day I started it and the gauges all started going up and down at a speed of about 72 bpm. I shut it off let sit for a few minutes started it and it did this again. I repeated that about 4 times. I let it sit for about 4 hours started it and it was fine for a very short drive (1/2 mile). After about another 2 hours of sitting I tried to start and the battery was dead, my friend jumped it and it drove fine. So it sat for a few days until I had my brother jump it so I could drive to get a new battery. Once it was jumped the moving of the gauges started again.
As I was driving, the gauges kept coming on the going off. I got it to advanced auto and they replaced the battery, it started up drove it for a matter of minutes, then the gauges died and it wouldn’t drive faster than 1 MPH, then engine would rev when I hit the gas. I got it to a parking lot shut it off tried starting it the gauges would come on but as soon as I hit the gas pedal it would rev up but instantly the gauges would shut off and the engine would rev anymore. So I was stuck, got it towed to where the transmission was put in. They couldn't fix it but had to jump it to start it, so the new battery was dead. They towed it to a Nissan dealer and the mechanics are now saying it’s just a bad battery, but this just doesn't make any sense to me.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier with a manual transmission (~6500 pound towing capacity). I rented a large wood chipper this weekend. On the ride home from the rental pickup, the transmission started shuddering when shifting. It is most noticeable when shifting into first gear from a standstill, and less noticeable on each successive shift. Once the gear is fully engaged, there is no shudder - it is only when letting out the clutch that there is the shudder. The truck only has 50k miles on it.
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'99 Frontier (3.3L), 140k miles. Just had fan clutch, radiator and belts replaced. Now noticing that the a/c compressor clutch (pictured below) is noisy when the 3 discs stop spinning while I'm driving...it's a noticeable "clack" sound that I can hear with the windows UP.... is this normal? Is there any cure, like lubrication it needs? I pushed on the belts a bit, they don't seem too tight....
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I've got a 2005 Nissan Frontier that has a roar and vibration that keeps getting worse over time. It happens as long as the car is rolling, but is the loudest at around 35 and 65 mph. From the driver seat is does sound like it's coming from the front passenger side. A few months ago I was driving across a curvy road and when I got home I could smell hot brakes. I checked, and the front passenger side caliper was stuck. I rebuilt the caliper, and that seemed to free up the wheel, but didn't fix the roar. I drove a couple more weeks and found the caliper stuck again. So this time I replaced it. The wheel has been fine since, but the roar is still present. After a while I figured it was a bad wheel bearing and replaced that too. But, that didn't work. I've also taken it to a shop and had them check the alignment, to which they said it was fine. I'm still racking my brain trying to figure this out.
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Last fall I had several oil leaks on my car repaired as well as replacing the fuel pump and alternator. I also had some welding done on the tailpipe. Once the weather turned colder and I started using the heater, I noticed what I think is a oil-type odor inside the car after a few minutes or more of driving. I roll the windows down to clear out the odor and after that there is no more odor, until one of the next times I drive my car again.
It doesn't smell like exhaust fumes. I have had the exhaust system checked out by a garage who specializes in exhaust systems and they couldn't find any problems with the exhaust system. This problem doesn't happen every time I drive, but almost every time. What might be going on? I haven't noticed any oil drippings on the floor of my garage.
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Over the past couple months my car (187k miles on it) shuts off while I'm driving it, about once a week, sometimes less. It only seems to happen while driving 30 mph or less and starts back up after 5-10 min. I'm trying to sell it now and don't know how to explain what is going on with the car w/o putting someone off completely. I'm sure it's fixable, I just don't want to deal w/it anymore and need a larger vehicle.
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After driving for about 15 minutes the car starts to lurch. regardless of the speed. it gets worse if and when i accelerate. If i rev up the engine, it feels like a lose in power and also like something in the engine is skipping. I changed fuel filter under the hood and the strainer on the fuel pump (not the fuel pump) thinking they might have been clogged up and the engine wasn't getting enough fuel.
