I have a 1998 ford mustang v6 automatic with 79k. I've owned it for 8 years and it has always shifted odd into overdrive. If I take my foot off the gas it will go into overdrive but not the smoothest. Should I start with a fluid flush? It shifts great through all other gears.
View 1 RepliesI think I've joined the ranks of the no overdrive in our Monte club. Bought the car last summer, 184K on the odometer. Previous owner was original owner. Said trans was always strong. Took the car for a spin Saturday. Previously, no OD issues. It's cold out. Pulled up to a light to get out onto main road. Right turn on red. accelerated normally, but noticed a long hold in 1st before shifting into second. Never saw it before, so was paying attention at the next light, which was right away. Accelerated again, and again a long hesitation going from 1st to second.
Next light is right away again. Light turns green, car shifts normally and I drive it about 10 miles. No issues. I paid particular attention to it going into overdrive, and it did. Arrive a junk yard. Got the part I wanted. Spent about an hour in there. Came back out and started home. Car shifted ok, but did not want to go into overdrive. Thought to myself, well, maybe it's cold. Drove some more. Nope. Never wants to go to overdrive anymore. It does shift from 1-2-3-4 ok. I've heard about the stripped spline in the output shaft, but I was wondering if there is another controller somewhere inside, or outside of the trans that could be causing this issue. When I am in OD and in 4 gear and driving at about 50 MPH and I shift it to D, I feel it shift into 3rd. I plan on getting it diagnosed, but was wondering what you all are thinking.
I have an 06 Lincoln MK LT with 147K miles. Just recently when it went into overdrive it was like I shifted into neutral. Pushed the overdrive off button and it drove just fine although no 3rd gear (overdrive). what do I need to do here other than paying for new tranny.
View 2 RepliesSimple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
My Mustang GT pings when accelerating up a grade of at least 3 degrees, beyond 40MPH. The pinging is reduced when I burn premium fuel, but it nevertheless still pings. I cannot drive beyond 50MPH over mountainous roads due to loud pinging which I am afraid will damage the engine. I have replaced the O2 sensors which were generating codes. No mechanic whom I have approached can tell me definitively how to eliminate the pinging. Otherwise, the engine, with its 144,00 milers runs perfectly.
View 5 RepliesGot a call from my little sister about two weeks ago that her Ford Explorer would not drive forward. Checked it out and put it into second to get it home.Last weekend me and my dad changed the filter and fluid and then drove it for a bit. It sounded a little better but still would go into drive or reverse. We shifted into second which we knew worked and then back into reverse immediately and now reverse worked, although sluggish. The same was true for drive. A few days later dad changed a solenoid and now it will go into drive and go up to 15mph, but will not shift from first to overdrive first. And still no reverse right away. She is able to get to school with second gear and pop into drive when she gets up to 40-45mph. If she has to backup from start, first she has to put it into second and then back to reverse. Something in overdrive doesn't seem to be doing its job right.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 with auto lock 4x4 and a automatic transmission. The problem I am having is after setting for about a week I drove it and 1st to second shift normally but when the RMP's/MPH hits time ti shift to third I get RMP increase and no third. I have shifted it manually 1 then 2 and into drive same result RMP's increase just like it is in neutral.
Miles on trans is about 120K have been serviced about 10K ago with no poor color or smell. Mechanic said transmission and filter looked good no metal or junk in oil. I drive down the road and it shifts from first into second then about 35-40 it hits what should be third but nothing free RPM's. I let it slow down to below 35-30 second kicks back in and away we go again until it's ready to shift into third.
I have been told possible speed sensor problem, possible other sensor problems looking for leads on where to look and what items to check. Just had Shop Mechanic drive it and he was baffled for everything looks good that he checked such as oil, and how it drove until it tries to shift into third. No over drive light flashing or anything and no engine codes showing at all everything clean in memory.
I have a 1998 C class RV that the downshift from overdrive is sloppy and slow when the button is pressed to release the OD or to put it back into overdrive mode. It seems to pause and then kick in or out of OD. Is this a common problem with E4OD transmission? What will fix it, fluid change? Solenoid replacement?
View 5 RepliesI recently changed the blower motor and blower motor resistor in my 98 Ford Mustang. Why my blower is still not putting out an air flow?
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 f150 4.6 v8. when i start driving and i hit about 40 my truck doesn't want to shift, i have to take my foot off the gas, let it shift then apply the gas again. if i don't it shifts real hard or the RPM's go real high. and then every so often my overdrive off light blinks. it shifts in and out of overdrive ok though.
