Nissan :: Check Engine Light Came On Only When Driving At Highway Speed
May 30, 2014
My truck is a 1997 nissan pickup with. 254,000 miles. Check engine light come on. Only when I am at highway speed. As long as I am in city traffic, nothing I have a code scanner code (PO302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. I change spark plugs and wires and dist cap. But check engine light came back on. I put in shop they claim that they can't find nothing wrong. I guess I need to find a new mechanic.
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I just purchased a 2013 Elantra GT, 3 days ago. I was driving down the highway and my check engine light came on. There is only 480 miles on my car! I know it's not a gas cap. I haven't even put gas in it since I drove it off the lot. Is there a way to check for the code thrown without a scanner? I use to have a jeep liberty and I could click the key over 3 times an the code would pop up.
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I drive a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible with about 130,000 miles on it.
I was driving down the highway in early November when the check engine light came on my car. I took it to Aamco who did some diagnosis and replaced a solenoid assembly in the transmission. The light went off and I was on my way. I never got the exact code.
About a month after that, the light came on again. This time, I got a low end code reader and scanned it myself. I got a "P0700" code, which I've read is a generic code that the transmission system sends to the computer or something. So I used my reader to erase it. However, the light came on 2 days later while I was driving down the highway at about 70 MPH.
So I went to an auto parts store to get a more detailed scan with a better tool. This one came up "P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit".
This feels weird, because the solenoid assembly was just replaced a month ago (and is still under warranty).
The car seems to drive okay. I don't notice any actual problems in shifting. The tachometer seemed to get up to about 3000 RPM on the highway. But I've seen practically new cars do that. The last time I had serious transmission problem it would rev up to about 5000 or 6000 RPM on the highway and still only getting up to about 40 MPH. That was 3 years ago and at the time I had a fairly expensive transmission repair (which included a new torque converter).
But like I said, the car seems to be driving okay. I don't drive much. Maybe 100 miles a week? And even that is mostly optional in town driving. I'm not looking to keep this car for more than another 20,000 to 25,000 miles though for the time being I cannot afford a new one.
What are the possible causes here? What are the consequences of ignoring this? Like I said, it's still driving fine and as the old saying goes "if it's not broke, don't fix it".
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2004 Golf, manual transmission. The yellow check engine light comes on when it's driven on the highway for more than 10 miles or so (60-70 mph).
The light goes off on it's own after about 36 hours of suburb driving - 1-2 miles at a time on suburb roads, lots of lights and not going over 40 mph.
1) Why the light is coming on? No other signs of trouble occur - oil looks good, temp stays fine, no smells, etc.
2) Why the light goes off after 4-6 miles/36hours?
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I was driving on a high speed highway (70 limit) doing 80 on cruise control and about 10 mins into my drive the car disengaged itself of the cruise control and the check engine came on for about 5 seconds while the car was forcefully slowing down by itself and then the check engine disappeared and I accelerated back to 80 and set it again for the rest of my hour drive. It wasn't just disengaging of cruise control it was like the engine shut off for a few seconds and then came back on.
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I have a 93 3000gt VR4 with 214,000 miles on her at the moment. As I am cursing at a speed of 55 the check engine light comes on and stay on for a while then as sudden as it came on it goes off still driving at 55 or less depens on traffic. My question is why is this happening? I took it to AMMCO to have the code check but they could not because the check engine light is not constantly. I do not have a code sxanner for the car to read the codes if any. The engine runs strong I tried to see if I could get the check engine light to come on but to no avail. Could it be a sensor going bad or the ECU I had trouble with it before and had the dealer replaced it.
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I have an 04 Elantra GT and have been noticing a jerkiness when driving at a constant speed on the highway. I haven't noticed it around town or while accelerating. I also have noticed that when I disengage the clutch on the highway, the engine sometimes doesn't respond right away, or it even may surge. This has happened when exiting the highway when I disengage the clutch. The engine will slow, then speed up close to 3000 rpms.
I also had a check engine light come on and couple months ago. The code indicated that the upstream O2 sensor was bad. I took it out and cleaned it, but didn't replace it. Is this a likely culprit for this set of symptoms? If so, how can I test the sensor to be sure? I heard that I could disconnect it and run the car and see if the surging lessens, but wasn't sure if that was a good thing to do.
