Nissan - Altima :: 2007 Won't Start / No Ready Light
Aug 24, 2014
It ran out of gas with the previous owner and they say the steering is new and the hybrid battery is new and the 12 volt is new but when I got it I had to get the 12volt battery trickle charge which it charge to 80 percent and it still didn't start only goings from lock, acc, then on never say ready no sound but when I pull the IGCT relay the fans come on but it don't start what is this relay?is this car just like Toyota primis. What could be the problem of this mechanism to get it running I have the only one in my town which no one knows how to work on It.
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My 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid has had this recurring problem since I purchased it used and I learned the original owner had the same recurring issue and other owners on the internet also. Typically when I go to start my car in the morning, after my car has sat in the garage over night, I depress the brake and the ignition button and **ALL** the warning lights come on including the EV mode ready and Service Engine light but the car has no power steering and the gas engine won't start at all. The car is drivable for about 30 seconds in EV mode then dies. When the car is at the dealer the car starts fine and they can't replicate the issue but find the following DTC's: UOO73, UO100 ECM 211, UO100 ECM 530, UO123, UO124, U0126, U0129 BRAKE 220, UO293,UO131 EPS 433, UO121 EPS 434, U1020, U1022. Nissan replaced the hybrid battery, the hybrid harness and the main car harness and now they say there is nothing more they can do to fix the problem. The problem remains. Have you had the same or a similar issue?
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I have a 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid that usually runs really well. I get my oil changed and my tires rotated at the recommended times.Now that the rainy season is upon us, I'm having a hard time starting my car. It starts sometimes, but not all the time. Heavier rains seem to decrease the likelihood of starting, though sometimes it starts just fine, rain or shine.
It's got a push button start. I've recently replaced the battery in the key. When I try to start the car, it acts like I've pressed "on" without holding down the brake. The lights and the radio come on, but the engine doesn't start.
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I have a 2007 nissan Altima and the sun roof is not working. It does not go back when you press the button. The vent will go up when you press the vent button on the sunroof but the sunroof itself will not go back. I have checked fuses and it's not that. Also it seems that the top of the sunroof on the outside of the car seems to be dropping down slightly on the left side. Could it be off track?
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My wife's 2007 Nissan Altima recently started to exhibit a strange symptom. For no apparent reason, the gas pedal suddenly had no effect. The engine remains running but adding gas, even stomping the pedal to the floorboard has no effect. The RPMs remain at idle and the vehicle comes slowly to a complete stop, which is horrifying on a traffic-choked highway. My wife figured out that, if she turns the car off, then starts it again, the car miraculously seems to function properly again. We have taken the car to the Nissan dealership where they first replaced the throttle chamber assembly.
This had no effect and the second visit; they replaced the ACC/PEDAL (not sure what that is exactly. Again, no effect. The third time, they replaced the throttle position sensor and the engine control module at no cost, certainly as a result of our visible and verbal frustration. Guess what? Same problem yesterday.. Out of exasperation, I performed the simplest of Google searches (Nissan Altima won’t accelerate) and I found link after link to sites and blogs about this very issue. It seems that the cvt transmission has something to do with it. How should I handle this situation?
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Here is a weird issue on a 07 Nissan Altima. Just recently, the air conditioning started blowing weak when I hit highway speeds (around 60+). It still blows cold..., but is very faint no matter what speed the blower is on. I can still hear the blower cranking away, but very little air coming out of the vents. If i turn the a/c button off...it takes a little bit, like 20 seconds, but the air starts blowing through the vents again. Wait a bit and hit the a/c button and blammo - a/c. It lasts for about 10 minutes and happens all over again. Only at high speeds. at low speeds, everything works like a champ.
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
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I bought a new battery when my car would not start, but that was not the problem. There is no code, just sometimes the car won't start. I am pretty sure it does not make a clicking noise, and if I keep trying to turn it over, eventually it starts.
This happens maybe one day a week. It might click once each but I will now pay closer attention. It sometimes comes on after a few tries and sometimes at the most 10 tries. It has been doing this for about 2 months max.
My question is could this be anything but the starter and can I tell by putting it in neutral or doing anything else without having to take the car somewhere or without taking it apart? I already bought a starter.
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My automatic 2007 Nissan Altima has developed an intermittent problem when I go to shift it into park it won't shift down past neutral. I can't physically move the gear shift past neutral and can't take my key out of the car. If I wait awhile or drive off somewhere else it will later allow me to shift normally again and won't happen for awhile. It has happened maybe 8-9 times but I worry it will get worse or break the transmission. I've taken it to a mechanic and they looked at the transmission and didn't see a problem but sense they couldn't recreate the issue they couldn't fix it.
