Mustang :: Car Shakes When Step On The Gas
May 5, 2015
Every time I step on the gas in my 97 ford mustang, it starts to shake. it shakes few a few seconds and then stops. im not really sure why or what is making it do that.
View 2 RepliesEvery time I step on the gas in my 97 ford mustang, it starts to shake. it shakes few a few seconds and then stops. im not really sure why or what is making it do that.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Buick Le Sabre and the car shakes when I step on the gas about 356mph and up. The steering wheel doesn't shake at all. I had my tires re-balanced twice but didn't work. Now a mechanic is telling me it might be the axle rod. How much will this cost? and is it a big job?
View 4 Repliesdrive an '05 sc430 and the steering wheel shakes at above 50mph when I lightly step on the brakes. I have recently had my brakes done and an alignment done as well as both rear shocks replaced.
View 14 RepliesLove my 2012 TDI SEL. Lately I have noticed that it seems that the AC cuts out when I step on the brakes. I typically notice when I get off the freeway and come to a stop at the end of the off-ramp. The air coming out of the vents will be warm for some 5 - 10 seconds then get cold again.
I have also noticed this symptom from time to time when cruising along on the freeway. I know that some cars will disengage the AC if you really step hard on the gas, but that's not what's going on here it seems..... I have never had that happen in any other car. Is this normal for the 2012 Passat?
I have a 2004 Civic Hybrid with 120,000 miles. It's been lurching when I step on the gas. I took it to a mechanic who said all 4 motor mounts were 'broken' and they replaced them. The car is still in the shop and they are saying that the lurching is not fixed. They say there is a problem with the transmission but they don't do transmissions. Should I tell them to put the old motor mounts back on? Is it safe to drive with broken motor mounts or a transmission that is causing the car to lurch?
View 1 RepliesMy daughter has a 02 stang with the 3.8 . the other day she complained that her ac was not cooling so i put my gauges on it and checked the freon. the compressor was on and the low side showed about 35 and high side was about 225. it was cooling good, now today it was not cooling at all and the compressor was not on so i jumped the pressure switch on the dryer and it came on, pulled the jumper and plugged it back in and compressor came back on and started cooling. I might have a bad pressure switch also about the pressures could the orfice tube be getting stopped up. this car must have had ac problems before with the previous owner because someone has wired the ac clutch 12v+ wire to the outlet side of the pressure switch and the 12v- side to a ground screw.
View 1 RepliesI recently installed an aftermarket rear spoiler with third light. While searching and testing for a hot brake wire to hook up to, I somehow accidentally shorted out the brake lights. They will not come on when i step on the brake pedal.
I checked the corresponding fuse and it is still intact. The brake light symbol on the dash is "on" so I know the "brake light out" sensor is still working....is there something im missing in getting the brake lights to work again ?
I had a 2008 Prius. I travel to a town which is at 7300 feet sea level. When up in the altitude and when I step on the brakes, I hear a clicking or Ping. When I get back to Phoenix, it goes away. I talked to the local dealer in the mountains and he said he has had several people ask him about this. He asked the Toyota Tech experts and they cannot tell him why this is happening. I now have a 2012 Prius and the same thing happens.
View 1 RepliesI have an 03 Nissan Sentra 1.8 with 200k miles. A year ago I started having an issue with the accelerator. When I drive the car the accelerator stops working. It idles perfectly, but when I step on the gas, I get almost no reaction. It does increase RPM about 200, but that is all. When I first start the car, the accelerator works for the first five to eight seconds, which leads me to think it is some kind of sensor. There is no check engine light.
I've tried replacing the throttle body (which includes the throttle position sensor), mass airflow sensor, and the fuel pump. I had it on to the dealership and they reprogrammed the computer, but the issue persists. Last bit of information I can think of is that the problem used to disappear when the car sat for a few days. So I had been driving it only once or twice a week. Unfortunately, the problem is now constant.
Many people talked about the throttle position sensor, which I replaced, but to no avail.
Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
I took the car to garage and found the belt is good, but I have replaced both the alternator and battery, and also changed the brake pads. Car ran fine for a day. Yesterday while driving, had another issue of the accelerator not working while in the middle of driving. Was going up a small hill, tried to accelerate, but stepping on the accelerator didn't do anything. A few seconds later, I could not press down on the pedal anymore (as if the car was off). Brakes worked, I could turn, and no warning lights. Turned off ignition, restarted the car, and everything was fine. Same problem with the accelerator as I first reported, but no problem with charging or turning the wheel, and no warning lights since the alternator and battery are new.
About 9/10 times when I step on my brake pedal (speed has not made a difference) I can hear and feel a hard knock under my car by my resting left foot. Started a few weeks ago. Haven't had work done to my brakes since May 2015 so I am thinking it is unrelated. What the issue might be?
View 2 RepliesI can get it started and let it idle for an hour....idles smoothe. As soon as I try to move the car or step on the throttle...it stalls.