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Check tire pressure light appeared today while driving on the highway today. checked all pressure but they all read fine. what could be wrong? Is there something I am not getting here ?
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I have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
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I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. How do I get to the trouble codes & how do I remove check engine light?
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I have Acura 1996 3.2 and its a great car but about 2 months ago the Check engine light is on and when i try to accelerate on highway or just on high speed it wont go in the next gear at the moment but when I am gonna press the pedal harder suddenly it will accelerate in a second. Also when I am standing on the traffic light the dashboard starts shaking and its a feeling like a car is going to turn off. Its an automatic. And this happens more frequently when the tank is full.
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I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima 134k and i bought it with the p0300 check engine light on a looked at the engine and though it was an air box problem because they had previously installed a K&n filter so I went to the junk yard and got a 2000 nissan maxima air box and new filter i changed the oil and checked the spark plugs they look new and the dates on the coils are 2012 and 2013 and still its misfiring. i bought it to a mechanic and he discovered a vacuum tank had previously broke and they glued back together so i replace that with a factory one today same problem still misfiring but it got better but now its a p0306 then i erased the code and p0304 came back i erased it then p0302 came back then i change the cam sensors, and the crankshaft sensor and now it get a p0300.
Symptoms:
*when sitting for a long time HARD TO START ( takes multiple cranks to start it ) but once i leave it off for short time like 30 min it starts right up no problem
* when stop at a stop light in drive i can feel small little explosions sounds like my car is beat boxing
*performance is strong good acceleration no problem on that i just don't want it misfiring
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I have a 2008 nissan frontier SE 4x4 with 71K on her. I'm getting two codes from my checking engine light P0455 and P0447. The gas cap is new and tight.
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I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier pickup that I bought used in 2012. Shortly after I purchased it the the check engine light came on, would go off and back on. Last year (before inspection) I hooked it to the diagnostic auto scanner and it read the error as four oxygen sensors. The truck was running fine but in order to get it inspected I ended up changing all four sensors. The light came back on within the week (as soon as it rained) then would go off a few days later. Rain--on, then off. I managed to get it in for inspection on one of the days the light was off. So, now it is again inspection time. Light is on, still error on the scanner as oxygen sensors. Light has not gone off in a long time.
Also noting here that I have checked this error on several different scanners. The truck is running fine. Before I take it to the dealership is there anything else this could be?
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last fall, the check engine light came on- Autozone states the knock sensor is bad. At the same time, odometer/cruise would work off and on. Now as months have gone by, the odometer RARELY works. Could all the electrical issues be connected? Is odometer controlled by Speed Sensor on the transmission or somewhere else?
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My 2002 Nissan Sentra's check engine light keeps coming on. It came on about three weeks ago, and our mechanic replaced an oxygen sensor. Two or three days later, it came back on. He figured the first sensor was faulty, and replaced it with another. The light came on as I was driving away from the place. The mechanic replaced some of the wires. And now, a week after that, the light came on again.
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I filled up my gas after it was a little under half a tank . I tighten my gas cap . I started my car then out of the blue the check engine came on. I shut off car and tighten gas cap again making sure it was as tight as it could be . I started my car again and the solid check engine light stayed. It is a 2006 Nissan sentra automatic 1.8 . About 70,000 miles
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I keep failing my emissions because my check engine light keeps coming on. I was told that the problem was the catalytic converter rear and needed to buy one for both sides. The problem I am having that I don;t know which Catalytic Converter I should buy. I know without it is causing my car to stutter. Which I should get?
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My wife has a problem with the check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer has replaced the fuel pump twice (which they say is the problem) but it keeps happening.
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My 1999 Nissan Altima. Has a check engine light code P 1447. Car stalled needed a jump to get started. Left it by the mechanic running and stalled again what could it be?
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I live in CA and recently my car passed the smog test, but failed inspection because the check engine light on the board was on. When the diagnostic test was done, it said there's a problem with the catalytic converter. It's so frustrating because the car's emissions are within limits. , I was thinking... Is there a way to get the catalytic converter to run cleaner without replacing it? If it can run long enough to pass the diagnostic test, my car could pass inspection.
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