I have some rust building on the heat shield of my cats on my 2001 Nissan Frontier.. I had a weld done to keep it from rattling after replacing the OEM muffler. It there anything I can put on it to retard the rusting process on the shield and will that affect my emissions?
View 4 RepliesI recently went to my mechanic after living with a very small leak right between the catalytic converters and the transmission for about 4 months. (it dropped a dime-sized mark about once every 5 days.) he said it was the rear output seal on the transmission but wouldnt touch it since there was no easy way to get to it and didn't want to drop the whole exhaust system. so off to vw dealership (wow, i guess a lot of people complained because they replaced everyone there and they're more friendly and efficient. my car usually sat there for 3 weeks before they even looked at it. (appointment mean nothing to those people.) but after dropping off my car i got a call within an hour telling me it was a cracked ventilation hose. they ordered the part and repaired it within a week (another first.) i also had them change the trans fluid and filter and the car ran smoother and a lot better and i checked for 2 weeks for leaks and none were there but within the past week, it's back and leaking the same way. the puddle is about the size of a penny so back to vw on monday.
View 1 Replies'05 GLX, 55k miles. Got an MIL light last week and it showed a P0421 code. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the right bank catalytic converter. That was last Friday. Fast forward to Weds. of this week. MIL comes back on and mileage drops noticeably, but power doesn't seem affected. Back to dealer, they end up replacing the other cat. Does this seem normal? I'm trying to figure out what may have led to this. Car is basically stock. I do my own oil changes (never overfill) and swapped out the spark plugs at 45k miles with Bosch Iridiums. [IMG] [URL] .....
View 4 RepliesThe catalytic converters are very hot and the one upper left, when looking into the engine, is even red. The engine runs less than 10 minutes a the converters become very hot. I think when the engine run another 30 minutes, then I have a firework.
And that's not all. If the engine is idling, it's everything o. k. But if accelerates over 2.500 RPM, then it smokes as a locomotive. The smoke is white, dense and it smells like unburned fuel.
So I ask, are the converters blocked and I need to change them, or is the engine before death?
The vehicle is a 2001.5 Passat 4 Motion V6. 120,000 miles on the Passat.
The original Cats were replaced 1 month ago after a service station deemed them dead. When the vehicle failed emissions.
The codes were p0430 and P0420 and P411.
Before that about a year ago The O2 sensors were replaced.
After 2 new catalytic converters were installed. The vehicle is still throwing p0420 and p0430 codes.
My son-in-law has a 2006 Honda Accord with over 160,000 miles on it. About 8 months ago, the check engine light came on. The code said the down stream oxygen sensor was bad. He took it to a Honda dealer and they replaced the sensor and now the check engine light is back on with the same code. Can the catalytic converter have gone bad and can it have made the oxygen sensor go bad too?
View 5 RepliesGetting multiple CEL's for the catalytic converters and cylinder misfires. Looking for threads that address these particular codes ie. 0431, 0421, 0300. 0303, 0306. I have a feeling that these are being caused from a vacuum leak and/or needing a reflash for the ECU.
View 3 RepliesMy Equinox had problems from when I bought it used at 23K miles. The evap hose recall was installed wrong and broke. The traction control went out and shut down my car in mid-drive (twice). Computer modules went bad. Timing chain had to be replaced. Then is was using 3 or more quarts of oil before reaching 3000 miles after an oil change, with no puddles on the ground. I received a letter from GM after it reached 120k miles, but the dealership was good enough to replace the whole engine anyway due to "problems" with this year and model. The catalytic coverters were bad at the time but not replaced though the "disappearing oil" from the bad engine seems to have caused that. What can I do to get this resolved without having to spend $1500-$2000 of my own money, that I don't have right now? (oh, one wheel hub assembly has just gone bad too)
View 5 RepliesI have recently picked up a 2005 F350 with the 5.4, which has 212k on it. Has a check engine light on for P0420 and P0430, as well as some kind of a 'ignition coil 'D'', I forgot which code it was as I deleted them at first to see which would come back. After driving it, the P0420 and the P0430 came back, but not the other, yet probably. I'm guessing the misfire due to the ignition coil caused the cats to go bad and the 420/430 codes, unless these codes are coincidental and the cats went due to high mileage.
