Nissan - Frontier :: 2002 - Blowing Exhaust / Knocking And Shaking On Start Up
Apr 9, 2013
Have a 2002 Frontier supercharge nissan....in cold it is flooding out....blowing exhaust and knocking and shaking on start up. After it warms up and weather warms up during the day.....it well start up without the horrible knocking.......I am very good about oil changes and preventive maintenance. To date (in 2 months) the dealership has replaced: distributor, a distributor cap, injection throttle flush, spark plug and spark plug wires.... and it is still doing it....the cannot make it do the sound and blow smoke when they have my vehicle...... it is at shop now.....and they want more parts put in it.
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2000 Nissan Frontier: Only when hot, engine knocks from center of engine on right bank. Not consistent, intermittent, goes away when revving above 3k rpms. Ever since: Preventative maintenance was performed: Timing belt, oil pump, water pump, valves machined and re-seated, new guides. Idle is smooth and slightly high on cold start up, no vacuum leaks seen. Manifold vacuum is only 15.5 to 16 in/hg, returning code of knock sensor (believe due to knocking). Not a rod knock, not a valve tap. Possible wrist pin noise?
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I have a Nissan Frontier, 2002, 4 cyl., manual 5 speed transmission. It seem to slip out of fourth gear, and only fourth gear, especially if I try to drive aggressively, or if I try to accelerate from fourth gear. It happens most when I am driving at lower speeds in fourth gear. Also, the colder the morning, the more likely it is to slip. IS this a transmission problem or a clutch problem (or something else), and what needs to be worked on or replaced- i.e. a whole system, or only a select couple of parts?
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Front end makes metallic rattling/clanking sound. This happens when I make a right-hand turn, and the noise comes from the left-front wheel area. I describe it as the sound of dropping a handful of pots and pans.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier that a had a buddy perform a tune up. Now my buddy has disappeared and my truck miss fires on start up and occasionally looses power when you drive it. I also noticed that It consumes more gas. I went from 305 miles on a 17 gallon tank to 230 miles.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier with a non supercharged 3.3L v6. The truck is a crew cab, long bed and 4x4. I have had this truck since I bought it used in 2004 with 26k miles. The truck now has 196k miles and I have done a little modifying to make it a bit more off road capable.
I have done all the work to the truck myself, until last fall when I finally broke down and took it to a dealer, who was not able to find my problem, but I will get to that...First of all, the truck has steel bumpers, a winch, a tool box, onboard air system and large tires, all of which make the little 3.3L work hard. However, for three years since I quit making modifications, the truck ran perfectly cool and the temp needle never once went above the normal operating position, even through thick sand at the beach, mountain trails and towing heavy trailers, until last summer.
Late last summer, on 90+ degree days, I noticed the temp needle would start riding above normal when I had the AC on. It didnt matter if I was on the highway, the city streets or idling in the driveway. When I turned off the AC the needle went back to normal. This started happening occasionally at first (once every 2 weeks) then towards fall it started happening more frequently, almost every 90 degree day. Soon after I noticed the problem, it would happen even with the AC off, but not get quite so hot.
After a few weeks of this, I started chasing the problem. I replaced the radiator cap, the thermostat (tested the old one and tested the new one before installing,) I took the radiator to a rad shop and had it boiled and flow tested, I replaced both coolant temp sensors, and then finally the water pump. When none of those repairs made a difference I built new radiator fan shrouds and that made no difference. At this point I was starting to get discouraged so I borrowed a scan tool from a friend and drove around for a few weeks with it plugged in. I was reading live temperature readings of the coolant and verified that the gauge was working correctly.
The truck ran about 200 degrees with the AC off most of the time, then, when I turned the AC on, no matter if I was sitting in park or driving on the highway, the temp would steadily climb until it got to 222 degrees and I would shut off the truck, at that point the needle was near the danger zone and according to several nissan dealership, the highest normal operating temp is 204, but it should stay around 195. At 205 degrees, the needle would start to move above the normal position, so the gauge seems to be fine. As summer turned into fall, the truck started running cooler as the days began to drop into the 70's. I finally got fed up with chasing my tail and took the truck to a dealer with my main concern being a blown head gasket or cracked head.
