I have 5 different codes being displayed..
P0107 (map sensor)
P0405 (EGR valve),
P0452 (fuel tank pressure sensor low voltage)
P0453 (fuel tank pressure sensor high voltage)
P0641 (5 volt reference voltage)
My gas gauge is malfunctioning. I just had my transmission replaced about 3 weeks ago and a week later, the gas gauge began to just fly all over the place. Full to empty, 1/2 tank to empty, etc.
My 2011 Accent's engine light came on recently. The mechanic said it was a cylinder 3 misfire and recommend changing the spark plug and coil pack for that cylinder. We did that over the weekend. Now the light is back on and has read 5 codes in the past 12 hours (4 at one time). They are P0303, P0304, P0003, P0403, and P0100. I have looked the codes up and can't discern if any could be caused by one main issue. About a month ago it read a code for the oxy sensor, but it went away and never came back.
View 3 RepliesI recently got a problem with my 2006 LX V6 with 65k mils on it. The car had a few times a rough Idle so I hooked up my OBDII scammer ant got two failure codes:
P0300 miss fire
P0276 problem with Injector #6
Which one is the cylinder #6. I took of the engine cover and checked the connectors to the valves in the front row. I assume cylinder number 6 is in the back row and hard to get access.
I have a 2010 model Hyundai Accent showing error codes P0301, P0302. It has a 1.6L engine. I know little about cars, what is going on and how to fix it.
View 7 RepliesI got the transmission p lock mechanism error. following the advice of the multiple threads, I removed and replaced the old battery after testing it. I drove about 40 miles and the triangle came back with the vsc and yellow exclamation highlighted too. The cruise control quit working but I was able to get it to the dealership and get a reading. There were two codes: p3102-581 and c2301 -40 and 50. the dealer wants to keep it all day to "dig into it". This is on a 2006 prius.
View 19 RepliesFor the last 60 miles, my fuel gauge is showing major usage,for every 6 miles it is using 1/10 of gauge.
When I go to fill gas it takes only less than 1/3 gallon of gas then it clicks full.
So I have driven 24 miles and it is showing 4/10 gauge used up.
No smell of gas
Yesterday I got the "red triangle" and check engine light along with these 3 codes:
P0A80 - replace hybrid battery pack
P3019 - battery block 9 becomes weak
P3000 - battery control system
In April of this year I have the entire battery replaced, in September I got the triangle again and one cell was replaced under warranty. My warranty is good through April 2016, however I'm afraid that this new code P3000 is going to be something not included in my warranty.
What could potentially be wrong? This is a 2006 Prius with approximately 208,000 miles. I'm not sure this is worth it anymore especially if I have to keep putting in more money.
I'm rebuilding the traction battery on my 2006 Gen II Prius. When completed, I'd like to erase any "error codes" that should be erased (I don't even know where these might be), and turn off the red triangle of death, the VSC light, the (!) idiot light, the engine check light and the maintenance required light.
View 6 RepliesHave a 2006 ford escape, at idle the engine will run around 1000 rpm's and then regularly dip down 500 rpm's. Through the intake i can here a distinct "thwap" when the RPM's dip.
Only codes are
P0113 and P2196
Problems accelerating sometimes, Took it too a shop they said bad exhaust valve on the backside of the engine either 1-2-3. They said needed engine work, but said they didn't know where the bad valve was so i don't even know how the made the determination. Vac gauge at idle also indicates bad valve.
However, when i give it even the smallest amount of gas possible the engine smooths out and vac gauge reads totally normal and steady.
I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana with about 107500 kms on it (VIN: 1GMDX03E24D183870) and the coolant temperature gauge is not working properly. Sometimes when I start my van, the temp gauge is pinned at MAX temp and stays there the whole trip...other times it's pinned at MIN temp...and other times it seems to work OK.
When it's pinned at MAX temp, I check the actual temp that the on-board computer is seeing, by using my OBDII scan tool...and I get about 87 degrees C when I'm halfway into my trip (i.e. - when the van is at operating temp), which seems OK. All the other analog gauges are working perfectly.
I read a lot about the issues with "connector C305" on the Internet on the Montana vans...could this be the problem?
I have a 2000 Pontiac Montana 3.4L V6. I keep getting code p0341 cam shaft sensor (replace), and code p0443 P0443....EVAP Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit. I was getting p0441...Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow (but I replace Canister Purge Valve that up top center right). I have also replace spark plugs and wires because it didn't seam to have any power.
(After I replace both the cam shaft sensor and purge valve) Now it does have good power but if I am moving at very low speed either stopping or starting it will almost die sometimes and sometimes it does die. If it actually dies it seams to give both the P0341 & p0443 codes but if it doesn't die and code light comes on after resetting it, it is just the p0443 code.
I bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
Well I noticed the drivers door actuator wasn't working. I went to the Lexus dealer and service rep told me 700 bucks to fix. A month later i went to fix my cat converter under warranty. After i got the car back, surprisingly the keyless door works again. Well a week later it stops working again
View 5 RepliesEverytime I hit a bump inthe raod the passenger rear sounds like I have no suspension. I have had it into a shop and they were not sure what it is. It acts like the shock is bad but I only have 36000 miles on the rig
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 Pontiac Montana, The little engine picture came up on my dash. I took it to the car parts store to have the code read and it came up as an O2 pre-heater sensor. My husband has been trying to google how to fix it and can't come up with anything. It doesn't even come up as to where the part is located.
