Nissan - Altima :: 1998 - Both Sun Visors Are Detached / Radio Volume Button Not Responsive?
Oct 24, 2014
My 1998 Nissan Altima has the following three problems that I want to fix:
1) Both sun visors are detached. How can I reattach them?
2) The front passenger side window power button works only occasionally. Sometimes I will pull the window down but can't pull it back up. So the driver has to do it. Is it possible to fix this on my own. If so, how?
3) Finally, the radio volume knob/button is not responsive enough. That is, I will spin it and it makes the clicking sound but the volume doesn't increase/decrease unless I turn the knob very carefully. How to fix?
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I have a 2007 nissan Altima and the sun roof is not working. It does not go back when you press the button. The vent will go up when you press the vent button on the sunroof but the sunroof itself will not go back. I have checked fuses and it's not that. Also it seems that the top of the sunroof on the outside of the car seems to be dropping down slightly on the left side. Could it be off track?
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I have a 2008 Altima coupe SE V6 with a manual transmission and approximately 45,000 miles. Recently, I have been having an issue with cruise control when going uphill. It started that I could not accelerate using the cruise control button going uphill without the cruise control cancelling. If I hit the "resume" button, the cruise control would try and accelerate again and cancel out again. Since I took it in earlier this week, the cruise control has been cancelling whenever going up even a relatively modest hill whether I'm accelerating or not, so, whatever the issue is, it appears to be getting worse.
Assuming it was a problem with the cruise control itself (which would presumably be covered under warranty) I took the car to a Nissan dealer. They said that the clutch was wearing out and so the gear was slipping (or something) when the cruise control was trying to accelerate, causing the cruise control to cancel.
I was pretty shocked given that the car only has 45,000 miles on it and I don't grind the gears or ride the clutch. I spend a good bit of time in D.C. area traffic, but even considering that, 45,000 miles?? I did buy the car used, so it's possible that the previous owner did a number on the car in the first 10,000 miles or so, but it still seemed unlikely. I haven't noticed any other symptoms of the clutch dying except that recently, when I accelerate in 1st gear and am around the engagement point, occasionally there is sort of a metal-on-metal sound; almost like when breaks need new pads or something, but not as high pitched or loud.
Any thoughts on: a) if the issue is really the clutch, and b) if so, why it would cost so much to replace?
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2006 Nissan Altima 2.5s.
I started my car yesterday and the radio came on as normal. When I turned off the car, it did not shut off as normal. This continued through a couple of stops.
When I got home and turned off the car, the radio was still playing. I disconnected the battery, the radio stopped. I reconnected the battery and now the radio will not turn on but everything else in the car is working fine.
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I own a 2003 Nissan Altima and I am having trouble switching off my radio since a couple of months. All the other features work except for the power button. As a result, the radio is always on.
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My wife's 1998 Nissan Altima , 100 K miles, starts to shake and stall in the summer when the A/C is on and she stops for a light.
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I am not getting any lights on blank dash board of car radio. However, I am getting other lights of the buttons.
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I have a 1998 Nissan Altima (manual transmission). The "Check engine light" came on. The oxygen sensor went bad again. I have had this repaired twice (to pass inspection). Every time I get it repaired, I take the car back to the inspection station and then it passes inspection. But in a few weeks to a couple of months, the "check engine light" comes on again. Every time I get this repaired its almost $400-$500 expense. I should probably take the car to another mechanic this time.
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1998 Nissan Altima with 150,000. It has been well maintained and had many of the major repairs completed. There is still something wrong that annoys the heck out of me. When in "P"ark, the exhaust makes a pop, like there is too much or too little exhaust. It enough to be audible when I am in the front seat. The tach drops maybe 50-100 RPM when it pops. It happens maybe once every 30-60 seconds.
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I picked up a nicely used 98 XL in Alabama yesterday, with 106k original miles. The dealer threw in FREE oil changes for life with my purchase, but I don't see me driving 2.5 hours to Alabama for that.
It's got crank up windows, manual locks, standard tranny, 4.2 V6, and the regular seats. Yep, pretty basic. It came with a matching fiberglass shell also. The only things wrong are the radio volume doesn't adjust, and the rear window frame appears cracked. These are minor in my opinion.
What drew me to this truck was the beautiful condition it's in and my love of this body style. What would be added to improve creature comforts, performance, etc.
