Nissan - Altima :: 2007 - AC Blows Weak At High Speeds
Oct 10, 2014
Here is a weird issue on a 07 Nissan Altima. Just recently, the air conditioning started blowing weak when I hit highway speeds (around 60+). It still blows cold..., but is very faint no matter what speed the blower is on. I can still hear the blower cranking away, but very little air coming out of the vents. If i turn the a/c button off...it takes a little bit, like 20 seconds, but the air starts blowing through the vents again. Wait a bit and hit the a/c button and blammo - a/c. It lasts for about 10 minutes and happens all over again. Only at high speeds. at low speeds, everything works like a champ.
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This summer I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on a 97 Nissan Altima, had a bent wheel replaced, and had an alignment done. Everything worked smoothly for the last 5,000 or so miles. I had my tires rotated and balanced recently which created a new problem, a shaky steering wheel most noticeable at slow speeds. I've had a similar problem before and had it fixed by balancing the tires. I took it back in to have them rebalanced, thinking they may have forgotten to do it the first time. They rebalanced them and the problem has not changed at all.
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My 2001 altima wont shift to high gear. driving around town seems to be ok, will driving on the highway be dangerous?
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2002 Nissan Maxima with 118K miles. Heating and A/C buttons that turn the fan on different levels doesn't work. It will cut on/off but the setting can be on low and it always blows on high. The temp. is correct(heat or cold) on what we set...it just always blows on high no matter what we set. It is a bush button kind of setting not a dial that you turn.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima with 118K that the heating and a/c fan always blows on high. Even when you turn everything off. I've been told it's the blower motor resistor. Is there anyway to check with a volt meter before purchasing new one? Once I buy the new one I don't think I can return
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My 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid has had this recurring problem since I purchased it used and I learned the original owner had the same recurring issue and other owners on the internet also. Typically when I go to start my car in the morning, after my car has sat in the garage over night, I depress the brake and the ignition button and **ALL** the warning lights come on including the EV mode ready and Service Engine light but the car has no power steering and the gas engine won't start at all. The car is drivable for about 30 seconds in EV mode then dies. When the car is at the dealer the car starts fine and they can't replicate the issue but find the following DTC's: UOO73, UO100 ECM 211, UO100 ECM 530, UO123, UO124, U0126, U0129 BRAKE 220, UO293,UO131 EPS 433, UO121 EPS 434, U1020, U1022. Nissan replaced the hybrid battery, the hybrid harness and the main car harness and now they say there is nothing more they can do to fix the problem. The problem remains. Have you had the same or a similar issue?
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It ran out of gas with the previous owner and they say the steering is new and the hybrid battery is new and the 12 volt is new but when I got it I had to get the 12volt battery trickle charge which it charge to 80 percent and it still didn't start only goings from lock, acc, then on never say ready no sound but when I pull the IGCT relay the fans come on but it don't start what is this relay?is this car just like Toyota primis. What could be the problem of this mechanism to get it running I have the only one in my town which no one knows how to work on It.
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I have a 2007 Nissan Altima Hybrid that usually runs really well. I get my oil changed and my tires rotated at the recommended times.Now that the rainy season is upon us, I'm having a hard time starting my car. It starts sometimes, but not all the time. Heavier rains seem to decrease the likelihood of starting, though sometimes it starts just fine, rain or shine.
It's got a push button start. I've recently replaced the battery in the key. When I try to start the car, it acts like I've pressed "on" without holding down the brake. The lights and the radio come on, but the engine doesn't start.
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I have a 2007 nissan Altima and the sun roof is not working. It does not go back when you press the button. The vent will go up when you press the vent button on the sunroof but the sunroof itself will not go back. I have checked fuses and it's not that. Also it seems that the top of the sunroof on the outside of the car seems to be dropping down slightly on the left side. Could it be off track?
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My wife's 2007 Nissan Altima recently started to exhibit a strange symptom. For no apparent reason, the gas pedal suddenly had no effect. The engine remains running but adding gas, even stomping the pedal to the floorboard has no effect. The RPMs remain at idle and the vehicle comes slowly to a complete stop, which is horrifying on a traffic-choked highway. My wife figured out that, if she turns the car off, then starts it again, the car miraculously seems to function properly again. We have taken the car to the Nissan dealership where they first replaced the throttle chamber assembly.
