1998 Nissan Altima with 150,000. It has been well maintained and had many of the major repairs completed. There is still something wrong that annoys the heck out of me. When in "P"ark, the exhaust makes a pop, like there is too much or too little exhaust. It enough to be audible when I am in the front seat. The tach drops maybe 50-100 RPM when it pops. It happens maybe once every 30-60 seconds.
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 1998 Nissan Altima , 100 K miles, starts to shake and stall in the summer when the A/C is on and she stops for a light.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 Nissan Altima (manual transmission). The "Check engine light" came on. The oxygen sensor went bad again. I have had this repaired twice (to pass inspection). Every time I get it repaired, I take the car back to the inspection station and then it passes inspection. But in a few weeks to a couple of months, the "check engine light" comes on again. Every time I get this repaired its almost $400-$500 expense. I should probably take the car to another mechanic this time.
View 1 RepliesMy 1998 Nissan Altima has the following three problems that I want to fix:
1) Both sun visors are detached. How can I reattach them?
2) The front passenger side window power button works only occasionally. Sometimes I will pull the window down but can't pull it back up. So the driver has to do it. Is it possible to fix this on my own. If so, how?
3) Finally, the radio volume knob/button is not responsive enough. That is, I will spin it and it makes the clicking sound but the volume doesn't increase/decrease unless I turn the knob very carefully. How to fix?
My 1998 Nissan Altima 4 cyl (auto) shut down on highway, would not restart, and had to be towed. My mechanic told me it is the computer. After seeing prices for new ECMs from a Nissan parts site, I am wondering if something else needs to be replaced. I don't want to put that kind of money into a 14 year old car with other problems and mileage of 155,000. Could whatever caused the computer to stop working be an additional cost. The mechanic provided minimal information and is actually recommending I get rid of the car due to a slow oil leak and control arm bushings that eventually need to be replaced. However, it just passed inspection and a few months ago, I replaced 4 tires and brake rotors.
View 11 RepliesMy '06 Nissan Altima suddenly started making a very loud rattling noise as soon as I put it into drive and start moving at low speeds. The noise does not go away at high speeds. It sounds like I am dragging the entire undercarriage. When breaking it grinds very loudly. All of this is sudden. Only other issue I had recently was that the motor wouldn't catch when I tried it Saturday, but it finally did after giving it a good amount of fuel. Drove it 300 miles yesterday without a problem. Woke up to a car that sounds an awful lot like a plane.
View 9 Replies1998 Passat 1.8T Sedan, Manual, 118k miles, new head at ~ 87k due to broken timing belt. (Changed oil approximately 1.5-2k miles ago, no loss of oil evident). No noticeable loss of power. No MIL and no DTCs in storage.
But there does seem to be a bit of exhaust (puff....puff.....puff...) that seems to be coming from under the turbo side of the engine, but it is hard to tell.
Recently - over the last couple of weeks - noticed at start-up in morning, significant amounts of blue smoke from exhaust - eventually subsides to nothing after a couple of minutes. BUT, it only seems to appear when the car is angled with its nose slightly up in the driveway and not with its nose down. Lack of it occurring with its nose down was only tried twice; I may need to check it again.
After reading many posts, I thought it might be:
1) Oil overfill at last change - I noticed that my oil was less than 1/16" above the top bend. I doubted that would be the problem, but I siphoned off the small bit and it is within or just below the bend now (hard to read). It might be the oil since I used the Valvoline full synthetic MaxLife that is VW approved for the first time, but I find that hard to believe since I have been using synthetic for a couple of years now.
2) Oil getting into the combustion chamber via oil in the turbo system. Checked the low spot in the hose just before the throttle body. Seemed virtually dry; that's not the problem.
3) I guess it could still be oil gathering some place due to the failure of the turbo, but power seems quite normal.
4) Problem potentially with the PCV (actually called the breather and bleeder valves) and/or vacuum system being plugged up. After reading all of the posts regarding that I am starting to think (HOPE) that is it and not the turbo. While I do understand that flapper valves that are stuck would create greater pressure which could result in oil being forced into the chamber past the valve seats, I am not sure why the angle of the car while parked would matter since the higher pressure would only be occurring while driving; and the blue smoke goes away after driving and doesn't appear until next morning. But perhaps I am missing something.
Particularly which valves I should check/clean if I am seeing this smoking exhaust at start-up, but only when the car is parked with the nose up?
5) Sticky valves at the back-side (cabin-side of the engine)?
i have a 2003 nissan altima with 99288 miles on it. i just got it changed yesterday and one of the tech's showed me and said there was condensation on the oil cap and the oil was dark. he recommened an oil system cleaner. is this accurate or is there something more i should worry about? he also said i was 1/2 qt low. last time i got my oil changed at the same place he said my oil was 2qts low and recommened a semi sythenic blend to flush things out, which i did do. i usually get my oil changed about every 4000 miles or so, i try for 3000 but not too successful. i also drive 1/2 hr to and from work every day at a min.
View 11 RepliesAs I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
So, my family owns a 2006 Nissan Altima, and it's developed a strange problem recently. It would start fine when cold, but then if I park it and come back 20 minutes later, it won't start again. Apparently this is a thing that happens with Altimas. Now for a while, it was starting after two or three tries, but now it just simply isn't turning over. When I watch it under the hood, it shudders some, and then there's a puff of warm air/exhaust, i don't know. I've read it might be the cam shaft sensor, but after replacing that the problem hasn't gone away, and a few people have said it might be the fuel pump, but I replaced that as well and it's still not starting up. I'm thinking i might try to replace the crankshaft sensor next but I thought I would ask here for advice and opinions just in case. This isnt the first time this has happened with this car, apparently - this happened once before, and the camshaft sensor being replaced fixed it.
