Montana :: Connector Hanging Off On Front End Around Radiator Area?
Jan 10, 2014
I just noticed a connector hanging off at the front of the van, around the radiator area. It's a blue connector with a yellow, green/black wire (see attached pics). Everything on the van seems to work fine, no alarms or dash message indicating there's a problem. I looked everywhere for a place to connect it, but couldn't find anywhere.
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I got a 1998 Trans Sport Montana that has a dead speedometer. The computer knows how fast the car is going because I've seen the live data. I've also changed out the cluster and the problem is still there. I have a schematic of the wire that goes from the ecm to the instrument cluster, but it goes through an accessory connector block. Where this connector block is?
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I've noticed a spring of coolant shooting out of a connector that I'm assuming is connected to the bottom radiator hose via a smaller hose. Is there a hose that splits off the bottom radiator hose that is smaller. The leak is not coming from the hose, but the connector it's hooked to. Is this a replaceable part? What is it for?
97' Aerostar... 3.0 V6 with AC
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Pontiac van? Ours is a 1999. I had the trans rebuilt last year. The trans shop dropped the sub frame to get the trans out.
Had a front end alignment done last year too as I had the trans shop install a new rack (old one was leaking) while the sub frame was lowered.
Had to take the van in for an alignment and afterwards the steering wheel would not center. Plus, on right turns you could hear something shift a small amount and when the van straightened out, the wheel was in a different position as if the sub frame was shifting on the four bolts that attach it to the chassis. But the bolts and the isolators are tight.
The steering rack is bolted in tight, I've checked it. The front and rear bushings on the control arms are good as are the shock mounts. But the steering wheel will re-center to a new 'center' each time something shifts left or right.
I thought it was perhaps the front brakes making the noise and causing drag on the rotors causing a pull left or right, but after doing the brakes (new rotors and pads; old rotors were warped) it changed the sound a bit, but the sound and feeling that something is shifting is still there on right turns. Outer tie rods are new and tight, lower control arms are new and the shocks were replaced with quick struts around the same time as the control arms.
Is there any way to check for this sound and possible shifting, and what if any remedy is available to correct it?
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There is a strange rubbing sort of noise coming from the front end. I hear it when I take my foot off the accelerator and/or when I turn the steering wheel to the left. To me it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side of the front end, but I could be wrong. The most recent work done to the vehicle was the brakes, about a month or two ago.
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My 2005 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, automatic, FWD. with 180K miles had a cracked radiator. The leak is in the front of the radiator about 6 inches right of the filler neck (as you stand looking at the front of the car).
I've found an OEM replacement radiator and looking to replace this weekend.
I can see I need to remove most of the front grill and support, drain the radiator, move some parts out of the way and disconnect to hoses and fan electrical leads. Is there anything else I'm missing? Is there a good write-up on a radiator change that I'm missing?
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I have a oil leak that has developed on front of engine (towards radiator). How hard is it to replace the gaskets necessary to stop the leak. I have done valve covers on a older dodge.
This engine looks like it is going to be more than one simple gasket. What research i have done also recommends i replace the injector o rings as well. Is there a kit that contains all i will need? How long would you expect it to take? IE a weekend enough time?
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I took the plastic cover in front of the radiator off to clean the radiator and condenser. It directs air through the condenser before it gets to the radiator and I was wondering if it would cool the engine without it (if you don't need real cold ac air) . Without it the air can go over the top of the condenser and it is still blocked by the flap that stops airflow above the radiator. Also, I am wondering if the fact that the condenser has nothing in it affects the radiator cooling, and is it bad for the AC system to be empty. (My AC doesn't work)
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How many of you put a screen in front of all your radiators to keep bugs and stuff from clogging them up? Is there much of an air flow restriction (from the screen)? It is about the first thing I always do when I get a new vehicle.
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So while I was driving I thought I heard a rattling. I checked under my front bumper and there is this piece dangling kind of on the driver's side in front of the radiator. What is this piece? It is initially connected towards the front bumper.
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I'm not sure if my car is an R32 but it is a mkIV GTI V6. There is a small radiator in front of the front passenger wheel and air is ducted from the front air scoops into the radiator. What is it cooling? I searched for a transmission radiator but nothing came up. I can only speculate that it is to cool engine oil or transmission oil. Is that correct and if so what is it called?
