Nissan - Frontier :: 2004 - Check Engine Light Came On / Go Off Then Back On
Oct 25, 2014
I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier pickup that I bought used in 2012. Shortly after I purchased it the the check engine light came on, would go off and back on. Last year (before inspection) I hooked it to the diagnostic auto scanner and it read the error as four oxygen sensors. The truck was running fine but in order to get it inspected I ended up changing all four sensors. The light came back on within the week (as soon as it rained) then would go off a few days later. Rain--on, then off. I managed to get it in for inspection on one of the days the light was off. So, now it is again inspection time. Light is on, still error on the scanner as oxygen sensors. Light has not gone off in a long time.
Also noting here that I have checked this error on several different scanners. The truck is running fine. Before I take it to the dealership is there anything else this could be?
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I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier with V6 non-supercharged engine, 4x4, with manual transmission, 150k miles. For approximately the last 30k miles, I have had a persistent shuddering in the cab when I apply the brakes slowing from about 15 to 0 MPH. It is accompanied by a low humming noise that decreases in pitch as the truck slows down. It only happens when the brakes are warm; about 70+ degrees outside or after I've been slowing down a lot. It does not seem to correspond to engine temperature, only my perceived temperature of the brakes. There is no pedal feedback, and it does not shudder when I stop using only the parking brake. It does not seem to affect stopping distance.
I first tried to fix it by doing a very thorough front/rear brake job - new pads/shoes, new rotors/drums, and repacked front wheel bearings. That had no effect on the problem. I tried rotating the tires and that had no effect. I then did a complete front end job and replaced all the bushings and balljoints via brand new pre-assembled control arm assemblies. I also replaced the tie rod assemblies, sway bar bushings/end links, and had an alignment done. That had no effect.
Based on the repairs I've done, I would assume that it is having to do with the front brakes, but is not warped rotors or anything in the front suspension.
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I have a 2001 NISSAN Frontier that the hi-mount third brake light appears the be going out. I've trie to remove the plastic light bezel but a clip is holding in the connector. I'm afraid to use too much force while pushing in the clip with a flat head screwdriver but that is the only thing I know to use. The lights are dim and seem to flicker as the brake pedal is pressed.
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2000 Nissan Frontier: Only when hot, engine knocks from center of engine on right bank. Not consistent, intermittent, goes away when revving above 3k rpms. Ever since: Preventative maintenance was performed: Timing belt, oil pump, water pump, valves machined and re-seated, new guides. Idle is smooth and slightly high on cold start up, no vacuum leaks seen. Manifold vacuum is only 15.5 to 16 in/hg, returning code of knock sensor (believe due to knocking). Not a rod knock, not a valve tap. Possible wrist pin noise?
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My AC went last fall. I saw signs of a leak in the high pressure line. Took it to the Nissan dealer last week and they diagnosed the same problem. They changed the HP line. Told me it was good, but when they pulled it up, no AC. They took it back in and said the low pressure line was leaking as well so they changed it. Still didn't work, although it was a little cooler but the compressor seemed pretty loud. Told me they thought it might be the thermistor. I bought the sensor and replaced it myself. AC seemed to work, but sure enough, it only blows slightly cool air and the compressor is still making a bit of noise.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier that recently had a new transmission and radiator installed due to a defect where coolant leaks into the transmission and destroys Nissan transmissions. After I got my truck back it ran fine for about 2 days, then on the third day I started it and the gauges all started going up and down at a speed of about 72 bpm. I shut it off let sit for a few minutes started it and it did this again. I repeated that about 4 times. I let it sit for about 4 hours started it and it was fine for a very short drive (1/2 mile). After about another 2 hours of sitting I tried to start and the battery was dead, my friend jumped it and it drove fine. So it sat for a few days until I had my brother jump it so I could drive to get a new battery. Once it was jumped the moving of the gauges started again.
As I was driving, the gauges kept coming on the going off. I got it to advanced auto and they replaced the battery, it started up drove it for a matter of minutes, then the gauges died and it wouldn’t drive faster than 1 MPH, then engine would rev when I hit the gas. I got it to a parking lot shut it off tried starting it the gauges would come on but as soon as I hit the gas pedal it would rev up but instantly the gauges would shut off and the engine would rev anymore. So I was stuck, got it towed to where the transmission was put in. They couldn't fix it but had to jump it to start it, so the new battery was dead. They towed it to a Nissan dealer and the mechanics are now saying it’s just a bad battery, but this just doesn't make any sense to me.
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If after you shutdown a engine, and a fuel injector is leaking. Is there any sign to look for, that can pin point this problem.
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'04 frontier 6cyl, 90k miles. My AC recently started cooling poorly, although still slightly cold, especially at higher rpms. At the same time, I noticed a buzzing noise that changes pitch with rpms and only occurs with ac on. I can hear it loudest from the glove box area, and can't really hear it under the hood. The compressor clutch works fine. With the car off, I can spin the compressor and it feels fine, no noise. With ac on, the low pressure tube gets cold. I hope it's not a bad compressor.
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2003 NISSAN Xterra
Problem started a couple of days ago. While driving the car normally it suddenly stopped. I was able to restart it but it turned off again 60 seconds later. This has gone on with the engine running from 10 minutes to 10 seconds. The battery terminals and all cables are clean. Distributor cap and rotors have been cleaned. Fuel pump replaced last night. I still get the problem. Error codes listed were: P0328 - Pre Detonation (knock sensor) Bank 1 causes could be restricted fuel - over temp engine. Now this error has been coming up for five years and I've replaced the sensor numerous times. P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect RatioP0102 - Mass Air Flow Low InputP1148 - Closed Loop Control Function, BANK 1P0420 - Catalytic Convertor, BANK 1P0134 - O2 Sensor No Activity, BANK 1
Regarding Fuel Starvation - NOPE, Engine Too Hot (it wasn't), Second Gear Not Within Ratio (never had gear problems), Knock Sensor and most error codes have been related to bank one. Error codes on car computer were erased and engine is still hesitating slightly and stopping. Just checked Mass Airflow Sensor and it looks clean.
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The power steering fluid in my 2004 Nissan Frontier crew cab leaks as the weather turns cold, the colder it gets the worse it leaks.
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I have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
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I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. How do I get to the trouble codes & how do I remove check engine light?
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I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima 134k and i bought it with the p0300 check engine light on a looked at the engine and though it was an air box problem because they had previously installed a K&n filter so I went to the junk yard and got a 2000 nissan maxima air box and new filter i changed the oil and checked the spark plugs they look new and the dates on the coils are 2012 and 2013 and still its misfiring. i bought it to a mechanic and he discovered a vacuum tank had previously broke and they glued back together so i replace that with a factory one today same problem still misfiring but it got better but now its a p0306 then i erased the code and p0304 came back i erased it then p0302 came back then i change the cam sensors, and the crankshaft sensor and now it get a p0300.
Symptoms:
*when sitting for a long time HARD TO START ( takes multiple cranks to start it ) but once i leave it off for short time like 30 min it starts right up no problem
* when stop at a stop light in drive i can feel small little explosions sounds like my car is beat boxing
*performance is strong good acceleration no problem on that i just don't want it misfiring
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last fall, the check engine light came on- Autozone states the knock sensor is bad. At the same time, odometer/cruise would work off and on. Now as months have gone by, the odometer RARELY works. Could all the electrical issues be connected? Is odometer controlled by Speed Sensor on the transmission or somewhere else?
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