My 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo has 60,000 careful miles on the odometer. It began stumbling, like running on 3 cylinders, when started cold. Time of day and moisture make no difference. New Cold Start and Air Flow Sensors have worked a little, but it still has the stumbles about half the time when started cold.
View 5 RepliesWhat to do next. Engine is running on 4 cylinders, #1, 4, 5, 8. Had a mice nest on top of injector #2. Removed mice nest. The mice had chewed through wire for #2 injector and caused bear lead rubbing on the block. One lead rubbed through. Repaired, splised in a wire. Also changed rotor, rotor cap, all sparkplug leads and plugs.
Troubleshooting.
Compression on all 8 cylinders measured to be above 160 psi.
There is spark to all 8 cylinders, including the other 4 cylinders, 2, 3, 6, 7 that is nor developing power.
Fuel rail pressure is 35 psi on idle and spikes to 43 when reving the engine.
The fuel injector resistance all all measured injectors are the same (about 14.8 Ohm). Measured injector # 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8. Injector # 3 and 4 is hidden and require too much disassembly. Visual inspection deems wire for #3 and 4 injector to be ok on top of block.
Electric impulse (tested while engine was running) to injector # 1, 5 and 8 are ok, used test lamp to see that there are electric impulse to the injectors. Injector #2, 6 and 7 does not have any electric impulse. Unable to check electric impulse to # 3 and 4. However cylinder #4 develops power. Used moving the sparkplug wire for cylinder #4 to verify that is is developing power.
What would my next step be? Where should i look next?
1. Where is the control module and is it likely to fire to only 4 cylinders
2. Could it be an wire in the pickup element, under the distributor. All wires seem intact.
Ok so I'm having weird issues with my big turbo R. I thought I was having misfires in low rpm range. Car was stumbling and just not firing on all cylinders ( just an expression but that's what it felt like) realized it was because of the esp. Ok no the main issue. Vacuum was sitting around 14hg. When I come up to a light or stop sign or just put in neutral while moving it revs it self ad vacuum will go to almost 0hg until I come to a full stop.
The rev is not a big rev only like 100-150 rpm increase. Also the throttle response is not there if I go to rev match down shift. Here's the weird part. If I unplug the Maf it runs super smooth 19-20hg vacuum amazing throttle response clutch chatter almost goes away. There are no cel with or without the Maf plugged in I have logs for both...
Recently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
I have a 1999 Nissan Frontier, 4cy, 5speed. About a week ago, it began stumbling sporadically so my first thought was that maybe a spark plug had fouled. I changed the spark plugs, and the problem persisted. At this point, I begin thinking maybe it's a fuel issue. I went to Advance and bought Lucas Oil fuel system treatment and added it to the 1/2 tank of gas I had at the time. Going home from Advance it ran great. No stumbling. However, it started again the next day. I ran out that 1/2 tank of fuel and filled up again and it is still doing the same thing. It idles a little rough, and stumbles while going up through the RPM range between shifts. Once I get up to highway speed in 5th gear, it seems to do okay. Should I add more fuel injector cleaner or maybe SeaFoam? Could it possibly be a clogged fuel filter?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Sienna xle that started running rough when the weather turned cold. When started, the car idles very high and will not shift properly until it was been running for around 5 minutes. After that it will run well for about 10-15 minutes and then begin to run rough or poorly. The problem is very noticeable at low speeds and when stopped. It never actually kills, but it feels like it is going to. At high speeds it is less noticeable but occasionally you will feel it jerk or chug like the transmission is slipping or a belt or something.
I took it to a mechanic who checked the codes and found that the ignition coils were supposedly bad. I say supposedly because they replace three of the ignition coils and the problem still persists. I then took it back to the mechanic who then told me it was the oxygen sensor. The o2 sensor was replaced and the problem is still there with no noticeable improvement. I again to it back to the mechanic who tells me that they scratching their heads.
I have done some looking around on the internet and have found some discussions that seem to have some promising leeds and actually last weeks car talk show had a caller who described a similar problem. The guys told him it could be a oxygen sensor but they thought a better possibility would be EGR valve or a vacuum leak. Not sure if this sienna has an EGR, but I plan to suggest looking into it to the mechanic. Also, I found some discussions talking about the idle control valve and the engine control module.
124k, original owner, no mods. Car was running rough and stumbling a bit. A bunch of codes came up. I replaced coils because I had them, spark plugs look good. One code came back p0103. I cleaned the throttle butterfly and replaced the maf sensor. Still same problem.
When I first start it cold it idles high but stays running , once it warms a little the idle drops and then it won't stay running. Then the traction control light comes on and then the cel. I checked for a vacuum leak but came up with nothing.
I have an 86 Nissan pickup with a z24 motor in it, yes the weird 4 cyl. With 8 plugs. It has been lurching when I let off the throttle or sometimes when I accelerate. Its been doing it for a year and won't do it all the time it is intermittent but does it more then it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesSo I bought an 04 3 months ago everything seemed good all deltas were good had a small leak nothing serious. I had the egr deleted then i did the mistake of flooring it 1 morning at top end and the mech is telling me threw a valve. The truck was stumbling and running ruff with white smoke. looks like cycl. 7 took a hit and shows 10 psi of compression. The injector are in working order and so are the rockers. the bill is 3500 all in for new gaskets and oil cooler head work, arp studs and labor.
