Nissan - Frontier :: 1998 Truck Bucks At Certain RPMs - Check Engine Light Is On
Mar 28, 2013
I have a 98 frontier 4 cil. 4x4 manual transmission. The CE light is on telling me that the evap system needs work. I replaced the purge canister valve and now the light wont go off at all. You can clear it all you want, as soon as the truck starts the light come back on.The truck also runs rough, bucks at certain RPMS has no power and bad gas mileage. Within the last two years I have replaced; catalytic converter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap & rotter, transmission and clutch, air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor.
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I have a 2008 nissan frontier SE 4x4 with 71K on her. I'm getting two codes from my checking engine light P0455 and P0447. The gas cap is new and tight.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier pickup that I bought used in 2012. Shortly after I purchased it the the check engine light came on, would go off and back on. Last year (before inspection) I hooked it to the diagnostic auto scanner and it read the error as four oxygen sensors. The truck was running fine but in order to get it inspected I ended up changing all four sensors. The light came back on within the week (as soon as it rained) then would go off a few days later. Rain--on, then off. I managed to get it in for inspection on one of the days the light was off. So, now it is again inspection time. Light is on, still error on the scanner as oxygen sensors. Light has not gone off in a long time.
Also noting here that I have checked this error on several different scanners. The truck is running fine. Before I take it to the dealership is there anything else this could be?
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1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
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In my 1998 Nissan Frontier I had the clutch replaced at about 115,000 miles. That included a "clutch kit" which included a new throwout bearing. Currently, I'm at only 145,000 miles. Much of that is highway miles.
However, a noise has developed. It's a whirring or humming that happens when the clutch is depressed (disengaged). The noise is not present when the clutch is released in any gear, including neutral.
My first guess would be the throwout bearing, but again, that was replaced only 30,000 miles ago, and plenty of highway miles. The original lasted as long as the original clutch.
My second guess would be the pilot shaft bearing. That was not replaced with the clutch. (So the shop says.)
Any other guesses or advice? No matter the case, is it a problem if I leave it be? I can live with the noise if I know it's not really a problem.
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I am working on this 99 Nissan and the issue is that the gauge shows the truck is over heating ,so we changed the thermostat ,the temp sending unit and that other thing next to that,and flushed the coolant system and bleed the system with new antifreeze and fresh water for the correct mixture..The truck still says its over heating ,the top hose hot and the bottom hose not anything more then it is when the truck hasn't been running.The truck starts right up and seems to run very well,then the gauge maxes right out and then wait for it to cool according to the temp gauge and drive a bit more,with in a mile its over heating again according to the gauge..I checked the oil and its perfectly fine and normal !I am so lost here,the radiator is like new and the clutch fan works right ,checked all the hoses and they are not collapsing ,water pump replaced a year ago...
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My 92 nissan truck 4x4 won't move. engine runs fine but after a couple stream crossings and parking it I can't get it to roll. It happened a few years ago and a mech. said it was rust lock in the brakes?
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Nissan Frontier 2004 with v6, air, automatic 4x4.... I only have luke warm air coming into my truck. The switch on dash switches from defrost to floor or thru dash . Was thinking maybe a switch under dash not working maybe, but do not know where to start looking.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier that a had a buddy perform a tune up. Now my buddy has disappeared and my truck miss fires on start up and occasionally looses power when you drive it. I also noticed that It consumes more gas. I went from 305 miles on a 17 gallon tank to 230 miles.
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When I cut off the engine by mistake (shift slip ie ) the restart comes around but only after about 5 to 15 minutes . The last time this happened the car was at an intersection and this situation is getting dangeous.Why is the restart taking so long ?
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I have a 2001 NISSAN Frontier that the hi-mount third brake light appears the be going out. I've trie to remove the plastic light bezel but a clip is holding in the connector. I'm afraid to use too much force while pushing in the clip with a flat head screwdriver but that is the only thing I know to use. The lights are dim and seem to flicker as the brake pedal is pressed.
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2000 Nissan Frontier: Only when hot, engine knocks from center of engine on right bank. Not consistent, intermittent, goes away when revving above 3k rpms. Ever since: Preventative maintenance was performed: Timing belt, oil pump, water pump, valves machined and re-seated, new guides. Idle is smooth and slightly high on cold start up, no vacuum leaks seen. Manifold vacuum is only 15.5 to 16 in/hg, returning code of knock sensor (believe due to knocking). Not a rod knock, not a valve tap. Possible wrist pin noise?