The dealership inspected the head and tested the coolant for hydrocarbons and said that the head and gasket are not the issue. They advised that the only other thing it could be is my fan clutch. After that dealership visit, the days were cool so I drove the truck all winter without changing the fan clutch. Then, 2 weeks ago, on a 70 degree day, I hooked up my truck to an empty trailer (maybe 1000lbs) and towed it 15 miles. When towing up hill with the AC on, the temp needle started moving. I immediately went to napa and replaced my fan clutch. Confident that was the issue, I drove the truck to the mountains for a camping trip last weekend. While climbing the hills at 40mph and about 2500 rpm, the temp needle climbed to the near danger zone.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier v6 4L 4x4 The truck ran great with no problems other then the fuel sending unit was bad so my gas guage was always wrong. I purchased a replacement sending unit and dropped the tank, removed the fuel pump, and finally replaced the bad fuel sending unit. My gas guage works now, but I noticed it took a few extra seconds to start...it cranked and cranked...then finally started. This is not how is was before. I thought maybe it was due to fuel needing to run through the lines. I thought nothing of it and drove off.
Everywhere I parked...I always returned to extra cranking to get the car to start. A day later I decided to look for kinks in the lines. I thought I found one, so after dropping the tank, making sure everything was secure and routing the lines...i bolted it all back together...But now it won't even start. The truck cranks and cranks, but there is no start. I was thinking of dropping the tank half way to make sure the electrical connector was on....
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We have had a few mornings (in garage) where it would seem to not really id say a knock but maybe a clicking sound and it would quit right away. This morning that did not happen so i shut the car off and checked oil it was low.
Got under the car and can not see any leaking no oil on ground. So i had a QT i put in and that seems to quiet it after a few seconds.
I called local TOY dealer and they said its common for 2010 to use some oil and not much they can do. I thought what is a little it was at the end of the dipstick.
They said they can only fill it up and then have me come back in 1400 miles and see how much is used.
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I got a Mercedes Benz, SL560, US style, 8 cylinders, from 1987, mileage around 130 000I got the camshafts, rockers, and valve changed these days as the lifters were a little worn out as I was told. So I decided to do it now than later. But since the mechanic changed them I get a bad knocking noise and shaking at start up. It disappears after up to 5 minutes. The mechanic said he only changed the parts. That's it. Nothing else done. When I was there doing the work I say him using the chain. I left the shop as I could not wait till the work was done.
Someone told me that the clearance of the valve has to be checked and adjusted. Mechanics say that it is not possible as my engine is W117 and there is nothing to adjust. It will do it automatically. I took the car back as clearly that mechanic could not do anything else then for the car. He also does not want the car back. He hung up when we tried to ask him to check the car again (like checking the timing chain). Well. In between I asked another shop to check it. They replaced only 3 rockers again. They were new!!! There was a slight damage on them. I guess this is the part of the rockers where you put the screwdriver on. That is why it was a bit "damaged".This second mechanic said I should just drive the car as the problem will be less in ... dont know when. Hundred of miles, days, weeks?
I am not satisfied with this situation and therefore I am here to ask what the problem might be. This wasnt there before the camshaft was changed!I cannot really make the mechanic do what I am asking for. I am now in an asian country and they do what they wanna do. I am only there to pay high prices and nothing is done what I wanted. With this mechanic I am trying to get him to check the timing chain (chain tension) and plastic guide rails? Could this cause the problem or also something else?I wanna know what it might be so that I can tell mechanic when he picks up the car.
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I have a '99 Nissan Frontier 4cyl. p'up and the air conditioner kept going off. The truck has three drivebelts, all inline. The first is Crankshaft to the Power steering pump , the second goes from Crankshaft to the water-pump & the alternator and the third one goes to the air-conditioning compressor; the one that keeps coming off my truck & shutting down the A.C. I replaced it three times and the last time it went off within a couple of miles. I know the crankshaft and the A.C. compressor pulley's are out of line and believe that's my problem. A mechanic friend of mine looked at it and said he thought it was something called a belt-leveler that keeps all the belts from slipping off.
