Montana :: Bosch 125 Amp Alternator - Lights Dim At Idle But Brighten On Acceleration
Oct 24, 2015
I just installed a new Bosch 125 Amp alternator about a week ago.
Puts out 13.9 to 14.0 at the battery with everything running at idle. When you rev the engine the head lights brighten for a moment then settle down to what might be considered normal. Battery holds at 12.6 volts over night and cranks no problem.
Only reason I replaced the alternator is because it is original and has traveled 280,000 kms already. Bearings were getting a little rough, although it seemed to be charging almost the same as the new one. (13.6 versus 14.0 for the new one).
Battery is 8 years old and has a 108 month 'life' to it, so should be replaced before winter sets in.
Could there be a problem with that screw on the back of the alternator referenced in a few posts, or is it possible that the battery is trying to say, 'I'm getting tired!'
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Battery symbol light appeared on dash, After determining battery was good, I removed alternator and took it to have it bench tested at the parts store. It tested bad so I purchased a rebuilt alternator and had it bench tested before I left the store and it tested good. I installed it and it won't charge the battery. Tried a new battery...same thing. I tested the voltage at the battery and it reads 12.3 and the same with engine running. Engine runs until battery is drained. I removed the alternator and took it to a different store and they bench tested it good also!
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I have a 2000 F-150 5.4. The lights will dim very momentarily and brighten right back up when driving under 2000 rpm. It is barely noticeable except on the small back roads at night. It is actual the most noticeable on the dome light. I replaced a failing alternator probably a month or so ago and I don't remember it before I replaced the alternator. What could be involved with the new part to cause the flicker. Could it be bad ground connection or what? I don't have any voltage readouts or anything. I can get those tomorrow.
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My PRND123 isn't working on my 03 Montana. I replaced the neutral safety switch still no go. The reverse lights come on. When shifted out of park the doors lock and when put back in park they unlock. I checked some fuse the are for the nss and there good. Any wiring diagram for it?
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When the vehicle is accelerated the light goes off. When I stop it comes back on, so it seems that the alternator is not charging when the vehicle idles. Could this be a bad belt or maybe the alternator. Charged the battery all night it has 12.40 volts, and is only 1 yr old. At idle the reading on the battery slowly starts dropping, then goes up when under acceleration.
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Just installed a new alternator today, and the motor (4 cyl.) idles rough when the AC is on. The battery was disconnected during the installation, but nothing else was touched. Is this caused by the new alternator itself, or because the battery was disconnected for a while? Should I set the idle speed a little higher or what?
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I just bought a 2013 prius 4 with the solar roof package this past weekend. I researched this car for a long time and love it so far!
I can't figure out how to make the screen brighten and dim when it's day/night. And my "default/home" screen is the navigation screen. I've managed to get it to split with my audio screen but I'd love my main screen to JUST be my audio screen and only view the navigation screen when I'm utilizing the navigation.
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I have not been able to find this in the manual. Is there a way to increase the brightness of the clock and climate temperature display between the stereo and the nav? I know how to dim the dash display, etc. but my clock is so dim it is very hard to read.
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I was out late last night driving the car on a local freeway, and my friend wanted a better look around the interior of the car. So, I turned on the two front interior dome lights, the round ones next to the sunroof controls? Anyway, we both noticed right away that they were pulsing in intensity. It was very slow, may from high to low once a second or so...just like in a sci-fi show when you have a living machine?
Anyway, is that a sign of the alternator going? I've never seen this behvior in the car before. It went away at idle. The car was travelling 100km/hr in 6th gear. Headlights were on low beam, as were dash lights. No other electrics on. Just not sure if it is normal or if I should be concerned.
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2007 Grand Caravan 3.8L 100K mi. New noise chirp-chirp-chirp Sometimes an intermittent rumble at idle seems to be in synch with the serpentine belt especially when the A/C is engaged. I changed the serpentine belt which did not look bad and did not emit the noise. Noise seems strongest at the alternator when I use a stethescope. I noticed the pulley seems a little loose with the belt removed, but the bolt is tight. This alternator has an overrunning alternator decoupler (OAD) pulley so maybe the loosness is normal. The bearings seem smooth when I spin it with the belt off, and it charges fine. Just the noise is bothersome. Do I need to change out the alternator or just the OAD pulley?
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I just replaced my battery and alternator this evening on my 2004 F-150 5.4L. After driving it around a bit, the idle is dropping to about 100 RPM almost to a point of stalling when coming to stop. It slowly creeps back up to a normal idle shortly after.
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Alternator warning lite comes on at idle rpm. Speed up rpm lite goes out. The gauge shows alternator is charging. Autozone checked it for me it is putting out 11 to 11.5amps running. Should be putting out around 13 amps, right? alternator bad?
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Pulling out from the garage, the instrument panel is dim. The outside lights are auto on, the panel volume is on high. It takes about 20 minutes, it will click and then brightens up, this happens most days, but not always. What's that about?
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I have a 2006 Sonata, last night I was driving and when using my high beam headlights they would stay bright and then dim then brighten up again. The battery has not been replaced since I have had this car, but I didn't know if it could be the battery, alternator or maybe the headlights? They work fine on regular beam, no dimming on this setting.
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My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
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Display is real light. How do you brighten it up. Basic toyota radio.
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Have a 2011 Camry base 6 spd manual. Came out from work and won't start. Electrical cutting on and off. Turn key and only only light comes on with clicking. Get a jump and it starts but all electrical comes on and off for five minutes until engine dies. Now won't start with jump and just makes clicking noise at alternator with lots of lights on and off on the dash. Seems like a major short somewhere.
New battery seems a waste at 2 years old and probably not the problem.
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So my truck drove great to ocean city MD this weekend. Power is perfect again, feels really tight. But now I have having to additional problems.
1) My alt light had been flickering a couples times a month. Last night it came on and stayed on. Lots of threads about this I Know!
I am hoping that cleaning and tightening the connections will do the trick since the alt is a Bosch with only 25k miles or so. But I want to order a rebuild kit:
is my alt a 3G or a 3G8429?
F SERIES | Alternator Starter Rebuild Kits
2) I started to have a ticking at idle. Its very regular and sounds like its coming from the passenger side valve cover. In random threads I have read about timing chain guides breaking and loose rocker arms.
Most of the time its 3 ticks in a row and then a pause. Should I be pulling the valve cover? Think I need to R&R the timing chain? I will post a video later!
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I put a re manufactured alternator in my 2000 f150 with the 5.4 liter. Now all the lights flicker, go dim and then come back on bright again. I noticed when the lights dim, the heater fan speed also drops. The light flickering is constant and bad enough, that I can notice it in daylight also with the headlights on. It is really noticeable at night with the truck in drive (or any gear for that matter) sitting at a stop sign or sitting still in my driveway. I changed out the old alternator because it was making a loud chattering noise. I didn't have any trouble with the lights or fan with the old alternator. Why doesn't the battery volt gauge in my instrument cluster fluctuate all the time while it is doing this? It reads in the normal range all the time and doesn't move. The flickering lights are also noticeable at highway speeds, its just not as bad.
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Driving home my radio quit working. I looked at the gauges and they all dropped to the left. The it looked like my lights quit working and then the truck just quit. All of this happened within 5 miles and 10 minutes. I jumped it and quit before I could even get going, it did start momentarily. Could not even get the gear shift into neutral; had to jump it to get that to happen.
It is 2006 F150 4x4, 5.4L engine and about 95,000 miles.
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I got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
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