Either way, I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the cats and was wondering what is the cheapest route. Should I get individual cats and have a shop weld them on? Should I go to Advance Auto parts or Auto Zone and get the whole pipe with the cats attached to them already and then get them installed? I anything will involve welding, I would have to bring it in to a shop. Also, in regards to the ignition coil misfire, what a good way to check which one it is?
I have a 2001 Nissan frontier SE the 6cylinder, no turbo, automatic transmission. My wife was not paying attention and thought the truck was running and so she put it in reverse and then realized that the truck as not running so she tried to start it while in reverse, when that didnt work she put it back into park and when she tried to start it, the cd player restarted and the wipers started and the guages peaked and whe truck made a fast ticking sound. i thought that it may have some how killed the battery but it does the same thing with the new battery in.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 NISSAN Frontier that the hi-mount third brake light appears the be going out. I've trie to remove the plastic light bezel but a clip is holding in the connector. I'm afraid to use too much force while pushing in the clip with a flat head screwdriver but that is the only thing I know to use. The lights are dim and seem to flicker as the brake pedal is pressed.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Nissan frontier and the air hasn't been working for a while now. So I need to know how many cans of freon does it need?
View 6 Repliesmy 2001 nissan frontier xe is making squeaking, slipping sounds past couple months. getting more frequents, scaring me to drive and felt like has brief loss of power couple days ago while parking.
someone told me power steering fluid is orange rust colored and gunnky and needs replaced which i dont know how or have tools for.
Video of it here. At around 1 minutes 54 second, and 2 minute mark, among others, the sound is audible. [URL] ....
I have a 2001 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab XE with a V6 (without the supercharger). I bought it on Halloween night with only 42,000 miles. It now has 112,000 miles on it. I moved from Georgia to Kentucky and heard that I needed to have the cooling system flushed/filled to prevent it from freezing in the winter time. I then noticed that it would periodically "overheat." The temperature gauge would climb up to the line just below the "H" and then I would turn on the heater.
I read online about a "bleeder valve" on top of the intake manifold. I loosened it, squeezed the radiator hoses to get all of the air out and then tightened the bleeder valve. I then let it run until the thermostat opened, revved it up to 3,000 to let all of the coolant flow. Now, at various time with no specific reason, it will run fine and then just "decide" to overheat.
I can drive it on the interstate for fifteen minutes, park it in front of my house and then have to "tack it up to 3,000" just to get it cool. I've changed the thermostat and had the water pump tested. Neither of them are faulty. My mechanic vacuumed out all of the air from the system with a special tool the dealer recommends using and it still does the same thing. What's going on with this vehicle?
I bought this truck (2011 F-350 6.2l) used a month ago with 125000 miles on it. Of course the MIL light came on as soon as the ink dried. The codes read PO420 & PO430 and my local Ford Service said replace the cats. I said what is the cause of the failure, ford said here is a list of possible causes but it's not reading other codes so they don't know what caused the failure.
Well, I went ahead and replaced both catalytic converters, all four O2 sensors, and I replaced all sixteen spark plugs. Guess what, the MIL light is back on not 24 hours later reading PO420, PO430, and now PO620 and PO645. So I just went back to Ford today and all they did was cleared the codes and told me to call if the light comes back on. They said my PCM is up to date but why it's now reading GENCOM code or AC Clutch code.
Where do I start. I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra. 128,000 miles. In Aug. of last year, the engine detonated, so I had it replaced along with other parts. Shortly after that, I noticed a burning plastic smell coming from the car after driving it for a while. I confirmed that that the smell wasn't coming from a plastic bag. Fast forward to Dec 2011, my check engine light comes on. I go to Autozone, have the code read; it's the dreaded 420 code. I go to have it checked out, was told my cat went bad and probably because of the old engine and that the smell is probably coming from that.