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I have 1995 Nissan Altima and it will not start. When I jump the car battery with the jumper cable and when the Cables are connected, the Car starts. As soon as I take the jumper cables out, the rpm drops and immediately the Car engine dies (stops). I checked the battery with Digital Multimeter and the batter is good. This Car was run on very low engine oil (way below the "Low" mark on the Dip stick for 3 days running 30 to 40 miles/day. 2 or 3 months, I noted that engine oil "Low" indicator on my dashboard and did not get oil change immediately. Since this car is my second car, I do not use it every day. It is parked always, and I start it once in 3 or 4 days and run it for 20 minutes to make sure that Battery will not go down. Few weekends before this problem, the car started well and I did not notice any "low" engine oil indicator on the dashboard. So, I never changed the engine oil as I forgot about it.
3 weeks back, I gave the Car to a friend of mine who came here from another state. He took it to his office ( 15 mile away ) and in the evening the car would not start. Finally, someone had jump started power station and they jumped the car with it. The car started Next day, he did not use this car. 3rd day, the car started when I jumped the car in the morning, and he took it to an office and did not have any problems coming back (total 30 to 40 miles). 4th day, he went to an office in the morning and when he was coming back, the Car died on the road. He got it jumped 1or 2 times and came very close to my home. It died again. After 1 or 2 hours, I came back from office and pressed the gas pedal few times and started it. It started and when I was in my parking place, it died again. Finally, when I parked in the parking lot, I noticed that the steering wheel (it is power steering) became very stiff and would not turn. Also, I noticed smoke smell when I opened the hood. I had to drop my friend in the airport, so I took my good car and took him to airport.
Afterward, I tried to start with jumper cable. The car will start and the engine runs when it is still connected to another car with cables. As soon as I disconnect the cable the rpm drops and engine dies. After noticing that the dip stick shows the oil is way below "Low" mark (there was still some oil on the "tip" of drip stick), I put in 2 quarters of engine oil. I tried starting with jumper cables. The car starts and the engine runs when the jumper cables are connected, when I take them out, the rpm drops and the engine dies. Considering the following:
- This car needs to be towed to the nearest mechanic.
- The Battery is Good and I do not know about the alternator. I noticed "smoke" smell under the hood near engine and alternator when I jumped the Car when my friend was using it. Also, there was lot of noise from the engine when my friend used it for 3 or 4 days (now, I know that it is because there was almost no engine oil). Did the smoke I noticed is because alternator got burnt or due to the burning of gadget b/w engine upper and lower block etc (expensive)?
- The drop in rpm when I disconnect jumper cables - is it due to major damage to the engine. If so, is it worth taking the car to the mechanic and getting repaired.
- If it is not worth repairing this Car, what is the least effective way, I get read of this Car? I want to know whether any car dealer or mechanic shop will buy it for parts etc.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Altima with a few miles on it.(217,734) The A.C. works great while it is on, but it will stop working then start back up. Out of frustration I will turn it off and on until it starts up again. It will run for a little bit then cut out again and I repeat the process. I have switched out the relays and checked the belts, all is well there. What could be the problem?
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My car intermittently will not start for no reason. I first thought the fuel pump going out, but you can hear it and no issues with the car running. I was told the Altima has no fuel filter only a screen, so that's not it? The car will start perfectly 10 times in a row and then it just cranks & cranks & cranks almost to the point of draining my battery. The battery is good (had it checked). Then all of a sudden after cranking the car (good cranking) it'll start right up & run normal ... No fuel leaks to be seen, just out of options?? I called a local garage to ask about a diagnostic check and was told without a code he wouldn't know where to start. Well, unless I bring it in when having the problem - that's not possible. 2005 Nissan Altima SE...
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I have a 2006, Nissan, Altima, 3.5se. The vehicle has about 75k miles on it, and is driven about twice a week. I have had no issues until recently. The problem is the vehicle will not start. About three weeks ago I notices one of the bulbs in the headlight and fog lamps had gone out so I replaced them. (I only share this because it is the only thing that changed. Shortly there after I would go out start the car, drive a short distance, park, turn off the car, and come back 15-20 minutes later. When I went to start the car there was no electrical activity .