View 15 RepliesI have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
on 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4-liter engine do you have to take off the valve cover to clean out EGR ports.
View 1 Replies2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
View 1 RepliesMy wife has a 2001 Nissan Altima GXE with 89,000 miles. The car seems to run hot with the temp gauge reaching the "H" but never passes it, andwhen air conditioner is on it blows hot air; Then the car cools down it the air cools again, and this seems to happen all of the time.
Now, it's been happening for at Least 3 months, during this time it has had a tune up, the radiator flushed & hoses, thermostat replaced & lastly the ..... Sensor has been replaced & still the same thing happens the car temp runs hot cold up then down. We are at a loss here.
I have a 2001 Nissan Altima. I seem to be having a fan problem. I started noticing that about 2 seconds after I turned the car off, the fans would come back on and run for ~25-30 seconds. I brought it in and my mechanic was thinking maybe a defective thermostat, so we replaced that. It still keeps happening, but now I've realized that the fans come back on anytime the car is turned off when the fans are running. If the fans are not running, they won't come back on. I've been trying to pay more attention to what is going on and when I first turn on the car, no fans are on (at least not the high fan, not sure if there are more than 1) After driving around town, the fans will turn on.
Normally, I believe the fan should then turn off once the coolant temp gets below a certain level. I let the car sit idling in the driveway for 15 min and the fans never turned off. I took it back to mechanic and repeated the idling for 15 min, fans never turned off. He checked the coolant temp with some sort of sensor and the temps were reading between 166-170 depending on where he aimed his device, so he said the fans should be turning off and it doesn't seem like the car is overheating.If he unplugged the temperature sensor, the gauge would go all the way to cold, but nothing changed for the fans, so he didn't think that was the problem.He took the fan relays along the edge of the car and swapped them around and nothing changed, so didn't think it was a relay problem. He removed some sensor on the passenger side on the back part of the engine and the fans got really loud and really fast. When he replace that, the fans would go back to normal until the engine temp got hot enough to turn them on and then they wouldn't go off again. He's thinking that sensor might be the problem, but isn't 100% sure. I think he said this was the cooling fan sensor or switch.
On a side note that may or may not be related. About 5 years ago the water pump broke. It started having the fans on all the time (even from a cold start), that turned out to be a faulty knock sensor. There was a knock sensor code and he replaced the knock sensor and then the fans went back to normal cycling. I didn't have any problems until early last fall, when I started noticing my current problems. I didn't worry about it until now, because as it got colder outside, it wasn't an issue. So outside temperature definitely effects it.
There are no codes this time.
2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s.
I started my car yesterday and the radio came on as normal. When I turned off the car, it did not shut off as normal. This continued through a couple of stops.
When I got home and turned off the car, the radio was still playing. I disconnected the battery, the radio stopped. I reconnected the battery and now the radio will not turn on but everything else in the car is working fine.
My daughter's 2006 Nissan Altima with 160K miles on it and in generally great shape will not start.Tuesday evening she noticed the a/c wasn’t blowing cold air, then “steam” coming up from window vents. She made it to my son’s place (a few miles) and one of his roommates discovered her radiator was dry. They filled it with water, let the car cool, ran it on idle and all seemed fine. She drove home (20 mi.) and no issues with temp. Wednesday morning the car would not start. She said it started several times then would die.
Wednesday evening I tried to start the car and it would turn but not start. While pumping the gas rapidly I was able to finally get it to start and it ran well. I stopped and started it several times. I then let it sit for about 4 hours and tried to restart it and it would not. It turns, but doesn’t start (no issue with battery or apparently starter). I thought it might be the fuel pump due to the way it started, but not sure how to tell if it is getting fuel?Could it be the water pump due to the overheating? I would think the car would still start if it was, but not sure?
My cousin owns since brand new, a 2008 Nissan Altima 2.5, automatic, 61k miles (90% of that highway)-immaculate condition. No longer under factory warranty.
Driving to the airport a few days back the car starts-every 2 minutes or so- bucking and almost stalling, although it never did stall. He flies off and upon returning 5 days later, while driving back home the car starts acting up again. The symptoms are more severe now and getting progressively worse: there is loss of motive power and the max speed is 15-20 mph. He takes it straight to the local Nissan dealer on the way home. Nissan Dealer takes it in for diagnosys on the spot: leaking radiator internally, allowing coolant in the transmission.
I own a 2003 Nissan Altima and I am having trouble switching off my radio since a couple of months. All the other features work except for the power button. As a result, the radio is always on.
View 2 RepliesI have an '08 Nissan Altima. Recently, the A/C automatically kicks on when I push the start button. And, the blower switches from the floor to the chest position. This started about the time I put a new battery in the car.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 Altima A/C won't blow cold air. Took it to my mechanic who says all switches, fuses, relays, compressor clutch are OK and system has pressure, but the compressor is shot. In order to get a replacement that's guaranteed I have to get a receiver/dryer with it. Also says not to get a compressor from the salvage yard. I'm wondering if there are any other testing procedures that could be used to be certain it is the compressor....
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