View 2 RepliesLike the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
View 2 RepliesMy 1988 Volvo 240 DL a/t 200000 miles does not shift into overdrive (4th gear ). Is there a relay between the switch and the solenoid?. Is it okay to drive over 40mph.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4, powered by the 4.0L SOHC V6 engine, with a 5R55E transmission. It now has this issue of stalling and dying when shifted from park to reverse. This can be prevented by applying the gas immediately after shifting, however, my wife cannot do this. (she is very temperamental, and doesn't remember that this issue occurs decently often now, so if it happens once, she bites my head off because I haven't fixed this issue yet) I do not see this as the valve body issue, because the tranny shifts fine, and I have engine braking ability, still. What causes this, and what I can do to fix it?
View 6 RepliesI have put a lot of money into this vehicle already. It was used as a company vehicle and drove the country (when it was running and only a few months). From East to West coast. My problem now is, right after the top end of the engine was rebuilt, it was driven to North Dakota. While only being there a few days, it was stopped at a stop light and when the light turned green to go, it wouldn't budge. Pressed the gas, shifted, and nothing happened. It was pushed off the road locked up so it can be taken care of later that day. When the time came to pick it up, it was towed to the hotel. Tried backing it into a parking spot and wouldn't budge. Ended up disconnecting the drive line to push it back. It was towed back to Idaho at the end of the job and parked. Hasn't been touched since. I'm not sure if it is the transmission or not.
View 1 RepliesAbout 9 months ago heard a strange noise when shifted into 4 wd , sounded like driving over those grooves on the side of the highway to keep people awake.
Had to pull over to stop , as it would not go back into 2wd with the noise still going.
Then it stopped , after shutting truck off and restarting.
Then earlier this year after trying to do it again in 4wd had bad clunking noise and was hard to get back in 2wd , I can here the shift motor engaging and the dash reads in 4wd, seems its not engaging fully in 4wd and not going back to 2wd, its a very bad clunking noise, shakes the whole truck.
I have a 96 2.3L 5 speed Ranger. The clutch has been getting softer and softer until about two weeks ago when I couldn't drive it anymore because gears would grind like crazy when I shifted, especially 1st and 2nd. I had no time and just drove my other truck but now I've had a bit of time to look into it. I went to bleed the clutch and then realized there was no fluid in there. So I tried to put fluid in but nothing happened. The clutch is still extremely soft. The truck won't even start when I have it in gear, it turns over and kind of lurches forward, even with the clutch pushed all the way in. It starts right up in neutral. So my guess is I have to do what I really don't want to... replace the clutch!!
Is it possible that since I just put more fluid in the clutch it may take awhile for that fluid to get into the cylinder and I have to bleed it again?
I have a 78 f100 2wd, 300 inline 6 and I've put 2 c6 transmissions in it. The transmission shakes real bad in reverse. When you put it in drive and try to take off it wants to quit pulling but when you put it in first gear and shift up to 2nd it works perfect. My plan was to just junk the C6 and switch to a manual trans but I don't know what trans I would swap it with.
View 8 RepliesI have a problem with my transmission slipping. It seems to happen most often when I have shifted from park into drive and am going uphill. I don't really notice a problem with it when I am on flats or even at red lights. It can drift backwards for 10-15 feet before "catching."
I don't feel any problem when I am going faster or in higher gears. 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC 6 Cyl 4.0...
I have a '58 F-100 4x4 with the Spicer model 24 divorced transfercase. The front end is out of a '64/'65 F-100.
It looks to me like the front axle has shifted forward and is tilted down. The shock mount are not even close to lining up in a manner that would allow shocks to be attached. It also looks to me like someone removed a leaf from both sides.
I already know the steering box needs to be rebuilt. What else is wrong....and how do I fix it?
I am not the sharpest tool in the box. I was driving my 1979 f250 with a full load of fire wood going about 45mph when I shifted it from drive to reverse (I thought I was in 1st) the truck mad a loud whining sound then refused to go on. Now when I shift it in gear it feels like it wants to move and if I revved up high it will rock back and forth. A friend jacked up the rear end with the wheels off the ground the tiers spun in all gears including park and I was told they could stop the wheels by hand with the car in drive. He then took the cover off the rear end and found it to be low on fluid but no signs of damage. What I broke?
View 9 RepliesOk so I'm having a problem that seems to have been getting worse. 1999 7.3, auto, 4 door, long bed, 6" lift. When I got the truck a while back I had a slight problem where if I was accelerating hard I would hear a clunk when it shifted into 3rd gear. I'm not hard on the truck that often so it took me a while to realize that the noise was the driveshaft hitting the floorboard right at the joint at the transfer case output.
The carrier bearing was flopping around a bit so I replaced that first. No better... kept driving the truck since it was only a problem while being really hard on it. But it's gotten worse so now when I tow (usually not more than 7-8k lbs) I have a bad vibration on takeoff at low speed. If I try to take off from a stop very hard with any load the driveshaft jumps into the floorboard. So I just replaced the transmission mount and checked the motor mounts, no better. Only thing I can figure at this point is axle wrap...?