I have a 2006 Nissan Altima with 142K miles. It is not starting right away. It coughs/sputters anywhere from 3 seconds to 10 seconds before turning over and starting. What the issue is?
View 3 RepliesSo, my family owns a 2006 Nissan Altima, and it's developed a strange problem recently. It would start fine when cold, but then if I park it and come back 20 minutes later, it won't start again. Apparently this is a thing that happens with Altimas. Now for a while, it was starting after two or three tries, but now it just simply isn't turning over. When I watch it under the hood, it shudders some, and then there's a puff of warm air/exhaust, i don't know. I've read it might be the cam shaft sensor, but after replacing that the problem hasn't gone away, and a few people have said it might be the fuel pump, but I replaced that as well and it's still not starting up. I'm thinking i might try to replace the crankshaft sensor next but I thought I would ask here for advice and opinions just in case. This isnt the first time this has happened with this car, apparently - this happened once before, and the camshaft sensor being replaced fixed it.
View 15 RepliesI have a 1995 Nissan Altima GXE (2.4l) that has been driving me nuts. After the engine warms up, it blows oil smoke out the exhaust pipe whenever I start from a complete stop. I can be stopped for 30 seconds or three minutes, it doesn’t matter, it will have the same amount of oil smoke cloud. The engine does not smoke when first started up when either hot or cold (so no bad valve guides?). The engine does not smoke under hard excelleration (so good piston rings?). I’ve replaced the PCV and hose. The old PCV was really cakes up. There was a CEL code for the EGR valve. I’ve cleaned the EGR valve and replaced the EGR solenoid. There was also massive oil consumption. After only 450 miles, there was hardly and oil showing on the dipstick. I’m using 5/30 convention oil. The engine idles pretty good, and has plenty of power. The pressure test showed good compression on all cylinders (130, 120, 132, 129). I really want to make this go away! How to stop the oil smoke? It’s embarrassing. What should I do next?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Nissan Altima that has a hard time starting but runs fine once started. It is very difficult in the winter when the temp is below 25 degrees. Sometimes it take me 5 to 6 tries to get it started. I have had the vehicle checked by two mechanics and recently had the battery replaced. The mechanics said the car looks fine. Could this be a fuel injector problem or moisture in the fuel system?
View 7 RepliesCar is hard to start when sitting about 9 hours or longer to a day without being started up it is hard to crank over, I am at a loss to what is causing it, the car has a new battery, new distributor rotor w/wires and cap, my car is an 1993 Nissan stanza ALTIMA GXE w/automatic seat-belts, the car is fully loaded Except for sun roof or heated seats, I do have 242360+ miles on the car. I kept the car well maintained from Nissan, and they can't find anything wrong with it. is this the case of just old age on the cars behalf? what I do notice is there's a slight drop in voltage reading on battery the night before to the next day, can a starter be my problem??
View 12 RepliesHad a weird experience with my Nissan Altima (2003) in June that has repeated very occasionally since then. Immediately after starting, there is a single loud thunk. It sounds exactly like a bird flying into the rear left window. In fact, the first time I heard it I thought that's what had happened. Since it has repeated -- although very occasionally, as in a handful of times -- I'm concerned that it's a problem that needs to be addressed. The car has about 100K miles on it and is otherwise in very good condition. What the likely issue might be? (I recently moved to a new area and I don't have a trusted mechanic to ask.)
View 4 RepliesI recently started noticing that a creaking sound occasionally (but increasingly) when turning my 2005 Nissan Altima. It seems to happen more after storms, significant temperature changes, and in the morning. It happens when turning in either direction.
It doesn't always happen, and I don't feel any grinding or disturbance in the wheel when turning. I rolled the window down to see if I could hear any more clicking or popping when turning, but I don't really seem to hear it outside of the car. It seems like it's almost emanating from the steering column.
The sound is not a steady popping or clicking sound. It sounds more a slow creak, like you'd think of hearing on a door in an old scary movie. I think I've heard a click here and there, but I can't be certain for sure.
The Guys got it pretty good right here: [URL] .....