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I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier that recently had a new transmission and radiator installed due to a defect where coolant leaks into the transmission and destroys Nissan transmissions. After I got my truck back it ran fine for about 2 days, then on the third day I started it and the gauges all started going up and down at a speed of about 72 bpm. I shut it off let sit for a few minutes started it and it did this again. I repeated that about 4 times. I let it sit for about 4 hours started it and it was fine for a very short drive (1/2 mile). After about another 2 hours of sitting I tried to start and the battery was dead, my friend jumped it and it drove fine. So it sat for a few days until I had my brother jump it so I could drive to get a new battery. Once it was jumped the moving of the gauges started again.
As I was driving, the gauges kept coming on the going off. I got it to advanced auto and they replaced the battery, it started up drove it for a matter of minutes, then the gauges died and it wouldn’t drive faster than 1 MPH, then engine would rev when I hit the gas. I got it to a parking lot shut it off tried starting it the gauges would come on but as soon as I hit the gas pedal it would rev up but instantly the gauges would shut off and the engine would rev anymore. So I was stuck, got it towed to where the transmission was put in. They couldn't fix it but had to jump it to start it, so the new battery was dead. They towed it to a Nissan dealer and the mechanics are now saying it’s just a bad battery, but this just doesn't make any sense to me.
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If after you shutdown a engine, and a fuel injector is leaking. Is there any sign to look for, that can pin point this problem.
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2003 NISSAN Xterra
Problem started a couple of days ago. While driving the car normally it suddenly stopped. I was able to restart it but it turned off again 60 seconds later. This has gone on with the engine running from 10 minutes to 10 seconds. The battery terminals and all cables are clean. Distributor cap and rotors have been cleaned. Fuel pump replaced last night. I still get the problem. Error codes listed were: P0328 - Pre Detonation (knock sensor) Bank 1 causes could be restricted fuel - over temp engine. Now this error has been coming up for five years and I've replaced the sensor numerous times. P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect RatioP0102 - Mass Air Flow Low InputP1148 - Closed Loop Control Function, BANK 1P0420 - Catalytic Convertor, BANK 1P0134 - O2 Sensor No Activity, BANK 1
Regarding Fuel Starvation - NOPE, Engine Too Hot (it wasn't), Second Gear Not Within Ratio (never had gear problems), Knock Sensor and most error codes have been related to bank one. Error codes on car computer were erased and engine is still hesitating slightly and stopping. Just checked Mass Airflow Sensor and it looks clean.
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I have a 1998 Maxima with 57K miles on it. I just bought it about a month ago. Anyway, a week ago I noticed It felt very "choppy" when I shifted into Drive or Reverse. It felt like it was going to stall but it never did. The Service Engine Soon light has been on for about 3 weeks but now, when I go up hills especially, that light blinks. I can still drive it but I shift into Neutral at stoplights to avoid hearing the rough idle while in Drive. Went to Pep Boys yesterday - they had the car for about an hour and then informed me that they would need to keep the car for a full day because of the "complex issues involved" - especially concerning the codes. The codes they read were:
p0300 random misfire
p0325 knock sensor
p0440 evap emission
My car passed smog test abut 3 months ago. I can drive it OK it just is very choppy and so there's not a lot of power, especially going up hills.
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I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
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This is a Ford Escape XLT with the 3.0L V6. I get the following codes - P0316 P0300 P0136 P0305 P0306. Sometimes it runs just fine and sometimes it misses and bucks and jumps. It has been taken to a local shop and they said they found a loose ground at the computer. They said they corrected this and it should run fine. It still shows the same codes and runs like it did before they worked on it.
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I have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
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I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. How do I get to the trouble codes & how do I remove check engine light?
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I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima 134k and i bought it with the p0300 check engine light on a looked at the engine and though it was an air box problem because they had previously installed a K&n filter so I went to the junk yard and got a 2000 nissan maxima air box and new filter i changed the oil and checked the spark plugs they look new and the dates on the coils are 2012 and 2013 and still its misfiring. i bought it to a mechanic and he discovered a vacuum tank had previously broke and they glued back together so i replace that with a factory one today same problem still misfiring but it got better but now its a p0306 then i erased the code and p0304 came back i erased it then p0302 came back then i change the cam sensors, and the crankshaft sensor and now it get a p0300.
Symptoms:
*when sitting for a long time HARD TO START ( takes multiple cranks to start it ) but once i leave it off for short time like 30 min it starts right up no problem
* when stop at a stop light in drive i can feel small little explosions sounds like my car is beat boxing
*performance is strong good acceleration no problem on that i just don't want it misfiring
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