View 8 RepliesTwo wheel drive, small engine with two spark plugs per cylinder...clutch with five speed transmission. Over two hundred thousand miles on it. Drove it thirty miles on a rainy evening. Shut it off for about one hour and when I tried to restart, it just went click. Got towed thirty miles home. Replaced starter with brand new one and also new battery. Still nothing but click-click. Does start from clutch engagement when rolling. The trouble seems to be somewhere between the starter and the battery. What to do?
View 3 RepliesAfter starting my truck the dash warning lights (oil, battery, brake, low fuel) stay lit and flicker for 20-30 seconds then go out with the exception of the battery light. It remains dimly lit for 2-3 minutes before finally going out. The battery and alternator have tested OK. I cleaned the battery ground connections andreplaced the check light relay. Still the same situation. '86 Nissan Hardbody Pickup ....
View 1 RepliesSo the last couple times I got a car wash the truck started running real rough, sometimes dies, then runs fine after a few minutes. Well, the last car wash I got it did it again, but the issue didn't go away. I checked the injector plugs, cleaned and greased, no change. Validated the bowl is filling with fuel, changed fuel filter, no luck.
Sometimes it will start and idle fine, rev in neutral fine, if you come off throttle abruptly it will fall below normal idle and start stumbling with an SES light and eventually die.
I managed to get it idling good, started logging with TPro (attached) and it was throwing codes P0475 - Exhaust Pressure Control Valve, and P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, as well as P1211, p1249, p1316 listed as 'multiple descriptions'.
I'm assuming this is an electrical issue since it happened after washing the truck, just not sure what sensor would cause all this?
Got an 07 Screw with only 50,000 miles. Yesterday, wife drove it home from work and said it would only do 45mph and didn't sound good. No warning lights were on, she said. I test drove it in the evening and it ran totally fine. Today, she drives it to work and said it ran real rough and "Check Engine" light was on. I picked it up from her work and it idles very rough and slow, and once you hit about 2000 rpm, it runs decent, maybe even normal. Below that, it stumbles and engine doesn't sound right. "Check Engine" light is either ON steady, or flashing. I don't have a code reader, so its likely going to the Ford Dealer Monday. Is there any way to read the code without a reader?
View 11 RepliesGot a MIL light last night and car started to run like it was on three cylinders. Had a little bit of cam lop to it. LOL Anyways my engine compartment was abit dirty so i just sprayed some water out of the how to get alot of the dirt out.. I think thats where it went wrong? I am assuming everyone else will agree. What is weird there was about 8 hour period between me using the water and this incident. No issue but I did get some new gas.. Are people just thinking coil pack got wet and caused the problem?
View 2 RepliesMy Grandfathers Thunderbird has sat for 5 years. I need to get it running again. I can hear the fuel pump build pressure, replaced fuel filter. After cranking on it, eventually it will start. When it starts to die, I give it some more gas, RPMs increase but it doesnt run much longer. I do smell gas after it dies. After a couple times of this the battery has to be recharged. I hook it up to a jump at 55amp's and it will start once more and then die. Also, I did drain the fuel and put in half a tank of new gas and 1 - bottle of gas treatment.
View 1 Replies1986 Ford Ranger / 2.3 EFI / 140 CID OHC /4-Cyl/5 speed
So the last time I was here, I was having doggy issues which I thought were fuel related. I'm still having issues, although it appeared to cleared up a bit.
When I start the engine, it cranks over, I'd give it some gas, it would rev up, then suddenly die, no matter if I pressed down on the gas pedal or not. After two or three times doing this, it would turn over and maintain a steady idle, then off I go.........
The problem now? Well, late today I tried to get it going, and after about 15 times, I gave up. It would not stay idling, it would crank over then die. I did not want to ruin the starter. It seems the gas pedal is worthless after the engine decides to conk out, and no matter how many times I step on the gas pedal, nothing happens.
Has been replaced within the last few months:
Fuel filter regulator,
Inline fuel filter,
Cap and rotor,
Lucas fuel injector cleaner,
ECC computer, and Fuel relay switches, (multi-function relay/connector switch)
Air Control Valve - Removed and cleaned.
Checked all vacuum hoses.
Has not been replaced:
Map Sensor, (was told it's located on Pass. fender wall, but can't find it, according to the manual)
EGR Valve and sensor,
Throttle Position Sensor,
EVP sensor,
Spark plugs, (two years ago)
Plug wires, (two years ago)
Ignition control module, (replaced about six years, or more)
With trying to keep the gas going to turn it over, it does not, so to me, it seems to be more of a fuel problem than electrical, but I'm no mechanic.
I have my car and it takes a few times to start but once its on it wont stay running if i let go of the key or the ignition cylinder ....
View 4 RepliesI just been told my volvo 850 estate is backfiring and running on 4 cylinders instead of 5. I have been told he will have to run diagnostics and go from there.
View 5 RepliesI have a supra that is only running on the first and last cylinder. It was running poor and I pulled off the spark plug wires to see how it ran. After more testing I removed all 4 middle plug wires and it kept running the exact same. What would be causing this? The plugs and wires are new.
View 19 RepliesFriend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.