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I have a '99 Nissan Frontier 4cyl. p'up and the air conditioner kept going off. The truck has three drivebelts, all inline. The first is Crankshaft to the Power steering pump , the second goes from Crankshaft to the water-pump & the alternator and the third one goes to the air-conditioning compressor; the one that keeps coming off my truck & shutting down the A.C. I replaced it three times and the last time it went off within a couple of miles. I know the crankshaft and the A.C. compressor pulley's are out of line and believe that's my problem. A mechanic friend of mine looked at it and said he thought it was something called a belt-leveler that keeps all the belts from slipping off.
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It's a 2000 Frontier V6 4x4 CC with 104k miles. It just randomly dies going down the road. Sometimes it restarts. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I just get a small blip (loss of spark or fuel - unsure which) when going down the road then it's fine again. It seems seems like a loose connection somewhere to me but I have checked and repaired everything I can find.
A little history of problems...
Fall 2014 - Fuel Sending Unit; I had similar problems a little over a year ago and I replaced this at ~90k miles. The stock one was corroded and the fuel pump wasn't getting power. Got the part from Nissan directly. Truck ran great for a year then started having same issues in fall of 2015. I am thinking this couldn't have gone bad again in only a year, but who knows? No engine codes at the time.
December 2015 - Distributor #1; I replaced it with one from Auto Zone. Had the same problems that day. Returned that and replaced with one from Napa Distributor #2 (New - house brand - supposedly made by Altrom - which is supposedly comparable to OEM) This seemed to fix it for a little while. At the same time I did the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, a bunch of suspension work, etc. so I had the harness off. Did I knock something loose? I feel like I have checked it up and down.... doesn't seem that way.
January 2016 Bad Wire?; Same issues. Wiggling the harness into the distributor seemed to have an effect on restarting so I pulled the harness apart from the dist to the main and found a small cut on the casing of one of the ground wires. The wire was not damaged, just casing. Fixed that with a double layer of shrink tube and it ran fine again for a couple weeks. In this same period my catalytic converters also went bad. My exhaust manifolds cracked, next thing I knew I had catalytic converter codes on both sides of the engine. Ran it like this for a few months.
April 2016 Distrbutor #3 Same problem. Randomly dies. Gets progressively worse over a couple day period. I gave up and took it to a shop (Downing St. Garage in Denver, CO) They diagnosed it as a bad distributor so I had it replaced AGAIN (they were nice enough to use the Napa part I bought and get a free warranty part)
June 2016 Distributor #4 Same problem again. Still have not replaced cats - did not want to spend the money when the ignition problem seems un-related. Replaced distributor with another warranty part from NAPA. This time the one that I took off made a crunching sound when you turned it by hand.
August 2016 Finally replaced cats. CEL codes were gone for an afternoon then the truck started sputtering down the road again... CEL P1320 and CEL P0325 BACK AGAIN!
I am at a loss on what to do. I have read that the MAF sensor can get dirty... but this doesn't seem to explain the P1320. Anyway, I ordered some cleaner, a new knock sensor and another distributor (this time Nissan brand but re-manufactured... they no longer sell new ones.)
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Our mechanic is stumped. The Frontier runs hot when idling. The clutch fan and thermostat have been replaced. The radiator has been flushed. When you are driving or you turn off the A/C, the temp goes down. The next suggestion is to replace the radiator, but I'm already hundreds into this so I hate to do anything else unless I'm pretty sure it is going to fix it.
We do know that the catalytic converter needs replacing. Could this have anything to do with it?
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When I cut off the engine by mistake (shift slip ie ) the restart comes around but only after about 5 to 15 minutes . The last time this happened the car was at an intersection and this situation is getting dangeous.Why is the restart taking so long ?
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I have read two other threads that indicate a leaky head gasket for Nissan Frontiers overheating...but I'd like an opinion on my problem: I have a 1999, v6 3.3L, 4x4, manual Frontier that I have owned since 2001, always well-maintained, timing belt, water pump and thermostat already replaced a couple of years ago; currently has 129k mi. I rarely drive it (about once or twice a month).
Last time I drove it (I'm in AZ and heat was over 100 degrees) it started right up and was fine until I'd gone about 3 miles on the freeway doing about 65mph. Started to climb in temperature, but not into the red zone. I drove with it hovering just above the midway point (midway meaning perfectly normal temperature on my gauge) for a couple of more miles, when it started to climb just a bit more, I got off the freeway and dropped under 45 mph, the temperature went down to normal. I drove about 40mph back home and haven't driven it since.