I have a 2005 Nissan Altima and when I turn my air conditioning on my car starts rattling and shaking on the passenger side as well has makes some noises. When I turn the air conditioner off the noises and the shakes goes away. Is this something I should go have looked at or is this a problem I may have to wait until the situation gets worse, such as no air conditioning?
View 3 RepliesMy Nissan Altima 2006 without a warning stopped turning over. My mechanic has checked the fuel pump, fuel injectors, fuel filter and even the computer. Still to no avail...
View 9 RepliesMy 97 Nissan pick up, 2.4L I4, 5 speed 182k miles has developed a screeching sound for about 15 to 30 seconds after starting. It sounds like a loose or slipping belt. I have replaced all three belts and the tension is right.
I pulled all the belts again and put them back on one at a time and determined that the belt for the water pump and alternator is the source. I checked all pulleys and components and cannot find anything with abnormal drag or roughness or noise.
I though maybe that I might have put too much tension on the alternator belt and maybe put to much side load on the alternator bearing so I loosened it slightly and that just made the screeching last longer. I also noticed that the duration of the screeching is extended when there is a load on the alternator, such as the blower motor or the headlights.
Once the screeching stops, it does not come back even with sudden changes in rpm or changes in load, i.e. blower motor or headlights, however, every time the compressor kicks on, there is a chirp. Before I replaced all the belts, the compressor belt was slipping on occasion and every time the compressor kicked on, it would screech for a few seconds, but its not AC weather right now.
I pulled off the alternator today and took it up to be tested to see if it would screech on the test set, not a peep and passed all tests. BTW, I am not having any issues with charging or starting, the battery is good. I did notice a wire bundle that runs under the air cleaner has abraded and one wire is bare, I'll address that tomorrow. I don't see any evidence of shorts in the bundle, all the abrasion is on one side and only one wire exposed, and it only touched plastic as far as I can tell.
Also, I cannot visually detect the slipping, the belt and the alternator appear to be moving smoothly, same with water pump, but its hard to tell because everything is spinning so fast. also, it is not bad if you just do a restart after driving, is will only screech for a second or two, but if it cools down, than it back to the 15 to 30 seconds of screeching, and its LOUD.
2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s.
I started my car yesterday and the radio came on as normal. When I turned off the car, it did not shut off as normal. This continued through a couple of stops.
When I got home and turned off the car, the radio was still playing. I disconnected the battery, the radio stopped. I reconnected the battery and now the radio will not turn on but everything else in the car is working fine.
My daughter's 2006 Nissan Altima with 160K miles on it and in generally great shape will not start.Tuesday evening she noticed the a/c wasn’t blowing cold air, then “steam” coming up from window vents. She made it to my son’s place (a few miles) and one of his roommates discovered her radiator was dry. They filled it with water, let the car cool, ran it on idle and all seemed fine. She drove home (20 mi.) and no issues with temp. Wednesday morning the car would not start. She said it started several times then would die.
Wednesday evening I tried to start the car and it would turn but not start. While pumping the gas rapidly I was able to finally get it to start and it ran well. I stopped and started it several times. I then let it sit for about 4 hours and tried to restart it and it would not. It turns, but doesn’t start (no issue with battery or apparently starter). I thought it might be the fuel pump due to the way it started, but not sure how to tell if it is getting fuel?Could it be the water pump due to the overheating? I would think the car would still start if it was, but not sure?
I recently purchased a prev. owned Nissan Altima (2006) 113,000 miles from the Honda dealer. Two months later I took it to the Nissan dealer to have something checked and they told me the car was two & half qts. low on oil. I had only driven it to the store and back; not on the interstate. I allowed them to fix motor mount and replace seals and fill oil. I took it back 1 mo. later; everything ok. Again went back to have it checked. before driving it from PNS to S. Fl. Got the go ahead! Off I went thinking they had fixed the problem, when I noticed the rpm's were between 3 & 4 at 60 mph on interstate.
I kept the needle on 3 , to & from. Upon return, I heard a rattle under the hood, oil lt. came on. Next day, took it to Nissan dealer who said there was 1 qt. oil left in it. They examined the engine thoroughly this time. The verdict: a bad catalytic converter (neglected by prev. owner) engine sucked up micro gaskets...used a term 'combust blow out', and recommended I sell the car or get a rebuilt engine. I signed off on a dozen papers at the honda dealer; 'as is'. they showed me a carfax but I did not receive a copy.
