Nissan - Altima :: 2007 Won't Accelerate / RPMs Remain At Idle
Jul 4, 2014
My wife's 2007 Nissan Altima recently started to exhibit a strange symptom. For no apparent reason, the gas pedal suddenly had no effect. The engine remains running but adding gas, even stomping the pedal to the floorboard has no effect. The RPMs remain at idle and the vehicle comes slowly to a complete stop, which is horrifying on a traffic-choked highway. My wife figured out that, if she turns the car off, then starts it again, the car miraculously seems to function properly again. We have taken the car to the Nissan dealership where they first replaced the throttle chamber assembly.
This had no effect and the second visit; they replaced the ACC/PEDAL (not sure what that is exactly. Again, no effect. The third time, they replaced the throttle position sensor and the engine control module at no cost, certainly as a result of our visible and verbal frustration. Guess what? Same problem yesterday.. Out of exasperation, I performed the simplest of Google searches (Nissan Altima won’t accelerate) and I found link after link to sites and blogs about this very issue. It seems that the cvt transmission has something to do with it. How should I handle this situation?
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I have a 2008 Altima coupe SE V6 with a manual transmission and approximately 45,000 miles. Recently, I have been having an issue with cruise control when going uphill. It started that I could not accelerate using the cruise control button going uphill without the cruise control cancelling. If I hit the "resume" button, the cruise control would try and accelerate again and cancel out again. Since I took it in earlier this week, the cruise control has been cancelling whenever going up even a relatively modest hill whether I'm accelerating or not, so, whatever the issue is, it appears to be getting worse.
Assuming it was a problem with the cruise control itself (which would presumably be covered under warranty) I took the car to a Nissan dealer. They said that the clutch was wearing out and so the gear was slipping (or something) when the cruise control was trying to accelerate, causing the cruise control to cancel.
I was pretty shocked given that the car only has 45,000 miles on it and I don't grind the gears or ride the clutch. I spend a good bit of time in D.C. area traffic, but even considering that, 45,000 miles?? I did buy the car used, so it's possible that the previous owner did a number on the car in the first 10,000 miles or so, but it still seemed unlikely. I haven't noticed any other symptoms of the clutch dying except that recently, when I accelerate in 1st gear and am around the engagement point, occasionally there is sort of a metal-on-metal sound; almost like when breaks need new pads or something, but not as high pitched or loud.
Any thoughts on: a) if the issue is really the clutch, and b) if so, why it would cost so much to replace?
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My Nissan Altima is normally fine but after about 40 minutes to an hour of driving even in cool temperatures the car stops wanting to accelerate much and the RPM needle will jump from 1-2k to 5k almost instantly when applying more gas. I can be at 5k RPMs and barely climb 1 to 2 mph every few seconds in my car. This issue will persist till I turn the car off for a short while. Once The car has cooled down and been idle for a bit the car works fine again for 40 to 60 minutes. I also don't want to take it in because I doubt they'll get the problem to reproduce unless they drive it for up to an hour.
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My son owns a 2008 Nissan Altima with about 110,000 miles. The engine has a ticking noise that is louder and faster when the car accelerates. It is worse when the car is cold. Once it warms up, the noise will get less and even goes away. Valves? Doesn't seem to be tire related and we recently had the belts checked and replaced when needed.
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If I dont constantly keep my foot on the gas pedal then my car will die.
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My 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid has had this recurring problem since I purchased it used and I learned the original owner had the same recurring issue and other owners on the internet also. Typically when I go to start my car in the morning, after my car has sat in the garage over night, I depress the brake and the ignition button and **ALL** the warning lights come on including the EV mode ready and Service Engine light but the car has no power steering and the gas engine won't start at all. The car is drivable for about 30 seconds in EV mode then dies. When the car is at the dealer the car starts fine and they can't replicate the issue but find the following DTC's: UOO73, UO100 ECM 211, UO100 ECM 530, UO123, UO124, U0126, U0129 BRAKE 220, UO293,UO131 EPS 433, UO121 EPS 434, U1020, U1022. Nissan replaced the hybrid battery, the hybrid harness and the main car harness and now they say there is nothing more they can do to fix the problem. The problem remains. Have you had the same or a similar issue?
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It ran out of gas with the previous owner and they say the steering is new and the hybrid battery is new and the 12 volt is new but when I got it I had to get the 12volt battery trickle charge which it charge to 80 percent and it still didn't start only goings from lock, acc, then on never say ready no sound but when I pull the IGCT relay the fans come on but it don't start what is this relay?is this car just like Toyota primis. What could be the problem of this mechanism to get it running I have the only one in my town which no one knows how to work on It.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid that usually runs really well. I get my oil changed and my tires rotated at the recommended times.Now that the rainy season is upon us, I'm having a hard time starting my car. It starts sometimes, but not all the time. Heavier rains seem to decrease the likelihood of starting, though sometimes it starts just fine, rain or shine.
It's got a push button start. I've recently replaced the battery in the key. When I try to start the car, it acts like I've pressed "on" without holding down the brake. The lights and the radio come on, but the engine doesn't start.
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I have a 2007 nissan Altima and the sun roof is not working. It does not go back when you press the button. The vent will go up when you press the vent button on the sunroof but the sunroof itself will not go back. I have checked fuses and it's not that. Also it seems that the top of the sunroof on the outside of the car seems to be dropping down slightly on the left side. Could it be off track?