I checked my coolant, which was extremely clean and not low, and was not boiling when I checked it soon after the temp went up on the freeway. What is the most likely cause?On a side note, since I do not drive it that often, what is recommended as to the gas that has been sitting in my tank since? How long does the gas stay good for? Further wondering how often it is recommended I drive it, for how long and at what sustained speed to keep my truck up and running?
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I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is a 4X4 and has the V6 engine. Mileage is 172,000+. For a few years, I have had problems with the AC no longer cooling after I drive 20 or so miles and stop the truck, go in a store and start back up only to find that the AC will not cool after the stop. This seems to happen more when the weather is hot. Only once has it gone out without stopping the car and it was on I40 driving trough Oklahoma in 100+ degree weather. Once it quits cooling, after driving 20 to 30 minutes, it usually starts to cool again. It sometimes speeds up the process if I roll the windows down.Coolant levels are fine.
So...is there a faulty sensor somewhere? What could it be that is the problem?
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We have a 2003 Nissan frontier pickup (automatic).The AC recently stopped cooling, but the fan works. It was cooling perfectly great when all of a sudden, it stopped. If we turn the AC on, the compressor (I'm guessing) starts to click and continues to click until turned off. (started to grind under hood). It's not a rattle, definitely a click as if it wants to turn on but can't make the electrical connection. It kind of sounds like when a starter has gone bad and it clicks. Except, it does it repetitively until turned off. This doesn't happen if we turn on the fan but leave the AC off. Does it sound like the compressor went out? How can we troubleshoot it?
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I have some serious vibration at about 40 to 50 MPH only when the accelerator is depressed. As soon as I let off the gas it stops. I have had the tires rotated and balanced and the U joints checked. My Mechanic says he can't figure it out and to drive it until it breaks.
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After having my oil changed at a local place, the oil pressure gauge showed "high." hoping it would go away, i drove for a week. it didn't... took it back to the shop and they said it was a little full which would cause it to show high pressure. That was earlier today. The gauge however has not changed. Still shows high oil pressure. I need to drive 400 miles tomorrow and am not sure if it is safe? Perhaps just a bad sensor??? I need to know if i can hit the road or not.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier with V6 non-supercharged engine, 4x4, with manual transmission, 150k miles. For approximately the last 30k miles, I have had a persistent shuddering in the cab when I apply the brakes slowing from about 15 to 0 MPH. It is accompanied by a low humming noise that decreases in pitch as the truck slows down. It only happens when the brakes are warm; about 70+ degrees outside or after I've been slowing down a lot. It does not seem to correspond to engine temperature, only my perceived temperature of the brakes. There is no pedal feedback, and it does not shudder when I stop using only the parking brake. It does not seem to affect stopping distance.
I first tried to fix it by doing a very thorough front/rear brake job - new pads/shoes, new rotors/drums, and repacked front wheel bearings. That had no effect on the problem. I tried rotating the tires and that had no effect. I then did a complete front end job and replaced all the bushings and balljoints via brand new pre-assembled control arm assemblies. I also replaced the tie rod assemblies, sway bar bushings/end links, and had an alignment done. That had no effect.
Based on the repairs I've done, I would assume that it is having to do with the front brakes, but is not warped rotors or anything in the front suspension.
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I have some rust building on the heat shield of my cats on my 2001 Nissan Frontier.. I had a weld done to keep it from rattling after replacing the OEM muffler. It there anything I can put on it to retard the rusting process on the shield and will that affect my emissions?
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2003 Nissan Frontier with a 4cyl engine, just over 300k.
It vibrates and starts chugging anytime it's under a small load, like going up a hill. Cruises nice and smooth on level ground or going downhill. Feels like a misfire, but idles perfectly and had new plugs/wires installed a few month ago with no problems.
So there's no service engine light, and no codes set, but when I plug my scanner into it the code P0400 appears and disappears randomly on the screen but never sets itself in the computer.
My question is, where is a good starting point? Any components known to go bad in the EGR system? And would a bad/stuck EGR valve cause these symptoms?
There is also a code set for the catalytic converter, it was catalyst efficiency below threshold but I don't remember the exact code. Any way this could be part of the problem, or related in any way?
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