View 3 RepliesI have been having sporadic issues with the button/system of my drivers side window. It is an '06 XLT SCrew. The window always reponds when I am lowering, but there are times when I hit the button and it won't come up. I wiggle the armrest, or fiddle with the button and it will eventually work. I haven't been to a dealer yet, but I know this will totally fail at the most inconvenient moment. The other three windows work great.
View 2 RepliesThe passenger air bag indicator light got pushed in so I need to get the vent panel off so I can push the light back flush. I do know the surrounding of the radio pops off without any tools. But taking that off doesn't get me anywhere. I still don't see access to remove the vents.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Pontiac Montana SV6 with 80,000 miles on it. Recently the dashboard warning "check gas cap" has started coming on. I have replaced the gas cap and cleared the code and it is doing it again. It seems like it is more likely to do it when the gas tank is 1/2 or less full but it also did it today with almost a full tank. The code from the computer said P0455, what this could be?
View 7 RepliesI have an 06 Montana sv6 that clunks when I start to move forward or reverse. Not when I put it in gear but as I start to move. It also does it when I take off from a stop sign. It doesn't make any noise while driving or turning though.
View 1 Replies2006 Montana 3.9.
Went into 'limp mode' (dash says, reduced engine power)
Mechanic friend scanned it: It indicated Cam Sensor. He bought a Cam Sensor but the next scan indicated Throttle Position Sensor. TPS is not available separate from the throttle body.
It seems like it might be a dirty fuel filter to me but it looks like the only fuel filter is on the pump in the fuel tank. Is that the case? Auto parts people say no other filter. Is there something we can do besides the full blown job of pulling the tank, and removing the fuel pump; some kind of additive or treatment to clean the fuel filter?
Why is it still the norm to have the pump etc. in the tank where you can't access it?
Alright, my '06 SV6 AWD has a major problem...I'm about to blow it up! But seriously, I've had an issue for a few weeks now with intermittent acceleration/hesitation problems. Basically it started as a rare occurrence and is happening more often now. Yesterday, it did it consistently for 20 minutes on one trip around town. 1 hour later, it didn't happen noticeably at all on the way home. It happens while accelerating, usually from a stop, but also sometimes when cruising at highway speeds.
The car does not stall or stumble. Everything sounds fine and smooth, but when accelerating from a stop, the car will stop accelerating and the speed slowly drops off. Pushing the accelerator down further to the floor does nothing for several seconds, then the power returns and the car responds to whatever position the pedal is in. If you haven't pushed further it continues accelerating where you left off. If you've got it to the floor, it takes off quickly. When cruising at speed, you don't notice anything until you start slowing down, and the pedal reacts the same way. NOTE: The engine does not rev up when this is happening. It's not like the tranny is slipping.
It really seems like a fuel delivery problem and not transmission. It has all the normal symptoms of a failing pump. And about 2 months ago, I had the fuse for the fuel pump melt (not blow). These problems didn't happen immediately after, but they did happen a few weeks after that.
That said, I have noticed that when cruising I occasionally hear a light clunking noise that sounds like the rear diff engaging. I assume this is just due to play in the drive train. I also had to recently do the expensive versatrack fluid flush and fill to get rid of the diff groan. But I still feel like it's probably fuel related because the engine doesn't rev up.
Here's what I've done so far:
1. Checked the wires at the problematic C305 connector. I already had to completely redo that connector several years ago as the PO had removed the connector and directly twisted all wires together covered the with tape, and filled hole with silicon. BTW, GM does sell all of those harnesses with length of wire, connectors, and heat shrink covers for reasonable $$. Anyway, found 2 wires with insulation slightly shaved off. Neither was for the fuel pump, everything else still looked good.
2. Checked voltage at the gray fuel pump wire just after the new harness (about a foot before the fuel pump). And checked the ground at the same location. Haven't checked at pump connector because I don't want to drop tank just yet. Both were fine with almost no resistance on power between that location back to the fuse box. So, it doesn't look like a bad or shorted wire unless it is in that short length up to the fuel pump that I cannot access w/o dropping the tank.
3. Checked fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The pressure when primed and idling is a consistent 60-62 psi. I know the manual states 60psi as the max. Maybe this has something to do with it?? Perhaps my cheap actron pressure guage is a bit off or perhaps the pressure regulator is bad. Could this cause the issue.
4. Checked for DTC's with code reader. No active or pending codes.
The other things I think could be the cause based on internet research:
1. Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor
2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
3. PCM
4. O2 sensor
The problem is that all of those things tend to set a DTC from what I've read. I still think the fuel pump us going bad and the pressure was fine because the problem is intermittent. I just don't want to spend the $$ on a new pump to find out it was something else.
Tomorrow, I will have access to a scanner that can log 10 seconds of data from the computers while driving. I think that might shed some light if I can get the problem to happen when recording. I'm not familiar with fuel trims and the lot.