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Here is a weird issue on a 07 Nissan Altima. Just recently, the air conditioning started blowing weak when I hit highway speeds (around 60+). It still blows cold..., but is very faint no matter what speed the blower is on. I can still hear the blower cranking away, but very little air coming out of the vents. If i turn the a/c button off...it takes a little bit, like 20 seconds, but the air starts blowing through the vents again. Wait a bit and hit the a/c button and blammo - a/c. It lasts for about 10 minutes and happens all over again. Only at high speeds. at low speeds, everything works like a champ.
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My automatic 2007 Nissan Altima has developed an intermittent problem when I go to shift it into park it won't shift down past neutral. I can't physically move the gear shift past neutral and can't take my key out of the car. If I wait awhile or drive off somewhere else it will later allow me to shift normally again and won't happen for awhile. It has happened maybe 8-9 times but I worry it will get worse or break the transmission. I've taken it to a mechanic and they looked at the transmission and didn't see a problem but sense they couldn't recreate the issue they couldn't fix it.
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My families 2001 Nissan sentra often stalls at stoplights, has low power sometimes in the low rpm's and sometimes (though not always) chugs/jolts a bit at low rpms and has trouble "overcoming" that window and getting more power. If I give it more gas the engine seems to get "normal" at around 2500 or 3000 rpm's and then is fine.
We took it in and the mechanic said it was a bad O2 sensor or MAF sensor... can't remember which. We tried replacing the MAF sensor but it still has the problem. We have heard that we may need the computer re-set somehow or made to recognize and sync up with the new part. As we call around this is very expensive just to make a part that is already installed work. Is this necessary? What's the next, cheapest, step.
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i have a 2003 nissan altima with 99288 miles on it. i just got it changed yesterday and one of the tech's showed me and said there was condensation on the oil cap and the oil was dark. he recommened an oil system cleaner. is this accurate or is there something more i should worry about? he also said i was 1/2 qt low. last time i got my oil changed at the same place he said my oil was 2qts low and recommened a semi sythenic blend to flush things out, which i did do. i usually get my oil changed about every 4000 miles or so, i try for 3000 but not too successful. i also drive 1/2 hr to and from work every day at a min.
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As I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
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So, my family owns a 2006 Nissan Altima, and it's developed a strange problem recently. It would start fine when cold, but then if I park it and come back 20 minutes later, it won't start again. Apparently this is a thing that happens with Altimas. Now for a while, it was starting after two or three tries, but now it just simply isn't turning over. When I watch it under the hood, it shudders some, and then there's a puff of warm air/exhaust, i don't know. I've read it might be the cam shaft sensor, but after replacing that the problem hasn't gone away, and a few people have said it might be the fuel pump, but I replaced that as well and it's still not starting up. I'm thinking i might try to replace the crankshaft sensor next but I thought I would ask here for advice and opinions just in case. This isnt the first time this has happened with this car, apparently - this happened once before, and the camshaft sensor being replaced fixed it.
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I have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
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on 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4-liter engine do you have to take off the valve cover to clean out EGR ports.
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
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My wife has a 2001 Nissan Altima GXE with 89,000 miles. The car seems to run hot with the temp gauge reaching the "H" but never passes it, andwhen air conditioner is on it blows hot air; Then the car cools down it the air cools again, and this seems to happen all of the time.
Now, it's been happening for at Least 3 months, during this time it has had a tune up, the radiator flushed & hoses, thermostat replaced & lastly the ..... Sensor has been replaced & still the same thing happens the car temp runs hot cold up then down. We are at a loss here.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Altima. I seem to be having a fan problem. I started noticing that about 2 seconds after I turned the car off, the fans would come back on and run for ~25-30 seconds. I brought it in and my mechanic was thinking maybe a defective thermostat, so we replaced that. It still keeps happening, but now I've realized that the fans come back on anytime the car is turned off when the fans are running. If the fans are not running, they won't come back on. I've been trying to pay more attention to what is going on and when I first turn on the car, no fans are on (at least not the high fan, not sure if there are more than 1) After driving around town, the fans will turn on.
Normally, I believe the fan should then turn off once the coolant temp gets below a certain level. I let the car sit idling in the driveway for 15 min and the fans never turned off. I took it back to mechanic and repeated the idling for 15 min, fans never turned off. He checked the coolant temp with some sort of sensor and the temps were reading between 166-170 depending on where he aimed his device, so he said the fans should be turning off and it doesn't seem like the car is overheating.If he unplugged the temperature sensor, the gauge would go all the way to cold, but nothing changed for the fans, so he didn't think that was the problem.He took the fan relays along the edge of the car and swapped them around and nothing changed, so didn't think it was a relay problem. He removed some sensor on the passenger side on the back part of the engine and the fans got really loud and really fast. When he replace that, the fans would go back to normal until the engine temp got hot enough to turn them on and then they wouldn't go off again. He's thinking that sensor might be the problem, but isn't 100% sure. I think he said this was the cooling fan sensor or switch.
On a side note that may or may not be related. About 5 years ago the water pump broke. It started having the fans on all the time (even from a cold start), that turned out to be a faulty knock sensor. There was a knock sensor code and he replaced the knock sensor and then the fans went back to normal cycling. I didn't have any problems until early last fall, when I started noticing my current problems. I didn't worry about it until now, because as it got colder outside, it wasn't an issue. So outside temperature definitely effects it.
There are no codes this time.
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2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s.
I started my car yesterday and the radio came on as normal. When I turned off the car, it did not shut off as normal. This continued through a couple of stops.
When I got home and turned off the car, the radio was still playing. I disconnected the battery, the radio stopped. I reconnected the battery and now the radio will not turn on but everything else in the car is working fine.
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