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I have a 2012 Camry SE with about 30k on it. I've always been a huge Toyota fan but I've had some interesting things happen with my first new car that has me questioning quality. I've had a mouse nest in the cabin air filter with the dead mouse laying in the engine bay (not a toyota issue), a loud rattling exhaust/engine rattle when I start the car, and the common interior creaks that I've been reading about.
However I've noticed a noise coming from somewhere behind the dash, maybe the instrument panel area that has been very annoying. It occurs at highway speeds usually above 65mph and it's kind of like a quick tapping. Very faint but definitely noticeable.
Its not the sunroof because, unfortunately I have that issue also lol. It took me a while to narrow it down to behind the dash but that's as far as I can get because I can't search for it while I'm driving. I'm not very picky but I do like to drive in silence sometimes and listen to the sounds of the engine/tranny shifting (weird I know) but that dashboard noise has been ruining it.
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It's a 2000 Frontier V6 4x4 CC with 104k miles. It just randomly dies going down the road. Sometimes it restarts. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I just get a small blip (loss of spark or fuel - unsure which) when going down the road then it's fine again. It seems seems like a loose connection somewhere to me but I have checked and repaired everything I can find.
A little history of problems...
Fall 2014 - Fuel Sending Unit; I had similar problems a little over a year ago and I replaced this at ~90k miles. The stock one was corroded and the fuel pump wasn't getting power. Got the part from Nissan directly. Truck ran great for a year then started having same issues in fall of 2015. I am thinking this couldn't have gone bad again in only a year, but who knows? No engine codes at the time.
December 2015 - Distributor #1; I replaced it with one from Auto Zone. Had the same problems that day. Returned that and replaced with one from Napa Distributor #2 (New - house brand - supposedly made by Altrom - which is supposedly comparable to OEM) This seemed to fix it for a little while. At the same time I did the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, a bunch of suspension work, etc. so I had the harness off. Did I knock something loose? I feel like I have checked it up and down.... doesn't seem that way.
January 2016 Bad Wire?; Same issues. Wiggling the harness into the distributor seemed to have an effect on restarting so I pulled the harness apart from the dist to the main and found a small cut on the casing of one of the ground wires. The wire was not damaged, just casing. Fixed that with a double layer of shrink tube and it ran fine again for a couple weeks. In this same period my catalytic converters also went bad. My exhaust manifolds cracked, next thing I knew I had catalytic converter codes on both sides of the engine. Ran it like this for a few months.
April 2016 Distrbutor #3 Same problem. Randomly dies. Gets progressively worse over a couple day period. I gave up and took it to a shop (Downing St. Garage in Denver, CO) They diagnosed it as a bad distributor so I had it replaced AGAIN (they were nice enough to use the Napa part I bought and get a free warranty part)
June 2016 Distributor #4 Same problem again. Still have not replaced cats - did not want to spend the money when the ignition problem seems un-related. Replaced distributor with another warranty part from NAPA. This time the one that I took off made a crunching sound when you turned it by hand.
August 2016 Finally replaced cats. CEL codes were gone for an afternoon then the truck started sputtering down the road again... CEL P1320 and CEL P0325 BACK AGAIN!
I am at a loss on what to do. I have read that the MAF sensor can get dirty... but this doesn't seem to explain the P1320. Anyway, I ordered some cleaner, a new knock sensor and another distributor (this time Nissan brand but re-manufactured... they no longer sell new ones.)
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Our mechanic is stumped. The Frontier runs hot when idling. The clutch fan and thermostat have been replaced. The radiator has been flushed. When you are driving or you turn off the A/C, the temp goes down. The next suggestion is to replace the radiator, but I'm already hundreds into this so I hate to do anything else unless I'm pretty sure it is going to fix it.
We do know that the catalytic converter needs replacing. Could this have anything to do with it?
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When I cut off the engine by mistake (shift slip ie ) the restart comes around but only after about 5 to 15 minutes . The last time this happened the car was at an intersection and this situation is getting dangeous.Why is the restart taking so long ?
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I have read two other threads that indicate a leaky head gasket for Nissan Frontiers overheating...but I'd like an opinion on my problem: I have a 1999, v6 3.3L, 4x4, manual Frontier that I have owned since 2001, always well-maintained, timing belt, water pump and thermostat already replaced a couple of years ago; currently has 129k mi. I rarely drive it (about once or twice a month).
