Nissan - Altima :: 2006 - Grinding Noise When Breaking And Loud Rattling When In Low Gear
Sep 2, 2014
My '06 Nissan Altima suddenly started making a very loud rattling noise as soon as I put it into drive and start moving at low speeds. The noise does not go away at high speeds. It sounds like I am dragging the entire undercarriage. When breaking it grinds very loudly. All of this is sudden. Only other issue I had recently was that the motor wouldn't catch when I tried it Saturday, but it finally did after giving it a good amount of fuel. Drove it 300 miles yesterday without a problem. Woke up to a car that sounds an awful lot like a plane.
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I drive a 1999 Nissan Altima GXE and when i turn the a/c on or turn my steering wheel the car makes a rattling noise towards the belt. I have replaced the belt and i check all the electrical components that are runned on that belt. But i cant figure it out. I think its something to do with my pulley system because my power steering/ac are runned on the same belt along with my alternator and other components. What to check.
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I've got this 02 Nissan Altima 126,000 miles. I did a front brake job on my self, new rotors and ceramic pads. Immediately after the brake job, I started hearing this horrible grinding noise when weight is shifted to the driver side. It happens when I take apply the brakes or make a right turn. When making a right turn I don't need to apply brakes to hear it. I can sometimes hear it faintly when driving normally.
I took it to my mechanic. He first inspected my brake job, disassembled the rotors and pads, applied brake grease, and reassembled everything. The problem continued. He lifted the car, and had me get in, put it in gear, accelerate, then applied brake, no noise. There is no sign of anything rubbing or grinding in the wheel assembly.
After inspecting the tie rods ends, he replaced the inner and outer on both sides. No Luck. He then replace the ceramic brake pads with regular pads which has reduced the noise but it is still there. I asked around and two other mechanics have suggested the wheel bearings, my mechanic believes this is unlikely.
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My son owns a 2008 Nissan Altima with about 110,000 miles. The engine has a ticking noise that is louder and faster when the car accelerates. It is worse when the car is cold. Once it warms up, the noise will get less and even goes away. Valves? Doesn't seem to be tire related and we recently had the belts checked and replaced when needed.
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My car is a 2008 Nissan Altima 3.5L. It has an automatic cvt transmission. Here's the scenario: I turn my car on and shift into drive. I'll drive for maybe 10 feet and I will hear this strange sound that can only be described as a dull knocking followed by a dull scraping sound. The dull scraping sound will last for about 5 seconds. The sound appears to originate from behind the gas pedal, and I'm think I can feel the gas pedal vibrating very slightly as it is happening. The only condition that makes this sound happen is when I shift from park or reverse into drive. If I start my car and put it in drive it happens. If I'm at a red light go to park then drive, it happens. If I turn my car on, go in reverse, then drive, it happens. However it doesn't happen if I just stop and don't change the gear selector. It's been happening since I bought the car at 56k miles, I'm at 69k now. I haven't seen any decrease in performance, the car runs like a champ.
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I've got a 02 Camry with a manual. In 5th gear, cruising on highway, there's a low grinding/ rattling noise. it doesn't do it if you try to accelerate, or if you have no throttle input at all, meaning it only makes the noise when trying to keep one speed, typically around 2000-2500 rpm. If i grab the shifter and apply pressure in any direction, the noise goes away. I've owned the car for 3 years now and its always done it, and hasn't gotten any worse or changed at all. I'm experiencing no performance issues and just chalked this up to gear noise, but recently read someone else was having same issue, and everyone was clamoring on about needing new bearings.
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My right front passenger tire keeps making a loud squealing noise. I've had the brakes and pads changed several times and it keeps making the same noise. I've taken it to the dealer but when they drive it, of course it doesn't make the noise. They checked it and everything seems fine. I took it to another mechanic and they heard the noise as well but can't find any problems. They greased all the gears in the wheel area and it stopped making the noise for a couple of weeks, but then starts right back up again. The car drives perfectly other than that. I'm going to see if I can attach a video file so you can hear the noise. I'm thinking it could be the bearings but everyone that looks at it says they're fine. The noise in the video is much more pronounced now and is a constant sharp squeal.
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I hear a loud Rattling noise from back of 09 Corolla,when I put it in gear- just came out of nowhere...
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Having issues with sunroof. Purchased my 2011 gti last month 3300 miles later sunroof broke like a corrado .....making loud gear grinding noises ....whole assembly wants to bust out of the headliner !
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I recently bought a manual 92 saab, and in the past few days I have been having trouble with the 5th gear. The fluids are all fine and I have not put any real strain on the trans since I've had the car. It worked fine when I bought it but now when I try to put it in 5th there is a loud grinding noise as I let the clutch out. The shifter then pops back into neutral. I tried holding the shifter in 5th to see if that would work, and as I release the clutch the grinding noise gets louder and the gear does not engage at all. I am really hoping it is just a worn down part, and doesn't need a complete transmission overhaul.
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1998 Nissan Altima with 150,000. It has been well maintained and had many of the major repairs completed. There is still something wrong that annoys the heck out of me. When in "P"ark, the exhaust makes a pop, like there is too much or too little exhaust. It enough to be audible when I am in the front seat. The tach drops maybe 50-100 RPM when it pops. It happens maybe once every 30-60 seconds.
