Nissan - Altima :: 2003 Loses Power / Odd Error Code Result
Aug 13, 2015
My 2003 Altima (generally trouble-free!) recently lost power ... it would just putter along at 5mph. I parked, and the engine revved up fine. Waited a bit, put in drive and and same issue. I punched the accelerator, it sort of backfired and then ran OK. Next day, I called the local auto center who thought it could be catalytic converter blockage. They ran test for error codes and one stated check engine light was out of order and that instrument cluster should be replaced. They admitted it was bizarre, so I declined the repair and have driven just a handful of miles in the few days since. Today, power lost again, same 5 mph-only issue. I park, turn off engine and wait a bit. Then it wouldn't turn over... some blinking lights in the instrument cluster. So... it's been towed and tomorrow the same auto center will investigate.
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I'm having two slightly strange issues with a 2007 Nissan Altima 2.5S...
First, after driving for about 30 minutes on warmer/hot days (above 85 degrees) the temperature gauge starts rising and then the A/C starts blowing out hot air for a while. After a minute or two the temp gauge goes back down and the A/C goes cool again. The only reason I bring it up is this something new that has never happened before, even in the hottest summers and it only happens when it over 85/87 degrees.
Second issue is a bit stranger... After driving for 20-30 minutes the car will start "jumping". It feels like the engine loses a cylinder and then it kicks back on. It almost feels like the car is stuttering, if that makes any sense. This happens intermittently and only after driving for a slightly extended period of time. It also seems to be independent of the speed at which I am traveling. I took it to the Nissan dealer and they said they couldn't reproduce the problem and couldn't really look into anything because the Check Engine light was not on, so they had no code to go by, or something to that effect.
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This code keeps coming up on my OBD reader, hat to look for to repair this code. I read on this other forum that it could be vacuum leaks etc.,
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My 1999 Nissan Altima. Has a check engine light code P 1447. Car stalled needed a jump to get started. Left it by the mechanic running and stalled again what could it be?
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My wife's 2003 Altima has been stalling. The MIL came on P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit. I did a little research and it seems that it is pretty common for that sensor to go bad, so I bought a new one. The problem is I can't get the wires off the old one. It is in such a ridiculous place. There is no line of sight anywhere. It has to be done completely by feel. Supposedly, I should be able to push the button until it clicks and then remove the connector. When I push the button, it definitely clicks - but it doesn't stay clicked. It clicks right back out before I can pull on the connector. How can I keep that button clicked in when I can't see anything and I can just barely get one hand down in there?
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
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I own a 2003 Nissan Altima and I am having trouble switching off my radio since a couple of months. All the other features work except for the power button. As a result, the radio is always on.
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My 2003 Nissan Altima recently started giving me trouble where I will drive for at least 20 minutes, stop to run an errand, come back, and the engine won't turn over. The first time this happened my check engine light came on. I brought it into the shop and had the cam sensors replaced. I'm still having the same problem. The engine cranks and the battery checked out okay. Car has 93,000 miles on it. I can usually get it to start after 5-10 minutes by cranking and pushing the gas to the floor. Could this be a fuel issue?
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I have a 2006 Nissan Murano with 122,000 miles on it. It's been a good car, but recently it has had a few episodes of losing power. Here's an example:
I had been driving the car here and there all day, and in the afternoon I swung by my mom's house to pick her up. When she got in the car (I had just been idling while waiting), I went to make a U-turn and the car outright died. I started it right back up and was able to drive to the end of the block before it lost power. It didn't die this time -- the engine was still on -- but all my electrical components went out -- radio, dashboard lights, AC -- and I couldn't get it to go more than 20 mph. That was flooring it. It wasn't giving me a high-pitched whine, just a low hum like it was trying really hard to go but couldn't. I turned it around and barely made it back up the hill to my mom's to park it. It just had no get-up-and-go. An hour or so later my dad came home and checked it out and of course it was fine. Started right up, drove fine.
This has happened twice since, both times I was driving on the freeway when I felt the loss of get-up-and-go and saw the electrical components go out. These times it only lasted maybe 10 seconds, after which it just came back to life in the middle of driving and drove fine the rest of the day.
It makes me think there must be some sort of loose connection somewhere? I'm frustrated by the issue because it's not repeatable. So when I took it to my mechanic, they said they couldn't find anything wrong. They hooked it up to a code reader and nothing came up, and they drove it around and around and it was fine. The idea that it could maybe strand me on the side of the road (I drive my kids around all day) scares me, so I've swapped cars with my husband for the time being. But I want my Murano back!
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I have a Nissan '04 Altima. Last winter, in temps near zero, my power steering seemed to go out. It worked fine when it got a little warmer. Figured maybe a stuck valve or something on the pump. Works fine sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. Asked my mechanic to check this out when I went in for my last oil change. Not sure they checked anything (it was working when I brought it in) they recommended a fluid flush. Did the fluid flush, it continued to work for a few days, then stopped working again. What could cause this so I can have them check specific components. And so I don't spend money on things that I don't need to.
