My sons 1998 nissan altima has engine coolant leaking from the air conditioning compressor my best guess is a leak in radiator has slugged the compressor and both are toast . I see there is separate cooler for ac is it possible to isolate that section while repairing so he can still drive to work (short distance less than mile) while I find replacement or is it not possible...
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 nissan altima. About 4 weeks ago it started over heating, smoke coming from under the hood, not the gauge raising. I took it to my mechanic and he replaced the big hose going from the radiator to the engine. I got it back and about 2 days later it started again overheating again, smoke under the hood. Took it back and he said the radiator is leaking it was under a year old so he replaced it, i drove it home on a sunday and monday morning I drove to work 5 miles at 10 am break it had two puddles under it. He said it's the radiator again, replaced it and we went to pick it up and he said it blew again. Sounds odd to me He finally said they thought it was the fans. The gauge never ran hot only the smoke coming from under the hood. If your looking under the hood it was wet on the left side. Needless to say he has had my car for almost 2 weeks and it's still not fixed. My question is should I go get it and take it somewhere else. What damage will it do to drive it somewhere else?
View 19 Replies2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
View 1 RepliesMy 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid has had this recurring problem since I purchased it used and I learned the original owner had the same recurring issue and other owners on the internet also. Typically when I go to start my car in the morning, after my car has sat in the garage over night, I depress the brake and the ignition button and **ALL** the warning lights come on including the EV mode ready and Service Engine light but the car has no power steering and the gas engine won't start at all. The car is drivable for about 30 seconds in EV mode then dies. When the car is at the dealer the car starts fine and they can't replicate the issue but find the following DTC's: UOO73, UO100 ECM 211, UO100 ECM 530, UO123, UO124, U0126, U0129 BRAKE 220, UO293,UO131 EPS 433, UO121 EPS 434, U1020, U1022. Nissan replaced the hybrid battery, the hybrid harness and the main car harness and now they say there is nothing more they can do to fix the problem. The problem remains. Have you had the same or a similar issue?
View 8 RepliesI have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
View 5 RepliesStarted my car the other morning to go to work (4:45 AM) with no problem and drove about one mile. Not wet weather. The engine dies, all lights that come on at start up (engine, alt, etc.) come on and I glided to the side. Tried starting it again - engine tried but did not catch. Tried a few more times and called AAA.
Towed it to a mechanic. Waited about 2 hours for them to open. They were able to drive it the rest of the day with no problem but they had the same thing happen the next morning (yesterday). Then it didn't happen to them today. One more try tomorrow and I hope they can identify it then.
2000 Nissan Altima w/150K miles, gas was less than 1/4 mark, no system lights on.
My 2003 Nissan Altima recently started giving me trouble where I will drive for at least 20 minutes, stop to run an errand, come back, and the engine won't turn over. The first time this happened my check engine light came on. I brought it into the shop and had the cam sensors replaced. I'm still having the same problem. The engine cranks and the battery checked out okay. Car has 93,000 miles on it. I can usually get it to start after 5-10 minutes by cranking and pushing the gas to the floor. Could this be a fuel issue?
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a prev. owned Nissan Altima (2006) 113,000 miles from the Honda dealer. Two months later I took it to the Nissan dealer to have something checked and they told me the car was two & half qts. low on oil. I had only driven it to the store and back; not on the interstate. I allowed them to fix motor mount and replace seals and fill oil. I took it back 1 mo. later; everything ok. Again went back to have it checked. before driving it from PNS to S. Fl. Got the go ahead! Off I went thinking they had fixed the problem, when I noticed the rpm's were between 3 & 4 at 60 mph on interstate.
I kept the needle on 3 , to & from. Upon return, I heard a rattle under the hood, oil lt. came on. Next day, took it to Nissan dealer who said there was 1 qt. oil left in it. They examined the engine thoroughly this time. The verdict: a bad catalytic converter (neglected by prev. owner) engine sucked up micro gaskets...used a term 'combust blow out', and recommended I sell the car or get a rebuilt engine. I signed off on a dozen papers at the honda dealer; 'as is'. they showed me a carfax but I did not receive a copy.