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I have a problem with my reverse in a 5 speed 105 hp Tdi. It jumps out of place when i try to move the car, makes a loud grinding noise and pops back in, I'm guessing the selectors are worn or maybe the teeth are too. My question is, how hard is it to replace the selectors (if it is the selectors that are worn of course), what is the cost of getting it done in the shop and most important does this sign mean I will have the same problems with the rest of the gear in nearby future?
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I have an 06 2.0T passat sedan. After a year, I started getting this loud rattling noise from one of the panels in the back everytime I hit a bump in the road. At first, I thought it was the rear tray behind the seats. But after sitting in the back with my son while my wife drove, I realized that it's a panel on the ceiling. It's this long thin panel that runs along the width of the rear ceiling, right along the top of the rear windshield. I'm thinking I could just remove the panel and put some sound proofing material or adhesive foam pads or something.
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So, my family owns a 2006 Nissan Altima, and it's developed a strange problem recently. It would start fine when cold, but then if I park it and come back 20 minutes later, it won't start again. Apparently this is a thing that happens with Altimas. Now for a while, it was starting after two or three tries, but now it just simply isn't turning over. When I watch it under the hood, it shudders some, and then there's a puff of warm air/exhaust, i don't know. I've read it might be the cam shaft sensor, but after replacing that the problem hasn't gone away, and a few people have said it might be the fuel pump, but I replaced that as well and it's still not starting up. I'm thinking i might try to replace the crankshaft sensor next but I thought I would ask here for advice and opinions just in case. This isnt the first time this has happened with this car, apparently - this happened once before, and the camshaft sensor being replaced fixed it.
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2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s.
I started my car yesterday and the radio came on as normal. When I turned off the car, it did not shut off as normal. This continued through a couple of stops.
When I got home and turned off the car, the radio was still playing. I disconnected the battery, the radio stopped. I reconnected the battery and now the radio will not turn on but everything else in the car is working fine.
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My daughter's 2006 Nissan Altima with 160K miles on it and in generally great shape will not start.Tuesday evening she noticed the a/c wasn’t blowing cold air, then “steam” coming up from window vents. She made it to my son’s place (a few miles) and one of his roommates discovered her radiator was dry. They filled it with water, let the car cool, ran it on idle and all seemed fine. She drove home (20 mi.) and no issues with temp. Wednesday morning the car would not start. She said it started several times then would die.
Wednesday evening I tried to start the car and it would turn but not start. While pumping the gas rapidly I was able to finally get it to start and it ran well. I stopped and started it several times. I then let it sit for about 4 hours and tried to restart it and it would not. It turns, but doesn’t start (no issue with battery or apparently starter). I thought it might be the fuel pump due to the way it started, but not sure how to tell if it is getting fuel?Could it be the water pump due to the overheating? I would think the car would still start if it was, but not sure?
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I recently purchased a prev. owned Nissan Altima (2006) 113,000 miles from the Honda dealer. Two months later I took it to the Nissan dealer to have something checked and they told me the car was two & half qts. low on oil. I had only driven it to the store and back; not on the interstate. I allowed them to fix motor mount and replace seals and fill oil. I took it back 1 mo. later; everything ok. Again went back to have it checked. before driving it from PNS to S. Fl. Got the go ahead! Off I went thinking they had fixed the problem, when I noticed the rpm's were between 3 & 4 at 60 mph on interstate.
I kept the needle on 3 , to & from. Upon return, I heard a rattle under the hood, oil lt. came on. Next day, took it to Nissan dealer who said there was 1 qt. oil left in it. They examined the engine thoroughly this time. The verdict: a bad catalytic converter (neglected by prev. owner) engine sucked up micro gaskets...used a term 'combust blow out', and recommended I sell the car or get a rebuilt engine. I signed off on a dozen papers at the honda dealer; 'as is'. they showed me a carfax but I did not receive a copy.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai sonata, 2.4, 5 speed manual, gls, when I press down on clutch whether from a stop or when shifting, I get a loud grinding noise and the radio goes dead at same time!, I know it is the starter attempting to "engage", at least that's what I believe it to be, it also "'starts "from, the "on " position when I press on clutch.
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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I have a 2006, Nissan, Altima, 3.5se. The vehicle has about 75k miles on it, and is driven about twice a week. I have had no issues until recently. The problem is the vehicle will not start. About three weeks ago I notices one of the bulbs in the headlight and fog lamps had gone out so I replaced them. (I only share this because it is the only thing that changed. Shortly there after I would go out start the car, drive a short distance, park, turn off the car, and come back 15-20 minutes later. When I went to start the car there was no electrical activity .
The battery was completely dead. I had the battery tested, and replaced, thinking this was the problem. Nope still does it. Next I changed all the fuses, thinking a fuse might be going bad, nope issue is still there. I had the new battery tested- it is good, I had the alternator tested 2 different times, it is running and charging the battery. There is nothing left on to drain the battery, as I have turned off the auto door light, unplugged all the phone chargers, and it still does it. When the car won;t start there is no electrical activity. When I go to jump start it it jump starts immediately. It does not cut off while driving. The problem is only when I go to start the vehicle. The alternator comes to mind, but it doesn't cut while the vehicle is idling or driving.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Altima with 142K miles. It is not starting right away. It coughs/sputters anywhere from 3 seconds to 10 seconds before turning over and starting. What the issue is?
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