Nissan - Altima :: 1998 - Oxygen Sensor Goes Bad As Soon As It Is Repaired
Aug 10, 2011
I have a 1998 Nissan Altima (manual transmission). The "Check engine light" came on. The oxygen sensor went bad again. I have had this repaired twice (to pass inspection). Every time I get it repaired, I take the car back to the inspection station and then it passes inspection. But in a few weeks to a couple of months, the "check engine light" comes on again. Every time I get this repaired its almost $400-$500 expense. I should probably take the car to another mechanic this time.
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
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My wife's 1998 Nissan Altima , 100 K miles, starts to shake and stall in the summer when the A/C is on and she stops for a light.
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last fall, the check engine light came on- Autozone states the knock sensor is bad. At the same time, odometer/cruise would work off and on. Now as months have gone by, the odometer RARELY works. Could all the electrical issues be connected? Is odometer controlled by Speed Sensor on the transmission or somewhere else?
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1998 Nissan Altima with 150,000. It has been well maintained and had many of the major repairs completed. There is still something wrong that annoys the heck out of me. When in "P"ark, the exhaust makes a pop, like there is too much or too little exhaust. It enough to be audible when I am in the front seat. The tach drops maybe 50-100 RPM when it pops. It happens maybe once every 30-60 seconds.
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My wife's 2003 Altima has been stalling. The MIL came on P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit. I did a little research and it seems that it is pretty common for that sensor to go bad, so I bought a new one. The problem is I can't get the wires off the old one. It is in such a ridiculous place. There is no line of sight anywhere. It has to be done completely by feel. Supposedly, I should be able to push the button until it clicks and then remove the connector. When I push the button, it definitely clicks - but it doesn't stay clicked. It clicks right back out before I can pull on the connector. How can I keep that button clicked in when I can't see anything and I can just barely get one hand down in there?
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My 1998 Nissan Altima has the following three problems that I want to fix:
1) Both sun visors are detached. How can I reattach them?
2) The front passenger side window power button works only occasionally. Sometimes I will pull the window down but can't pull it back up. So the driver has to do it. Is it possible to fix this on my own. If so, how?
3) Finally, the radio volume knob/button is not responsive enough. That is, I will spin it and it makes the clicking sound but the volume doesn't increase/decrease unless I turn the knob very carefully. How to fix?
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My 1998 Nissan Altima 4 cyl (auto) shut down on highway, would not restart, and had to be towed. My mechanic told me it is the computer. After seeing prices for new ECMs from a Nissan parts site, I am wondering if something else needs to be replaced. I don't want to put that kind of money into a 14 year old car with other problems and mileage of 155,000. Could whatever caused the computer to stop working be an additional cost. The mechanic provided minimal information and is actually recommending I get rid of the car due to a slow oil leak and control arm bushings that eventually need to be replaced. However, it just passed inspection and a few months ago, I replaced 4 tires and brake rotors.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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I need to replace the first oxygen sensor, which is located on exhaust manifold behind the engine. But how to reach it? I've tried both from below and from above with the engine rotated as much forward as was possible but no luck. The only way I see possible to make enough space is to remove the ignition coil, but I don't want to take that step without knowing it is right thing to do.
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We took our 2008 Prius in for a check engine light. The dealership said oxygen sensor was faulty. Changed that and had them change the serpentine belt while there due to cracks in the belt. My wife filled up the car the next day ( it took 13 gallons) but gas gauge was not registering a full tank. We drove 67 miles and I decided to pull into a gas station and see how much it would take since the gas gauge was not working properly. It took over 7 gallons.
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How do you replace an oxygen sensor in a 1997 Cadillac Deville? Where is it located?
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I have a hyndai Sonata v6. It is 2006 model and has done 86K miles. It recently failed the inspection and I was told it has faulty oxygen sensors. I have replaced the sensors. But now I am advised by the mechanic that I need to drive abut 200 miles before I can take it for the inspection again because it takes some time for the sensors to get adjusted. Is that true ?
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Had my catalytic converter stolen, along with the trailing O2 sensor. Muffler shop replaced the converter but did not have the correct sensor so had to order it. My understanding is that the trailing sensor is used to assess the efficiency of the converter. I have the leading O2 sensor installed and the car seems to run fine. Driving a 2005 Honda Element 5 speed. Question: am I running the risk of damaging the engine while driving it without the trailing sensor?
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how do you reset o2sensor light on 1992 daihatsu rocky se
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I have just replaced an almost new oxygen sensor on my 2000 Grand Am. After about 40 miles, the check engine light came back on again. I have not had a chance to check it, but I assume it is the oxygen sensor again. What am I missing?
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I have a 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0 with 121,000 miles. I removed the front oxygen sensor today to replace an exhaust pipe, and I noticed that the tip has a red/pinkish color on one side only. What this would indicate?
The only thing I could find online is that a pink tip indicates lead in the fuel. This is impossible, since the only gas station I frequent is a Conoco which is always very busy. Plus, I haven't noticed any performance issues from bad gas, and not to mention the fact that leaded fuel has been completely phased out for 15 years. What's weirder is that the sensor tip is only pink on one side - I'm guessing it's the side that's facing the exhaust manifold.
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I thought this strange occurrence I am about to describe was maybe happening because of a faulty air-fuel oxygen sensor, that I knew was bad do to a code test that was done, when my check engine light came on. However, after changing the air-fuel oxygen sensor, doing a reset on my check engine light over the weekend, this same occurrence is happening, to spite the check engine light remaining off. Here is what is happening.
When I start and drive it to normal driving temperature then put the car in "Park" with nothing turned on, the car will shake the idle speed will move up and down until it will eventually kill.
Special Note: It does not always have a idle drop and kill the engine every time. If I turn the A/C on in "Park" it idles up higher and does not ever kill. Could it be a bad Idle Air Control Motor?
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I recently bought my new (For me) R32, the first owner of the car remove the 2 catalyst from the car and now I have the check engine light on. When my friend put the vagcom on the car it shows an oxygen sensor fault. What can I do to fix this? can I just buy a MagnaFlow exhaust?
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