View 2 RepliesModel 2007 Toyota Camry 4cyl
Milage 121K
Service preformed by me @ 119K:
- changed sparkplugs (toyota part)
- changed drivebelt (toyota part)
- changed new battery (Costco battery)
- changed engine air filter(toyota part)
- Oil change every 5K
- Trans flush (toyota part: Type WS fluid: 16 Qts)
- Transflush also preformed at 60K
Problem: So beginning of this week I was driving on the HWY and as most of us like to overtake while driving, so I stepped on the gas pedal hard. The vehicle downshifted to lower gear and RPM got up to 5 to 6K for 3 seconds then suddenly vehicle slowed down. When this happened it was like hitting a brick wall. I don't know if the engine braked so hard or transmission did. I never had this happen to me.
No transmission noise or engine noise. Car at the moment runs fine. The problem is that now every time I step on the gas from steady cruise, RPM will rise up to 4K or so and I do feel that vehicle down shifts but RPM will drop down to 2K and slow climb as vehicle picks up speed. So during this time I can floor the gas pedal but very very little response of the engine. Its like something is holding the vehicle back.
So I went to autostore to see if I have any pending codes as no check engine light or abs...
One pending code came up: C1241 (Low Battery Positive Voltage)
Just purchased my 2007 Passat 3.6 FWD and we just love it but having hesitation problem? This only happens from a stop, when you step on the accelerator it seems to have a delay of a second or two before the engine response.
View 12 RepliesSo I'm driving my 2002 dodge neon, just over 80k miles on it and I step on the brake and it kinda shudders noisily. It just started recently, and there wasn't any major shifts in temperature at the time. Today, i step on the brake and it shudders to a complete stop. everythings still running but it won't go. I turn it off and on again and its shuddery but I get to where i was wanting to go. I head back to my hotel and it worked perfectly, well there was a slight shudder on the way out of the parking lot but I pushed the brake down quick and a little harder than usual and it worked fine. My dad (not a mechanic but is rather good at fixing car problems) has no idea whats up. he checked the brakes and all the fluids. he even replaced the brake fluid.
View 3 RepliesWhen I step on the brakes during traffic & released it to roll the wheels, I hear the brakes squeaking a few rounds & then it will disappear. It sounds like the brake is still engage with the rotor & doesn't fully release until a few roll. This happens more during warmer days.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Honda Odessey with 114K miles. When I step on the accelerator I hear a whistling sound. The sound sounds louder as the RPMs go up. However I don't hear the sound when I take my foot off the gas or when the RPMs are 1,000 or less. What the sound is and what I should do? I had my transmission replaced last year and my wife thinks its related to the transmission.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 Toyota Camry (4-cylinder). When I step on the accelerator, it hesitates for a moment before accelerating. Once it finally does kick in, it isn't jerky but fairly smooth, just takes a while before it will go. Other times, when I accelerate, and the car is actually moving, I feel as though the RPMs are higher than they should be considering the (slow) speed that I'm going. These problems have increased quite a bit over the past few weeks.
Prior to this, my check engine light came on. An autozone employee checked the code related to the light and said I have a faulty EGR. He didn't seem to know whether or not this would be at all related to my acceleration problem. Someone else suggested that an EGR's importance is more environmental than functional. While I'm all for "being green"...can only afford one problem at a time, and the acceleration problem comes first.
If the two are connected, and if not, what my acceleration problem might be? How critical is a properly working EGR anyhow? The actual code according to autozone was EGR P0401...
My 2001 Corolla gurgles when I step on the brakes. It seems to be getting louder and louder. This has been going on for 4 months or so..... I'm afraid somethings going to blow.....This happens when the car has been running for a while. I went to the garage, turned the car off and waited for 10 minutes to talk to the mechanic.Of course when I turned it on there was no noise when I stepped on the brake pedal...the mechanic wants me to bring it in this week. What this could be?
View 7 Replies"step on gas, truck feel like it is pulling a house, slight buck, but with more gas it moves, it has good presure out the exhast, all wheels are turning freely, engine idles great has lots of power,"
tested, cyl pressure, fine
check engine timing, fine
made sure all wheels spin freely, fine
check all fluids, fine
slight pinging sound can be heard, from time to time from center of truck. I'm thinking torque convertor. Feels like engine is binding only when you put it in gear.
I'm looking to sell my dad's '97 Buick Century Limited, but it has a problem with the steering. The short of the problem is that when you step on the gas the car steers to the left but only when you get on it. The more you get on it the more it goes left.So a little more detail here. So if the steering wheel is aligned correctly, it sits at 9 and 3 o'clock, but it isn't, it sits at 8 and 2. It goes pretty much straight at that position; it would take a couple blocks at least to go from the left side of a lane to the right. It doesn't pull hard or anything, you can easily steer it with one finger.
So the problem comes when you get on the gas, either stopped to cross a road or going 55 to pass on a highway. When you get on it the car starts to vere off to the left if you don't let the steering wheel automatically correct itself back to a 9 and 3 position. So it still goes straight unless you don't let the wheel move. The more you get on it, the more the steering wheel goes back to 9 and 3 position. So if you don't floor it, it won't go all the way back to 9 and 3. As soon as you take your foot off the gas it will automatically correct itself back to the 8 and 2 position. However when you are just cruising the wheel is at 8 and 2, doesn't matter if your going 15, 30, 50 or 75 mph.