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I was teaching my kid how to drive in a parking lot and noticed white smoke coming from the front when parked. There seems to be a leak on the top side of the radiator, where the plastic top connects to the aluminum body. I also noticed that radiator fan does not come up at all. Outside temp was around 40F but I would think it should have come on when driving at 5-15 mph in a parking lot for 1+ hours. Temp gauge is on the left side of the middle indicator so technically the engine is not overheated, unless the temp probe is bad. What's the best way to troubleshoot this? I have a 2005 Santa Fe 3.5L GLS FWD.
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My rig is a 2013 5.0 extended cab. Seems to me that there is some "wasted space" at the front end between the bumper/grille and the radiator. I'm thinking that some sheet metal/expanded metal work or maybe some fiberglass formed to fit that the space could make a neat storage area for stuff like jumper cables, an emergency road side kit and other stuff.
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I am fixing the front of my 2000 Ranger? I need to replace everything from the radiator support fwd. I need to know how to get the radiator support out.
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I start the car, with AC on, radiator fan starts and within a few minutes the engine radiator fan stops working, idles rough since the AC compressor pump keeps cycling on and off and engine starts to overheat. After shutting down I check the engine cooling fan fuse and it sure enough is blown.
How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?
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92 Toyota Pickup (22RE auto). New block, rebuilt head, new water pump at 300k about a year ago. Sounds strange I know but that's what seems to have happened. Ive never been able to get heat from the truck since Ive owned it so Ive been trying to fix that. I flushed the coolant out and replaced the tstat. I brought the car to a mechanic and he put a pressure tester on the cooling system and he said it wasn't holding any pressure. He also pulled off the heater core inlet hose with the truck running and no coolant was coming out. He thought there was a blockage somewhere but how to fix it. I figured I might as well try replacing the old radiator cap with a new one so I did. Once I did this, the first time the truck went out, it overheated and the radiator crimped upper seam (on the plastic) burst outward.So all in all...something is wrong.
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I just replaced my stock shocks with Bilstein HDs. I am using the stock springs.When going around a continuous right bend , like an exit off ramp, there is a knocking sound coming from the driver side front wheel area. The sound is present only when not accelerating (foot off the gas) the knocking sound stopped once the accelerator is pressed.
I replaced the rubber upper mount and bushing when I installed the shocks, and I have checked that everything is tight. Is the problem the cv joint? I did not have this problem before I changed the shocks. I searched this subject, but no one has described exactly what I have observed.
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2000 Passat Wagon, 4-motion, 116,000 miles. I have a clunk/rattle in the front right wheel, and the clunk manifests itself when I roll over a bump. I don't get the same noise from the left side.
For example, turning right into a parking lot and rolling over the curb creates a clunk that I do not hear from the left side. Rolling over a manhole cover - clunk.
I've had it in for several other non-related service visits, and have asked the tech's to diagnose. Most recently, I got sold a new steering rack to resolve the issue, but it did not.
Again - I just replaced the steering rack. The techs have eliminated ball-joints and control arms as the source.
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My truck just passed the 3 year/36k by 2 days! I got it on 8/4/10 but it only has 27,000 miles of course I just found a puddle of coolant under the right front drivers side. After a little reading, I guess this is common. Should I push for Ford to fix it or get an extended warranty and turn it in on that or... Aftermarket yet that isn't half plastic like this stock POS?
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It's from rain, but only getting to the front passenger floor area. And this just started in the last month. Decades ago I had a VW Rabbit that would get serious water, in all 4 quadrants, in rain or a car wash. But I figured that one out, the "gutter" in front of the windshield was jammed up with dead leaves, once those were cleared, no more water coming in.
So, when this Avalon leak appeared, that was the first area I checked. There was a bit of leaves and twigs, which I cleared away, but the worst of it was on the drivers's side and as I mentioned, no problem there.
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I have a noise coming from what seems like the front windshield area. It sounds like when you have a balloon full of air and open a small hole and let it out. That loud squealing noise that it makes is basically exactly the same as the noise I am experiencing.
It happens when I'm going 70mph in high winds or over 80mph without high winds. And when it happens it's constant.
I talked to the dealership and they told me it's fine... mostly because it happens randomly and it's hard to replicate unless you go 90 it always happens but they obviously aren't going to test drive my car going 90mph to find the noise.
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