Neon :: 2000 Automatic - RPMs Jumping At Highway Speed - Engine Tone Change
May 27, 2012
2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
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I have a 2000 Neon with about 170K miles on it. with in the last 2 weeks it has been having a problem with acceleration. When i start to drive the RPMs will get up to 4 before it will start to move. Also when i am drive and need to pick up speed the RPMs will also go up to about 4 before it starts to pick up speed, but will drop back down when the speed goes up. I have found a little oil in the spark plug tubes and will be changing the seals out, and I have cleaned to MAP sensor as will. What is going on with my acceleration.
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I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
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So I'm having some fun issues with my S10 Blazer right now.
1992 S10 Blazer 4x4 4.3L TBI, 4-speed auto (not electronic)
ABS Codes- 41, 42, 46, 51, 52, 65, 67, 68
The speedometer is jumping around sporadically.
Gas mileage has dropped astoundingly. Tank has gotten me 80 miles!!!! Poorest MPG ever!!
Also, may be related, the tranny has shifted properly for awhile. Slips from 4th to 3rd when letting off the gas at highway speed, and won't detente shift 4th to 3rd even with the gas completely floored. I had the tranny rebuilt in November and had the detente cable replaced a couple of weeks ago. I'm going to make sure it was adjusted correctly today by using the shop manual method: shift the cable back and ratchet forward with throttle or gas pedal.
As far as the ABS and speedometer go, I'm going to test what I can with the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and the DRAC module today. With my WinALDL scan tool, I found it is definitely not a speedometer issue because the speed coming from the computer is fluctuating as well.
There is a test in the shop manual to do, but are there any other tests for the VSS or DRAC module? Reason here is because I replaced the VSS after the tranny rebuild in November. So either the DRAC module is acting up or something in the transfer case is screwed.
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Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
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I have a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with about 70k with a CEL P0171 that came on yesterday. Looks like that code is for a lean condition. Could it be a bad O2 sensor or is that a different code and what should I look for to fix this code?
Also, I'm not sure if this is related but for the past few months my engine has sounded different. When I first start it up and at low RPM like 2,000 and under the engine sounds like a go kart, not necessarily louder it's just a different lower tone that it never used to have. It has sounded like this for 6 months but the light just came on yesterday.
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I am having issues with my 2003 F150 4.6L truck. It just happened today when driving home. It started fine and then when I increased the speed and the rpms went up to about 2000rpms, the engine seemed to slip into neutral. I stepped on the gas but the truck would not accelerate, it was just coasting. I pulled over to the side of the road and came to a stop, but didn't shut off the engine.
After a few seconds, I proceeded to give it some gas, and it engaged in gear and accelerated...until I got to about 25mph & rpms increased to about 2000 again. It did the same exact thing....seemed to shift back to neutral so that I could not accelerate. I had to keep pulling over to come to a stop, and then slowly proceed again. I wasn't too far from home & I made it. What this issue could be?
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Just curious. Are my RPM's running high? Currently I'm running 3000 rpm's at 76 mph. Is that high? Someone told me it was. (My speedometer shows I'm running 80mph but both my gps show 76mph, stock tires, 1.8T). Pretty sure I'm in range.
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I'm new to owning a Toyota. I just financed a 2010 black Toyota corolla S with 36 miles on it from a local dealership after i decided my last car was pretty much a money pit (2001 expedition)...blew the head gaskets, then after that was fixed developed a bad knock...anyhow i just decided i was overdue for a new car. Its a 5 speed manual and at highway speeds (65-70mph) I've noticed the rpms are bit high...like around 3grand. Is that normal? Just seemed really high to me, I really think this car would do great with a 6 speed. Also is the corolla governed? I was on a long stretch of road and i quickly got to 110ish with no sign of a governor kicking in...?
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I have a 2000 GT with over 120K miles on it. The car works perfect, just a minor issue with O2 Sensor that I am going to replace soon
My question is, when I'm on the highway going around 70 to 90 miles on fifth gear, her RPMs are about 4K to 5K, is that normal??
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I'm not sure if this is a general FWD car problem or a Prius problem but a week ago I noticed a loud, and reasonably pure, tone that seems to be coming from the front of my '05 Prius at highway speed I don't believe it is tire, alignment, or road noise The car knows that something is wrong because it occationally throws some error lights but refuses to reveal the specific code My current thought is drive shaft, axle, CV joint, or similar but I don't know if that can turn on the error lights Any thoughts? Could I have two independent issues?
