Neon :: 99 - Backup Light Fuse Blown And AC Quits Working
Oct 25, 2009
Weird deal here, the backup light fuse blows on a 1999 Neon and the AC quits blowing cold. I replace the fuse and the AC starts blowing cold. I found out this is the #8 fuse, 10 amp and it controls the rear window heat, fan relay, ac cycling switch and backup lights.
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I have to press Cancel before I can get my cruise control to work. I had a problem about a year ago where my cruise control wasn't working, and found out that a blown brake light fuse was the problem. Now I turn my CC on and the "Cruise" light comes on, I then press the set button, and nothing. I then press the cancel button and then the set button and then the "Set" light comes on.
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my car sounded very bad and upon raising the hood, noticed a spark plug had blown off. When this happened the steering and brakes got hard to use.
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So I added in a set of LED lights for my license plate and parking lights. In addition to HID's for the headlights tonight. At some point my tails/parking & license plate lights shut off. I assume its a fuse, I'm wondering if this is common or the result of low quality product.
I've used the same installer/lights on every car I've had for the last 5 yrs and never an issue. No issues in my Scion Xd, Mustangs and so on.
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My 03 5.4 the obd2 port isnt working i have tried 4 bluetooth adapters and a snap on scanner and nothing will connect to the ecm. im having problems and trying to read codes my check engine light isnt on but that don't mean anything. my truck is running really rich and blows a little bit black smoke when i rev it up after its been idling a few min and getting horrible gas mileage again. yesterday i went to start it and i had to crank on it 4 time before it finally started and then when i reved it up it almost died on the way back down but it caught itself. then today i go out and it starts right up and runs fine but its still running rich but i still cant get an obd2 adapter to connect to the ecm. I checked the fuse and its not blown my cigarette plug and the power port both work. i really dont know where to start in trying to figure out this problem. Right now iI don't really want to take it to a shop right now.
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This is for a 2000 Silhouette, yet I see there's lots more traffic for the Venture, so thought I'd start here first.
Backup lights don't light, when minivan put into reverse. b/up fuse ok (engine bay, #27), bulbs ok (swapped with new lights, and switched with turn lights, to confirm).
The circuit board is a potential, yet hard to believe that out of 8 bulbs, only 2 would go, and that would be 1 on each side, and only the reverse lights (not the marker, stop, or turn). Will go at it with a multi-meter, to see if there's current, for the next step.
Searches show that it could be the gear position sensor, stuck with what part this would be, and where this part would be. Would this be a pin-to-ground physical sensor, a gear position sensor by the transmission, something linked to the gear selector arm, etc? And once found, is this something that is replaced, or adjusted (imagine the reverse lights going on, when in neutral!)? Still looking for info, on that one.
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A few years back, we had the unfortunate luck of have the Crank Position Sensor fail in our 2004 Sante Fe. The sensor failed again 2 years later. Most recently, it broke down again, and acted the same as it did when the CPS went....upon deceleration and braking, it lost power and began to chug before it finally shut off. This time, the ECU 20 amp fuse blew, and the engine light came on.
It had been raining heavily the day prior, so we thought that the ECU or harness got wet. It sat for a few days, and when we started it with the new fuse, it ran just fine, with the exception of the engine light remaining on. Wife drove it to work tonight, and the fuse popped again. Given that the engine light is on, could the failure be due to an emissions control sensor or it's wiring shorting out?
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My 2007 F150's turn signals and hazard lights quit working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. Once I pulled the old fuse out the truck wouldn't start at all. What happened?
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I have a 1996 camry and the break light don't come on non of them. I change the switch under the break pedal and it didn't work. I change the fuse but when I did so it spark and blew the fuse. Is there a reason for this? where should i go next with this issue.
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The first time installing my hid without a relay harness was a fail. One side keep coming on and off and I gave up went back to stock after it blew out my fuse. This time I tried using using the same kit with a relay harness and it was good for about 10-15 mins and then it starts flickering then both side went off. Pulled over and realized my fuse blew out again. I am having real bad luck with hid, or is it a bad kit?? I love hid but it's really causing me a headache. Can my 2014 Camry not handle HID or what? New kit?? Car can't handle hid?? Why does my fuse keep blowing?!! My kit is opt7 by the way.