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My 1998 Nissan Altima 4 cyl (auto) shut down on highway, would not restart, and had to be towed. My mechanic told me it is the computer. After seeing prices for new ECMs from a Nissan parts site, I am wondering if something else needs to be replaced. I don't want to put that kind of money into a 14 year old car with other problems and mileage of 155,000. Could whatever caused the computer to stop working be an additional cost. The mechanic provided minimal information and is actually recommending I get rid of the car due to a slow oil leak and control arm bushings that eventually need to be replaced. However, it just passed inspection and a few months ago, I replaced 4 tires and brake rotors.
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i have a 2003 nissan altima with 99288 miles on it. i just got it changed yesterday and one of the tech's showed me and said there was condensation on the oil cap and the oil was dark. he recommened an oil system cleaner. is this accurate or is there something more i should worry about? he also said i was 1/2 qt low. last time i got my oil changed at the same place he said my oil was 2qts low and recommened a semi sythenic blend to flush things out, which i did do. i usually get my oil changed about every 4000 miles or so, i try for 3000 but not too successful. i also drive 1/2 hr to and from work every day at a min.
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As I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
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Strange occurrence the other day that I have not been able to remedy. The volume/power button that can pop in & out on the dashboard hadn't been used of late but when I went to depress it, the button popped out. It is spring loaded and the knob itself has an end that is cut into quarters - persumably to fit into the female end within the JBL stereo unit itself. But can't figure out how to get it to stay in place as it continues to pop back out. Volume & power functions still work but button/knob won't stay in.
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Sometimes the volume button on the stereo nor the buttons on the steering button do not increase or decrease the volume. I can turn the stereo on and off - still the same. If I turn the engine off and on - this issue goes away. It's only just started happening in the past few weeks.
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Wipers, Compass and Steering Volume button stop working.... I cleared all codes, the problem still exists. I checked all the fuses, all ok. What else to do?
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So, my family owns a 2006 Nissan Altima, and it's developed a strange problem recently. It would start fine when cold, but then if I park it and come back 20 minutes later, it won't start again. Apparently this is a thing that happens with Altimas. Now for a while, it was starting after two or three tries, but now it just simply isn't turning over. When I watch it under the hood, it shudders some, and then there's a puff of warm air/exhaust, i don't know. I've read it might be the cam shaft sensor, but after replacing that the problem hasn't gone away, and a few people have said it might be the fuel pump, but I replaced that as well and it's still not starting up. I'm thinking i might try to replace the crankshaft sensor next but I thought I would ask here for advice and opinions just in case. This isnt the first time this has happened with this car, apparently - this happened once before, and the camshaft sensor being replaced fixed it.
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I have a1997 Nissan Altima 140k miles with the manual transmission. I have a fuel problem that I can't seem to solve. every 1-2 days and only intermittently and unpredictably my car starts to idle up and down and occasionally if I don't give it enough gas they car may stall but the stalls only happen when I am not pressing the accelerator, meaning only at resting idle. since I am fanatic on washing my engine, I initially though that spark plugs were dirty or not working, I changed the spark plugs the distributor cap and the wires but the symptom continues. then I check the resistance of all the four fuel injectors and all of them read at around 12.8 ohms. I have also treated the fuel system twice with injector cleaner, the kind that you find at a gas station but still, the problem persists.
if it is not too much trouble I have another smaller questions. if the car sits overnight or for a couple days, the shift is really easy but as the car warms up the shifting becomes harder. could the transmission fluid need to drained and replaced?
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on 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4-liter engine do you have to take off the valve cover to clean out EGR ports.
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2003 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL automatic - starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is hot. It acts flooded. I've changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, spark plugs, one spark plug coil, radiator, valve cover and the coolant temperature sensor. The car will turn over but will not start - sometimes it will after 5-10 minutes of trying.
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My wife has a 2001 Nissan Altima GXE with 89,000 miles. The car seems to run hot with the temp gauge reaching the "H" but never passes it, andwhen air conditioner is on it blows hot air; Then the car cools down it the air cools again, and this seems to happen all of the time.
Now, it's been happening for at Least 3 months, during this time it has had a tune up, the radiator flushed & hoses, thermostat replaced & lastly the ..... Sensor has been replaced & still the same thing happens the car temp runs hot cold up then down. We are at a loss here.
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