I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE with 160,000 miles. I took my car in for an overheating problem yesterday after I noticed the coolant was leaking out of my car. I needed a simple hose repair to fix the leak problem, but now they want to replace the temperature gauge because they say that it is still running hot due to: "temperature gauge is stuck and not letting the cold water in." He said that he fixed the hose and it is blowing the cool air to the motor, so the only problem could be the temperature gauge.
Within the past year, I replaced the radiator and hoses. He is saying the temperature gauge + labor would amount to around $300. The car is probably worth around $2250 for a dealer trade-in. I am planning on trading-in the Pathfinder towards the purchase of new one once I am able to present it to the dealer in workable condition. What to do?
I have an old 83 datsun pickup. It is my first car and I love it and it has more character than most people that I know. one day it just started leaking antifreeze. I looked under the hood and could see a steady leak way down on the bottom driver's side of my engine. What's the problem and how can I fix it? No matter what, getting rid of this car is not an option.
View 11 RepliesMy sister drives a 2005 Nissan Altima. I am not real familiar with Japanese OEMs but I do most of my own repair work on my car (which currently has issues of its own). What's wrong and how do I go about making the repair...
View 8 RepliesI have a 2005 Nissan Altima with a SERVICE ENGINE light that refuses to stay off. Initially, upon hooking the car up to my mechanics computer, the code indicated a faulty crankcase sensor. I purchased the sensor and it was installed. I was then told to drive 30 or 40 miles at various speeds, stop and go traffic without shutting off the engine to reset the computer. This was done twice without success. The light remains on . The inspection was due in December and this is becoming very frustrating not to mention illegal to drive these 40 mile circuits. I have even disconnected the battery, reconnected (light off!), and drove ANOTHER 40 miles. The light stayed off while driving but came back on after restarting. 3 times , 2 different mechanics reset the cars computer with theirs. 4 different computers still diagnose a faulty crankcase sensor. The sensor has been replaced twice. Everyone is stumped and I really don't want to take the car to a dealer.
View 18 RepliesI'm having two slightly strange issues with a 2007 Nissan Altima 2.5S...
First, after driving for about 30 minutes on warmer/hot days (above 85 degrees) the temperature gauge starts rising and then the A/C starts blowing out hot air for a while. After a minute or two the temp gauge goes back down and the A/C goes cool again. The only reason I bring it up is this something new that has never happened before, even in the hottest summers and it only happens when it over 85/87 degrees.
Second issue is a bit stranger... After driving for 20-30 minutes the car will start "jumping". It feels like the engine loses a cylinder and then it kicks back on. It almost feels like the car is stuttering, if that makes any sense. This happens intermittently and only after driving for a slightly extended period of time. It also seems to be independent of the speed at which I am traveling. I took it to the Nissan dealer and they said they couldn't reproduce the problem and couldn't really look into anything because the Check Engine light was not on, so they had no code to go by, or something to that effect.
last fall, the check engine light came on- Autozone states the knock sensor is bad. At the same time, odometer/cruise would work off and on. Now as months have gone by, the odometer RARELY works. Could all the electrical issues be connected? Is odometer controlled by Speed Sensor on the transmission or somewhere else?
View 2 RepliesI have a 4 cylinder, 2002 Nissan Altima with about 170,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago, the car starting misfiring while driving and the engine light came on. I went to autozone, used their diagnostic tool and it said I needed to replace the fourth cylinder's ignition coil. I ended up just replacing the spark plugs at that point. After replacing the spark plugs, the misfiring seemed to stop, but the check engine light was still on although the car ran great in comparison.
Then, about 2 weeks ago, the car started smelling like gas and slightly misfiring again. I bought set of ignition coils and changed them out. I started it up, the car seemed to work great. I went to the store about an hour later and the car worked better all the way there with no problems. Then, as I was about to leave the store, I started the car up and it started sputtering and misfiring and you could visibly see the engine shaking like crazy when I popped the hood. It stopped shaking, evened itself out, after about a minute. Then, I felt the top each of the coils and the first three were fine, but the fourth had a rapid tapping coming from it that was obviously not right.
I gave it a couple of days, but the car didn't stop smelling like gas or misfiring when starting up, so I pulled out the ignition coils and the spark plugs. The fourth spark plug was brown and burnt from the bottom to the halfway point, unlike the other still-clean spark plugs. My first hopeful thought was, maybe it wasn't tight enough and that was letting gas or oil inside to burn. I tightened it up, put everything back and it seemed to be alright, even the tapping from the coil stopped.