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Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
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I was installing xenon supply HIDs in my 2012 Sonata and when attaching the power cable to the battery my ratchet went ahead and touched metal while it was assisting me in tightening the nut
Small spark, tiny puff of smoke and the popping sound associated with such an event. I see what appears to be a little fuse under a clear plastic cover on the positive battery terminal itself. On it says 150 AMP. the pop sound came from that. So I am assuming its blown.
Here is my real concern...the red battery symbol now stays on when I start the car...
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Short, the dome and interior light fuse keeps blowing. Car is 2009 hyundai sonata nf. Is the bcm computer gone? The fuse pops as soon as i put a fuse in the car. The car can be off or on..it doesn't matter.
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I noticed I was not shifting into 4x4 electronically and replaced the blown fuse in the engine compartment. Now the 4x4 light goes on, but I don't think it is engaging the system...
The back end breaks free very easily, but there seems to be a little pull in the front. Is it possible to have unequal power to the wheels?
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I bought my first Lexus, great car. 2003 GX470 with 106k. I have had one problem with the fuse for the dome light. This issue has been on going since I bought the vehicle a couple months back and I can usually fix the problem by just replacing the fuse. Now when I try to replace the fuse, the fuse sparks and blows before I can even put it into the slot. Obviously there is something going on here that won't allow the fuse to be inserted before blowing. How to rectify this issue?
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Driving home from work around 10pm. Leo started explaining that i had no taillights on but the brakes worked. He was right. I came home and found out my parking light fuse under the steering column was blown. I replaced the mini 10-amp fuse with a spare and they started working again. Then later, they stopped working again. Only thing i have installed electronic upgrade wise is after market LED fog lights(which went out with the parking lights but both came back on with the new fuse) and Navi bypass. What could it be?????
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I have a fuse blowing in my 98 Citation that is in the panel light/exterior running lights (front and back). Could the short be in the dimmer switch in the dashboard or is that unlikely?
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I can't find any info about this "always on" reverse light issue. My searches show that most people with the problem only have it when they put it in to revers. Mine's broken but the light is on all of the time indicating it's not working.
I can go through the sensors, but I think the system only recognizes sensor failures when the car is in reverse. What's my first/next step?
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My 2006 Azera Limited keeps blowing its backup fuse (10amp) whenever I so much as move an inch in reverse. Moving from P to D (or even past the manual gate) is OK, as long as I don't take my foot off the brake when passing R.
I've so far burned through 4 fuses and still don't know what the problem is.
Here's some history:
The first time this happened yesterday AM, I just replaced the blown b/up fuse with the spare 10amp and the car ran fine the whole day, including several feet of reversing.
The second time this happened was today AM. I ran out of extra fuses, and decided to use the ABS (10amp) fuse instead, to be able to go pick up extra fuses at the local autoparts store. On the drive, I kept seeing check engine and ABS failure messages on the IP, as expected.
After I replaced the 2nd blown fuse, the check engine light came on. I didn't have my code reader with me (it's a funky bluetooth obd reader + android tablet, and i don't always carry the tablet). Had the local gas station look at the codes, and was told of "speed sensor" and a "high-speed controller link" error codes.
Reversed out of the parking spot at the gas station, and the fuse blew again. Twice.
Nothing on the car (other than as described above) has changed in the past several months. I haven't had the car washed for over 6months, but did drive in the rain several weeks ago. There haven't been any other changes at all (I opened the hood up just yesterday after several weeks of not needing to). The car is stock, there haven't been any major modifications (except, I removed an aftermarket nav system and put the stock 6cd radio back, but that was several months ago).
I'm pretty sure there's some sort of electrical fault somewhere, but can't quite figure out what / where.
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No tail, turn, backup, flasher, license plate - NOTHING. i checked fuses - cleaned both connectors under the truck by drivers door, cleaned connectors by the spare tire (2) one large one and one small round, the cleaned ground lug on top of spare tire bracket, all bulbs are new. cleaned with LPS contact cleaner, they were new and shiny and reinstalled. NOW - turn is very weak and when i push on brake they go off and the front blinkers blink twice as fast? I a aircraft technician and know my way with an ohm meter but totally stumped.
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When I changed the alternator on my 2000 plymouth neon, I crossed the wires for the plug. Now the fuel pump fuse keeps blowing, when it turns over, which isn't often. I turn the key and nothing happens.
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