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I THINK my wheel bearings are going on my 2003 Nissan Altima. It has about 95k miles on it and it has been making what I would call a mid-toned rumble or a low pitched rattle (imagine shaking a metal box full of rocks). The noise is coming from the front driver's side. It's more subdued when driving in really wet weather. I am more aware of it when I drive at slower speeds. It doesn't seem to change when I turn the wheel either way, and it definitely gets more pronounced when I go over a bump or a rough patch. I recently had my front rotors and pads replaced, naiively hoped that might fix it - wishful thinking - and stupidly forgot to ask my mechanic about it then. I need to call to schedule a repair, but I would like to be prepared and to know if anything else might make this noise. (and I don't want to jack it up and shake the wheel or anything).Approximately how much does it cost to have this fixed?
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Had a weird experience with my Nissan Altima (2003) in June that has repeated very occasionally since then. Immediately after starting, there is a single loud thunk. It sounds exactly like a bird flying into the rear left window. In fact, the first time I heard it I thought that's what had happened. Since it has repeated -- although very occasionally, as in a handful of times -- I'm concerned that it's a problem that needs to be addressed. The car has about 100K miles on it and is otherwise in very good condition. What the likely issue might be? (I recently moved to a new area and I don't have a trusted mechanic to ask.)
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I have a 1996 Nissan Sentra GXE 1.6L automatic. It fails to start intermittently. It does not matter if the engine is hot or cold. It does not turn over and it seems the whole car has lost power (no engine warning lights, no power locks, etc).
I have taken the battery to be tested and it comes out "good." Once I put the battery back in, the car starts and power is restored to the entire car. The starter (1-month-old) and alternator (1-year-old) test out good also. I changed the inhibitor relay, but the problem occurred again 2 weeks later.
I also noticed one time when I attempted to jump the car with the negative jumper cable attached to the engine block of the dead car or to the negative battery terminal of the dead car, the car would just click (as though attempting to turn over). However, when I connected the jumper cable to the exposed part of the dead car's negative battery cable (right next to the battery cable connector), it starts.
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My wife has a problem with the check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer has replaced the fuel pump twice (which they say is the problem) but it keeps happening.
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My right front passenger tire keeps making a loud squealing noise. I've had the brakes and pads changed several times and it keeps making the same noise. I've taken it to the dealer but when they drive it, of course it doesn't make the noise. They checked it and everything seems fine. I took it to another mechanic and they heard the noise as well but can't find any problems. They greased all the gears in the wheel area and it stopped making the noise for a couple of weeks, but then starts right back up again. The car drives perfectly other than that. I'm going to see if I can attach a video file so you can hear the noise. I'm thinking it could be the bearings but everyone that looks at it says they're fine. The noise in the video is much more pronounced now and is a constant sharp squeal.
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My wife's 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5S threw a Check Engine Light. Runs fine, but we took it to Meineke for a free diagnostic scan. Problem: they said they couldn't get the diagnostic unit to talk to the car because the diagnostic interface pinout wasn't getting power through the #16 pin. They checked the fuses, but didn't go any further for diagnoses for why it would be doing that.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier that a had a buddy perform a tune up. Now my buddy has disappeared and my truck miss fires on start up and occasionally looses power when you drive it. I also noticed that It consumes more gas. I went from 305 miles on a 17 gallon tank to 230 miles.
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My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
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I went and got my truck smog and it failed because of this code. I then changed the sensor cleaned out the tube and I still can't figure out how to get rid of the error code?
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Well I thought my truck was 100%, and I was going to installed a Chip. I decided to get my Forscan up and running to check and make sure.
The Buzz test Passed with no problems.
The cylinder contribution did not pass. I got error code P1464, which Forscan said that #8 failed. FYI, I turned the A/C on and the test failed. I ran it again with the A/C off and it failed again. I might have the wrong code
I then went to where you could select the gauges to view(PID's). And I saw where you could select all the cylinders injectors individually. I forgot what it was called, but all injectors were reading close to 0.0% at idle except for #8 it was reading 5.55% to 5.88%.
I am hoping this is good news, since I rather the injector be bad then a piston ring or valve. I just got the Forscan and was wondering what other test or other things I could check to narrow the problem down before removing the Valve covers. The truck runs great and there is no miss and it turns over smooth. No blowbye, just runs great. It is a 2000 F-350 dually with just over 202,000 miles
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I'm trying to get my truck smogged and having problems w/po475. A friend of a friend said it was the DFPE sensor. So I bought one but can't find where it goes. On YouTube it is only listed for F150's and gas motors it seems. I have a 00 f350SD 7.3, do I even have a DFPE and if so where is it located.
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