The check engine light went off on Christmas day. Fast forward to last month, the light comes on again and I pony up the cash to have the cat replaced since inspection is coming up in June. Now, I had an engine diagnostic run right before I got the cat replaced and it came up fine. The cat was replaced on 4/20. Everything seemed fine. The burning plastic smell went a way, but lo and behold, it came back this week. I don't know what to do. I did a little search on the net and it seems that burning plastic smell indicates there is something going on with engine and possible misfire.
My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
View 3 RepliesI have a '99 Nissan Frontier 4cyl. p'up and the air conditioner kept going off. The truck has three drivebelts, all inline. The first is Crankshaft to the Power steering pump , the second goes from Crankshaft to the water-pump & the alternator and the third one goes to the air-conditioning compressor; the one that keeps coming off my truck & shutting down the A.C. I replaced it three times and the last time it went off within a couple of miles. I know the crankshaft and the A.C. compressor pulley's are out of line and believe that's my problem. A mechanic friend of mine looked at it and said he thought it was something called a belt-leveler that keeps all the belts from slipping off.
View 2 RepliesIt's a 2000 Frontier V6 4x4 CC with 104k miles. It just randomly dies going down the road. Sometimes it restarts. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I just get a small blip (loss of spark or fuel - unsure which) when going down the road then it's fine again. It seems seems like a loose connection somewhere to me but I have checked and repaired everything I can find.
A little history of problems...
Fall 2014 - Fuel Sending Unit; I had similar problems a little over a year ago and I replaced this at ~90k miles. The stock one was corroded and the fuel pump wasn't getting power. Got the part from Nissan directly. Truck ran great for a year then started having same issues in fall of 2015. I am thinking this couldn't have gone bad again in only a year, but who knows? No engine codes at the time.
December 2015 - Distributor #1; I replaced it with one from Auto Zone. Had the same problems that day. Returned that and replaced with one from Napa Distributor #2 (New - house brand - supposedly made by Altrom - which is supposedly comparable to OEM) This seemed to fix it for a little while. At the same time I did the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, a bunch of suspension work, etc. so I had the harness off. Did I knock something loose? I feel like I have checked it up and down.... doesn't seem that way.
January 2016 Bad Wire?; Same issues. Wiggling the harness into the distributor seemed to have an effect on restarting so I pulled the harness apart from the dist to the main and found a small cut on the casing of one of the ground wires. The wire was not damaged, just casing. Fixed that with a double layer of shrink tube and it ran fine again for a couple weeks. In this same period my catalytic converters also went bad. My exhaust manifolds cracked, next thing I knew I had catalytic converter codes on both sides of the engine. Ran it like this for a few months.
April 2016 Distrbutor #3 Same problem. Randomly dies. Gets progressively worse over a couple day period. I gave up and took it to a shop (Downing St. Garage in Denver, CO) They diagnosed it as a bad distributor so I had it replaced AGAIN (they were nice enough to use the Napa part I bought and get a free warranty part)
June 2016 Distributor #4 Same problem again. Still have not replaced cats - did not want to spend the money when the ignition problem seems un-related. Replaced distributor with another warranty part from NAPA. This time the one that I took off made a crunching sound when you turned it by hand.
August 2016 Finally replaced cats. CEL codes were gone for an afternoon then the truck started sputtering down the road again... CEL P1320 and CEL P0325 BACK AGAIN!
I am at a loss on what to do. I have read that the MAF sensor can get dirty... but this doesn't seem to explain the P1320. Anyway, I ordered some cleaner, a new knock sensor and another distributor (this time Nissan brand but re-manufactured... they no longer sell new ones.)
Our mechanic is stumped. The Frontier runs hot when idling. The clutch fan and thermostat have been replaced. The radiator has been flushed. When you are driving or you turn off the A/C, the temp goes down. The next suggestion is to replace the radiator, but I'm already hundreds into this so I hate to do anything else unless I'm pretty sure it is going to fix it.
We do know that the catalytic converter needs replacing. Could this have anything to do with it?
When I cut off the engine by mistake (shift slip ie ) the restart comes around but only after about 5 to 15 minutes . The last time this happened the car was at an intersection and this situation is getting dangeous.Why is the restart taking so long ?
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