However, within the last couple days, the car has been smelling like gas and feels like it sputters and misfires once I start it up. The misfiring seems to stop after I rev the engine a little bit, but sometimes when I'm idling, you can still smell the gas and sometimes audibly hear a sputtering.
So my question is: what the hell could be wrong? Faulty wires, a stuck valve, bad compression, what? Remember, the fourth cylinder's spark plug was only burnt on the bottom half if that's useful.
My wife has a problem with the check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer has replaced the fuel pump twice (which they say is the problem) but it keeps happening.
View 4 RepliesI have a nissan altima 2001. I have 128,000 miles on it. I have fully paid for the car. While climbing a steep hill at 2nd gear, the engine overheated, and I seem to have broken the gasket. What are my prospects? Should I put a new engine, should I fix the gasket or should I abandon the car?
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 Nissan Altima has been fairly reliable up until the past two years, as it seems several aspects of the cars performance are starting to decline rapidly. I recently changed a headlight bulb, and upon reconnecting the battery, the engine refused to turn over and catch when I turned the ignition. After several tries, the car started and I noticed the check engine light has come on. I took it to AutoZone to get a read out, and the told me that I got two error codes: one for crankshaft position sensor and one for engine speed sensor. It's been a while since I got the readout, and I lost the paper with that I wrote the codes on, but I think the codes may have been P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor and P0725 for the engine speed sensor.
I changed the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors on my car, and the problem changed from a major problem to a moderate problem. The car performance now:
1) The check engine light is still on
2) When starting my car, I turn the ignition to connect the battery, wait a few seconds, turn to start the engine, and it takes about 3 turnover attempts before the engine catches and the car starts (inserting the key and turning it straight over to try and turn on the car often results in turnover attempts with no start).
3) When driving, the car now shifts hard at times and seems to be changing gears at higher RPMs than expected.
4) When going up a steep incline, as I press on the gas, the car RPMs go up but the car does not accelerate like it used to. It eventually shifts very hard into the lower gear and then I can accelerate up the incline at a much higher RPM rate than expected
I was reading wear these issues may be caused by a clogged fuel system, but I wanted to check with some of you guys to see what you think it may be before I go trying a fix on anything.
In terms of car care, I would say I'm fairly responsible. I get the oil changed regularly, and have always gotten scheduled maintenance taken care of as well as any maintenance at the recommendations of the mechanics I trust.
My 1999 Nissan Altima. Has a check engine light code P 1447. Car stalled needed a jump to get started. Left it by the mechanic running and stalled again what could it be?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Nissan Altima that I just barely got and it has started to show signs of trouble.
Sometimes when I put the vehicle into drive and step on the gas the car will not move and instead the engine will rev.I'll put the car back into park and then into drive and it'll work fine.
I checked the ATF, which was incredibly low and refilled it. The engine oil was also very low, which was refilled. The problem still persists. So I decided to add a bottle of Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas tank.
I took the car for a short drive and nothing happened aside from the fact that the Check Engine light now comes on and off. The car also idles between 1000-1500 rpms.
I've got a 1997 Nissan Altima (automatic, GXE). Recently it has started stalling. Usually this happens when the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (though last night it happened when the engine had just started).
Usually when it stalls it will start right back up, but sometimes it takes a few minutes. Sometimes it will start back up and die right away, other times it will turn over and over but not start. After a few minutes it will start back up. Sometimes it will stall momentarily and then restart right away, but not usually.
The rest of the time the car runs smooth as ever, no surging, no stalling, no erratic idling, no sputtering or anything. Usually the check engine light will come on after a stall, but I get a "no code" code when I check.
This started about two weeks ago, it did it once on a Saturday and then didn't do it again until Wednesday. Since then it has happened at least once a day, and yesterday it happened a lot while I was driving home, but not at all when I headed to work. Today it was fine for about 15 minutes and then started doing it a lot, but the last 3 or 4 miles it was fine again.
What may be the problem? I'm going to check the MAF and throttle position sensors, though I would assume if they were malfunctioning I'd either have more symptoms or I'd be getting a code.