Mustang :: No AC Cooling As Compressor Was Not On
Jul 24, 2013
My daughter has a 02 stang with the 3.8 . the other day she complained that her ac was not cooling so i put my gauges on it and checked the freon. the compressor was on and the low side showed about 35 and high side was about 225. it was cooling good, now today it was not cooling at all and the compressor was not on so i jumped the pressure switch on the dryer and it came on, pulled the jumper and plugged it back in and compressor came back on and started cooling. I might have a bad pressure switch also about the pressures could the orfice tube be getting stopped up. this car must have had ac problems before with the previous owner because someone has wired the ac clutch 12v+ wire to the outlet side of the pressure switch and the 12v- side to a ground screw.
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I have a 95 stang that I just had refilled with Freon and oil at Ice Cold Air. The compressor turns on then cuts off as if its low on Freon but its not. Last night the ac started blowing cold and was this morning then started back on the compressor turning on then off. I know it has Freon in it and is full. Could it be that the orifice tube is clogged or maybe even the drier? is this something that I could take off and try to clean out?
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2006 Mustang GT Convertible; air conditioner doesn't always work. When I press the button to turn on the air conditioner, the panel light illuminates but the a/c compressor does not engage. After driving the car for anywhere between 10 and 45 minutes, the compressor clutch will engage and the air conditioner cools normally. When I first noticed this problem over a year ago, I discovered that if I left the air conditioner in the "on" position when I turned off the car, the air conditioner would work the next time I started the car. This hasn't happened lately (so much for that "solution"). The car has been at the local Ford dealer multiple times for this problem and although they have been able to duplicate the problem, they have no solution. The dealer checked the electronics, recharged the system and tested the computer and told me that these were all fine.
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Ok I am at my wits end with this. I have a 2000 Mustang GT 5-speed with 80k miles. When the A/C is on it will occasionally misfire at steady, low (between 1-2k) RPMs and will have a fluctuating idle as well. Occasionally the fluctuating idle is bad enough that it stalls out. It only does this when the compressor is engaged. It sounds like a vacuum leak, but I have checked and cannot find any sort of vacuum leak. Also, it throws a P0300 (Random/Multiple misfire) code. When the A/C is off it runs like a charm. Here is everything that I have done...
Replaced COPs
Replaced spark plugs
Cleaned MAF sensor
Cleaned IAC valve
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump (unrelated to this, the old one just died)
Ran seafoam through the motor
New battery (again, unrelated)
and maybe some other stuff I am forgetting
Also, I have taken some readings:
Fuel pressure @ idle ~32psi
Vacuum @ idle ~17in Hg
Had alternator tested - OK
Pressure in A/C system checked out OK (though I did use one of those AZ cans with a gauge on it, not sure how reliable that is)
Also, the A/C works great. It's like an arctic wind in there.
I am at a total loss for what to do. I would suspect it's something with the motor that is simply exacerbated by the added load of the A/C but I suppose it could be the A/C compressor? Is it possible that it needs lube? Doesn't the freon lube the compressor? (The pressure indicates it's fully charged and the A/C blows cold AF) ...
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03 Santa Fe, 2.7 L engine. No cooling happening. Compressor not running. Jumpered both sides of the triple pressure switch. Jumpering Low/high side resulted in slight increase in engine rpm, Jumpering medium side and something turned on (didn't get a chance to investigate) but still no clutch operation on compressor. Wondering what to try next other than disconnecting and dropping compressor ?? Checked AC relay on the bench and the coil operates and contacts close, so that's good. Also10A fuse before relay contacts is OK.
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I have an 05 Prius with 53k miles and the ac just recently stopped working. The blower fan still comes on, but neither the compressor nor condenser cooling fan will come on. I've checked the fuses and relays, and they check out ok. I'm hoping there may be one I missed? It just stopped working with no warning signs. What could be causing this? If the compressor was bad, the condenser fan would still work, right? I'm fearing it's the ac inverter. Do the symptoms match?
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We have a 2003 Nissan frontier pickup (automatic).The AC recently stopped cooling, but the fan works. It was cooling perfectly great when all of a sudden, it stopped. If we turn the AC on, the compressor (I'm guessing) starts to click and continues to click until turned off. (started to grind under hood). It's not a rattle, definitely a click as if it wants to turn on but can't make the electrical connection. It kind of sounds like when a starter has gone bad and it clicks. Except, it does it repetitively until turned off. This doesn't happen if we turn on the fan but leave the AC off. Does it sound like the compressor went out? How can we troubleshoot it?