The battery was completely dead. I had the battery tested, and replaced, thinking this was the problem. Nope still does it. Next I changed all the fuses, thinking a fuse might be going bad, nope issue is still there. I had the new battery tested- it is good, I had the alternator tested 2 different times, it is running and charging the battery. There is nothing left on to drain the battery, as I have turned off the auto door light, unplugged all the phone chargers, and it still does it. When the car won;t start there is no electrical activity. When I go to jump start it it jump starts immediately. It does not cut off while driving. The problem is only when I go to start the vehicle. The alternator comes to mind, but it doesn't cut while the vehicle is idling or driving.
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Car is hard to start when sitting about 9 hours or longer to a day without being started up it is hard to crank over, I am at a loss to what is causing it, the car has a new battery, new distributor rotor w/wires and cap, my car is an 1993 Nissan stanza ALTIMA GXE w/automatic seat-belts, the car is fully loaded Except for sun roof or heated seats, I do have 242360+ miles on the car. I kept the car well maintained from Nissan, and they can't find anything wrong with it. is this the case of just old age on the cars behalf? what I do notice is there's a slight drop in voltage reading on battery the night before to the next day, can a starter be my problem??
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My Nissan Altima 2006 without a warning stopped turning over. My mechanic has checked the fuel pump, fuel injectors, fuel filter and even the computer. Still to no avail...
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I have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
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My 08 altima cruise control comes on and the set light keeps blinking the service book says take it to my dealer is there anything I can do to fix it myself could it be a air leak or something?
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I have a 2005 Nissan Altima with a SERVICE ENGINE light that refuses to stay off. Initially, upon hooking the car up to my mechanics computer, the code indicated a faulty crankcase sensor. I purchased the sensor and it was installed. I was then told to drive 30 or 40 miles at various speeds, stop and go traffic without shutting off the engine to reset the computer. This was done twice without success. The light remains on . The inspection was due in December and this is becoming very frustrating not to mention illegal to drive these 40 mile circuits. I have even disconnected the battery, reconnected (light off!), and drove ANOTHER 40 miles. The light stayed off while driving but came back on after restarting. 3 times , 2 different mechanics reset the cars computer with theirs. 4 different computers still diagnose a faulty crankcase sensor. The sensor has been replaced twice. Everyone is stumped and I really don't want to take the car to a dealer.
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Warning light appeared, pressure adjusted to 32 psig on all four tires, but light will not go out, even after several miles of driving. Are the tire valve stem Caps special for this feature? I have lost one and replaced it with another type I had.
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last fall, the check engine light came on- Autozone states the knock sensor is bad. At the same time, odometer/cruise would work off and on. Now as months have gone by, the odometer RARELY works. Could all the electrical issues be connected? Is odometer controlled by Speed Sensor on the transmission or somewhere else?
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I have a 4 cylinder, 2002 Nissan Altima with about 170,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago, the car starting misfiring while driving and the engine light came on. I went to autozone, used their diagnostic tool and it said I needed to replace the fourth cylinder's ignition coil. I ended up just replacing the spark plugs at that point. After replacing the spark plugs, the misfiring seemed to stop, but the check engine light was still on although the car ran great in comparison.
Then, about 2 weeks ago, the car started smelling like gas and slightly misfiring again. I bought set of ignition coils and changed them out. I started it up, the car seemed to work great. I went to the store about an hour later and the car worked better all the way there with no problems. Then, as I was about to leave the store, I started the car up and it started sputtering and misfiring and you could visibly see the engine shaking like crazy when I popped the hood. It stopped shaking, evened itself out, after about a minute. Then, I felt the top each of the coils and the first three were fine, but the fourth had a rapid tapping coming from it that was obviously not right.
I gave it a couple of days, but the car didn't stop smelling like gas or misfiring when starting up, so I pulled out the ignition coils and the spark plugs. The fourth spark plug was brown and burnt from the bottom to the halfway point, unlike the other still-clean spark plugs. My first hopeful thought was, maybe it wasn't tight enough and that was letting gas or oil inside to burn. I tightened it up, put everything back and it seemed to be alright, even the tapping from the coil stopped.
However, within the last couple days, the car has been smelling like gas and feels like it sputters and misfires once I start it up. The misfiring seems to stop after I rev the engine a little bit, but sometimes when I'm idling, you can still smell the gas and sometimes audibly hear a sputtering.
So my question is: what the hell could be wrong? Faulty wires, a stuck valve, bad compression, what? Remember, the fourth cylinder's spark plug was only burnt on the bottom half if that's useful.
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