The car has 157k miles and was in two minor accidents before I got it One required a rear bumper replacement, the other they had to pop out a dent from the front driver's side quarter panel The records do not indicate that any other parts were damaged I have owned the car for 25k miles
Error lights: A few days after the noise started and 30 minutes into my morning commute while driving at highway speed up a hill (20kW from the ICE) I got the big red triangle of doom, ((!)), VSC, and the mark on the red car on the MFD. Aside from the lights the car appeared to drive normally I checked the voltage on the MFD less than a minute after the lights came on and it showed 14.1V The MIL light was not lit, and the Torque app on my android was not able to pull a DTC but was able to clear the error and consequently turn off the warning lights
The next day the same warning lights popped up again and at the end of the commute I used a paperclip to connect pin 4 and 13 on the OBD port in an attempt to read the code When I turned the car on with the two pins shorted the red triangle lit but the ABS, ((!)), and VSC lights all blinked at 2 Hz indicating their systems were normal After turning the car on and off four times the red triangle went away
The error lights have now popped up four times, each time after more than 30 minutes of driving I have also had several trips longer than an hour where the lights did not come on
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My van just started to have this issue today with jerking real hard like its dropping a couple of gears while going between 50-60mph. It is a 2000 with the flex fuel 3.3L 4 speed auto.When this happens the spedo will go from 55mph to 40 instantly while keeping a steady speed and it feels like the tranny is going to rip right out. This will happen every 5 to 10 min but go back to normal driving after 3 sec and has not popped any codes. It runs like a top and all fluids are at the correct levels. I have to commute 50 miles a day to work so i really need to figure this out!!!
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Car runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
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I've been trying to figure out what exactly is going on with my car but its hard to explain/describe it so I've decided to video it..
Driving + shifting + holding my phone + my GTI is spun all the way down on coils = shakie video.
In Video #1, I'm in 4th gear at 2800 RPM and gave it full throttle. Watch it closely at 0:04 you will notice how the RMP just jump back a little and then continue accelerating while the boost is holding at 15psi.
Video #2, same story at 0:04 except the boost jumps back as well.
It does NOT seem normal and im not sure whats wrong and where to even start.
Slipping clutch?
Diverter Valve?
Boost/vacuum leak?
Turbo into DP leak?
My GTI is APR Stage II, intake and catless turboback exhaust.
Video #1
Video #2
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I own a 2009 VW tiguan 2TSI 4WD. Lately i am experiencing undercarriage low tone grinding noise as i made turns at slow speed. i am not sure if the noise is coming from the rear or front. Why and what should i do about it.
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It's a '00 zr2, usually after 15-20mins driving I see smoke blowing out rear at highway speed. If I'm driving slow same results with smoke just rolls out from hood. Smells like trans fluid although doesn't seem like the level is any lower yet.... Guessing gasket when under pressure, I would guess passenger side hitting manifold but I haven't seen obvious leaks don't know where to start.
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0l manual. When the car is running the rpms jump up and Down from about 300 rpm to 900 rpm and I guess that's why the car will stall out every time I press the clutch to stop. Also the car won't run with the MAF plugged in. If the MAF is plugged in it will drive but will not idle the car will just stall.
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I have a 06 B6 that I am having issues with. We took a trip to Vegas in June and had no problems the entire way. We get home and the next day he starts throwing a CEL. We take it to our mechanic to have him VAG COM it and he says it is running rich at idle. The mechanic says that we may have gotten some bad gas when we left Vegas. Ok, no worries, we put new gas in the car along with some fuel cleaner and it seems to be ok. I drive the car 7 miles each way to work, and the way I break is that I coast into it before I brake. I noticed that the RPM's started jumping around. My husband took it to the mechanic and he said to clean the MAF and to take the intake off. Done, still getting a CEL.
So I take it back to the mechanic and he says its the seal inside the High Pressure Fuel Pump, while because of the CamFlower/Fuel Pump issue the only one in Phoenix is 50 miles away and at an Audi dealership that wanted to mark it up 50%. He also said that it smelled like fuel under the oil cap. So I go and get it, only to get it put on (Wednesday), everything good and then I notice today(Friday) that it is still jumping around. I have had the code cleared today but I am afraid that it is still something else. The CEL is off but for how long I dont know.
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I've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
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My wifes 2008 Eddie Bauer Explorer V-6 recently started having an erratic idle and we've started noticing it while at higher RPM's. Its almost as if there is a cylinder that misfires but no engine light is coming on. The car stumbles like it is going to start to die, then the idle jumps up and smooths out. A little while later it does the same thing. The car has I think 74,000 miles on it and has never had the plugs or wires changed. I change out the fuel filter roughly every 24,000 miles and did it recently in the spring. Any places where I should start looking? Could a misfire not trigger the check engine light?
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My car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
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