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I have a 98 Grand am with the 2.5 and recently noticed first that the a/c compressor wasn't coming on. It had freon added recently and did okay for a few days,then no compressor coming on again. (It still has freon) Then I noticed that the engine cooling fan was running as long as the engine is running on cold or hot engine with heat controls off (I know the compressor runs when on on defrost position as well as a/c). I thought the 2 problems may be related? I found 5 relays at R/F strut tower and the 3rd relay cut off the fan,so I swapped some of the relays, but made no difference.The fan only quits when I turn the engine off, and I can't get the a/c compressor to come. I don't if I have 2 seperate problems or not. Could it be the PCM?
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The issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
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2007 Ford F150 half-ton. No cooling of air at the outlet of the ductwork. Freon charge is good, I watched the tech pull the system down and hold it for the prescribed time period. Compressor will not start. I am being told that this means a failed compressor, but I am of the idea that the pressure switch for low pressure must have failed, or the orifice is stopped up. I am also being told that the compressor, evaporator, and orifice tube needs replaced in order to remedy this issue. The counter man at my local parts house cannot find in his computer any pressure switches, kinda making me think that everything is in the unit. In short, if I can avoid buying the compressor, I would like to.
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Have an issue with my front air con not working.....
When you start the car there is a rattle/squeaking noise, this sounds like a worn pulley, when you press the air con button to turn it on the noise stops. It does not make any sound changes to the unit/engine to indicate the compressor engages and the is no cooling from the unit.....
Is it a new compressor or is there a common fix for this issue?
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Other than lack of cooling ,will a failed ac compressor on a 2006 Volkswagen Beetle cause other issues if not repaired? it is a convertible.
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My 6.0 is cooling poorly . Clutch is engaging , condenser free of obstructions, static charge L95 , H. 105. Running psi at 94 ambient is 50 and 225. This morning with cooler ambient in mid 70's it was 40 and 200. I'm thinking compressor .
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Cooling Fans and a/c compressor not working-2000 Grand Prix. They both work when I jumper them. Replaced coolant temperature sensor, checked fuses and relays -all good. Not sure what to troubleshoot from here.
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99 lumina. Ac was not working. I added a few oz's and the compressor clicked on but cooling fans were not running. After 10 min of idling the fans did come on but went off after 1-2 minutes. It seemed like they were responding to coolant temp more than ac pressure. Do the fans run when the hi pressure rises to a certain point where the computer will turn on fans?
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Here is the issue i am having. 2011 F-350 King ranch with all bells and whistles. In Arizona now we are in the season that the weather is cold in the AM and sometimes hot enough in the late afternoon to need the A/C in the truck. with the settings on Auto which i normally do, and the external temp reading in the 80s, and the internal thermostat set at 70 or lower, the A/C compressor will not engage and allow for cooling the cab of the truck. But sometimes it will work just fine. I am assuming there is a temp sensor for cabin temperature. Where that is located. or will i have to change out the entire Climate Control Module. I would take it in to have it checked out but it is an intermittent problem, and i cant not have my truck for a couple of days while they try and figure it out.
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Every time I step on the gas in my 97 ford mustang, it starts to shake. it shakes few a few seconds and then stops. im not really sure why or what is making it do that.
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My 1993 Mustang GT 5.0 will not go in to 2nd gear. It's the AOD and it goes into 1st, 3rd and OD just fine. I've heard there a pressure bolt that set the pressure in the trans and that it may be why I can't go into 2nd. And I've also heard that my TV cable may be stretched.
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Let's say I'm going from zero to forty, my RPMs will hit over 3000, but when it shifts, the RPMS will drop down to 2000-ish really hard, making the car jerk. It's not a smooth drop, it's like a split second. Upon acceleration there is also a very rapid knocking sound. There's no lights on my instrument cluster.
This trouble all started after I had my alternator die, then having the car towed a few months back. Ever since then this problem has been getting worse. Wat this could be?
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I noticed something strange the other day that my 89 GT can be started without the key ! Everything works as it should but you do not have to put the key in the ignition lock switch. I did have the ignition switch replaced many years ago when Ford had the recall due to a possible fire.. I believe the switch that was replaced is located down under the base of the steering column and activated with a rod from the column key lock.. Is it hard to replace this column lock switch ?
I would rather do it myself instead of paying a locksmith to do it..I do have an anti-start security system on it and when you enable it it locks out the ignition. To start it you have to enter a certain 5 number code for it to crank. I had this car since new and only 117k on the clock and runs like new. Where can I obtain a replacement "key lock assembly " ? This is the original key lock on the column..Just worn out I guess . Only thing I replaced on this car was a new clutch due to a bad throw out bearing making noise at 80k and a water pump and serpentine belt at 90k and a noisy fuel pump. Still has the original prone to failure ignition control module.
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I recently changed the blower motor and blower motor resistor in my 98 Ford Mustang. Why my blower is still not putting out an air flow?
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