This had no effect and the second visit; they replaced the ACC/PEDAL (not sure what that is exactly. Again, no effect. The third time, they replaced the throttle position sensor and the engine control module at no cost, certainly as a result of our visible and verbal frustration. Guess what? Same problem yesterday.. Out of exasperation, I performed the simplest of Google searches (Nissan Altima won’t accelerate) and I found link after link to sites and blogs about this very issue. It seems that the cvt transmission has something to do with it. How should I handle this situation?
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My automatic 2007 Nissan Altima has developed an intermittent problem when I go to shift it into park it won't shift down past neutral. I can't physically move the gear shift past neutral and can't take my key out of the car. If I wait awhile or drive off somewhere else it will later allow me to shift normally again and won't happen for awhile. It has happened maybe 8-9 times but I worry it will get worse or break the transmission. I've taken it to a mechanic and they looked at the transmission and didn't see a problem but sense they couldn't recreate the issue they couldn't fix it.
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I just bought a 2006 camry a few days ago and am noticing a little problem with the heat. It warms up fine when idling but blows weak and cooler when driving....there is also a slight engine noise. Not sure if related, I am by far not a mechanic. I did try to research this issue but am coming up with more of the opposite (no or weak heat idling/great heat while driving). We are replacing thermostat tomorrow. As far as other maintenance goes it seems that the previous owner just did oil changes and nothing else in the last 3 years (35k since then). Trying to do all the little things now but would like to resolve this issue while I have it in the shop.
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I have recently noticed that if I am driving at speeds above 40 mph and apply the brakes, the car (including the steering wheel) seems to buck/shake. I've learned to ease off the gas and let the speed drop before applying the brakes-- this seems to work, but I'm concerned about what is going on. This is an '07 Nissan Versa...
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I have a 2007 dodge Dakota with 112K miles. At 105K I had the front brake rotors and pads replaced. The rear brakes were fine. There was a problem with one of the rotors and I returned a week or two later and one, which was warped, was replaced. Ever since that second visit I have had an intermittent vibration from the vehicle. When I brake the whole truck vibrates. And by vibrating, I mean some pretty heavy shaking. It is not the steering wheel vibrating. I took this back to the mechanic where they were unable to find any issues with the brakes. Also, we could not (of course) re-create the issue while it was in the shop. I have not been able to find the pattern. It happens when I am braking at high speeds, but not every time. It also happens at lower speed, but again, not every time.
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i have a 2003 nissan altima with 99288 miles on it. i just got it changed yesterday and one of the tech's showed me and said there was condensation on the oil cap and the oil was dark. he recommened an oil system cleaner. is this accurate or is there something more i should worry about? he also said i was 1/2 qt low. last time i got my oil changed at the same place he said my oil was 2qts low and recommened a semi sythenic blend to flush things out, which i did do. i usually get my oil changed about every 4000 miles or so, i try for 3000 but not too successful. i also drive 1/2 hr to and from work every day at a min.
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As I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
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My 03' 6.0l hpop only makes about 1700 psi at wot, at hot idle the ipr is 25.1 and the icp is about 580. It runs pretty good but it seems the crank time to start is getting a little longer sometimes, other times it fires right up. It makes no difference if its hot or cold. Do pumps get weak or do you think I have a leak?....
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So, my family owns a 2006 Nissan Altima, and it's developed a strange problem recently. It would start fine when cold, but then if I park it and come back 20 minutes later, it won't start again. Apparently this is a thing that happens with Altimas. Now for a while, it was starting after two or three tries, but now it just simply isn't turning over. When I watch it under the hood, it shudders some, and then there's a puff of warm air/exhaust, i don't know. I've read it might be the cam shaft sensor, but after replacing that the problem hasn't gone away, and a few people have said it might be the fuel pump, but I replaced that as well and it's still not starting up. I'm thinking i might try to replace the crankshaft sensor next but I thought I would ask here for advice and opinions just in case. This isnt the first time this has happened with this car, apparently - this happened once before, and the camshaft sensor being replaced fixed it.
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I have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
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on 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4-liter engine do you have to take off the valve cover to clean out EGR ports.
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
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