I have a 2006, Nissan, Altima, 3.5se. The vehicle has about 75k miles on it, and is driven about twice a week. I have had no issues until recently. The problem is the vehicle will not start. About three weeks ago I notices one of the bulbs in the headlight and fog lamps had gone out so I replaced them. (I only share this because it is the only thing that changed. Shortly there after I would go out start the car, drive a short distance, park, turn off the car, and come back 15-20 minutes later. When I went to start the car there was no electrical activity .
The battery was completely dead. I had the battery tested, and replaced, thinking this was the problem. Nope still does it. Next I changed all the fuses, thinking a fuse might be going bad, nope issue is still there. I had the new battery tested- it is good, I had the alternator tested 2 different times, it is running and charging the battery. There is nothing left on to drain the battery, as I have turned off the auto door light, unplugged all the phone chargers, and it still does it. When the car won;t start there is no electrical activity. When I go to jump start it it jump starts immediately. It does not cut off while driving. The problem is only when I go to start the vehicle. The alternator comes to mind, but it doesn't cut while the vehicle is idling or driving.
My car sounds like it's dragging something but when I look under it there's nothing there. The sound it makes is comparable to the sound a snow plow makes as its plowing the road. The sound is constant but gets worse when I brake. What could be the cause?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 Cylinder with roughly 100k miles. The car runs great, shifts great, drives smooth. The only issue I have is starting the vehicle. When turning the key the car cranks sometimes longer than normal and sputters a bit before fully starting. I feel somewhat of a jolt like the engine is firing but its not what I call smooth. The other day it cranked longer than normal started for 1/2 a second then died and I had to turn the key again to start. I have already replaced the spark plugs and air filters. A while back we had the fuel filter/pump replaced but I'm not sure what else to do considering that the car runs fine otherwise. I read something about an EGR valve and maybe it's a vacuum hose?...
View 8 RepliesI own a 2006 Nissan Altima with about 90500 miles on it. Recently i took it in for service and to fix a problem where the car was making this metallic sound while driving. The mechanic discovered that the sound was caused by a low engine oil level causing the timing belt tension to lose pressure and make the sound.
The mechanic also found a Nissan Service Recall/Campaign (NTB06-082) related to Engine Oil Consumption where the following occurs: "extremely low engine oil level resulting from higher than normal engine oil consumption due to a manufacturing problem in some engines". NTB06-082 states that the first thing the dealer should do if the recall applies is reprogrammed the ECU followed by doing an engine oil check.
What steps I should follow to get the Nissan Dealership to take a look at this particular issue? I imagine that it's going to be hard convincing them that the NTB06-082 may apply to my vehicle.
My '06 Nissan Altima suddenly started making a very loud rattling noise as soon as I put it into drive and start moving at low speeds. The noise does not go away at high speeds. It sounds like I am dragging the entire undercarriage. When breaking it grinds very loudly. All of this is sudden. Only other issue I had recently was that the motor wouldn't catch when I tried it Saturday, but it finally did after giving it a good amount of fuel. Drove it 300 miles yesterday without a problem. Woke up to a car that sounds an awful lot like a plane.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 Acura RSX with an auto transmission that is having problems starting. The electronics work (ie lights, stereo, auto-locks etc) and the engine starts to crank when the ignition is engaged, but it sputters out and doesn't turn all the way over even with a jump start. The battery tested positive and none of the fuses are blown, how this could be fixed?
View 10 RepliesI wrote about the problem I was having back in Jan 2014 (engine would crank too long if I left the car parked for 30 mins to 4 hrs) ..... well, I finally brought it o a good diagnosis tics place and some of the guys that replied to me we're correct ..... they told me that the crankshaft position sensor (1of 2 sensors) was faulty and replaced it.
View 3 RepliesJust got my new 2015 prius a few days ago. Paired my phone and everything was working fine. Just yesterday bluetooth starting turning off about 30 seconds after I turn on the car. When I got to set up bluetooth the screen says bluetooth off, but can't change it.
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