Last time I drove it (I'm in AZ and heat was over 100 degrees) it started right up and was fine until I'd gone about 3 miles on the freeway doing about 65mph. Started to climb in temperature, but not into the red zone. I drove with it hovering just above the midway point (midway meaning perfectly normal temperature on my gauge) for a couple of more miles, when it started to climb just a bit more, I got off the freeway and dropped under 45 mph, the temperature went down to normal. I drove about 40mph back home and haven't driven it since.
I checked my coolant, which was extremely clean and not low, and was not boiling when I checked it soon after the temp went up on the freeway. What is the most likely cause?On a side note, since I do not drive it that often, what is recommended as to the gas that has been sitting in my tank since? How long does the gas stay good for? Further wondering how often it is recommended I drive it, for how long and at what sustained speed to keep my truck up and running?
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I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is a 4X4 and has the V6 engine. Mileage is 172,000+. For a few years, I have had problems with the AC no longer cooling after I drive 20 or so miles and stop the truck, go in a store and start back up only to find that the AC will not cool after the stop. This seems to happen more when the weather is hot. Only once has it gone out without stopping the car and it was on I40 driving trough Oklahoma in 100+ degree weather. Once it quits cooling, after driving 20 to 30 minutes, it usually starts to cool again. It sometimes speeds up the process if I roll the windows down.Coolant levels are fine.
So...is there a faulty sensor somewhere? What could it be that is the problem?
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We have a 2003 Nissan frontier pickup (automatic).The AC recently stopped cooling, but the fan works. It was cooling perfectly great when all of a sudden, it stopped. If we turn the AC on, the compressor (I'm guessing) starts to click and continues to click until turned off. (started to grind under hood). It's not a rattle, definitely a click as if it wants to turn on but can't make the electrical connection. It kind of sounds like when a starter has gone bad and it clicks. Except, it does it repetitively until turned off. This doesn't happen if we turn on the fan but leave the AC off. Does it sound like the compressor went out? How can we troubleshoot it?
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I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is having issues. I had the distributor replaced and the knock sensor. The day I got it home it started having a weird starting issue. It has always started first crank super easy & strong. Runs GREAT.
When the truck is cool it starts right up but, when I've been driving around for a bit and turn it off, if it's a short stop starts right back up, some hesitation. If I stop for 15-45 mins it doesn't want to start. I can crank it all day and it wont start and gives a little kickback, if I crank too much the engine will smoke a bit, spits and sputters when you turn the key off. The longer it sits before I try to start it the worse it gets... around one hour is the worse. - Finally figured out if I try cranking it over several times, turn off the key and wait literally one to two minutes it starts right up super quick and strong just like when it's cool. So random and weird.
No warning lights & Nothing shows up when hooked up to the computer, fuel pump checked out OK.
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I have some serious vibration at about 40 to 50 MPH only when the accelerator is depressed. As soon as I let off the gas it stops. I have had the tires rotated and balanced and the U joints checked. My Mechanic says he can't figure it out and to drive it until it breaks.
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My 2005 Nissan frontier reeks badly.
Has new air filters and new cabin filters. Only seems to smell when driving at 55mph for about 20 minutes, the funk comes from the vents and in all heat/AC and fan modes seems to be less stinky in the winter.
Nothing is dead in the heater box because it does not stink in when driving around town and I have poured gallons of Lysol down the air intake during recic, open vent, etc, Smells like a mix of eggs, oil, and funk.
Dealership says it is not the catalytic converters as they "check out fine" Nissan dealership says it's bad gas, which is unlikely as when I drive away from home and I use other gas, it still smells.so what is it? What is it?
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After having my oil changed at a local place, the oil pressure gauge showed "high." hoping it would go away, i drove for a week. it didn't... took it back to the shop and they said it was a little full which would cause it to show high pressure. That was earlier today. The gauge however has not changed. Still shows high oil pressure. I need to drive 400 miles tomorrow and am not sure if it is safe? Perhaps just a bad sensor??? I need to know if i can hit the road or not.
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