Nissan - Altima :: 2000 - AC Won't Blow Cold Air
Jun 2, 2012
My 2002 Altima A/C won't blow cold air. Took it to my mechanic who says all switches, fuses, relays, compressor clutch are OK and system has pressure, but the compressor is shot. In order to get a replacement that's guaranteed I have to get a receiver/dryer with it. Also says not to get a compressor from the salvage yard. I'm wondering if there are any other testing procedures that could be used to be certain it is the compressor....
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I recently purchased a prev. owned Nissan Altima (2006) 113,000 miles from the Honda dealer. Two months later I took it to the Nissan dealer to have something checked and they told me the car was two & half qts. low on oil. I had only driven it to the store and back; not on the interstate. I allowed them to fix motor mount and replace seals and fill oil. I took it back 1 mo. later; everything ok. Again went back to have it checked. before driving it from PNS to S. Fl. Got the go ahead! Off I went thinking they had fixed the problem, when I noticed the rpm's were between 3 & 4 at 60 mph on interstate.
I kept the needle on 3 , to & from. Upon return, I heard a rattle under the hood, oil lt. came on. Next day, took it to Nissan dealer who said there was 1 qt. oil left in it. They examined the engine thoroughly this time. The verdict: a bad catalytic converter (neglected by prev. owner) engine sucked up micro gaskets...used a term 'combust blow out', and recommended I sell the car or get a rebuilt engine. I signed off on a dozen papers at the honda dealer; 'as is'. they showed me a carfax but I did not receive a copy.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Altima that works great except when the weather becomes cold in the winter. The brakes don't work when I turn on my car. The brake lever will not press down at all and once or twice (before I realized this was happening) my car went sliding down the road without an ability to stop. I can't tell if they start working after the car warms up or after I've pumped them for a while because they'll start working again at random times. Sometimes it takes a few seconds and sometimes it takes a few minutes.
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I own a 2000 nissan altima GXE, and recently i have had a lot of problems, it would stall out randomly and OBD2 scanners said knock senor, EGR, and thermostat. I changed the knock sensor, cleaned the EGR valve and the EGR valve gasket, and haven't touched the thermostat. I changed other things like the crankshaft sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump is fine, alternator, valve cover gasket, and spark plugs. It started stalling all the time after I changed the rotor in the distributor cap, it stalled before but less than after we changed the rotor.
The car would stall randomly when the RPMs would go below 1000. I took it to my friends dad who is a mechanic and he was the one who changed the PCV valve and the EGR valve gasket and cleaned the EGR, he also cleaned the intake and changed the knock sensor. The SES light finally went away but the car would stutter when i would be stopped with the A/C on and i go to press on the gas. once the RPM hit 1000 it would stutter. It didn't stall until a week and a half later. I was told it could MAYBE be throttle position sensor, computer, thermostat, oil loss from valve cover gasket, and idle speed control.
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I have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
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Started my car the other morning to go to work (4:45 AM) with no problem and drove about one mile. Not wet weather. The engine dies, all lights that come on at start up (engine, alt, etc.) come on and I glided to the side. Tried starting it again - engine tried but did not catch. Tried a few more times and called AAA.
Towed it to a mechanic. Waited about 2 hours for them to open. They were able to drive it the rest of the day with no problem but they had the same thing happen the next morning (yesterday). Then it didn't happen to them today. One more try tomorrow and I hope they can identify it then.
2000 Nissan Altima w/150K miles, gas was less than 1/4 mark, no system lights on.
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Instrument panel on Altima shuts down or freezes up erratically? There is no conditions I have found when this happens consistently. Typically after leaving the car overnight in the drive next time around everything works properly. I have checked fuses in the car and under the hood. What causes this?
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Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
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The A/C went out on my 2000 Nissan Quest. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find the problem and recommended not replacing the it because of the age and value of the car. However, the defroster doesn't work so it's almost impossible to see when it rains because the windshield has so much moisture on the inside. There is nothing blowing on it. Opening the windows did not work.
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Nissan altima gle (2000) and for the past 3 weeks it has not gone over 55. The car was running ok before but was idling rough. A mechanic replaced the intake manifold gasket, the MAF sensor and the fan sensor. I decided to change my spark plugs when I noticed the idling was getting worse. The spark plugs had oil on them and now a month after the new ones are burned (like ashy tip, black thread) and dripping oil again. I think is the oil not letting my car accelerate in the highway. I considered changing the valve gasket, cables and cap for the spark plug. A mechanic told me not to bother because the motor is a lost. Is he right?
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I own a 2000 Nissan Frontier. Just recently while I was driving (in 15 degree icy conditions!) my heater, which was blowing on setting 2, stopping blowing air. I tried messing around with it, and found out that it won't blow any air on settings 1,2,or 3. It does, however, blow air on setting 4, but that is accompanied by a slight strange noise/vibrating of the dash. The coolant level looks fine and I haven't spotted any leaks anywhere that might indicate that it's the heating core. I thought it might be the resistor.
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I took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
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I have a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo with 230,000 miles. The A/C is cold when first turned on after start up, warm or cold engine. After about 5-8 minutes running on a sunny day, driving or at a stop, it starts blowing warm. If I shut the A/C off and leave it off for 30-45 seconds, it will blow cold again. On an overcast day it will blow cold for 15 minutes or more.
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2000 F250 7.3 diesel... It began doing this last summer. It will blow cold and freeze you out then it gets hot and burns you up. If you step on the gas pedal for a bit, it will go cold again. We have changed high & low pressure switches and added more freon. What else do we need to look into?
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My 2000 Echo's A/C didn't blow cold. It turns out the low side pressure was fine, but the compressor wasn't turning. I read somewhere that the A/C compressor's clutch eventually wears down so it doesn't grab the pulley anymore, and that sometimes removing spacers can move the clutch enough to allow it to grab. I took off the bolt on the compressor pulley and the spacer fell off. I put the bolt back on, and now I'm COOL!
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon. The A/C will only come on if the switch is turned to full blast, but even then it makes a really loud grinding noise and does not blow very cold air. Is this a compressor issue or blower motor? I am assuming the switch is bad since it only works on highest speed, but could it be something else causing this also?
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I have a 2000 yukon and the climate control stopped working. The defrost works just fine but the heater/ac stopped working nothing blows out from my vents when ac/heater setting is on. I checked all fuses and wires and everything is ok and connected. I just replaced my cd player and the next day climate control stopped working. I went back and checked the wireing of the cd player as well, everything is fine. Would i need a new climate control, or senser or is there a fuse on the heater itself.
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I'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
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My 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
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i have a 2003 nissan altima with 99288 miles on it. i just got it changed yesterday and one of the tech's showed me and said there was condensation on the oil cap and the oil was dark. he recommened an oil system cleaner. is this accurate or is there something more i should worry about? he also said i was 1/2 qt low. last time i got my oil changed at the same place he said my oil was 2qts low and recommened a semi sythenic blend to flush things out, which i did do. i usually get my oil changed about every 4000 miles or so, i try for 3000 but not too successful. i also drive 1/2 hr to and from work every day at a min.
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As I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
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